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alfsc4gp

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  1. If your car is misting up inside then it could be that some water getting in via the heater fan. Do you hear a sloshing sound when going round corners after or during heavy rain? Then it's a cinch one or both of your screen gutter drain boots are blocked. I had this problem and after speaking to mechanics at my local Citroen dealer they said this had became such a common fault for Citroen mechanics that the official response is to now remove them and throw them in the bin! I did just this and I have never had the problem since. :) My car doesn't mist up inside like before either as it stays drier inside. Problem is, before I had a chance to remove the offending boots, some water from the gutter got into the fan controller, blowing it...I had to spend over 150 quid getting a new replacement! I would remove the screen gutter boots and throw them away ASAP before the same happens to you!...It will also stop water getting to your car by preventing the gutter from being over-filled after rain, and therefore will help reduce or even stop your car from misting up.
  2. Not sure if it's your DPF that's to blame but it is possible to clean the DPF manually, using a hosepipe to flush it out (seen a video showing how to do it on youtube)...After raising the front of the car, placing it on axle stands and removing the engine undertray, you just undo the bottom exhaust clip and then undo the big steel circlip at the bottom of the DPF housing...The DPF itself can then be slid out out downwards out its housing (may need some effort to do this). After cleaning, dry the DPF off with a hot air gun and refit to car. My first suspicion is that you might simply have a badly clogged air filter instead as that can adversely effect fuel ecomony. The standard Citroen induction system is a poor design to say the least (especially in regard to where the filter housing is located!)...I replaced the entire system (filter housing, pipes and it's location) with a high flow custom version and I get about 10mpg more! (with my heavy right foot, that equates to about 75-100 miles more per tank full). Also, check the bearings on your turbo...take the pipe off the turbo inlet and try gently wiggling the impellor side to side with your finger...if there is more than a mm or two of movement then your turbo will need replacing...A turbo in poor condition with reduce the power of the engine, causing you to use more throttle than you otherwise would, which in turn will increase your fuel consumption.
  3. Glad you got it sorted, but just for future information though...the injectors used on the 1.6 HDi (as with most cars these days with common rail injection systems) are switched on and off with electrical signals from the ECU. If a wire breaks inside the plug on the injector, that injector will not work, giving you the symptoms of running on three cylinders, and hence you will get more vibration. I found this out when I managed to get a very low hours 50 hp fuel injected 3 cylinder outboard for my boat, worth over £5000 new, for just £1300...I got it so cheap because the previous owner could not work out why the outboard ran so rough and had so much vibration and he ended up buying a brand new replacement...I subsequently discovered 1 tiny wire had broken off the plug going to one of the injectors...Fixed it and the engine ran perfectly smooth! :)
  4. For about a month now my 1.6 HDI VTR+ has had a coolant leak. I wasn't sure where the water was going but I was topping it up every day and after doing a 30 mile round trip to work and back it was using over a litre per day! I took the car to my local Citroen dealer and got one of the technicians to look at it...He said it looks like its your thermostat housing, and then he had the cheek to tell me "you won't be able to fix that". Little did he know that I am a tad mechanically minded...I build Mclaren sports cars for a living! So I said thanks and I went on my way. The trouble with the housing in question is its buried away on the side of the engine and you cannot simply replace the thermostat...You have to change the entire housing as the thermostat is moulded into the plastic housing. The new housing was £76 inc vat from Citroens, but I found one elsewhere for £57. Halfords has them for about 45 quid but it was hard to get to Halfords from my house. The procedure went something like the following: Remove the air intake pipe and the front air intake box which is in front of the battery. Remove the plastic battery cover and remove the battery followed by the lower plastic battery box, then the metal battery tray (Note: this requires removal of the LF front wheel and wheel arch liner to access one m13 bolt, the rest are under the bonnet). The flat electrical fusey thingy which clips onto the top of the plastic battery cover can be left alone (leave it connected to its wires) and just move it to one side. Remove 1xm13 bolt holding a metal bracket which is directly in front of the Thermostat housing and remove the bracket. Disconnect the hoses from the housing...The left hand one at the back of the housing has a special push fitting which I did not know to to remove...Eventually I worked out how...squeezing the white clip down with a pair of molegrips. Now you can get to the four m6 stainless bolts that hold the housing on. take the old housing off and replace with the new one, remembering to fit the new blue plastic gasket. Whist I had easy access to the airbox I noticed that the right hand securing grommet had broken off the lid! This had allowed the bottom right hand corner of the airbox to rub against the push fit pipe from the back of the Thermostat housing...wearing the box paper thin! I repaired it by glueing some self amalgamating tape over the hole and I glued a suitable rubber grommet to the lid. Now the airbox fits properly and it no longer rubs on the pipe...By the way, repair is highly recommended as a replacement airbox is about £118!!! I put everything back in reverse order, filled it with water and antifreeze and then set about trying to bleed the cooling system. Believe it or not but I search for hours on the internet for information on how to do this, and could find absolutely nothing! So here is how I did it...Even after filling the system through the expansion tank, no water was seen coming from the top of the radiator when the top pipe was pulled off...I filled the radiator through the top inlet with a hosepipe...The rest of the coolant was red antifreeze and distilled water. Replaced the hose and undid the bleed cap on the front of the thermostat housing whilst the engine was running...There was only a tiny amount of air that came out and then it ran clear. When the airbox was off I noticed another bleed cap on the heater pipes at the back of the engine...I reached around the back and undid this one too...I could not actually see the other bleed cap once the airbox was on so it was all done by feel. That is as far as I could go to bleed it as they seem to be the only two bleed points in the whole coolant system. Even after running the engine for more than ten minutes the radiator was still stone cold but the fan did come on after I put the A/C on inside car and turned the heat right up. This worried me as surely the radiator should get warm??? After ringing Citroen the next day about this they basically said that it sounds normal as a the rad on a Diesel takes ages to heat up! I am still worried that I have not bled the system properly...I will just have to assume I have! Unless you guys know different?
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