John.A.S.

Hi, I think they number from the gearbox end but not sure will check the Haynes manual when I can find it. I was told be the RAC I needed a new injector as in my original post, so did the dealership. But the injector specialist said they work or they don't. full stop. I did change the injector but it did not cure the fault. I had they injector I removed test and they said the injector was testing as new. (82000 miles) The injector people said it will be the connector at the injector they are always causing problems. I got home all running OK lifted the bonnet and moved the connector wiring about where the wires enter they connector immediately the engine started to misfire and the dash said depollution fault and 0202 appeared once again. I cut the wires at the connector and put some small spade end connectors on the two wires (make sure you get them the right way round)and connected the wires to the injector terminals the problem was gone. I bought a new connector £6 and fitted it. You might have to make up some short tails as there is not much slack on the wires. I ended up changing all four connector. John.

Hi, No Idea, I was told by Citroen dealer that 97W should never be fitted and the garage that fitted my new tyres said the suspension does not like the harder walled tyres. I ran my C5 with 97W on all four wheels but I did notice when the tyres were changed to 93W that the ride was softer and the steering lighter. A friend of mine has just changed the fronts from 97W to 93W and has found the same, the car rides the bumps easier and it rolls a bit more.

Hi all, C5 2.0ltr HDI hatchback, 2006. As I needed two new tyres for the car and I have 215/55/16 97W on all 4 wheels but a 93W on the spare, the handbook just said contact your local dealership re tyre size so I did. I was told was the correct size for the car was 215/55/16 93W , so I asked is it OK to fit 97W? He said as long as the tyre is not reinforced, There was a not on the screen saying reinforced tyres should NEVER be fitted to this vehicle. I now have two new tyres on the front with a load rating of 93 none reinforced and the ride is much softer, you don't feel all the little bumps and white lines as you drive along. Also on full lock it does not feel as if you are about to push the tyres off the rims. Before anyone tells me, I am aware that new tyres should always be fitted to the rear axle on a front wheel drive car. I will be have two more new tyres fitted at the end of the month. It was definitely worth the check.

Hi, Thanks for responding. John.

Hi All. RE: VF7RCRHRH76734809. Does anyone know if the RHR engine uses a swirl chamber. Thanks John.

Hi All. Unlocked the car this morning and the rear hatch unlocked and opened. So removed the inner hatch lining (you will need new clips) and took a look at the lock mechanism and the operating lever. It was simply a matter of cleaning the road dirt around the black plate you press to open the hatch. It only moves about 5ml and has only a soft spring to hold it open. I could push the mechanism closed and it stayed closed which meant when you unlock the doors the boot opened. Cleaned it up, put it back and things are back to normal. Try some WD40 or silicone spray around the black touch plate before going to the trouble of removing the inner liner. John.

Yes tried the primer, it clears the bubbles but as soon as the engine starts the bubbles start again.

Hi all, C5 HDI 2.0ltr VTR (2006) ( VF7RCRHRH76734809 ) Checking over the car for a fault that's taking some finding I noticed a few small air bulbs in the clear plastic fuel line between the fuel filter and the high pressure pump while the engine was running. increasing the revs produces a multitude of large and small bubbles initially then reduces to a trickle of small bubbles. The filter has done less than 3k so should be OK but I did notice a yellow o'ring in the supply line connection I have 10mm x 2mm and 10mm x 2.5mm o'rings, but this one measures 10mm x 2.25mm. The o'ring is not shown on Citroen box so don't know if its a part you can order on its own. I do not have a lift pump in the tank so the fuel is drawn from the tank by the high pressure pump. The car always starts first time. If the fuel was draining back to the tank overnight due to air ingress it would be slow to start in the morning so I am guessing the air is being drawn in buy the pump when it is running and the bubbles occur instantly when the revs are raised so possibly something to do with the filter housing. Anyone had this problem. John.

Hi Paul, Thanks for that, I must have missed it in the manual. Will start individual change out and test of injectors to check they are all working correctly. Had endless problems with engine hesitation which was cured by changing the EGR valve but I still had a very slight intermittent power loss around 70mph but not a constant fault and no fault codes showing. Then I had a engine misfire cylinder 2. changed the injector to find cylinder 3 was misfiring 10 minutes later. Tracked the problem down to the injector connectors, ended up changing all the connectors, (merlin diesel said they sell loads of the Siemens / Bosch connectors they cause all sorts of problems including intermittent power fluctuations). Car running fast and smooth but with slight hesitation on occasions, but now tends to be around the 2500 to 3000 revs on acceleration and it might just be my imagination but it tends to be worse when they fuel tank is below quarter fuel, so need to also look at the fuel filter. (no lift pump in the tank on mine). Which end do you count the cylinders from? the RAC engineer and my local garage say from the cam belt. But Merlin diesel said they thought it was from the gearbox end. John.

Hi all, Anyone know what the torque setting is for the two nuts that hold the injector in place on a C5. Hdi 2.0ltr. VTR. ( Vin VF7RCRHRH76734809) Thanks John.

Hi all, On returning from St Ives to Preston car broke down on M5 at Bristol. RAC diagnosed "injection circuit malfunction cylinder 2. code P0202" They gave us a car to get us home and my car will be delivered on Monday. The engine was miss firing. The RAC chap also connected a node to the end of the connector wiring that feeds the injector, It flashed once brightly and then about three time more dimly, then nothing. He said sometimes that happens because the ECU shuts down the circuit. The same thing happened to me about 12 months ago, same cylinder same code, I tided up the wiring at the rear of the cylinder head and the problem was gone until last Friday that is. Anyone know using a meter what values I should get across the injector and across the wiring feeding the connector. I believe the wiring goes back to the PCM how do I identify it (were is it) and what are the pin connections etc. I am hoping its a wiring problem, any help with tracing it would be appreciated. Thanks John.

Hi Tim, Yes finally got it sorted. I went to Merlin Diesel (Walton summit near Preston). They explained that the retaining clip once fitted is locked in position hard against the injector. To release the pipe:- under the shoulder of the injector, part of the retaining clip protrudes, this part you push down to release the pipe. They said people are always trying to force the clip out to remove the pipe. They gave me a new clip. The faulty clip was on the injector nearest the cambelt and you can't get the clip out as its to near the plastic housing that forms part of the rocker box (but you would not recognise it as such) and to remove that you have to remove the inlet manifold, pipes, wiring looms etc and then you need a replacement gasket set at around £40. So I took it to my local garage, they extracted the injector and fitted the clip as it should be and charged me £35.. Thanks for your interest. John.

Hi, Final chapter, Since replacing the EGR valve all has been well with the car. Last week I had the ECU programmed to learn a new part the EGR valve (yes you do need to do it) The car is even better now, It was a little touchy on the accelerator at crawling speeds, since the programming its very smooth at low speeds, it takes off at around 2500 revs really moves at around 3000revs and revs freely up to the limiter at 5000 revs. The car does use the eloys system and the Citroen garage say usually around 75-8000 miles will need filling up and recommends the particulate filter is changed at 125000 miles. The only downside: my right foot starts to ache after a while as I only seem to be using a couple of inches movement on the accelerator and I can't find a comfortable position!!!

Hi, I have a C5 HDI 2ltr 2006. VTR 138bhp Today I had smoke from under the bonnet and a smell of Diesel. On checking one of the small plastic connectors that link the bleed off pipes to the injectors had popped out. I checked the other three injectors and the "u" shaped locking mechanisms (looks like a square headed staple) were fully pushed in against the injectors, so using a piece of wire (the only thing I had) I managed to pull out the locking mechanism, I pushed in the plastic connector and then the locking mechanism but I could not get the plastic connector to stay in. Green flag arrived and had the same problem, then said he had fixed it, for some reason he said the locking mechanism works the other way round, push in the locking mechanism, insert the connector and then pull the lock out. When I got home I checked and it seem to be right. When you pull the lock out a raised section appears which locates in the plastic connector. The Haynes manual says you push down on a wire under the injector to release the connector but that is almost impossible to get at. I am still not convinced, why have three locking mechanisms working fully pushed in and one work the opposite way. I anyone has the same model can they have a quick check which way round they are. Better still if anyone knows without having to check. Thanks John.

Hi Paul. The rattle on the front end. I spent 12 months, checking bushes link arms etc, even had the bumper off, checked behind the wheel arch liners, everything. When it went for MOT I thought they would find something, but the car got a clean bill of health. It only rattled going over cobbles and rough road surfaces, nothing when going over speed bumps. I had bought on Ebay from a dealership a pair of front disc (genuine) for £30 but had not got round to fitting them. I bought genuine Citroen pads from Rigbye's and while fitting the new pads noticed they had a thickish rubber film on the back of them and the old ones did not. When I took it out for a run silence the rattle had gone, I rang the parts gent at Rigbye's and he said it quite a common problem on the C5 and Citroen put the rubber film on the pads to prevent the rattle. It would seem the anti-rattle bits fitted on the calliper don't work as well as they should. John.

Hi, qman, I am guessing you mean Rigbye and Sons. I live in Preston less than a mile from Looker's but always go to Eccleston for my bits and advice, If you moan at the price of the parts you end up getting them a lot cheaper. I get my oil and filters from them cheaper than at the motor factors or Ebay. Car is running great at the moment, I have even cured the annoying rattle on the front end after 12 months of trying to find it. I just need the ECU programming to "learn new part" ECU. There is an auto electrician just up the road from me and he cancelled my last faults at no charge. So will get him to connect his lexia up and programme the ecu I think. Thanks John.

Hi Moderator. Found something interesting when looking on Citroen box under air and fuel system. I clicked on the diagnostics and my problem is listed under straight to the fault. (For some reason I can't copy and paste the information for all to see). But it does say models manufactured between Oct 2005 and Jan 2006 had problems with the EGR valve sticking and causing all the problems I have been having. As my car was registered first registered in Sept 2006 their is a good chance mine is one of them.. Will see what the fix is when I go to the garage on Monday. John.

Hi, Yes you are right. When I had problems with the "depollution system faulty" being displayed they never mentioned the eloys system and when I queried it they said Citroen used two systems (a)eloys or (b) ECU increasing the fuel delivered along with advancing the timing creating very hot gases in the exhaust. They told me mine was (b). I Have been on to them and now they say they are almost sure mine is in fact eloys. I have not had any display saying eloys fluid low, but did read somewhere that some models of the C5 do not tell you when the fluid is low the ECU just generates a 'depollution system fault' in the display. They told me to ring Monday when the boss is back in the chair, but have said they will check for the eloys system, fill the system, check it is working and reset the ECU counter for £190. But the boss may give me some discount as they did not mention the possibility that the fluid could have run out and I buy all my bits from them. I know its around £100 for the fluid and approx. £35 to reset the ECU counter. They did say recommended top up was 75 to 80,000 and I am now on 75,000. Will be interesting to see if it has run out. But if the fluid has not run out I could have a problem elsewhere.

Hi, Sorry yes it is 138 bhp, I do have access to Citroen box online and no signs of the eloys system on the diagrams. Dealer confirmed mine is not eloys system and I double checked when I fitted a Citroen towbar. No container at the rear end for eloys. My vin VF7RCRHRH6734809. They also do a 138bhp without a FAP. When I bought mine I was under the impression all 138bhp did not have a FAP but it turns out some models were fitted with them.

Hi, Mine is the 136bhp with particle filter But does not use the eloys oil system to clean the filter. Mine regenerates by advancing the timing and increasing the fuel, this creates very hot gases in the exhaust system which in turn burn all the deposits off the filter. A mechanic at the Citroen dealership did say you can add a small amount of eloys manually when you fill up and it will help to keep the filter clean but he could not say how much per litre. I have found out that there is a specific additive designed to be added to the the fuel which will allow the deposits in the filter to burn off at a lower temperature. But for the time being I will see how long the car keeps running so well.

Hi, No eoyls on mine just a particulate filter. Which the book says if display says depollution fault drive normally at a steady speed until the display clears. The Citroen agent told me if the filter starts to block the ECU will adjust the timing and fuel so the engine runs hot and the hot exhaust gases will burn the residue off the filter. Still not sure which is right. I was told that at around 65k you should have a new one fitted. My local garage says they take them off and power wash them, dry them out and they are fine. So will wait to see if the DPF has regenerated if not will try the power wash. Thanks for your interest.

Hi All, I changed the air and fuel filter no change. So had a diagnostic check and was told EGR valve. So searched EGR valve causes and cures etc on Google and found an interesting article which said EGR valve can cause hesitation on setting off and whilst cruising. The valve should be closed under positive acceleration. A good pointer to the EGR valve being the culprit is if the car drives normally for the first 10 minutes or so and then starts to play up. The reason for this is that the EGR valve only operates when the engine reaches "normal operating temperature". I got a new valve from Ebay - £98 Delphi it was exactly the same as the old one I took off. Car ran great for around 25 miles, then just as I got on the motorway it started to lose power I held it at 3000 revs and prayed but it was a definite loss of power not the same as previously. Then the depollution symbol came on the dash followed by the service light and the dreaded depollution system faulty appeared in the display. Then the car burst into life again and was fine. Service light went off. As I had the depollution symbol on the dash and disconnecting the battery overnight did not clear it I hunted round for a garage that might be able to help (Saturday after Christmas day). Found a tatty place and the old gentleman said he would reset the system, so I asked him to clear all the fault codes etc, which he did and did not want any payment for it, but I did give him something. He asked what had happened, I told him the story and he said it was probably the ECU regenerating the depollution filter. I mentioned that the turbo was softer when the engine was hot then cold and he said make sure I check and clean the air intake changeover flaps as the hot air one tend to get a build up of muck and often prevents it from fully opening. I have done about 250 miles and not a flicker turbo is smooth and revs up to 4000 with ease if I don't watch it. It drives like it has never driven in the past but the turbo is definitely more positive when cold running so will check the air intake flaps when I get the chance. Hope this feedback helps someone.

Sorry missed the last question, it's done 74000 miles.

Hi, At the moment it sleeps on the drive as the garage is full of kitchen units. I am doing a kitchen refit and Christmas is looming. Car been on drive all day, went to B&Q this evening, thermostat working as it should, hot air blowing at a mile, temp gauge starts to rise at 2 miles, gauge just coming up to normal as I arrived at B&Q. On the way back temp gauge reached normal on approach to roundabout, and the engine hesitated at take off from roundabout. My wife says it does not do it when she drives, so I thought I will drive as she does, lots of revs at take of and very much foot down and ease off, Driving hard it seldom happens, but I am far more casual and gentle on the accelerator. Fuel consumption average running round 40mpg, touring at 55-65 mph 60mpg. Motorway at 70 - 55mpg. The thermostat on mine is a sealed unit about 12 inch long and cost around the £65. We do not have a good Citroen or diesel garage in Preston. But I do have a garage nearby who claim to be a Peugeot specialist and he charges £25 to read the cars brain. So will start with that. Will also call at a dealership in Eccleston who supply my bits and bobs as cheap as I can get them from the motor factors and get a new fuel and air filter. Then go all round the pipes again. Still can't help feeling that the temp reaching normal caused the ECU to switch something on or off that's causing the problem. On a side note, On many forums I have read about people having an annoying rattle on the front end when on rough road surfaces cobbles etc but not on things like road humps as I did. I checked every thing and never found the cause until last month I put new discs and pads on the car supplied by my friendly dealership. The pads that came out looked just like the Citroen ones I put in except for one thing the Citroen pads have a rubber coating on the back of them, I asked why when I got them, They said it prevents that rattling noise you can get with some none Citroen pads. And he was right nice and quiet when on rough road surfaces.

Hi, I know it seems odd, but the problem only started after the thermostat was changed. I can do short runs with no problem, but after around 5 miles the temp starts to rise and then then as the temp starts to reach normal the problem starts. I wondered if the air intake flaps from the turbo were sticking as now with the cold mornings the turbo - cooler - manifold flap would be closed and start to open as the engine reached normal operating temperature. If its not working as it should it could be causing momentary air restriction, which I think would cause a cut in fuel. I think the flaps are vacuum controlled so it could be a vacuum problem. Perhaps as the pump warms up it is failing in some way. Just grasping at straws to as certain extent.