MichaelDavis

Thanks Paul

Any ideas anyone - Paul, Coastline?

That is exactly the place I was referring to Paul, I checked my neighbours C5 2007 2.0hdi saloon and he has now cut a section of the cowling away from the pipe so is no longer touching. I'm surprised no one else has mentioned checking their C5s as 2 out of 3 vehicles not being right is not a great ratio is it? It's a serious issue if people leave it as it will wear through the pipework- I even saw a C5 on eBay a few weeks ago that had this leak being sold for spares or repair so it does happen.

New DMF and clutch fitted, new egr fitted, new turbo vac solenoid fitted - engine still judders on startup and when switched off, new engine mount fitted drivers side- other 2 mounts are fine- what on earth causes the engine to shake/shudder?

I am posting this information to help everyone who has a Mark2 C5. The hydraulic pipe which runs along underneath the car on the drivers side on right hand drive cars has what i would describe as a design flaw from the factory- if you have a look underneath any C5 at the rear where the pipe exits from underneath the cowling you will find that the cowling is actually touching the pipe or if not it is very close to touching it. To rectify this please cut away a piece of the cowling very easily using a stanley knife so that the pipe will be clear from any chaffing. I know this as i have just had to have my pipe repaired - it could have cost me £800 at Citroen or also same at independent repairers but i found a solution which is a great repair. Check your pipework now before its too late as this can lead to catastrophic suspension failure - oh yes i lost all 5.5 litres of fluid due to this!!! If anyone wants to know the easiest and cheapest solution to repairing the pipework at the rear of hydraulics if yours has already started leaking then i can tell you how to make a successful repair for the least cost which is safe and will pass mot inspection. Thank you for your attention Michael

Thanks for info Paul.

Well strangely after switching on the engine for the fourth time since the depollution fault showed - the fault and engine light have cleared. I think I'm going to have a word with my mechanic to see about the egr coding and see if any codes have been recorded on ECU.

Drove 65miles down motorway no problem, on return home after a 50mph speed limit due to roadworks pressed cruise control to accelerate to 70 and depollution fault came on display. I've tried driving in lower gear to get revs up to 4k for some distance still fault plus engine light on, I've disconnected battery for an hour fault comes on straight away so tried driving motorway speed in low gear still no effect. I only use premium fuel, car is extremely well looked after service wise. Only thing that's been changed recently is cambelt and water pump along with replacement Valeo EGR - old one was actually perfect except the fixing bolt s had worked loose so it was blowing slightly from the gasket - I'd bought the new one as egr valves usually don't last forever and i had been having a symptom which was pointing towards a faulty egr. I had new turbo and oil feed pipe fitted last year and looking at the oil feed pipe today it's covered in black soot along with the turbo casing too but the original never looked like this so i don't know if there is an exhaust leak from the turbo or if it's normal. If anyone has any ideas what's caused the depolution fault I'm all ears. Car drives but feels a little sluggish - it was sluggish after new cambelt but not all the time just odd days again don't know why.

Paul I was just wondering whether or not to change the chain since the cambelt is getting done. There is no unusual noises coming from the chain and the engine is actually quite quiet for one of these 1.6 engines. My reason for thinking of changing was because I had read on the internet that some chains had stretched or snapped with catastrophic results. I think I will check with Citroen to see whether the chain is recommended to be changed or not. I don't want to spend more than necessary to keep this car going as it has been eating a big hole in my pocket what with turbo charger, heater flaps,brake calliper,battery and starter motor, egr valve and tyres all in past 6 months!!

Thank you for the info, will have my mechanic check it out.

Any advice?

I'm going to have my cambelt changed and water pump. Will I need to change the timing chain which this engine has at the same time? One garage told me they only ever do the belt so I'm unsure what to do. Appreciate your advice in advance

No I hadn't - but both sets of tyres are very quiet anyway in fact get more wind noise than anything else- one area that has not been sealed correctly in the factory is the rear boot glass at the top corner of the hatch but come the summer I'm going to carefully remove it and glue it where it should be- I put some electrical tape in that area to seal it up and amazing the difference it made.

A month on and still no flickering headlights plus another bonus - no faults codes found on a random computer diagnostics check- this is a first for me with this car it has always had codes for this or that. I'm starting to really like this car the more I fix it- I think it had a hard life before I owned it and got just basic servicing- just need to change all discs and pads and egr valve and thermostat housing to make it perfect I think!It still drives and brakes but not as smooth as it could be.

I haven't done anything with heater resistor - but I have fitted a brand new slightly more amperage battery and heater has been fine. I had a computer hooked up to my car recently and no faults were found which is the first time in 3 years I have ever had no codes!!! So maybe anyone having faults show up should try a new slightly more powerful battery - my old battery was tested and I was told it was fine but clearly it wasn't.