Nervoptik

Thanks for your reply Paul.My wife called insurance for a locksmith. I wasn't home but she said that the guy used 2 screwdrivers or some sort of trough the hole where the locking barell was and forced the catch mechanism. I'm happy with that ... no broken glass, no mess ... i really apreciate what this guy did. Now the door will close but wont lock. Which is perfect. I don't believe anyone will steal a £500 car. When I'll have time I'll buy aan used door catch and dismantle it to take out the sliding bit that makes it deadlock. Regarding the remote ... never tryed 2 clicks on lock. I think it's just flashes the winkers for a long time. Thank you Paul.

Hi there once again. My wife's Pluriel strikes again after new battery and new alternator fited a few months back. This time the car stood for 3 days and battery drained itself. She managed to unlock the car, try starting it but couldn't crank. She locked the car and got the bus. After 4 hours I came home and couldn't get unlocked. I hardly managed to squeez my 6 pack belly under the bumper and reached my hand between engine and rad to open the bonnet lock. Put the jump start pack on battery terminals and tryed to unlock it from remote ... nothing. Dead! Tryed passanger door with the key and the lock barrel just spins freely right and left doing absolutelly nothing. Tryed drivers's door ... barrel broke off and i pull it out of the door with the key :)) I've heared a few parts falling inside the door and that's it ... a nice big hole to the unknown. I,ve checked on google how the handle mechanism looks like on the inside and found the white litle plastic that pulls the cable to unlock, but it's doing nothing. Now ... literally i scratch my head and start looking on ebay which window is cheaper... unless someone has a better idea. Even if I break in, i guess the inner handles won't open the doors, but am I able to start the car and reprogram the remote? From your experience which window is easyest to replace? Thank you!

Hi Paul. Steering angle sensor i would imagine it would light up the abs also when front end is lifted and steer l/r all the way ... right? I haven't checked the bearings as you said ... i will next time i'll lift it up. Cheers. Question: is ecu reading abs sensors to show up the speed on dash, or is there any other speed sensor in the gearbox? Cheers.

Hi. As I've solved the charging system failure, i would like your opinion or expertiese about ABS on C3/Pluriel as MOT is due next month. When steering more than 1/2 turn left or right at stand still or low speed the ABS light comes on falowed by the 3 beeps. If the care is droven straight or very little steering, abs light stays off and all works good. I have suspended the front end to check plugs and even abs sensors and no matter how much i have steer, the ABS light stays off. That is making me believe that it might be a suspension/drivetrain/ bearings problem which only occures under weight stress of the car. Anyone had this kind of problem? Any ideas? Cheers.

Hi guys, just came back to let you know what happened with charging problems. ALTERNATOR ... that was the problem. As i pointed before, i've seen a crack in the alternator casing. I went to carspares and got brand new aftermarket alternator for about 80 quid + old alternator in exchange. All perfect. Charging is at 14.4V every time. Now it's time to check an older ABS problem on a new thread :)

Same wiring route on this one, but i had checked the continuity between alternator terminal and pozitive term on batt and all is good.I'm still waiting the parcel with alt. Cheers and thanks for help.

Thanks Paul, swapped the batts. No change. Must be the alternator. I'll buy a sh one. Cheers.

Hi Paul, thanks for reply. I got a Laguna, and it starts charging immediately to 14.2 as the c3 does when engine is warm. Unfortunately i cannot test laguna's battery on c3 because its bigger. I haven't tried c3s batt on laguna, but i'll do it over the weekend. All wires has been checked, ground ... etc. Multimeter shows 0.4 volts lower on cigarette socket than on batts terminals but always drops with the same ratio. Do you know if this alternator is a self excited and the litle wire is just for dashboard battery light? Or is excited trough that litle wire? Cheers

I know is hard to belive, but it is true. Only my wife drives in the city with the multimeter connected to the cigarette lighter plug :)I charge the battery every 3-4 days for about 6 hours to make sure she'll be ok. The thing is that the battery drops down to 9.2 in few minutes (8-10 min) there's plenty of consumers (steering, fan, indicators, abs, airbag, ecu, etc) and somehow alternator starts kicking in and in the rest of 15 minutes of journey it manage to charge the battery back. After 8 hours while my wife is at work, car starts fine from 12.5, drops to 9.2 and charging again. The battery charger test indicates that battery is at 90% of its lifetime. Today using wipers (which were visibly struggling) battery dropped to 8.8, steering became harder, and finally alternator kicked in. I'm not sure if it's temperature related tho ... because if the engine is still warm (1-2 hours) it kicks in straight away. I'm pretty disappointed and frustrated because i don't really wanna buy new battery or alternator to find out that may be something else. I know that this alt has only 2 wires. A thick one to battery for charging and an excitation wire. Is the excitation wire going trough some sort of relay or anything? Cheers.

Hi guys, maybe someone will point me to the right direction with this: I have a Pluriel 1.4 petrol 8v my 2003. Recently alternator won't charge until voltage drops to 9.2 - 9.4V. Basically, after starting the engine (cold) voltage drops volt by volt and all systems stops one by one in this order: abs, airbag, radio, then finaly battery light comes on at about 9.2V and suddenly it starts charging and stabilise at 14.2V, and battery light goes off. My wife says that she can hear like a sizzling 3 times (last one longer) in the glove compartment right before it starts charging. I thought that alternator had a bad earth so i took it off the car, clean it with some brake cleaner and put it back on. Still the same, but i have seen on the alt casing thst it has a crack on the back cover (where rectifier is). I'm not sure if it's alternator's foult or is there any other relay or system that controls it. Any idea? Cheers! P.s. if the engine is still worm/hot when it starts, it's charging straight away as normal.

I`ve asked the previews lady owner which had it for 1.5 years and she said she knows nothing about this change ... Thanks everyone for input. Cheers

There is actually a thing that bothers me more ... The cat housing is touching the oil filter, basically squashing it about 1cm in one corner. There should be around 4-500°C. Is it ok? I mean, the oil in filter will probably have the consistency of water. Is it a good idea to have a second exhaust manifold (without cat) from a saxo to swap it? And put the cat one just for mot? Cheers.

Thank you Paul. I`ll try as you said and keep you posted. Many thanks!

Thank you Paul.Indeed it looks like an 1.4 Saxo engine. In the meantime I`ve ordered a kfv inlet manifold which won`t fit as the Saxo head has a bigger space between 2nd and 3rd inlet ports. On C3 thhis space is mach more small. What do you suggest? Should I buy a C3 engine or should i let this one on? I`m not so shure about fuel echonomy. Ecu shows on dash 30mpg in city, but i belive the tank sender and remaining miles drops down much quicker. It feels like there is a discrepancy between mpg and remaining miles. Or maybe i`m not used with a 40 liters tank, as the other car has 75 and about the same pmg in city. I found a C3 kfv engine on ebay for about 170 pound... Can anyone tell me what`s the average mpg in city? Thank you everyone.

L.E. Forgot to mention that is a C3 Pluriel 2003. 1.4 ohc

Hi everyone. I`ve bought a C3 Pluriel last week and changed sparkplugs, oil and filters. I do belive that the engine and inlet manifold were changed. 1st thing i`ve noticed is that the oil filter is not a paper cartridge one, but metal one, so I`ve put a Saxo one. Also i had to loose the exhaust manifold and pull it forward to change the filter as it`s touching the cat housing as you can see in pictures. I`ve looked to see if the oil filter housing had been removed, but there are no threaded holes in the engine to mount a filter housing. 2nd thing is the inlet manifold, which at the begining I`ve tought that was cracked and glued, but it`s now obvious that was hand crafted and the shape was changed to fit the genuine`s car throttle body. Yeah, i know ... I`m a retard because i didn`t pay attention when I bought it, but the car runs fine and it felt ok in road test. It`s still working fine, but it bothers me big time. Does anyone know what model is this engine comming from? Also what inlet manifold is that? Another thing ... Anyone knows where engine serial number is? Pics: Thank you.