simonplatt

i think that you could be right there paul, i think that the battery is not at its best although it has not let me down, and it is always 3 beeps. fuel guage = 1/2 tank yes ABS. ( typo incurred by the mental strain of changing to capitals. :rolleyes: ) brake fluid is not low. i will get out the multi meter. thanks.

got to agree with you, don't anyone attempt this unless your confident that you can do it, unless of course you have no other choice. as once you have it stripped down in your back yard you're pretty much on your own, except for the advice of the forum of course. but always way up the situation first. even if you did it right, you tend to spend a while wondering whether you did or not.

c3 desire 1.4 2004. a while ago i had the handbrake warning light along with the associated buzzer sound briefly. i looked at the switch and glued a cap onto it to make sure that it went off, but the problem persisted. then i started to get the warning buzzer with the ALB light, so figured the sensers needed cleaning, did that twice (as i rushed it the first time) but to no avail. then i had the warning buzzer on its own, low fuel, but the fuel wasn't low. now i get one or other light, with buzzer or ,buzzer on it's own, or both at the same time, now the buzzer is common to all three, but has anyone had a similar problem or any idea how to cure? i have tried disconnecting the battery and reset process, and there are no faults showing on the meter.

well its been a while now and its still going. so time to report in case anyone else has the same probs, and questions. and it may be of help. fitting of the belt was straight forward by following the instructions, but when it came to setting the tensioner it just wouldn't go to the max tension reference mark. i could push it there with my fingers but that made the belt slack. there were several reasons i could think of why this was so, but i ruled out them all. i tried the old belt (done 99000) the last new one, and the present new one, all were the same. i tried the old tensioner, with no difference. and i note here that the new tensioner spring was/is significally stronger. so i read and re read the instructions for all models, with and without auto tensioner, then did this..., turn the tensioner anti clockwise until max tension is achieved, ignoring the pointer which was half way between the 2 settings. locked this down and went through 10 revolutions, (dont know why as the only reason that i can see for this is to settle the belt, and so seems excessive, but whatever, followed the advice) checked as instructed and all was well. backed off (clockwise) to 'normal' setting. did some more revolutions. then to check i put a steel rule along the belt from the crankshaft pulley to the camshaft pulley, and checked the amount that the belt could be deflected which was approx 6mm. looked looked and looked again, couple of cups of cofee later i decided that i could do no more, so built it up, crossed my fingers and turned the key. started straight away, sounds as sweet as a nut and is running fine. hopefully it will carry on doing so.

thanks for that, did you use the tensioner locking pin in the process? i didn't and am wondering if that is the problem. i couldn't see the need for it first time around as rotating with the hex wrench brought the pointer to the required positions, but this time it doesn't. going to have another go tommorrow (hopefully) i am now questioning my previous diagnosis . QUOTE//. the apparent cause of this was a small piece of casting (broken off from mount) which had dropped onto the crankshaft sprocket and got between that and the belt.UNQUOTE//. and fear that if it was just incorrect tension, then it could happen again.

still not sorted. i have been down with flu, and just starting to feel better. i have replaced the inlet valves and ground in the exhausts as well. and now back to the cam belt. i note that the new tensioner has a much stronger spring than the old. but i cannot get the pointer to the max tension position. it goes about half way then slacks off again, however at this all the slack appears to be taken out of the belt. i can't understand why there is a need for the pin to hold the tension, i have not seen this used in any vids, and tightening the nut holds it anyway. going from the haynes manual, i can get a 90* twist and approx 6mm on the long run (although this is a guess, using a ruler as a straight edge, as it seems impossible for me to measure.) any advice appreciated.

hi. sorry for delay. car is 2004 c3 desire 1.4 8v petrol. i now have the head off, and 3 inlet valves are bent. the apparent cause of this was a small piece of casting (broken off from mount) which had dropped onto the crankshaft sprocket and got between that and the belt. there appeared now to be less tension on the belt, although the tensioner hadn't moved, and when i slacked it off to go through the tensioning procedure (as a test) it would not get to the number 1 postion, so i figure that the belt may have stretched. but in any event i could, even when fitting it new continue to go in an anti clockwise direction after passing the point of maximum resistance. so i think maybe to renew the belt again. but should belt stop. at position 1 ie. being unable to go farther, or just stop at the mark?

i have recently fitted new cambelt and water pump, on completion all was fine for 50 miles or so, then it lost compression. the belt has jumped and the timing is out, and there is less tension on the belt although the tensioner has not slipped. i have not got to the valves yet and fear the worst. i was a little confused (and still am) about the tensioner proceedure, but was convinced i had it right when i did it. my take on it was (is) to turn tensioner clockwise To first position, tight, then rotate crankshaft twice, then go back clockwise, (loosen) to second position, and job done. advice appreciated.

o/s dipped light is not working, the bulb is ok.

i have just bought some led bulbs to replace the o/e ones, the fittings are the same but the led (glass) end will not go through the bulb holder. has anyone done this conversion? had to replace or modify bulb holder?

and if so, to what effect? i wouldn.t think so as the charger is connected directly to the battery, so is not asssocited with any of the vehicles wiring,

thanks, i would never have guessed.

i have found what looks like an adjustable vent in the lower glove box, anyone know what its for?

i want to fit a constant live socket, eg. a cigar lighter socket would be fine. so that i can plug in a solar charger and leave on the dashboard. where can i pick up a live feed from, or where can i pass a wire through so that i can attach directly to the battery?

i have just checked them and they are fitted as you stated there are no arrows or other marks to indicate direction.