Ratt

Over the last couple of weeks I've noticed better running, so it would be safe to say that any older Citroen could do with a clean up of the EGR and air intake system. Thanks for the replies that helped me out.

If you didn't know it, you wouldn't believe how the whole egr-air intake system clogs up with this soot would you? Hopefully it'll be a vast improvement now that it's cleaned out....a few days running and i'll post back

I'll look it up on you tube and give it a try Paul. Let you know how it turns out....thanks

It runs as sweet as a nut normally and the coolant level never drops, so this egr valve might be an issue. Is there a cure for this if needs be

I changed the fuel filter recently, soon after i bought the van. On one of these difficult to start times, before i learned to wait a minute or so, i cranked it over and over, and when it did start, it did so on what seemed to be 1 or 2 cylinders only, loads of white smoke. Anyway, i shut it off cause i was in a builders yard and embarrassed as hell, then a couple of minutes later it started like normal????

Thanks John. I presume the old clip is shaped in some way, so that replacing it entirely with a jubilee is not a good job. It's the DW8 and generally bullet proof, strangely the only issue that surfaces occasionally is a stubbornness to start when hot. Leave it for a couple of minutes and away it goes, I've also had it cut out on a run once, could this problem be connected?

Hiya all....I'm wanting to do a glow plug job on my 2002 c15 van....can someone tell me how to open the steel clip on the egr pipe safely. I've tried putting a screwdriver behind it and popping it forward, but it really doesn't seem like it wants to go. Also engine hot or not to remove the glow plugs?

I'm having trouble finding a local breaker with a cheap screen replacement for my c15 champ. A friend suggested that I find out if it's the same in any other of the groups vehicles. Can anyone advise me of this possibility?

A little tip for anyone one who is trying a cambelt job on this motor with the engine in, is, ok, fit the belt anticlockwise from the crank to idler to injector pump to cam (with these having the slotted holes loose). Now this is where I discovered my trick was the only way out. From the cam it really was better (because of the tightness of the belt), to fit the belt FIRST around the water pump, and having the bolt of the manual adjuster ((on the 2002 model it is manual) almost all the way out, it was only doing it this way that the belt was long enough using the wobblyness of the adjuster on it's very loose bolt, to slip it around the back of the adjuster. Tension belt, tighten the adjuster and slotted hole bolts, remove timing lock pins, turn over the crank e.t.c. And say a million yippees, then go for four pints of Abbot Ale and look back on a difficult job well done.

Getting the belt over all the pulleys is difficult, but then getting tension on the thing and being able to lock it in position at the same time, well skin of the teeth stuff.

The mad trial is over...I checked over the timing positions and fitted a new water pump just to be sure. Bolted on the replacement Bosch vacuum pump, and away she went, with a wonderful quiet ticking sound. All the noise from before was the broken lug on the drive dog of the pump, which of course transfered along the cam and made the injector pump sound lousy. This last week has been a learning curve supreme, which has taught me that maybe replacement belt is probably a job for non-proffesssionals to attempt only with the engine out. It can be done, but christ, it is always so close to failure that there's a total sense of relief when it's done.

Jesus I was freaked for a while, thought I was going to be in sh...street. but hopefully tomorrow a used BOSCH replacement will arrive from autocraft for £33 all in with postage. I am assured that the oil seals are still good and cross my fingers it's true. Are there any photo's available of the camshaft and injector pump in the locked position on the 2002 dw8 engine. I have read that the cam locks in a 7 o clockish position, but where exactly does the pump lock. Also on my one only the cam sprocket looks to have slotted holes to turn clockwise, the pump sprocket doesn't look to be slotted at all

Been trolling through ebay etc....all available seem a little different, mine is from the magnetti marrelli company. the pump is good, only the drive dog is broken

Ok...I'll try on e-bay...do you know if these vacuum pumps are all the same for dw8 motors

So more news from me. The vacuum pump is very simply removed, and out fell the broken 'dog' that drives off the cam end. The pump is from magnett marrelli. I've phoned around all the local breakers today but have so far had no luck. Does anyone know where I can contact for this item, prefferably a used one. And surely this is what has been causing the noise problems I've been having.

Looking back on the situation with the vacuum pump, it may be that there has been a small problem with it for some time before the belt change, as the brakes have been spongy for a while. Also the face of the servo unit has been 'greasy'. I'll drop the vacuum pump out to check on it, and go over the timing positions again.

Do you think this sequence of positioning of the belt has any bearing on the problem I have with the vacuum pump. it seems odd to me that the motor starts and runs really well, but this rattling noise is there......Then the vacuum pump starts leaking and the brakes pack up. Is it possible to get a vacuum pump from a breakers and have any success with the seal back onto the cam end

We did turn the motor over a couple of times, and the belt pulled up squarely around all points. Also all the timing positions seemed good, but strangely enough I've just got back from a shortish journey where the brakes packed up---no servo pressure, and on a bit of a look drips of oil from the vacuum pump (I think it is) bolted on cam end, which spray back onto the servo unit. And it also seems to me that the rattling noise is coming from the injector pump/camshaft area

This one must be the earlier type that is held by 4 small bolts. Do you think it's possible that the pump timing is out and the motor could still start and run very well. We did have a bitch of a problem getting the belt onto the cam and pump.

Hi to everyone...I would appreciate some feedback on the concerns I have about the slight knocking sound that comes from my old c15 van (dw8) after just putting a new timing belt on it. The van starts and runs very well (cold or hot), but both me and the mechanic can't work out why this knock is there. The van's only done 78,000 miles and was not like this before the belt change.