Johntheshop

I just bought lexia 3 from easy diagnostics on eBay. I bought the expensive version as I played it safe for the extra £25 as I plan to get a new shape c5 in the future and they say it works with the new c5. Not sure if it's any different to the others. I was surprised to see the hardware cable was very good quality and made in France. It's one if the A1281Z interfaces. Software looked identical to the Chinese ones on YouTube. It took me a few hours to get it running as the instructions could have been a lot better and they need updating. To the point I looked at the Chinese YouTube vids to fill the gaps. The instructions I received looked snazzy but they missed out the hardware driver installation and just concentrated on the software install. The update install instructions were in an update directory rather than in the main install instructions. I would have been happier with a longhand black and white txt document that covered everything accurately. Maybe I'm picky as I am an engineer and written a few instruction manuals in my time. I could have taken me half the time if I had known what I was doing. Install the main lexia program. Reboot and let it setup when the program starts. This first install takes quite some time. Then do every software update in order one at a time. I had 5 I think. Install one at a time in order, reboot everytime,and open lexia everytime so it sets itself up. It takes a while. Then install the hardware driver. You may find the computer doesnt recognise the cable. Reboot again, replug in the cable and when windows says where is the driver,let windows find it from the disk and let it reload it itself. All seemed to be fine after that. If you have used vag com or any other diagnostics before you will be surprised how basic the interface looks. It's a bit zx81 and clunky with no discriptions when you hover the buttons. The star button is ok ,the reload symbol is go back a step. It isn't very intuative. That said a Chinese video later I did get the hang of it and turned my eBay cruise control stalk on pretty quickly. It seems to like 32 bit windows XP so I put it on my old laptop. I tried to install it on a newer laptop using xp emulator on windows 7. It was beyond my IT skills. Good luck with the install.

Thanks guys for all you answers. I am still on my brim to brim test as I have worked from home the last few days. The indecator is still showing 42.8. Ill post up what I calculate after my test is done. Slowing down is actually a bit more stressful for the first leg of my journey as I get lorrys and middle lane hoggers for the first bit. The fast lane athough faster is free flowing and you dont have to keep changing lanes. For the second half though slowing down is an option, plus there is a 50mph average camera section. Timing belt was done last year and I always use fully synthetic oil so should be ok there. In an effort to regulate my heavy foot on the 50mph and second section I have bought a cruise control stalk to retro fit.. I have checked under the steering cowling for the plug and under the glovebox for the brake switch configuration and Hardware wise I am ready to rock. I will be buying lexia next so I can turn it on ( from that chap reccomnded on this site) . Hopefully should be relativly straight forward. I have been follwing this excelent guide. http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/TechDocs/C5/c5cruiseretrofit.pdf I seem to collect car diagnostic software between all the VWs, Alfas and others I have had. Fingers crossed the old girl will remain super reliable but I am sure Lexia will come in handy for the next citroen in a few years that will have all the emissions bells and whilstles that I have managed to avoid with the old model C5.

Thanks, I managed to get the guage to show 43.9 yesterday but traffic was heavyier so slowed me down a few mph. I will experiment more with a happy speed. Like many commuters I have a sweet spot time I have to achieve in various on route locations to miss the common traffic build ups I dont suppose the egr is such an issue with the C5's as the part is quote cheap ( compared to others I have bought) and I believe its has a fixed vane turbo. My Vw vans in the past have always had the egr deleted as they have variable vane turbos which always clog up and causing overboost faults , The wifes Vw car is suffering from it now, hers isnt deleted. Its a common Vw issue. Its one reason why I like the citroen is that little bit of a technical step back that makes it more reliable. I can put up with a electrical glitch here and there just not the engine conking out. Thanks for the advice.

Hi all, I have had my latest citroen ( long line of cars and vans) for about a year its a 2.0HDI 2004 on 80,000. Its in extreemly good condition and everything works as it should. Engine is smooth, no drips and all fine. I always manage to find good low mile cars and service and maintain as I have always done above average miles. I will be doing even more miles for a few years at least 25k a year. Working from previous experience (last xiantia went to 278K and the dispatch van 220K) I know I have a good 4 years and 100K left in her. For me its the ideal motorway car. Comfy, armrest, quiet at speed, no DPF, Depreciation is cheaper than servicing and cheap to run. I would like to get to 200K with as few problems as possible and its all motorway mileage so I am after advice from other high milers and taxi drivers etc. Would you - 1. Delete the EGR to reduce chance of sooting up engine and turbo? 2. Remap to get better mpg ? 3. Clean the MAF regularly? 4. Use any fuel treatments? 5. Anything else? Before I have left it to the gods and standard serviceing. This time I have less local mileage and mostly national so I feel I need to be more forward thinking. I am only now doing a brim to brim MPG check, the digital readout moves between 38.2- 42. Seems a bit low, but engine runs perfectly. Does the readout normally under read? Saying that I dont hang around and if I get the chance I will happily sit on the motorway at 80-85 so may be about right. I may be able to get more MPG from another car but in my experience bigger depreciation often wipes out the benifit and some more. Any hints and help gratefully recieved. John

Solder fest this morning. Its only 4 wires, but on the first joint I realised I was not as good at soldering as I fondly remembered especially in the footwell of a car. A 1 min youtube video later sitting in the front seat re-educated me to tin the iron and all was well again. What ever did we do before the tinternet? ( lots of bady soldered joints i suppose) New resistor fits same as the old one and it all works fine. I am a contented C5 Owner again. Octo I hope the resister repair works as it looks a cheaper and less hands on fix, but if not I can say this replacement part fits, works and the supplier above was the cheapest and super quick delivery.

Yes octo you are correct is that type of resistor, the other ones pointed to by coastline are for another year or something, I read about fixing the resistor and i wasnt sure what they were going to repair. One site mentioned the thermal fuse being the fault. I by passed the fuse to test it using tin foil to no effect. Then did it properly with a meter. The fuse seemed ok. One site supplies repair kits for the fuse , but you can also buy a fuse in Maplin for a few pounds. As the new resistor cost £34 which had moved into my acceptable price range range I ordered it. and it arrived today. Quick delivery as I only ordered it yesterday. I have a picture of what is in the kit, https://www.flickr.com/photos/136141426@N05/21447106465/in/album-72157658253537629/ but have no idea to upload it on this forum. It is identical apart from the new connector which has beefier connectors and have generous 8 inch tails on all wires which are same colour code as the old loom. I have dusted off the soldering iron and I am planning a solder fest in between rain tomorrow. Should only take half hour. Hopefully that will solve the problem. I will report back.

After some hours on the internet I have the following conclusions that may be useful to others who are searching for a replacement part for a 2001-2004C5 heater resistor Valeo part number KR2464. There are no new identical parts, replacement parts come with a new connector and wiring that requires the old plug to be cut off and new one soldered on.The old plug connection had a problem with overheating and melting, hence the new plug design with the new plug.The replacement part is VALEO SERVICE 509351. Search on this and become very infuriated as this part comes in 3 pieces, the resistor, screws and new connector. Most of the internet shows the part number with a picture of a plastic bag with 2 screws. I guess this is an automated thing where the website pics the first of the 3 pictures. Most sites only show the picture of the screws.More infuriating is the discription can be anything from blower resistor, air con actuator, heater actuator, blower control module, heater blower motor etc etc etc.Other Part numbers are: 6441T6 (This is the Citroen part number - moderator edit)I managed to find a new part (ECC6441T6) for £34 inc postage from eurocarcare french and italian . Their page explained the new connector which was nice. They were also on amazon for about £41.Once you have the new connector block, if you need a new resistor in the future they can be bought from German ebay for about £8, I couldnt find the new connector seperatly.Not used this parts comapny before, I am sure will be fine. Ill post back when delivered and fitted to complete this post to save anyone else having to do same research.

Thanks. I'll look at that today. I did some more research yesterday and I can't find a direct replacement new. What is sold as the new one comes with a new loom tails that will need to be soldered on as the connector is different.

Hi everyone. My blower resistor has gone and I only get the heater blower to work in settings 3and 4. The resistor is the Matt green type with a thermal fuse on the end. Part number Valeo kr2464 for a 2001-2004 car. I have tried to bypass the the thermal fuse to no effect so j am assuming the issue is the resistors breaking down. I am trying to find a replacement but I am shocked at the price. On eBay new parts are £60-70, where later or earlier c5 resistors (metal type with green connector) are a tenner. There are plenty of my resistor types for other cars for £6-20, but obviously with different connectors and mounting patterns. I wouldn't grumble if all of the resistors were the same price but mine has hit the jackpot. My question is does anyone know if this part is common to another vehicle so I can search on that also to see if I can get a better price. Apart from that a great car with no other issues and did 25,000 miles last year without a skip. Thanks John