Pj10

So for example like you say if I do not open any of the doors for 15 seconds it will lock itself maybe this is normal but then if I open any of the doors within that time it still tries to lock but as a door is open it unlock again instantly then a few seconds later it will do the same again so if I am getting tools out of the back I'm listening to the doors locking unlocking locking unlocking constantly until I shut the door that is open at witch point it locks instantly and stays locked except the drivers door then when I press the fob the drivers door also locks and I get the indicators lighting up to tell me alarm is on I presume the interior button does not work at all all fuses are ok this van was a bt van I'm starting to wonder if this is done intentionally by them the van automaticly locks the back is secure and even if someone breaks in to the cab they can not use the interior button to open rear doors and the steel bulk head makes it impossible to enter rear through the cab I supose its a good thing really I can never make the mistake of leaving my tools in a open van but it's annoying to be honest

All correct other than the drivers door does work it does lock and unlock with the remote but when the van is locking itself the drivers door is the only one that is not effected so if I leave my keys in van luckily the drivers door stays open I presume that is why I have to press lock first so that the drivers door locks along with the rest and then press open and they all open I also have side loading door the button on dash does not work at all totally non responsive

It locks all doors other than drivers door on its own short let after being unlocked then I have to lock it then unlock it again to get into the back of the van also sometimes it when i approach the van it will not unlock unless I press lock button first then hit unlock other times it just decides it will not respond atall

I have not had it long enough to say only got it last week problem was already there it would make sense if they did not power at all but the fact that they power after start up makes me think it's a fault with the central locking having a mind of its own I'm wondering if it could all be ecu related anyway the van starts with no issues and runs well so I will just have to live with the issue and hope it does not start struggling during the colder months if I can not get. To the bottom of it

Hi pal thanks for your replies and all your help I have resolved the issue with the engine management light there was a short on the connector to the mad sensor when I moved it two wires with damaged sheath were touching so anyway moving on I now have no power to glow plugs when ignition is on position 1 or 2 but when I fire engine the glow plugs power up for 3 mins when first started in morning then once warm and van fires up they do not have power at all wich seems ok but still no light and no pre heat before engine is fired it has to start running before power gets to glow plugs very strange any ideas ???? Central locking has a mind of its own also

When I come of accelerator to slow down it goes of until I set of again

The light was on before sensor was changed in confident it is not that it just on off constantly I have done 20 miles still limp mode I have topped water up but not bled the system of air

Changed sensor and relay now it's worste I get Mel light when accelerating won't go over 3000 revs only started after removing sensor dumped about 1 litre coolant

Ok right just removed relay to start with and the 10mm thread with constant 12v to it is no longer fixed it as broke loose inside relay and can be pushed down until it nearly drops inside the relay itself I am just checking the temp sensor now as for the temp it sits steady but below 90 more like 85 if the thermostat is faulty could this be the cause or is it another issue thanks

What I mean is if it was reading high and not letting glow plugs operate would It not also be reading high on my gauge

Ok it's cheaper to just replace the sensor than have someone read codes as I do not have diagnostic equipment the sensor is only £10 plus vat would I not be getting really iratic idle and temp gauge soaring if it was temp sensor I tested glow plugs they are all ok

Only when driving tho it's ok at idle Thanks again for reply

Ok thanks for reply I will start looking into that then so am I right in presuming this would stop the relay clicking into action if the temp sensor is faulty also that every thing seems normal at 5 way connector now I think about it the needle on temp gauge never sits in middle always below and runs jumpy on low revs

Also just to add left van running for ten mins and terminal 5 was still 12v terminal 4 still 0v

Hello I'm Peter I am looking for any help on a electrical issue I have with my citroen berlingo van I will just blurt it all out and hope someone picks up on my post and can help or point me in the right area I should be posting Right berlingo 2.0hdi 2003 model Glow plug light does not illuminate and when cold it takes longer to crank but still starts fairly Easly gives out a puff of smoke after start up runs well but not 100% until warm At the relay 12v supply going in nothing coming out Glow plugs to the the relay (8mm thread) has continuity On 5 pin connector that connects to relay Earth (terminal1) to terminal 3 constant 12v Earth to terminal 4 0 volts weather ignition is of on or van is running always 0 volts Earth to terminal 5 12volts when ignition is on and stays 12volts for 10-15 seconds after ignition is turned of Terminal 2 is unused So my question is this normal at the 5 way connector Will new relay and glow plugs resolve this or is it deeper routed Also central locking is playing up just thought I would mention incase it's related Any help would be great Regards peter