Timing Belt Changing Procedure For 01 2.2 Hdi Auto

[Old Mosher]

Hi everyone.

I'm planning to drive our trusty 2001 2.2Hdi automatic to Spain and back this summer So I'm leaving nothing to chance and servicing any thing I can think of that could let it down.

 

1: I'm half way through a full belt kit and water pump change, but for the life of me I can't find the hole to put a locking pin into the fly wheal.

There's a gap above and below the starter motor but no hole. I also looked round the back above the diff but can't see one there.

 

2: Also what is the correct procedure for the cam pulley, do I lock it and slacken the bolts on the pulley tension the belt and then do up the pulley bolts again?

 

3: Is there a good rule of thumb for belt tension without buying the tools for the job.

 

I have access to a workshop, lathe, mill and so on, so I could make tools to do the job if someone could give me the dimensions.

I did have a look around in the forum, but couldn't find a definitive answer to the 2.2 Hdi Auto.

[woodywoodpecker]

Hi everyone.

I'm planning to drive our trusty 2001 2.2Hdi automatic to Spain and back this summer So I'm leaving nothing to chance and servicing any thing I can think of that could let it down.

 

1: I'm half way through a full belt kit and water pump change, but for the life of me I can't find the hole to put a locking pin into the fly wheal.

There's a gap above and below the starter motor but no hole. I also looked round the back above the diff but can't see one there.

 

2: Also what is the correct procedure for the cam pulley, do I lock it and slacken the bolts on the pulley tension the belt and then do up the pulley bolts again?

 

3: Is there a good rule of thumb for belt tension without buying the tools for the job.

 

I have access to a workshop, lathe, mill and so on, so I could make tools to do the job if someone could give me the dimensions.

I did have a look around in the forum, but couldn't find a definitive answer to the 2.2 Hdi Auto.

 

Hi mate i did exactly the same as you looking for the timing hole near the starter motor, It is just infront of the drivers side driveshaft where it goes into the gearbox its alot easier if you dissconnect the the plastic turbo pipe that runs under the sump you can then get your hand up easy and insert the pin, i think it was a 6mm drill bit that i used to lock the crank. I used an 8mm drill bit to lock the camshaft, as for the belt tension you should just be able to twist the belt through 90 degrees on its longest run. Make 100% sure after the new belt is fitted that you can insert both timing pins after turning the engine over with a spanner first befor you even attemp to start it off the key. I have the diagram on autodata but it wont let me save it to upload for you. A peugeot 406 haynes manual shows you everthing with photo's as it is the same engine. Hope this helps you.

[Old Mosher]

Hi mate i did exactly the same as you looking for the timing hole near the starter motor, It is just infront of the drivers side driveshaft where it goes into the gearbox its alot easier if you dissconnect the the plastic turbo pipe that runs under the sump you can then get your hand up easy and insert the pin, i think it was a 6mm drill bit that i used to lock the crank. I used an 8mm drill bit to lock the camshaft, as for the belt tension you should just be able to twist the belt through 90 degrees on its longest run. Make 100% sure after the new belt is fitted that you can insert both timing pins after turning the engine over with a spanner first befor you even attemp to start it off the key. I have the diagram on autodata but it wont let me save it to upload for you. A peugeot 406 haynes manual shows you everthing with photo's as it is the same engine. Hope this helps you.

Thanks mate, Oh boy is that hole hard to spot. Only in one place under the chassis could I see the 6mm hole. It's a bit late in the day for me to test it out now but I'll have a go tomorrow and let you know how I get on. B)

One Brucey Bonus that came of all this work is that I might have found where the vibration on acceleration is from. Not only was the crank pulley floating about like it didn't belong to the car but the R/H vertical rubber engine mount and the attached torsion arm had both gone as well. :rolleyes:

[Old Mosher]

Thanks again Woody, all back together and running oh so smooth.

I made a tool to look the crank via the 6mm hole. Just a 6mm by 30cm round bar bent at around 8cm to 90 degree then just use a long stretchy spring to wrap around the turbo pipe and back to hold it in place. The cam looking pin was a long shanked cap head bolt with the thred cut off.

I used your method for getting the belt tension backed up by another I found on here where you can just about get the idled roller to slip round under the stationary belt. Just for peace of mind I got a mechanic friend to check it and he said it was spot on. B)