New Rear Discs

[flitwick]

Checked the rear discs on my car after a few growley noises from the rear of the car found that the discs ar warped any idea how easy or hard it is to replace these bits.Would normaly leave these to a garage but sort of£'s so must diy :blink:

[Guest Colin Hunter]

Hi Flitwick!

 

Your rear discs & pads shouldn't be any harder to change than any discs/pads which incorporate a handbrake. They are the same as on a Peugeot 307 and are available from Ebay for £22.95 on this link. That's for the discs AND Pads!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CITROEN-C2-C3-1-4-1-...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

I got a set for my mate for his 307 estate as he has no account of his own. He told me the quality was good and for the price unbeatable!

 

To do the job you will first have to jack up and support the car and remove the wheel. The calliper will then have to be removed and the old pads taken out. Hang up the calliper to avoid straining the brake hose. There may be a seperate pad carrier to remove before the disc can come off. The discs will have countersunk screws holding them onto the hub. Undo those and they should come off OK. If they are stuck, a clout with a mallet will free them. If your car has ABS, take care if it's the type that uses a magnetised bearing for the sensing rather than a reluctor (toothed) ring. I believe it is possible to demagnetise the bearing by hitting the disc with a steel headed hammer and so render the ABS sensing defunct. The only repair then is a new bearing. Take care if you see no toothed ring.

 

I have no actual experience of the setup on a C3 but I would imagine that seeing as how the handbrake operates on the rear discs, the calliper pistons will need to be wound back, rather than just pressed in. You can get a tool for this job, but if it's anything like any other handbrake type calliper you should be able to do it with a piece of square section metal. I used an old square file last time I did my Xantia. Make sure there's enough room in the reservoir for the displaced fluid, or alternatively, the bleed nipple can be loosened a little and a peice of washer hose used to catch the fluid is a tin or jar. If you do this, the brakes MAY Need to be bled afterwards.

 

Clean everything up and reassemble, putting a little "coppaslip" between the disc and the hub and ensuring that the discs run true. Make sure that the new pads can move freely, and put a little smear of "Coppaslip" or similar high temp grease on the mating surfaces to help eliminate squeal. There may be a small dimple on the pad which goes against the piston which will have to mate with a slot in the calliper piston when it goes back together. There will be torque setings quoted for the bolts, but most people will do them up tightly enough without.

 

Make sure you have all the relevant tools before you start. Most cars these days will use Torx (Star point socket) headed bolts on the callipers so you'll need a set of those to fit your socket set if you don't already have them.

 

Cheers Hope this hasn't put you off having a go! :blink:

[flitwick]

Hi Flitwick!

 

Your rear discs & pads shouldn't be any harder to change than any discs/pads which incorporate a handbrake. They are the same as on a Peugeot 307 and are available from Ebay for £22.95 on this link. That's for the discs AND Pads!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CITROEN-C2-C3-1-4-1-...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

I got a set for my mate for his 307 estate as he has no account of his own. He told me the quality was good and for the price unbeatable!

 

To do the job you will first have to jack up and support the car and remove the wheel. The calliper will then have to be removed and the old pads taken out. Hang up the calliper to avoid straining the brake hose. There may be a seperate pad carrier to remove before the disc can come off. The discs will have countersunk screws holding them onto the hub. Undo those and they should come off OK. If they are stuck, a clout with a mallet will free them. If your car has ABS, take care if it's the type that uses a magnetised bearing for the sensing rather than a reluctor (toothed) ring. I believe it is possible to demagnetise the bearing by hitting the disc with a steel headed hammer and so render the ABS sensing defunct. The only repair then is a new bearing. Take care if you see no toothed ring.

 

I have no actual experience of the setup on a C3 but I would imagine that seeing as how the handbrake operates on the rear discs, the calliper pistons will need to be wound back, rather than just pressed in. You can get a tool for this job, but if it's anything like any other handbrake type calliper you should be able to do it with a piece of square section metal. I used an old square file last time I did my Xantia. Make sure there's enough room in the reservoir for the displaced fluid, or alternatively, the bleed nipple can be loosened a little and a peice of washer hose used to catch the fluid is a tin or jar. If you do this, the brakes MAY Need to be bled afterwards.

 

Clean everything up and reassemble, putting a little "coppaslip" between the disc and the hub and ensuring that the discs run true. Make sure that the new pads can move freely, and put a little smear of "Coppaslip" or similar high temp grease on the mating surfaces to help eliminate squeal. There may be a small dimple on the pad which goes against the piston which will have to mate with a slot in the calliper piston when it goes back together. There will be torque setings quoted for the bolts, but most people will do them up tightly enough without.

 

Make sure you have all the relevant tools before you start. Most cars these days will use Torx (Star point socket) headed bolts on the callipers so you'll need a set of those to fit your socket set if you don't already have them.

 

Cheers Hope this hasn't put you off having a go! :unsure:

Thats where i got my discs and pads from sound good to me aparntly you have to clap the brake line and bleed the line off into a jar while turning the piston back into the caliper.I have a rubber mallet so will use that to knock the discs off Kit on ebays fine but no pins or shims in the pack

[Guest Colin Hunter]

Hi Again!

 

If you don't have a brake hose clamp, don't use "Mole" grips or similar as it is possible to damage the hose walls with the jaws. If you dont have a proper clamp you can make one with two bits of dowelling or similar (Broom handles) (Or Fork handles as in the two Ronnies!) Drill holes through them and put them over the hose and clamp them together with screws & nuts.

 

If you look at the pads they should have two little springs on them. these help to locate them and stop them from rattling round. I've never done the back brakes on a C3 but I can't remember my mate saying anything about pins on his 307. The shims (anti squeal?) are usually bonded to the back of the pad these days. I can't remember the last time I had to put shims & pins in a disc brake! I think it was a V reg (with the V AFTER the number) VW POLO!

 

Cheers. Happy tinkering. :unsure: