raveydavey

The chilled glovebox is great. And despite what the brochures say, every model with A/C has one (I think...) On a hot day it means you can keep a few cans or small bottles of pop / water, whatever in the lower glovebox and they remain lovely and cold providing you have the A/C on, obviously. They also stay cool for ages, so if you return to a hot car you can have a cool drink waiting for you. To check if you've got this wonderful feature, feel on the "roof" of the lower glovebox - there should be a circular disk. Just turn this until you feel the air coming out. On the subject of "auto" rain sensing wipers, don't you actually have to turn them on first? I know you do on Peugeots...

I can't help with the cutting out, but as for "Rear suspension squeaking" that is due to different atmospheric conditions here and in France. You see the car is a French vehicle so is set up for driving in France. The atmospherics are different over here which is what causes the squeaking. The phrase that pays : "They all do that" was then quoted. At least that is what the dealer told me when I mentioned it at the first service...did I mention I don't use that dealer any more? I would suggest that you consider getting Citroen involved, but as I'm still awaiting a call back from December 2006 from customer services about a safety related issue, I probably wouldn't bother. Seriously your options are try another dealer if there is one locally to you, or consider getting an independent engineers report. However, intermittent faults can be very difficult to diagnose. Did the dealer say what was actually at fault with the car, or had they simply replaced what the computer told them was to blame?

The short answer is yes. There is a thread about this very subject on the Technical section, spookily enough!

Lots of cobblers and key cutters (Mr Minute, Timpsons, etc) advertise that they now can provide transponder equipped keys, although I don't know how accurate these claims are.

If it starts flashing, you are overdue a service. :blink:

I've got a 2003/03 1.4HDi 8v Desire and I've noticed the same when the external temperature is low. It's nearly 5-years old though and been like that from new - it doesn't seem to be causing any problems. Through the first winter the heating never got properly "hot" (my commute is 25 miles each way, part local roads, part A-road, part M-way) so plenty of time to get up to temperature. The dealer dismissed it as "they are all like that" but it then sorted itself out and has been fine since! In fact the only issue I've had with the coolant lights is when the dealer delivered it back after a service and the red light at the top was flashing. Turns out this indicates the coolant level is low. A top up sorted it, but do they not check these things?

Forgive me asking, but you couldn't be catching the wiper stalk as you get out of the car without noticing could you? A quick tap of the stalk after the ignition is switched off results in what you're experiencing - a second tap returns the wipers to the parked position.

I'd go for the diesel everytime. The 1.1 petrol is a bit gutless, even if you're only driving around town. The diesel has bags of torque, falls into Band B for car tax (£35 for 12 months) and will return 60mpg+ week in week out. It is a world away from the old image of diesels - and don't forget it is so good Ford buy the engine and put it in their cars.... Mine is the first diesel I've owned and I won't go back to petrol now.

I've got an 03 plate HDi Desire and that has the fittings for a moduboard - I bought one second hand and it fits fine. There are just the locators eitherside of the boot and it then folds down onto the ledge against the rear panel, or onto the plastic retainers on the inner quarter trims if you want it out of the way. Just the same as the pic.

I seem to remember it says the first warning light / beep (with the final segment fo the fuel display still lit) is with around 9 litres remaining (approx 2 gallons) in my handbook? I do know that the car has a 9.9 gallon tank and when I have let it run down to the second warning beep (no lights on the fuel display, just the warning light) I have managed to put just over that into the tank (don't forget you'll get a few litres in the filler pipe). I have now pledged not to let the fuel run so low in future!

Can you not simply fold the rear sets down from inside the car and extract whatever is causing the jam through the car?

Oh no!!!!! Just had something very similar happen to me with my '03 plate 1.4HDi Desire. Parked, got out, closed door and pressed "lock" button on fob - nothing. Tried again, still nothing. Tried locking door with key, only the drivers door (the only door with a lock barrel on) would lock. Got back in car, and pressed lock button on dashboard. All doors locked. Tried key again, nothing. Bugger! Drove 2 miles back home to get spare key thinking possibly a flat battery in the fob. Got spare key, nothing. Everything exactly the same. It's nearly lunchtime and it's a bank holiday tomorrow - and I certainly don't want to leave the car unlocked outside my house... Grabbed the manual, established the fuse F16 controls the central locking. Unfortunately I'm not a two year old so there was no way I could reach the fuse....rang my friendly Citroen specialist and got the answering maching, closed for the Christmas period. Called Barkers at South Milford (only Citroen dealer I will use - see my other posts for details). Hurrah - they can't promise to fix it but can have a look at it at half past one if I can get there for then. Try all locks again before setting off, still nothing with either key. Drove to Barkers (15 miles), pulled up in car park and as I got out of the car pressed the fob out of habit - the bloody thing is working again!!!! Tried spare key - that is working too. Tried locking / unlocking half a dozen times, works perfectly....hmmmm!!! Went into the service desk anyway since I was there and we agreed there was little point leaving it with then if it had "fixed itself". They said they'd never had a fault like that before, but reading this thread makes me think it is some sort of fault, although probably on older cars so not perhaps an issue at dealers who tend to deal with the newer vehicles? Any ideas? Must be the car if neither key would work, I'm guessing? Fingers crossed it stays fixed.

Is that so? Well you learn something new every day! Do you mind me asking where you got that info from?

A cheaper option would be to wind the window down, reach out and open the door with the external handle and then wind the window back up. I had a similar problem with the child lock on mine (OSR door) and the dealer replaced the external door handle* under warranty. * - Yes, I know, but that is what they insisted they'd done.

Be aware though that a touch up won't match on a pearl or metallic finish. It's to do with how the paint lies on the panel as it's applied - that's why if you repair a panel of a metallic you have to blend the colour. Any dealer will sell you a touch up kit (as will most accessory shops) which will at least stop any oxidation of the metalwork, although modern steel is galvanised - I've had a scratch on my C3 for over a year now and it's not rusted up (I park in a crappy area of town when I'm at work and got sick of forking out for paintwork). I'd avoid the repair people who come to you at home or work as I've had nothing put bad experiences with them. Depending how deep the scratch is you may be able to get it professionally polished out. Your best bet is a local independent bodyshop, preferably recommended by word of mouth.

The sump plug is hidden behind the engine under tray. Given the low ground clearance I'd imagine it would be a fun job to do on your drive - and never go underneath a car that has been jacked up without some other form of support in place (axle stands, etc)

No idea how you'd get your C3 to run on waste chip fat - or indeed where you'd get suitable quantities of it from. And even if you did you still have to pay duty. Is it worth it, even at £1 a litre? It has been suggested more than once that there is virtually no chance whatsoever of a small car being stopped and having the tank dipped to see if "red" diesel is being used. Of course to do so would be strictly illegal and couldn't be condoned in any way.

You could ask about a loan car, but I'll doubt you'll get one. The only other option would be to rent a car yourself and then try claim the costs back from someone - probably the people who sold you the car in the first place. That wouldn't be a straight forward task if they didn't play ball and could easily end up costing you. You could also check your warranty paperwork and see if they cover you for one?

OK - this isn't ideal, but you can still proceed. You need to politely insist that both the garage who did the repair AND the warranty company give you a full written report detailing exactly what the fault is / was and what work they have carried out to rectify it (even if they only class it as a "temporary" repair). Once you have this you need to get back to Consumers Direct / Citizens Advice and they will advise what you can do from here.

You need to do the following: Get out the warranty paperwork and read it all, especially the small print. This will tell you what is and what is not covered. It's a virtual certainty that YOU will be liable for any costs associated with diagnosing the fault until it is confirmed that the failure is covered under the warranty. It is also entirely possible that the warranty has a limit - it seems your claim limit may be £500 which clearly won't cover these costs. Technically you do not have a "warranty" - the garage sold you "mechanical breakdown insurance" for the car. Insist that the repairing garage give you a full written breakdown of exactly what the fault is that they have diagnosed. Check any paperwork that you have from them too. If you signed a job card (or similar) you may well have entered into a contract to settle any bills, albeit unknowingly from what you have posted. Ask them to explain this and ask for details of their complaints handling procedure. Contact the warranty company. Calmly and politely ask them to explain why they won't cover the repair. Refer to the written diagnosis from the garage if needs be. Ask if the warranty company have inspected the fault, or have they just dealt with the matter over the phone - if so request that they send their engineer to inspect the car and confirm the garage diagnosis. Ask for them to confirm what they have told you in writing. Insist that they include details of their complaints procedures with the written diagnosis. Contact the selling garage. If you bought the car from a trader you have cover under the Sale Of Goods Act (or whatever it's called this week). This puts the onus on the garage to prove that the fault was not present when they sold you the car. Ask them to explain the low warranty claim limit. Remain calm and polite throughout, even if you are seething inside. If you are getting nowhere at this point you may wish to consider getting your own independent engineers report on the car. Do some research. Choose a suitably qualified engineer who has experience in this type of matter and in presenting evidence to court (for that is where you may end up). Do NOT skimp on this - a good engineers report is likely to cost £100+ but could be worth it's weight in gold. Talk with the engineer before and after the inspection - be prepared for the possibility of not liking what he tells you - it is his job to provide you with his honest professional opinion regardless of if it's what you want to hear or not. Advice is available from the Citizens Advice and Trading Standards, or a solicitor if you are rich. If you appoint a lawyer make sure they are familiar with this type of work. Just because a lawyer did a good job on the conveyancing your house or reading Aunt Dotties will does not make them and expert on this field of law. And an expert is what you need! You don't say what sort of garage you bought the car from - I'm guessing it's not a dealership or you wouldn't be at Nationwide for the repair? Be prepared for them to give you the run around, it's a sad state but much of the sales side of the motor trade are like that. Did you buy the car on finance? If you did the finance company are liable for the car as it is on "Hire Purchase" and belongs to them - it doesn't belong to you until you make the final payment. The finance company may well deny this but persist and mention "the ombudsman" (more on this later). The finance company probably do a lot of work with the garage and have a lot more clout that you do - use this to your advantage. If all else fails advise the warranty company and garage you intend taking the case to the ombudsman at the Financial Services Authority (the FSA). This costs you nothing and they will make a legally binding ruling on what is or is not the responsibility of the warranty company and other issues such as (potentially) if you were mis-sold the warranty. I hope things work out for you - if not ask the garage how much they would charge to supply and fit a reconditioned gearbox. This will be substantially cheaper than a new gearbox and may be a solution to get you back on the road - do your own research if necessary. Your local AutoTrader will have adverts in from gearbox reconditioners, so give a few a call to get an idea of cost yourself. Be prepared for a long battle, sadly experience tells me this is probably the way it will go. I don't know the full facts (nor do I want to - sorry), but I've given you honest advice on how you can proceed now. I have a little knowledge in this field but I am not an expert and am offering you this advice in the hope it will point you in the right direction of where you can get professional qualified advice, nothing more. One final piece of advice - stay professional, calm and polite when dealing with people - even if you feel the opposite inside. Be firm by all means but keep emotion out of the situation as much as you can. It will make your case that much harder to resolve if you get peoples backs up. If you don't understand what they tell you ask them to explain what they mean in laymans terms, not technical jargon. People respond better to politeness, so behave in a manner that you would expect to be dealt with if the situation was reversed. Do not resort to being Mr Angry - it may provide a temporary relief to your rising blood pressure but you will regret it later.

Yep, that is fairly standard practice with warranty companies. After all, if they paid to find out what the fault was and it wasn't covered, how many people do you think would re-imburse them? If the fault is covered under the warranty they'll normally pick up the diagnosis bill anyway.

Oh dear. Gently pressed the drivers door electric window switch yesterday morning to clear the condensation off the outside and the bloody switch broke. There is little at 6am to beat feeling the switch flapping about under your finger as the "one shot" action makes the glass vanish downwards into the door. Relatively easily (in theory) fixed by swapping the switch for the passenger side one and raising the window back up. In fact it was a bit of a bugger in the dark with the light of the interior light and a failing maglite (why do the batteries go when you actually need the torch?). To be fair, it was the good lady who undid the clip, her fingers being a bit daintier than mine, and we were sorted and only 10 minutes behind time. Anyway, spoke to the chap at the independent garage where its booked in on Monday for it's 62500 service and he's ordered a new switch (£12.30+vat, quite reasonable I thought). Seems I did exactly what they'd have done if I driven it into them and it isn't the first one they've replaced. Never heard of it before though - anyone else had any faults with them?

The issue with water getting into the headlights is a common one. As you may have seen, there is very little space behind the headlight on a C3 and it can be difficult to refit the bulb holder correctly if a bulb has been changed. Unfortunately if it isn't fitted correctly and you don't get a water tight seal, the headlight fills with water. I had exactly the same scenario with my car after a main dealer replaced a headlight bulb. If you can refit the bulb holder correctly you might save the headlight and be able to dry it out by driving around with the headlight on. Worst case scenario is a new headlight though I'm afraid. If the place you took it to are denying all knowledge then I'm afraid you're stuck with sorting it out yourself. Personally I wouldn't let Kwik Fit top up my screenwash, but that is just my opinion based on my experiences. Sadly even if you have to replace the headlight the costs involved are unlikely to make it worth taking legal action against them - an independent engineers report alone is going to cost you the thick end of £100 to tell you what you now already know. There are a couple of threads on this subject on this baord, including a guide on how to replace a bulb (I think!) so it will be worth you trawling through some of the older posts. Still, it could be worse - to replace headlight bulbs on Renault Scenics and on some Fiesta's, you have to take the front bumper off first....

Any decent aftermarket audio specialist (or failing that, Halfords) should be able to sort you out. All the main speaker manufacturers have ranges of upgrade speakers that fit into the standard apertures in almost every car in production, just ask what they have. That has the added advantage that any thieving scumbags looking through your windows will just see standard factory speaker grilles and not realise you've got anything worth nicking. The likes of Unicar and Toad will even probably offer a mobile fitting service if you want it.

If the fuses are OK and everything else is still working, it could be the actual cigarette lighter that is broken. It's not unknown for them to "burn out" if subject to a heavy load so the spike when it went might have been enough. (A colleague of my dads once burnt out half a dozen lighter sockets by plugging in a travel kettle in his works vehicle, until the firm told him they wouldn't be paying for any more!) What year is your car? Mine is an '03 so has a cigarette lighter and a 12v socket, but I know later models only have the one. If it has two sockets, are they both not working?