djdaz116

i am having the same problem with blowing fuses. i am pretty competent at doing this myself but looking for some guidance first. i have a c5 mk3 estate new shape 2009. did you use the lexia to completely de pressurise the system first? and how did you manage to re pressurise the system after refitting? Daz

ok not a problem, thank you and sorry. i know for next time. Daz

hi people. two weeks ago the 40amp pump fuse on my c5 mk3 2009(new shape) blew. i replaced the fuse, and sent the suspension up and down a few times. i did notice a whisper of smoke come from the motor, but only the once. anyway its blown a fuse again today two weeks on. i have changed the fuse again, and yes its working but i guess not for long now. can anyone advise on where to get a pump from?. can the motor be refurbished with new bushes and bearing? and can the motor be removed from the car in situ away from the pump? if you can give me some advise it would be great. i have lexia and laptop, just need help with replacing or fixing the motor. many thanks Darren

Thanks for the replies both. Coastline yes the fluid is at max or level with the neck of the expansion tank in lowest position. It really seems the suspension rises to its max position of physical travel, but the pump is still Tryng to raise it further. It is fine at every other level. A question...I have lexia software and I see the suspension measurements but can't see how to adjust the parameters. Are you familiar with this software?

hi all when the height is adjusted, on the dash i get confirmation when all the levels are reached, apart from the highest level. when i send it up to the highest level, the pump just keeps running. it seems the suspension as reached its highest point of travel and cannot rise any more, but the switch is not registering that is has reached its position. i know the car has had a height sensor replaced on the front, so i want to adjust it as i think its slightly out. i have not measured the height, but i do sometimes think the front looks slightly high. people tell me it is on the anti roll bar, but i cant see it. can someone give me a little more information as to is location on the car(drivers side or passenger side etc) and how do i get to it. regards Darren

a couple of weeks ago i opened the drivers rear door, and heard water swishing around inside the door. on the bottom of the door there is a sticker covering a hole. i removed the sticker and was shocked how much water drained out. now this week after a storm i opened the passenger rear door and noticed the same. so i did the same, removed the sticker and let it drain. so is this a common problem, and how is water getting in, and what is the fix and is it easy. cheers guys Darren

citrophile, thank your for the info. i have learnt something new, and what you say makes sense. its been a few weeks now since i have changed the cam sensor, and i have not had a problem with starting since the change. just one thing though, even though the car seemed to run ok before the change(once it started lol), since changing the cam sensor the performance is definitely a lot better, especially low end torque, and mpg has also improved. the problem is you get used to something, and its when something is changed, is when you notice the difference. i had thought for a while though, and i had only mentioned to a friend that the car drives well, but sometimes i do feel the it dont pull like a 2.2. and its only the cam sensor i have changed.

Hi all When I send the suspension to its highest level. The pump just continues to run and it never comes up on the dash that the height as been reached. It does at all other levels, just not the highest.I need to manually adjust the sensors. Can someone tell me where they are and how to adjust.mk3 2008 onwards. Cheers Darren

Thanks for the replies. Paul this was not an old fault. For months I have kept deleting the fault and it re appears. I have had this intermittent start problem but weeks apart for months. It was becoming more frequent though. Anyway i have changed the cam sensor a week ago now. I have had no starting problems since. A noticeable increase in low rev torque and mpg is better. And no cam sensor fault. Now why did I never get a limp home mode?. I don't know if it listing as a intermittent fault and not perm fault makes a difference or not. I did unplug the old sensor and it went into limp mode straight away so that worked. anyway it seems ok and runs a dream. not that it ran bad before to be honest. It goes to show how you can not notice a slow deterioration in performance until something changes.

Thanks for the reply. But no I have had no limp mode come on. Maybe because it was a intermittent fault, and not a permanent fault it did not cause the limp mode to kick in. All I know is I have changed the cam sensor and the low rev torque is a lot better and It started perfect this morning to, but I'm Not getting to excited yet as it would start ok sometimes but the signs are good. Oh and my mpg seems to be better according to the dash.

Hi all I am about to change the fuel filter. It is the sealed unit filter on the front of the engine. It looks straight foward, but the straight foward jobs can end up being the worse. Can someone just talk me through what I need to in order. The removing is not the issue, it's the refitting and bleeding etc so it starts ok after. Thanks guys Darren

I put a diagnostic on it. It came up with P1351 intermittent cam sensor failure. I have changed it £17. I must admit the car has got a new lease of life under acceleration that over time you don't notice the deterioration. Let's see if changes the starting problem?

hi guys I have a intermittent problem. i have had the car(c5 x7 2.2hdi 2008) for almost 12 months, and on the odd occasion(once every 6 weeks average say) it struggles to start in the morning mainly, or after a long time being parked(8/10 hours plus)parked up. once its starts it is fine, and as i use it through the day, you can start and stop it as many times as you want, it starts and runs fine and has never gave me a problem during the normal usage in a day. it is just in the morning or after a very long park. but this week it has done it twice already and seems to be more frequent. symptoms - it always attempts to start on the turn of the key every time without fail, but just for a split second then dies. Turn the key to start again, and again it attempts to start just for a split second and dies. i have to do this 7 to 10 times then it suddenly starts perfectly with no smoke or anything and drives perfect. i have noticed that when i do attempt to start as i explained above, yes it does seem to try and start and fire up for that split second on the turn of the key, but if after it has done its attempt to start if i was to keep the key turned in the start position, it will just continue to turn over and over with no attempt to start. it is only when i release the key, and then attempt to start again does it give the impression it is about to start for that split second then dies. like i say i have to do this many times before it starts. please help me :-) Daz

cheers guys.... its not the suspension. I opened the bonnet and lock and unlock the doors. when the doors unlock you can hear various clicks as relays kick in, but this noise is coming from the egr valve. if you put your hand on the egr body you can feel it pulsing/knocking. and yes it does the same when the engine is switched off. only runs for a few seconds each time. but its suddenly become noticeable, and I wondered what does this mean. wondered if anybody has had this then it resulted is something happening or problems. I will have a look at the blanking plate, but by blanking the egr does this not cause ecu or bsi problems with it not working or blanked?

hi guys for a couple of days i have had a strange noise started coming from the engine bay. it happens as i unlock the car, or turn the ignition on and when i have switch the engine off. just for a few seconds i hear a electrical motor noise, i have never heard this before. anyway after inspecting the noise is coming from the egr valve. funny sound to describe really but its a clicking motor running noise, and I can feel the motor pulsing with my hand on it. I assume whenever I do any of the above it is going through some pre start check or something. the car at the moment runs ok, it is just this noise that has started. has anybody got any ideas or what problems could I get if something was to pack up all together. cheers Daz

Occasionally as I switch the ignition on, I get the dreaded ping and park brake fault on display(I have electronic hand brake) and service light is on, and the car will not even turn over or attempt to start. Turn the ignition off and on again everything fine. Car starts and everything ok. Any ideas guys Daz

thanks for the reply, much apreciated. it did it again this morning, but only handbrake fault and service light was on, and the car wouldn't turn over just dead. didn't touch anything this morning, just switched ignition off and on and it was fine. i have hydro suspension so when i get in the car the suspension pump runs for a while to level suspension, which i had switched the ignition on as the pump was running. i hear a lot of battery problems causing ghost faults so to speak, so i suppose i need to eliminate the obvious. and these faults to date only occur as i switch ignition on to start. no problems whilst driving. if i can mention some history with the car since i brought it. i brought the car 4 months ago now. a month after buying it i kept getting economy mode all the time. if i was lucky for it not to go into economy mode as soon as i turned the ignition off, or at tops you would be talking 5 mins or less and the radio would go off, or id open the boot but it wouldn't close, which was a pain, and it sounded sluggish on starting first time. Now i changed a battery which was a 75amp battery which they gave me for the car, smaller than the one i taken off, but size isnt everything lol. all was fine until recently where i am getting economy mode again occasionally. now generally i do short journeys 6 mile to work and 6 back, and shopping which is a typical day. i was cleaning the car the weekend and the radio lasted 5 mins went into eco mode. Now roll back a few weeks, i went to devon on holiday 180 mile a few weeks ago, and obviously driving around whilst there. this eco mode did start again before i went on holiday, but whilst away and for the few a couple of weeks when i got back it was fine, but i put this down to getting a good charge, but now again, 5 to 10 mins mins with the radio on, or interior lights, on or a couple of openings of the electric boot it goes into eco mode and it does sound sluggish as it did this morning when the park brake fault was on. i checked the charge rate the weekend and it was 14.3 - 14.5v with the engine running. so alternator seems ok. i know it could be a faulty battery, which is warranted, but is 75A right for the car or what is recommended. or is there anything else you could suggest or any ideas cheers Darren

Right guys need to pick your brains. C5 mk3 2008 onwards 2.2 exclusive with electronic handbrake. Right here we go lol. Twice in two days when I get into the car, as I switch the ignition on to start the car, I have the esp/de pollution fault/hand brake fault with the service light on, and the car does not even attempt to start. Does not even turn over to try to start. So its not turning over and won't start it's dead. Now it may be coinsedence but after turning the ignition on and off I still get the warnins, but I think by pressing the handbrake the warnings go away and the car starts. But when it's done this I am pressing things frantically but I'm sure the twice it's cleared it has been by pressing the hand brake, but please don't take that as gospal. I need to slow down and see if it does it again. I have read that de pollution fault is triggered by other things. But any ideas guys. The car drives absolutely fine, this is on attempting to start the car. Cheers Daz

Hi guys. Not had my 2.2 2008 c5 mk3 exclusive long, but have never noticed the headlight washerswork. It has standard bulbs and not xceon. Firstly does mine have headlight washers?. If so how do they work?. Do they work after so many windscreen washes or only when sidelights are on or full headlights are on?. If i have and there not working what should i look at?. cheers guys for the advice. daz

hi all just brought the latest diagbox with the latest pp2000. all is fine, but can someone tell me is there various ways, or correct or incorrect ways to do the diagnostics. is it with ignition on or off?, or engine running or not?. or is it dependent as to what you are diagnosing. can someone help and give me advice. cheers Darren

just a update. i cleaned off the boot earlier. did full lock left to right several times, and checked the boot. there was a droplet forming on the bottom of the boot, so def looks like the rack. any ideas or is it a re con rack coming.

no its def from the gaiter. it is only ever wet on the bottom half of the gaiter, never on the top anywhere,which you would expect if it was being dripped on from above, plus i have been underneath looking, and i can not see any evidence that oil is coming from anywhere else from above the rack. and the rack boot obviously stretches and shrinks, and it is only ever in the same place and same point on the boot. a bit of a mystery.

morning from previous posts i am a new Citroen owner. i have a very slight leak from the steering rack, and i am asking if anyone knows if this can be repaired on the car. the leak is from the drivers side outer gaiter(wheel arch area). i can see the gaiter looks a little perished but not ripped or broke, but enough for the fluid to seep or soak through. the gaiter becomes wet after driving about half way along the gaiter. when i say slight leak, i get a droplet form on the gaiter, i sometimes leave it on a full lock and then i wipe it, and then its ok, occasionally i may see a small spot on the floor where a droplet as dripped if i was to leave it and bother to wipe it after a drive, so i am only talking slight at the moment, but the fact is it is not right. from other cars i have worked on, i assume it should be dry behind the gaiter unless i am wrong on Citroens, if someone can conform this or not for me?. secondly, if it is supposed to be dry, then i presume a seal as gone where the rack moves in and out of the rack housing on turning. Does anyone know if this can be replaced or repaired ? thanks guys for your help Darren

Thank you all for your help. I am new to this forum, and to citreon, so reading up on a few things etc. I will check the level the weekend. I brought the latest diagbox with lexia. Loaded it onto the laptop but have not tried it on the car yet. Shall try that the weekend also...Again cheers for your help guys 👌

hi all I have been converted lol...i am now a Citroen owner and have had it for just 2 weeks. On a serious note i am asking for advice on how to check the suspension fluid on my 2008 mk3 C5 2.2. it is working ok but i just would like to check the level for peace of mind. is there a procedure to follow, as in position of the suspension etc. i did start to remove the cap last night, heard some pressure being released so i just re tightened. obviously it is pressurised, but before i do any more i was checking as what is the correct procedure, and what risks is there. i was worried about the suspension not working after i remove the cap, if i don't do something first. it might sound like a obvious question but i would rather check...... thanks guys Darren