lrochfort

Thanks very much, I'll try. That thread talks about the C5. Does the same procedure apply for the Xsaras?

Hello all, I have a Xsara Picasso that has some central locking gremlins. I understand they're common, but haven't found a situation quite like mine online. You can lock all the doors just fine via either door lock, or via the button on the dash. However, the doors don't unlock via central locking. The door the key is put in will unlock, but nothing else happens. The button on the dash doesn't unlock the doors either. The buttons on my keyfob have fallen off, so I can't try those! Any advice much appreciated. Cheers, Laurence.

An update: 1) The accelerator pedal now longer feels like a clutch! Previously it was very heavy and graunchy, likewise the car was very sluggish to respond particularly in 1st and 2nd; pulling away was quite dangerous if crossing traffic. It was also a good 1.5 to 2 inches below the brake pedal. The fix was very simple, just running some 3-in-1 oil down the accelerator pedal cable and then adjusting the height so it was closer to the brake pedal height. The process was as follows: 1) Disconnect the battery 2) Take the lid off the ECU housing which is top-right as you look at the engine when standing in front of the car. You might have to unclip the plastic cover over the top-right suspension sphere. 3) The ECU itself is the large square unit at the bottom left of the enclosure. Remove it undoing two torques screws. 4) Remove the fuse box at bottom-right of the enclosure by releasing two plastic clips at the front and back. 5) Undo the heavy duty mains supply lead at bottom centre by undoing the nut on top of it. 6) There is also a lightweight wire that connects via a plug to the top of the fuse unit. Unclip this. 7) The ECU and fusebox can then be placed above the ECU housing out of the way. 8) Underneath the ECU is the glow plug source. Undo the torques screw holding it down and remove it. 9) The ECU housing is held down by two or three bolts. Remove them and it should lift out. 10) The throttle cable can be seen attaching to a rotary potentiometer under the ECU housing. 11) Remove the clip holding in place. 12) Remove the cable from the bulkhead clips and hang from the bonnet. 13) Run 3-in-1 oil down it and leave for 5 minutes. 14) Reattach the cable to the pot. Move the whole cable in or out to adjust the pedal height. 15) Secure in place with the clip. 16) Reverse the ECU removal process and reattach the battery. Important Note: After everything was back in place, my engine turned over but would not start. I noticed a yellow "key in door" symbol on the dash. If this happens to you, get out of the car and then lock and unlock it with the keyfob. This should re-register the key and allow you to start the engine. When first starting the car, the ECU will have been reset and will have to re-learn the engine characteristics. Let it idle for a couple of minutes and then try to drive it briskly up through all the gears. 4) This was fixed as suggested by coastline. 5) Removing the boot suspension switch and testing the functions by shorting the contacts showed the suspension responded. Additionally, a continuity test with a multimeter showed the switch was duff. A replacement should fix this.

Thank you for offer, coastline, it's very generous of you, but I'm afraid I'm down in sunny Reading, so it's a tad far! I have the most basic version of the display, which is just a narrow strip LCD. Am I right in taking what you say to mean that my display will only show radio or date/time and not any fuel consumption data? It also happens that my car has a (terrible) 3rd party radio, so is it possible that the stalk switch doesn't do anything for that reason? paul.h, there's no trip information at all. All I can get my display to do is switch between date/time and outside temperature. I haven't had a chance to remove the suspension switch yet, but will try to do so at the weekend. paul, I take your point about the accelerator pedal, but I've driven a few diesels and I think it could possibly still need adjustment. I've also noticed that there a fair bit of vibration at idle that goes away when the engine is under any load or when applying revs. What rpm should the 2.0 HDi idle at? If it is idling a little low could that be the cause of the vibration and could it be related to accelerator pedal/pot adjustment if any is needed?

Thank you all for your replies. I've taken a look at the car and found the following: 1) The accelerator pedal is a good inch or more below the brake pedal, with a lot of upwards play. Hopefully I can adjust the cable at the pot as coastline suggests and this will help with pulling away etc. 2) The car doesn't lack for power once in 3rd and rolling, so hopefully point 1 will fix this. 3) I'm going to let the car get used to me and see how things improve. If not, I'll search on here for the ecu reset procedure. 4) I have the el cheapo car unfortunately!! I guess this means the switch does nothing for me? 5) I tried as paul.h suggested and nothing happens. I'll try a continuity test on the switch to see if it's duff and if so order a new one. Any pointers for parts? I'll report back with my findings once I've had time with the car.

Hello all, I'm newly the owner of a 2003 C5 Estate 2.0 HDi (110bhp) manual, with 140k on the clock. I'm happy with the car because it has had a new cambelt, waterpump, clutch and flywheel at 100k and recently new intercooler pipe, discs and pads and new tyres all round. I do have some questions though: 1) The accelerator pedal seems quite heavy and resistant. Getting the car rolling requires a fair bit of pressure on the right foot, not high revs, just a good prod. 2) Likewise 1st and 2nd seem like rolling gears, the car only really starts moving in 3rd. I don't know that I'd like to try a fast right turn in a gap in traffic for instance. 3) What should the ride be like? It's smooth, but I feel things like joints in the road. It seems firmer and more sensitive to bumps and dents in the road than a BX from (old) memory. 4) What does the button on the end of the wiper stick do? 5) The suspension height buttons in the boot don't work. Is this likely an easy fix? Thanks all!

Thanks, Paul. The reason I chose this forum because it was well laid out and seemed active, so I think I'll setup roots here as it were.

Hello all, I'm looking for an 01-04 C5 2.0 HDi (110bhp) Manual Estate. Not really looking to spend more than £1000. Apart from AutoTrader, Exhange and Mart, ebay and Gumtree, can you please recommend good places to look? I'm in Berkshire if that makes a difference. Thanks all, Laurence.

Hello all, Laurence from Berkshire here. I've already had fantastic advice from the forum on my search for a C5, so thought I'd say hello. Specifically, I want an 01-04 C5 2.0 (110bhp) HDi Manual Estate, but would probably consider an Auto. Out of curiosity could people please clear up what all the different forums and clubs are about. I've found: This forum! http://www.citroenownersclub.co.uk/ http://www.citroencarclub.org.uk/ Are there any differences or benefits. Not wanting to cause a religious war you understand! Hopefully I'll have found a car soon and can be a bona fide Citroenado.

Thanks for your answers everybody. I'm looking at a couple of 2.0 diesels so will keep this information in mind.

Thank you everybody for the comprehensive answers. I'll keep my eyes open for 2.0 diesel.

Hello Ladies and Gents, I'm looking at a couple of C5s for sale and I'm choosing between the Mark 1 2.0HDi estate and the facelift 1.6HDi VTR. The 2.0 is at 92,000 with FSH. The 1.6 is at 123,000 with FSH up to 117,000. Now, I had that engine in a Ford Focus and got hit with the DPF fluid topup (which I did myself) and then having to get Ford to clear the management computer codes because my OBDII reader wouldn't do it. I'm also lead to believe there's no DPF on the 2.0HDi in the Mark 1? I would prefer the newer, safer car, but I am concerned about: 1) Whether the 1.6 in the C5 is strong enough to pull the car. 2) If I'm in for hassle and expense with the DPF on the 1.6. Thanks all! Regards, Laurence.

Thanks for the comprehensive answer, Paul. What's the best way for me to find out if the engine is 90 or 110bhp? There are a couple of Exclusives I could look at. How important is the FSH given the comparative complexity of the suspension?

Hello Ladies and Gents, I've decided I'm going to buy my very first Citroen, and it's going to be a Mark 1 C5 diesel estate. Tomorrow I'm going to see a 2002 SX 2.0 HDi estate with 92,000 miles and full Citroen service history. I like the sound of the car because of the FSH, but I'm wondering if I'm missing out on something by not getting the Exclusive 2.2 diesel. My main concern is that I understand the Exclusive has additional suspension spheres to control body roll, but the SX does not. Is that correct, and if so, should I care? Many thanks, Laurence.