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Thanks Paul

I think I can safely report the problem is resolved. I've fitted the new cat and it's now driving better than ever. I haven't done many miles yet as I've bought an after market cat and it's not a great fit. I'll be sorting that today and hopefully have my van back in service and ready for work on Monday. Thank you all again for your help and advice 👌

I meant to say I'n not receiveing notifications via email. I do get them in message centre.

I think I've selected the right options but I'm not receiving any notifications. I presume I'm missing a trick?

Thanks Paul, me too 😀 Thanks to you and everyone else for your help and suggestions. What a great forum this is. I've ordered a replacement cat so hopefully I'll be able to report the outcome by the end of this week.

Thanks again Paul. I tried to use the van this morning but could only just get to 30mph. I then discovered it would only rev to less than 3k revs even sat on the driveway. Prompted by previous feedback I disconnected the EGR from the manifold so exhaust gases could escape and amazingly it revs perfectly. I removed the exhaust and discovered the cat had loose black matting which has obviously been obstructing the exhaust system. It revs beautifully with no exhaust, although I doubt the neighbours were too pleased 😊 So I think I've solved it. Just need to go and order a new cat (it's too noisy to drive to an exhaust centre) and I will update you when I've tested it.

I managed to remove No.1 injector with a bit of messing about but it's fine anyway. Meanwhile the engine is slowly getting worse again â˜¹ï¸ I give up, time to get a new van.

Latest update: I haven't tried the crank sensor yet (is there a way to test it?). I was convincing myself the fault lay with the emissions control system so this morning I blocked off the EGR. At first there was loads of black smoke which cleared after a few miles, although I still get it at odd times but always under load. The power has increased but it's still not right, I would estimate I'm still only getting around 80/85% of the power it had before the EGR packed in. Couple of questions to my knowledgeable Citroen friends: 1.What is the device attached to the battery tray that connects via vacuum tubes to the EGR? I don't know what it does but if I disconnect the connector I get the standard malfunction light (engine block symbol). 2. How do you remove the injector at the flywheel end (no 1?). There is an electrical connection to it which prevents me using a socket and there is no room for a spanner. What is the purpose of this connector?

Yes the light illuminates at start up so it is working. I don't know if the exhaust is blocked and can't think of a way to check. I suspect it isn't as what would block it so suddenly? It has no problem pushing out the smoke when it's under load 😀 I have noticed today it has improved a little and I can get up to 60mph on the flat but less than 40mph on a climb. I've also discovered the air manifold box is badly gunked up from when the EGR failed but also the four seals are perished and almost non-existent so I've ordered a second hand replacement. I also checked the MAF with a multimeter and it is working, ie the voltage output increases with revs.

Paul H. I've tried two different MAFs, one a cheap copy, the other a branded one (I forget the make but a good one). Unplugging the MAF makes no difference but oddly when it's unplugged I don't get any fault lights either.

Too late 😊 but thank you for the advice. I've now confirmed the valve timing was spot on. The last time I did the valve timing on a Citroen was on a '92 diesel and it took me around an hour. Looking at the Berlingo manual it appeared to be pretty much identical so undaunted I pressed on. Four hours later I was finished! Everything is so much less accessible on a Berlingo 😊 I have tried driving to clear out any gunge and I've covered about 50 miles at a guess. It runs ok on low revs on flat roads, but try to accelerate to keep up with the flow or hit a hill and it's all over - no power and if I try to push it then I get lots of grey smoke and the temperature starts to climb. The signs point to a failed turbo but as it hasn't got one... The garage did run dianostic software which only identified a faulty MAF and EGR (both now replaced) but apparently everything else was normal. Next step is to try the injectors, although I don't think that's the problem as it feels like all four cylinders are flat rather that one limping along.

Latest update - still not good enough. The misfire has gone but the lack of power means I can't get above 30mph on a hill even with a run up. I'm suspecting the timing belt has slipped a notch, which wouldn't be surprising after the severe lurching of the previous misfire. So if the weather is dry tomorrow that's what I'll be looking at. Coastline, I have tried injector cleaner but it had zero impact â˜¹ï¸ I WILL fix this and I will report my findings here as it's intriguing and may even help someone else at some point.

I had a similar issue on my 2006 Relay except with 5th gear. I can't remember the details as it was a couple of years ago but I put it up on ramps and found the linkages had siezed up. I can't remember if I had to strip it or simply work it while applying oil, but I do remember it took a lot of force to get it moving at first.

The new EGR arrived today and I now have a driveable van again. It's not perfect as it's lacking power, especially under load such as climbing a hill. As it was so bad with the faulty RGR I suspect it may have gunked up an injector. I'll try taking it for a longer drive to see if that help clear it.

Hi Coastline. I did that and it ran great, although I didn't take it very far as my temporary blank blew out under exhaust pressure turning it into a fine van that sounded like a tank 😀 I've had difficulty finding a replacement EGR but I have one on its way to me either today or tomorrow.

Hi Paul. I think the problem is the spring has gone as it opens too easily. I don't want to blank it off as it's there to reduce polution. I have ordered a replacement (surprisingly difficult to find the right one) and I'm just waiting for it to be delivered.

The garage supposedly did that and told me it was the AMF - wrong! I've been using the same garage for over 35 years so I kniw they're good mechanics, it's just a confusing fault for dome reason. Anyway, as mentioned above, I have narrowed it down to a faulty EGR and I just need to source a replacement. I think I've located one but at almost £200 it's worth almost as much as the van 😅

I disconnected and temporarily blocked off the pipe from the manifold to the EGR and the van ran great! New EGR ordered and hopefully I'll have a working van again before the week is out 😊

I've had 2 cars where the sump has corroded leading to oil leaks. Be careful how you investigate this as on both occasions I picked at the rust and ended with a far worse oil leak. If you do check then I suggest having an oil pan at the ready. On the plus side, sumps are usually easy to change (not on my wifes Fiat 500 unfortunately for me!)

Well new MAF fitted and it's made not a scrap of difference and the van is about as much use as a chocolate teapot. I suppose I could use it as a chicken coup 😕

The garage have diagnosed a faulty MAF sensor combined with a broken air resonator box letting in too much air and confusing the already faulty MAF. The EGR is also showing the occasional blip but he thinks that's due the air intake/MAF problem. I'm not convinced as I don't see how that would cause two inlet manifolds to oil up, but I've ordered a new MAF. I've temporarily taped up the broken air box resonator while I try and find a replacement. Meanwhile, if anyone is wondering, the taped up inlet box has not improved the situation.

Thanks Paul. Yes I do realise it is a risk but I also think car manufacturers use it as a scare tactic. I have had a belt fail on a Fiat well within mileage and no damage was caused. I also had a car where the belt tensioner failed and wrecked the valves. I know it is lax of me and I have no excuse â˜¹ï¸ Yes to inlet manifolds. I thought maybe blown head gasket or slipped timing belt but it starts first time when cold and ticks over perfectly, but it will only drive a few hundred yards before it starts misfiring. I did think maybe a fuel pump fault but that doesn't explain the black smoke (which only appears when it's misfiring). No oil in the water or vica-versa and it doesn't over heat, so very confusing. Anyway, it's in my local garage today so I will report back when they have diagnosed the fault.

Hi Paul. I haven't tried unplugging the AMF or EGR so that's something I will try. I haven't replaced the fuel filter but it is very clean. Temp gauge shows normal. Timing belt hasn't been changed but I'm confident it hasn't slipped as I've experienced that before and the symptoms don't tally (I don't think so anyway). I did wonder about the timing but when it's misfired in the past it's always sortrd itself out which it wouldn't do if the belt had slipped. Oil level is fine and it hasn't got a turbo. I've got it booked in to my local garage next week but I will do a few more checks beforehand as ideally I need it for work. What I particularly don't understand is why two air intakes would be oily but the other two fine. I have an incling it could be a blown head gasket, but then there is no oil in the water or water in the oil and it doesn't overheat and no steam from the exhaust.

Thank you Randombloke. I think it must either be engine oil or maybe unburnt diesel being forced up the air intake manifold (not sure that's even possible). I don't think it's fuel starvation as the diesel filter is full, but I will check just in case. Thanks for the ideas ðŸ‘