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Posted

Hi, I picked up a '97 R reg Xantia LX with 188,000 miles on the clock a few days ago, a few questions for you all.

 

Firstly, security-wise this car has an alarm and keypad immobiliser. Is is normal for the alarm to be ultra sensitive? As I was walking away from it the other day a Mini Cooper drove past and set it off...I've never had an alarm on any of my cars so this is a bit new to me!

The immobiliser keypad looks as if it is been bypassed or unplugged as no lights ever come on it according to this thread:

http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citro...pad+immobiliser

I've got the code for it, and it would be good to put it back into use, is there something I should be doing to activate it? Should there be any lights coming on?

 

She's had 2 new front spheres done a couple of months back but the car feels really solid on the suspension on our bumpy roads and after looking around on the forums I would be right in saying that I need 2 new rear spheres?

 

As far as I know, the car is still running on its original hydraulic pump. I've looked around and it appears that if this one decides to stop working I've lost my steering, breaks and suspension which I am a little worried about, so is there any known way of checking this before it does happen?

I take it also that the accumulator sphere is the 'emergency backup' for the whole system - how will I know when this is being used?

 

Anything else I should be looking at for a high milage car like this?

 

Thanks in advance!

Take care

Posted

hi there.

 

i have a sx 2.0i auto 98. my alarm is sensitive too, (lightest bit of wind and it goes off.) i found that if you turn the sensors off. then it doesnt go off, but it is still armed for doors, bonnet and boot, and if someone trys to tamper with it too. i hope this helps you.

 

Zoe

Posted

hi there.

 

i have a sx 2.0i auto 98. my alarm is sensitive too, (lightest bit of wind and it goes off.) i found that if you turn the sensors off. then it doesnt go off, but it is still armed for doors, bonnet and boot, and if someone trys to tamper with it too. i hope this helps you.

 

Zoe

Guest Colin Hunter
Posted

Hi There.Yes, it's highly likely that the rear spheres are well past their best. Changing out one end generally highlights the poor condition of the other end!

 

Regarding the pump, you are correct in thinking that it supplies all the services, Suspension, brakes and steering. However pump failure is not generally immediate and catastrophic.

 

The first thing that will be noticable will be that the red "Stop" light will take some time to extinguish on first start up is the morning although this could also be down to fouled LHM filters. If they are known to be clean and the light is still sluggish then suspect the pump. Also if the car takes a long time to rise after being lowered with the height control.

 

Another symptom which will indicate failure is your steering going heavy and light again as you turn the wheel.

 

Don't worry about suddenly not having brakes if the pump does fail or the engine stops for some reason. There will be sufficient reserve in the accumulator (The sphere on the front of the engine) to stop the car safely. It is always "used" as it pumps up to capacity every time the engine is started. The brakes will also use fluid stored in the suspension system so you have a good backup. Ever tried braking a "Normal" servo assisted car with the engine off once the vaccuum has been depleted? You'll have much more backup brake power in your Xantia. However, the power steering dies immediately the engine stops.

 

If you are unsure of the condition of the accumulator sphere it may be a good idea to change it too. It not only stores hydraulic pressure but acts as a buffer on the system. If it has gone you will hear a rapid clicking from the regulator on the front of the engine which it is attached to. This can cause rapid fluctuations in pressure which can lead to failure in other components.

 

Regarding the Keypad immobiliser, it's up to you. Diesel cars often have the immobiliser disconnected after the engine has been started. This then allows the engine to be started without having to key in the number. I'm not sure if it can be done on Petrols. If you are CERTAIN you have the correct code you will be able to re-connect it and start using it again. But you will very soon regret it as I found it a complete PAIN in the posterior on the one I had. The number has to be entered EVERY TIME the engine is started. Also ask yourself if anybody is going to pinch an old Xantia withh 188K up? As I say. Your choice!

 

Cheers. Hope this helps. :huh:

Posted

Cheers Colin and Zoe

After much thinking I think it might be for the best to leave the immobiliser!

Going in to get new spheres from my local branch of GSF, the oil also looks a bit too black for comfort so might give that a change.

While im in there I might pick up some LHM, filters etc...and give the system a good clean out. How often should the LHM be changed and how many litres should I pick up?

 

Zoe, how do I go about turning the sensors off?

Guest Colin Hunter
Posted

The 1.9 XUD is an indirect injection engine and such types are very "Dirty". You can change the oil and as soon as you start the engine it's black! My HDi takes about 2000 miles before the oil even colours up! The oil change interval is 6000 miles but I used to change my oil at 3000 and both oil and filter again at 6000 or 3 months & 6 months whichever came first. Regular oil changes are imperitave, especially on an engine of advanced miles. A good quality 15W/40 mineral base oil will be good enough for the XUD. If there are any commercial oil suppliers in your area you may save money by buying your oil in 20 or 25 litre drums.

 

The LHM filters are in the lid of the tank and can be accessed by unclipping all the pipes from the side of the tank then rolling out the lid with the pipes still attached. It's quite awkward. The filters can be cleaned in petrol (or thinners) and blown out with air (if you can) before replacing them. While you have the lid off it's reasonably easy to remove the tank, empty it and clean it out. Don't worry about the lhm that's in the system unless you're unsure when it was last changed. There are flushing products you can add to the system before changing the lhm if you want a good "cleanout" There will be instructions on the bottle for you to follow. I have never used it myself as my Xantia is a relative youngster at only 9 years and 74,000! A couple of litres will be enough to replenish the tank. 3 at most. A bit more if you want to go to the trouble of flushing through brake lines by bleeding through. The LHM will be good for 4 or 5 years. The filters should be cleaned yearly. The level is set by putting the car to full height and filling until the little disc is between the lines on the level indicator.

 

The sensors can be disabled by pushing a button on the dash which is near the key before exiting and locking up. It has a symbol on it which looks like sound coming from a source if you follow me. The alarm in its entirety can be bypassed by locking the car with the key rather than the "Plip". The alarm will reset to default the next time you exit and lock up in the normal way.

 

Cheers. Happy tinkering! :)

Posted

hi

 

On there right side of the stearing wheel you should have 2 or 3 buttons, the one nearest the window will lock the back windows, and the next one will disarm the sensors. you will need to hold it for a few minutes. and the alarm LED will come on. also you need to have the key in, and the battery light on the dash on. and the need to do thid every time. i know its a pain in the backside.

Posted

Evening all,

There is one other option for the alarm and that is to silence it, by turning the siren off under the bonnet. Lift the bonnet, look at the nearside back of the engine bay and you will find a small flap. Lift this and you will see a switch. Insert your key and turn, thiswill only silence the alarm, it will not stop the lights from flashing.

Hope this helps.

Posted

Cheers everyone!

I've picked up some rear spheres from my local GSF (and a couple of bottles of Total LHM just in case), going to fit them according to my newly acquired Haynes manual and the instructions posted by Colin.

Got the alarm sorted too now - what an invaluble resource this forum is :(

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