heraldsteve

Forgot to mention there are no fault lights on the dashboard and my cheap diagnostic unit shows no error codes. Things I've tried: . Air filter is clean, fuel filter is clean and no water in the diesel. . EGR looks ok and is in the closed position. It springs shut if I operate it manually. . AMF sensor was changed a while ago but made no difference. . All vacuum pipes look to be in good order. . Wynnes injector cleaner mixed in the fuel when it first started made no difference.

I've had occasional misfiring issues with my 2005 1.9 diesel Berlingo van which would eventually clear but I've never really found the cause. So when it started again recently I wasn't too concerned but over a few days it's got worse and worse until it is now undriveable. When it's not misfiring it runs like a dream and uses no oil. When it misfires it starts with the odd stutter but eventually it gets worse and it's like it's running on three cylinders with loss of power and lots of black smoke. It's now got so bad it's like it's on two or less cylinders. It will start ok but will only drive a few yards before it looses power and becomes undriveable. The only obvious clue I've found is that two of the air intakes, where they connect to the black plastic duct, are very wet with oil. Anyone know what might be causing this?

Thanks Rookie. I haven't heard of that but as I'm always 'tatting around' I'm going to give it a try.

Thanks for the thought and potential pitfall. I am going to use a purpose designed socket. I have quite a lot of experience in cutting metals of all types and thickness (I spent many years in the electrical control panel trade) so I'm not anticipating problems from fitting the socket. I have already considered that I might need to use strenghtening to support the socket for when I'm plugging/unplugging, the only problem I might have is due to being unable to remove the internal lining. I might have to be 'clever' and fix some strengthening from the ouside before fixing the socket, maybe using plywood or aluminium angle strip, possibly using filler to fill any gaps caused by the curvature of the panel. I'll let you know how it went and what I used once I've fitted it.

I haven't plucked up the courage to do it yet - maybe next weekend :unsure:

Thanks Rookie for taking the time to take and post the photograph. That does help as I can see where the uprights and cross memebers are located. I want to keep t fairly low so I reckon if I cut somewhere central to your liners I should be okay.

Thanks for the replies.

I have a 2005 Citroen Relay which has been converted into a campervan. I want to change the existing hookup socket, which is currently under the bonnet, and fit a proper socket on the side of the van just behind the drivers door. The problem I have is the van was originally a mini-bus and is lined throughout with the original Citroen panelling (fabric panels and plastic moulding around the windows etc) so i don't know if there are any strengheners or braces on the side panels. There are two potential solutions - can anyone tell me how the lining is attached to the van and if it can be removed without causing damage, or does anyone have a photograph of the inside of a van to show where the strenghteners are located? Any pointers would be very much appreciated.

You have to ensure the mileage displayed is the full mileage before you start the reset sequence, if it's just displaying the trip mileage then the sequence fails to reset the service light.

Thanks Paul. I realise Relay owners seldow use the forum but thought I would bolster the numbers :)

I've found out the door doesn't latch open because the release cable is frayed preventing it from returning to its resting position. If I disconnect the cable then the door latches open just fine - only I can't then close it again without using a screwdriver! So I've put the frayed cable back until I get around to buying a new cable (none on eBay http://www.peugeotforums.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif )

My 2006 Relay sliding door is operating perfectly but can anyone tell me if it should latch in the open position so that it doesn't close itself when parked on a slope? I know my old '92 Relay latched open so I expected this later model to do the same. Thanks

Apologies for the delay in getting back to you and thanks for the link but the 2008 link is not helping me as my 2006 does not have a drivers pillar fusebox. The problem I want to fix is that the blower is permanantly live instead of being switched through the ignition switch. I have found the fuse that powers the blower and it's in the passenger fusebox, but I can't pin it down to a specific fuse number as the diagram printed on the fuse cover does not seem to relate to the actual fuses.

I don't have a handbook for my 2006 Relay and despite an internet search I haven't managed to find a diagram of which fuses are where. I partcularly need to identify which fuse should supply the heater blower as mine has a permanent feed. Does anyone know which fuse I need to invetsigate, or better still, point me to a lnk showing details of all fuses? Incidentally, if anyone has a spare handbook for my van I would happy to buy it. Thanks

Hi. I just wanted to say hello as I've just bought myself a Citroen Relay campervan and I'm very pleased with it. This is not my first Citroen as I also own a Berlingo van and have previously owned an old (1992) Relay campervan.