TurboSlag

I like Citroen, having previously owned an XM and a Xantia, and hankered after a C1 - small, cheap, low running costs, and pretty reliable. Alas, for the same money I got it's cousin, the Peugeot 107, but chock full of kit the C1 at the same price lacked (body coloured door mirrors & handles, rev counter, rear head rests, electric windows, central locking etc).

Kenwood KFC-1069S. Check ebay cos they often go cheap (mine were £11), cos retail they can be £30-£40. Use pliers to snap off the mounting tabs with the round holes, leaving the 2 tabs with the elongated holdes. Sounds nasty, but the mounting tabson these speakers are serrated and designed so the unwanted ones can be removed. With that done, they drop in as if Mr Citroen had intend it that way and the 2 x 10mm headed mounting screws line up perfectly. You'll need to cut off the Citroen connectors and solder or crimp on about a foot of the Kenwood speaker wire with the terminals. Attach the +ve side of the new wire to the darker coloured cable on the car. The original grilles then pop on neatly over the top. Once doe it makes a BIG improvement to sound quality.

Easy - I fitted 10cm Kenwoods which drop straight in as if PSA had intended it that way. Not many speakers fit straight in, and a few fit with mods to the grille (Alpine 4"ers, for example), but most have too deep or bulky a basket to go.

Yeah, then show us the plots. I'm very interested, but want to see the curves. conventional aftermarket exhausts on their own often (but NOT always) give little and usually shift the area around under the graph rather than a NET increase. I'm not disbelieving you, but we've heard it before so many times (though your company has a good rep :lol: ) and your numbers are very good, so show us the plots (before and after, same day if possible to avoid atmospheric abberation) and you've got one very interested punter. I'm a bit anal about gas flow and fluid dynamics, having a masters degree in Celestial Mechanics and minored in hypergolic rocket propulsion systems, though im going back to science rather than engineering for my PhD.

Induction kit, Nitrous oxide (NOS dry kit, modified by myself to run wet with my own fuel circuit and a generic fuel solenoid 133bhp @ 5800 RPM). The Bottle is out and the fogger removed cos its going through the channel tunnel tomorrw and they don't allow compressed gas bottles down there. I only fitted the induction kit to give me somewhere to mount the foger, though the kit did move a lttle power from the top end to the mid range where it's more useful. I'm not risking any more shove - the TTs modded Aygo is running reliably at 139bhp so I don't wish to exceed that. a nice genuinecarbon fibr engine cover tops that off. I don't recall dissing the exhaust - indeed, I said the gain was "remarkable" and if they can slip up a dyno plot to show that it's a genuine increase, and simply not gained at the expense of the power elsewhere, then it's very good indeed. Perhaps the word "remarkable" means something else these days, like 'bad' now means 'good'? As for the res of my car, SP grille, SP arches, genuine Ciroen Sport front springs, 15" alloys (195/50 15), pug XS backbox conversion, pug fron fogs, tints, rev counter, pro colour coded interior, rear interior stripped, 3 point harnesses, OMP pads, Sony head unit, Kenwoods up front, Juice 5.5 inchers in the rear, carbon gear lever shaft, courtesy light on passenger door, sill plates, and my favourite mod of all...the Lotus gearknob - worth 15bhp, easy :lol: Idoes it maintain the cat and is it all legal noise wise? If the answer is yes, I might be interested. What are the prices for a full or rear system?

Telling people to buy the Aygo over the C1 if you want the "legendary Toyota reliability" is laughable though, when the Aygo is not made by Toyota, and is made on the same line by the same people as the C1. You gotta admit, that's worth a grin. Mind you, Clarkson also erroneously tells everyone the Morgans have a wooden chassis, when they don't and never have (steel chassis,with an ash frame to support the bodywork). Yeah, Willaim Dullard was boring as hell! Jezza...Entertainer - hell yes. Even remotely well informed serious motoring pundit - definitly not.

No, wasn't me chum! My old fellers a specialist engineering financier and does a lot of work for PSA financing their operations, so I get a lot of the gen from him.

2 problems there Mr Clarkson... Other than the floorpan and internal monocoque, the Aygo shares no body panels with its sibling. Even some of the glass (rear quartes and tailgate) are different. The cars are manufactured by TCPA, an independent organisation, created as a joint venture between PSA and Toyota. As such, the vehicles are neither PSA or Toyota manufactured products, and are all subject to exactly the same manufacturing tolerences and quality control. Nice to see Jezza hasn't changed - he's an entertainer, not a serious motoring journo.

Only the 1.6 HDi now has the variable turbo intake. The version of the 1.4 with that feature ceased producation on late 2005 as it could not be engineered to meet the latest round of Euro emissions regs.

I've had 2 now and that's not really the case. The cheapest offical RRP for a C1 is £7395 for the poverty spec model. Cheapest offical RRP for a 107 is currently £6150, and thats for a fairly high spec special edition with uprated stereo and subwoofer. Dealer discounting is a different matter, and you'll get both for comfortably under £6k if you're canny, but much as I preferred the C1s nose (and thats a personal quirk) the 107s thus discounted were virtually identially priced for much more kit. Money talks. The only time the C1 really scores price wise is when Citroen run one of their cashback offers.

I actually wanted a C1 as I think they look nicer, but for £70 more I got rev counter, colour coded wing mirrors and door handles, and rear headrests on the 107, so it was a simple economic decision. That could be why the 107 outsells the C1 more than 3 to 1, and I can't figure why PSA have 2 of their own cars competing against one another in exactly the same market segment??? The 107oc (www.107oc.com), for which I am a moderator and events co-ordinator, welcomes C1s and Aygos with equal verve, in simple recognition of the fact that they are all essentially the same machine.

...unless you choose a red 107, in which case the rearlight clusters are most excellent (and highly prized by the drivers of red C1s too!)

To attract the older cars back into the dealer servicing network. It's not a loss leader as such, though these deals will run the minimum of profit for the dealers, but they then make their jam by identifying additional work that the older cars will often need.

the c1, 107 and Aygo are all produced ont eh same line. Once the programmed prodution for one model ends, the line stops and while it's being retooled for the next model the opportunity is sued for minor running maintenance. The Peugeot ordering system would seem to be better - within hours of ordering you'll be given a provisional delivery date, and the dealer is even able to check the system to see where in Europe your car is as it is transported to the UK, and gave me daily updates in this regard. There are still quite a few 107s swilling about in the dealer chains, some at very good prices (£6150 for a Kiss, with uprated Clarion stereo and subwoofer) so it's not worth waiting til the C1 comes back on stream.

you need you bumps feeling if you're paying that! First service on my old 107 (had a back injury, so couldn't do it myself) was £60 at an independent pug specialist, using genuine parts and the service completed exactly as per the ICME schedule. On my current 107 the service cost £22 in aprts,and I did it myself (ex technician). Shop about ruthlessly, and don't be afraid to try Peugeot or even Toyota dealers or independent specialists. Your 2nd service is 1.5hrs labour, + parts, + VAT, so £220 is about right if you're mad enough to pay main dealer prices for it. Having owned 5 cars in 1.5 years, I can confirm that C1/107 servicing is no more expensive than any other small car, which is good going as apart from a difference of one spark plug (which is only changed on the 'C' service anyway), there is exactly as much to mechanically change, check or adjust on a C1 as there is on any other conventional car, so no inherent reason why it should be any cheaper.

I got 195/50 15s. The biggest handling problem (not a major issue, cos with some proper rubber they behave very well indeed) once the wheels are on is an under damped and under sprung front end, and lowering doesn't cure that. Remember, these cars have only around 2/3 the suspension stroke of a more conventionally sized car, such as a Focus, and using up 30-35mm of that is a very big deal. The other problem you'll encounter is that if you drop below 30mm the driveshafts will be bent in the negative plane and it's going to cause CV/driveshaft wear and failure. There is a Citroen Sport spring kit available which maintains standard ride height and is firmer, but it's ultra rare and(I think) is only officially available on the continent. By brother in law runs his own firm, working as a suspension engineer modifying tuned Jags, and he's liaising with one of his suppliers to get a set of fronts custom wound for me. It's gonna have to wait til I can live without the car for 3 or 4 days while they take the front struts off and do their measuring. When it' done though, they'll be able to make more for anyone that wants them. I'd do your wheels first, and see how you like it cos they'll bring a big improvement on their own. The biggest handling limitationon the standard car is those skinny 155s that deform and tuck under when you're trying to have fun. Some people claim it's 'body roll' but trust me, it ain't, its the crappy tyre size.

How much you thinking of lowering it, and whats the spring rate of the new coils compared to the old? The questions a bit too open without some more background info. 7inchers might cause you problems even before lowering. I got 6.5" 15s and they kiss the inner arch ever so slightly on one side on full lock, and I can't see a phatter rim being anything but worse.

If it's anything like the 107 kit, it's a snap, albeit with some bodywork cutting required to the front bumper. Do you have a pic of the kit, and what the lights should look like when mounted?

Did my 1st 107s service myself at 10k and the oil was still relatively sweet and clean. Any sooner is just a waste. The Toyota production tolerances on that little engine are spot on.

How much for the supercharger (if you do it) and what improvements will it offer over the tried and tested TTS supercharger conversion? Any photos or details of the exhaust? 9% is remarkable, nearly 15% increase. I'm just in the finishing stages of fitting nitrous to mine, so i'll let you know how that goes.

Why not? It's actually closed for 61/2 weeks this year, so apart from 6.5 weeks of production to catch up on where people all over Europe will still be placing orders for 107/C1/Aygos, there are the orders palced immediately beforehand to fill too. When things are running normally, they're pretty quick. Had my 107 in 10 days flat - cheaper than the C1 and a higher spec, so I was doubly happy.

But conversely, if they didn't do the line maintenance and upgrades then the product would not evolve with new meterials and upgrades to known faults. Quality control and the standard of the finished product would then suffer, and we'd be moaning about that instead.

Here's a keen deal... http://www.peugeot.co.uk/finance/offers/re...;Section=Retail Thats cheaper than the official RRP of the base C1, yet is a special edition that comes with an upgrade Clarion stereo and subwoofer. They're a stock item too, as they are a pre-manufactured limited run (not made to ordr like the normal C1/107). Im also informed that the effeminate 'Kiss' stickers are fitted at PDI, so if you don't want those you can ask the dealers to elave them off. Call the Shrum and get one chum ;)

Then you're *probably* ok. After reading your question I checked mine this morning and it does make a knocking noise, so you're likely ok, but worth mentioning it to them next time it goe in for a service.

This is a little worrisome... Take her for a spin on a quiet road. Rev her hard, close to the redline in 2nd and 3rd as you accelerate in each gear. If you can feel a rough vibration through the clutch pedal as you change gear (usually as you lift the clutch pedal back up to re-engage drive) then get her in the the dealers. There's an issue with someC1/107s where the clutch release bearing corrodes due to faulty case hardening, and then slowly breaks up and (ultimately) fails.