Chrisc5v6

hi there looking through I now have this problem ,local garages are rejecting as a no can do . I got an estimate from a citroen dealer it was £120 to do the job and £160 for the pipe . How much did you end up paying?

When I first got the car ,when I put on the a/c and it stunk to high heaven .i replaced the filter behind the air blower ,not an easy job ,requires a certain amount of brute force ,after that it smelt neutral.if I knew where the diesel filter was I would have a go . Job for tomorrow find out where that is .

Good morning. I always like to do my own servicing where i can with regard to oil and filter changes. Never done it before on this car C5 estate V6. I ran the car up some METAL ramps making sure it was all correctly balanced and even and stable. placed 2 house bricks behind the back wheels added safety. Crawled underneath remove about 10 snap screws and removed the bottom cardboard /plastic cover easier than it looks. Removed the sump plug and drained the oil into an old paint bucket sufficient capacity as the v6 has over 6 litres of oil in it. Left it to drain for some time started looking for the oil filter. Never found the oil filter but identified a few other items and visually looked around. Replaced the sump plug filled the engine with 6 litres of new oil from the top. replaced the bottom cover. Removed the car from the ramps gently,so has not to bump the ramps. Removed the engine top cover and there smack bang in the middle of the engine was the oil filter inverted and unless I had a 32mm socket it wasn't coming out . I bought of ebay a set of large sockets including the size I needed for £10 all chromed up arrived in 2 days. Removed the oil filter replaced the rubber seal and new filter tightened it up with the new socket . You have to be a bit careful when doing it as there are multi lines everywhere which may need gently moving out the way. Removed 4 screws on the air filter and replaced the air filter, easy. Total cost about £60 and not more than 2 hrs work. I also go round and spray just about everything with WD 40 especially electrical sockets and such.

Well I bit the bullet and disconnected the battery and put a charger on it with a meter to tell what was going on, the battery started at 2.5 amps and fell away to 1.8 in an hours charge. After the hour I put it back and everything seemed ok.... apart from the door locking which stayed the same. Which is ..... with all doors shut... no auto locking with the tail gate open auto locking with 30 secs it would seem that the only thing that was affected by the disconnect was the clock, the radio still worked and more importantly so did the car, In the coming months I may well save up the £65 and buy a new battery.

yes I have printed it out so I can follow step by step I will give it a go next week maybe Monday, thanks again nothing ventured nothing gained if it aint broke don't fix it he who dares wins Paul how many posts before I can add an icon picture

I keep meaning to watch one of those revive any battery videos but there full of such padding I get bored with it the bit you want to hear is right at the end.why pad it with such dross Has. Anyone actually got to the end of one But I think all its to tell you is put Epsom salts in there to revive your battery But I've found over the years distilled wAter works fine

I used a multimeter on the battery in the rear and I have a plug in one for the cigarette lighter plug that gives a readout as I'm driving The battery fitted to my car is on the small size for such a large size ,I'm assured its correct for the car. I don't use my car in the week so it sits all week until Saturday when it starts first time even in the winter. Now battery manufacturers say that a sealed battery dosnt need any maintenance ,but that isn't true is it battery manufactures as the electrolyte evaporates and part of the plates become uncovered and then a battery doesn't perform very well .if you are able get the plugs out you can top up the electrolyte and fill up with distilled water and a good charge and it will last a little longer . So I shall bite the bullet and take it out and check it and apply the above Else I could dig in my pocket and buy one for £85 locally. What I don't know is what will I do to any settings in the car if any . Or will t,here be a complete reset and miraculously all faults vanish. Yes I believe in fairies.

The voltage first thing this morning was 12.03 volts. Once started it went to 14.06 volts and no the tail lift dosnt work with the engine running. I checked all the wires leaving the door they appear to be intact I need to do some comprehension on a total reset and what happens when I disconnect the battery for a long time.

I bought 2 fuses and sat there looking at them so a complete change of plan I went out and fitted the fuse Disconnected the battery and changed the fuse not so easy with the battery in position but accheivable . And now the 12v socket works as it should and the offending socket from the cheap shop is long gone. However I did rather think that there was a connection between the fuse and the tailgate raise and lower there is not as that still dosnt work . Back to the manual . regard the auto locking with the tail gate open very strange indeed with the tailgate open the auto locks works within 30 secs with the tail gate shut the auto doesn't work ever.

You may well be correct as that's why the doors lock as they think the tailgate is shut and its not ,next job. Paul The fuses seem to be readily available. I was going to buy a new a battery on my three year anniversary so I will change it when I get a new battery As you point out it could be well old I wasn't going to mention the wires as the wire colour to the fuse is blue and not the expected pink so it must go through something else.(Hey ho) The fuse blew because I blew it with a crap extension socket from a cheap shop. (idiot, still I now know a bit about the car )

its this one

The device behind the left headlight on the wing wall is "Relay 3 protection switch unit BCP3". I have just been out and checked the battery fuses and the left hand little one is open circuit . I firmly belief its the fuse I have taken all this time to identify and locate. now I have to find another one !! err its orange, err its 30 amp(not 25 amp as listed), err its held in by nuts, err its on the battery............ . ........................................

This info is taken from the 2010 handbook and not my one as its not listed in my one notice the fuse number starts at F6 Fuse N° Rating Function F6 25 A Rear 12 V socket (max power: 100 W) F7 15 A Foglamps F8 20 A Additional burner (Diesel) F9 30 A Electric parking brake This is the diagram taken from citroen online manuals which runs under windows xp you have to have a virtual window and its not easy to cut and paste Citroen Service Electrical drawing for diagnosis and repair (SEDRE)4.6.0 It cost me £9.99 to download .Paul is this the same as what you mention Cp05 is the rear 12v socket Famous last words I conclude that this now relates to the fuses on top of the battery which equals 4 off . But you cant get your head in enough to read if they have any numbers . Paul I disconnected the battery for 10 mins and no change (I didn't follow your example but will do today as its not raining) I am wondering does my radio have a code that is lost after x amount of time as I do not have a code. In the 2 times I have disconnected the battery for short times the radio was ok.

And I think I have now found BFDB exactly where it should be on top of the battery but the fuses are a different type to usual these are held in by nuts. There would appear to be 4 in there. its started raining so I have had to come in

In place of the DFDB box as shown above I have a differentnt looking gadget in apperance opening it up shows this