BarbsC1

here we go again pin back your ears and listen lay on your back and look at the underside of the silencer either side of the silencer there should be 3 large spot welds making a total of 6 if there is not you are entitled to a silencer change, if you want I will e mail the paperwork that states this

here we go again pin back your ears and listen lay on your back and look at the underside of the silencer either side of the silencer there should be 3 large spot welds along the length of it making a total of 6 if there is not 6 spot welds you are entitled to a silencer change, if you want I will e mail the paperwork that states this

The genuine sill protectors are not really big enough to fully protect the sill it is probably cheaper to source some plastic film and put it over the sill

Go and get a life it's a great car there is already 3 month waiting lists for this car so it can't be all bad

Well seeing you haven't had any speeding tickets upto now believe what your car is telling you, remember the speedo has a hard wire link between the gearbox and speedo I experienced a similar scenario with one of my cars the easiest way to check this is get someone to follow you and toot the horn or flash the lights at you when they reach an agreed speed if you are both doing the same speed happy days 2 cars surely can't be wrong

It is not a known fault the very first C1's used to stop showing the speed on the speedo because the Engine Ecu was being back spiked by the ABS Block though, hubby is a Citroen tech, but unfortunately having a mass produced ECU rogue ones turn up and spoil the enjoyment of owning a vehicle, I hope it gets sorted for you and doesn't spoil the pleasure of owning a C1, I have one and love mine

which sensor did they replace???? there is two temperature sensors on the 1.4 the green one which is on the thermostat housing is easily visible and normally incorrectly replaced is for the Engine ecu and the blue one which is on the bottom end of the head close to a gearbox bell housing bolt is for the temperature gauge , also it is known that the cooling fan motors sieze too do they work????

Cam Shaft pulley hole approx 16mm headed bolt hole will peg the camshaft still, and on the front side of the engine you will see a hole that a 10mm headed bolt will go into that will peg the crank from turning, the bolt will locate into the back of the flywheel and I have found although it is not an exact fit a quarter drive ratchet will turn the tensioner if you are worried about how much tension to apply check how much tension is on the old belt before removing it and fit the new one a bit tighter you should be able to twist the belt a quarter of a turn without straining it when tensioned but no more than that

Perhaps you should get a job working for the Sun newspaper they have been known for writing a few tall stories lol Nice to hear you like your car though

The adapter should cure the problem with no reprogramming

If the Alarm is going off straight after arming it that is normal because when the door is first shut the system is self checking if u Blip the car within 2 seconds of slamming the door it will always go off....... if this is not the case with yours it maybe more than likely to be the ultrasonic sensors

Hubby totally agrees with your explanation of current draw diagnosis as it is the easiest and fastest way of finding what is causing the drain

Disconnect and reconnect each under seat connector with the ignition off, if the light is still on after switching the ignition back on, it is then probably the steering wheel slip ring connection at fault

There will be no need to Threaten your dealer by saying "I will phone Citroen" all exhausts on Citroen cars and vans are covered by the 3 year warranty, like I have said before the only thing they have to do is put in a prior approval request to Citroen, But that stipulation is Citroen's doing so don't get annoyed by that delay as it is not the dealers fault

The manufacturers recommended labour charge is .9 of an hour the Citroen Dealer my husband works for would do the job for £180 inclusive of parts labour and VAT

There was an issue with head gaskets being a poor supplier, which causes the system to pressurise and water escapes via the header tank cap, it is becoming a common fault it only happens on the earlier versions like yours if you can see semi circular headgasket identification tabs sticiking out on the front of the engine between the head and block, there is two of them which are about 3 to 4 inches in from either end of the gasket, the easiest one to see is timing gear end, you might find you are going to get your biggest bill for this problem so far

My hubby has been a Citroen Tech for more years than I can remember and he says he has never replaced the sinking sphere on any Citroen yet, the easiest check if it needs replacing is run the engine with the suspension on normal height setting and put your foot on the brake if the back end does not go down leave the old one on, and the sinking sphere is not the same as a centre one and not all Xantias have the additional centre supension spheres

Sorry yes or a Citroen dealer make sure they use the correct oil the AL4 gearbox does not use the normal red auto oil a friends car was ruined by a so called auto specialist using the wrong oil

My friend had hers changed for the same reason it only happens on the earlier C1's

The stereo needs an additional loom for the locking problem, known fault when non multiplexed radio fitted ask the dealer for the part number if he looks at you blank tell him to look at the C3 info rapid book C3's suffer with the same fault, the speaker is probably knackered

2 screws hidden behind main interior door handle 30 torx, and the 20 torx along the back edge the rest is clips which are fragile anyway so get some new ones first

I wouldn't bother if I was you because once you have drained and refilled the gearbox, The level then has to be set when the gear oil is at 60 degrees + or - 2 degrees you will have no idea when this is without a diag machine and the level set adjustment is the most critical bit of the oil change situation

This is a known fault not enough spot welds on the silencer, the catalyst is part of the front pipe and is seperate, silencer should be covered by warranty all the dealer must do is get prior approval

Garage job only I am afraid as the checking the Level is quite technical, first you need to put half a litre in the gearbox via a small bung in the top near the gear position switch, and then get the oil temperature inside the gearbox to 60 degrees celcius then remove the smallest bung underneath the gearbox, now you might ask smaller??? the earlier AL4 gearboxes had a double bung system where the first one was put into the gearbox and had a tube protruding into the gearbox attached to it the smaller one went into the centre of it externally, Now when you remove the smaller centre bung any excessive oil will flow out of the gearbox until it reaches the top of the protruding tube, you need to see a slight trickle of oil and Job done put the bung back in, the only problem with all this is how do u know when the oil is 60 degrees which is the critical bit to checking the level. But if I were you I would remove the oil cooler and see how much muck and possibly fragments is inside it if there is alot it'll need more than a top up to cure your fault