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proinnsias

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Everything posted by proinnsias

  1. I posted this elsewhere - but I can't seem to find it easily :unsure: Ah ... here it is Changing headlight bulbs In fairness bulb replacement is fiddly the first time, but after that it's easy enough * Remove the left side plastic cover on the engine, and/or the battery cover * Twist off the backing covers from the headlight unit(s) * Unplug the connector (this is the toughest part) * Fiddle around blindly to undo the spring clip holding the bulb in place (I found it easier to remove the spring entirely, but replacing it was hard * Remove bulb * <haynes mode>Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly</haynes mode> Total time, under 10 mins with good light ... I've done it in the dark in < 15 mins. Hardest part if you get stuck is undoing the little clips holding the engine covers in place smile.gif Hope this helps someone Yes, access is tight (more so on the drivers' side), but there are some wiring looms / hoses that can be unclipped and moved slightly (not disconnected mind !) to help.
  2. Bah, too obvious :) misread "stopped working, working inside ... " (missed the second "working")... Not sure it'd be the Com2000 in that case though, surely the internal tell-tales would be failing too - I've taken one apart, and there's no real rocket science in there ! P
  3. Ouch ! In fairness bulb replacement is fiddly the first time, but after that it's easy enough Remove the left side plastic cover on the engine, and/or the battery cover Twist off the backing covers from the headlight unit(s) Unplug the connector (this is the toughest part) Fiddle around blindly to undo the spring clip holding the bulb in place (I found it easier to remove the spring entirely, but replacing it was hard Remove bulb <haynes mode>Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly</haynes mode> Total time, under 10 mins with good light ... I've done it in the dark in < 15 mins. Hardest part if you get stuck is undoing the little clips holding the engine covers in place :rolleyes: Hope this helps someone Yes, access is tight (more so on the drivers' side), but there are some wiring looms / hoses that can be unclipped and moved slightly (not disconnected mind !) to help.
  4. Let's ask the stupid question - when you say "stopped working" do you mean the switch won't stay on? the little tell-tale light on the dash doesn't blink, and/or you don't hear the tick-tock but the outside light works fine ? It could be something as simple as a 50p bulb gone behind the instrument cluster ! P
  5. Try amazon.fr search for "etai citroen c5" I got http://url.ie/5nf as a result ..
  6. Agreed - worst case it should be a 10min job at the dealers to recode it - but experience says, unless you've had a software upgrade or changed the stereo recently - it'll be a loose connector somewhere.
  7. Yes - it's quite easy really :( Ah - in which case it's even easier ! Flip up the two button surrounds either side of the stereo - a wide flat blade at the bottom should do the trick (wide so as not to damage the trim !) Take off the clips Undo the two Torx T20 screws either side of the stereo Stereo now slides out and can be disconnected (no code required, it's VIN coded to the car) Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. For the whole console / fascia it's a bit trickier. Remove the ashtray and cigar lighter Remove the gearshift gaiter (if present) Pop up the gearshift surround / oddments tray and slide backwards to remove Remove the radio as above There are now two screws at the base of the fascia panel (recessed) Undo these Panel should now unclip all 'round - there are two spring loaded clips up near the vents. Again - Reverse the instructions to put it all back together P
  8. I'm not sure, to be honest, what's on the market - however SatNav aerials will always have this problem. Essentially - the SatNav antenna needs a clear view of the sky, so it can "see" the satellites - enough trees or tall buildings can interfere with satnav reception. One option *might* be to look at the back of the satnav unit to see what aerial connector is used, and see if you can get a good magnetic-mount one from ebay with the same connector and about 4m of cable. Mount it somewhere on the bodywork that's not covered by stuff (on the hatchback, just under the top of the glass of the hatch itself (on the bodywork metal beside the hinges) works reasonably well for me on a 3rd party unit. Feed the wire into the back of the satnav unit and try that ?
  9. Simple answer : Probably :) You will need : - 1 insert from a toilet roll - 1 empty washing up liquid bottle ... Oops ... wrong recipe ! - A <your stereo> to SONY CD Changer connection / translation box - Something like the Dension Ice>Link Plus ipod adaptor (Sony / Generic version) Plug 'em together and watch it just work. It's the business in my C5, so I'd wager it'll work on most cars once you can get an adaptor to emulate a CD Changer. (Connects2 seem like a good source !) P
  10. Wide (and make sure it's wide) flat blade under the two switches either side of the radio. the two surrounds just pop off The screws are Torx (size T20 IIRC) - once you have those out, the radio slides out easily enough. The antenna cable is tight, the two ISO plugs are on the left (looking from the front) as are the CD changer mini-iso cables if they're fitted. Replacement should be trivial enough - however if you're going for a radio from another C5, be aware that you'll need to get it coded to the car's VIN, otherwise you'll get bleeps from the radio every few mins in complaint. (3rd party radios won't have this problem, but you'll need to fit a cage and a replacement surround (as the fascia surrounds won't clip onto the side of the radio fascia as they do with the factory one.) All this is assuming a MkI C5 (2001-2004 model), post 2004 your mileage may vary ! P
  11. Whatever about "exclusive" badging - remember, the vast majority of the extras were at-cost options anyways. To see if a C5 has Xenons from the front - it should be easy, if they're factory fit, it's a legal requirement to have a high-pressure washer system. If the front bumper has two raised square sections visible, that's where the washers pop-up. The car was specced originally with Xenons. (Still not quite proof it still has 'em ... but it's the best indicator you'll see on a photo.) Hope this helps ! P
  12. If it's the CD changer you're updating (the one under the drivers' seat) it should be trivial enough. You'll probably need an adaptor of some flavour to connect to the mini-iso connection at the back of the in-dash stereo (two torx T20 screws under the flaps to the side hold it in). Companies like Autoleads and Connects2 do adaptors last I looked. If it's the stereo unit itself - should again be trivial - connectors are ISO, but you'll lose remote control functions (without an adaptor) and dash-display from the radio.
  13. Might be of interest : Current issue of Car Mechanics mag ( http://www.carmechanicsmag.co.uk/ ) has a section on the C5 being a "Behind Book Bargain" Might be worth the three or four quid for the mag if you're looking at buying anytime soon :) P
  14. You also know that it's varnished Metallic - so it'll be painful to match "just right" barring a professional respray :)
  15. proinnsias

    C5 Speedo

    On the Nokia kit - the wire is Yellow SIO Communications have some help in identifying the mute positions ... just use a test lamp to ID it - http://www.siocommunications.co.uk/Radio-Mutes.html ... one thing to note though is the There is no wire on the C5's ISO loom to attach to a mute, so you're going to have to rig something less elegant .. (A very nice solution is to get a small ISO extender form a local auto factors, and snip the muting wire - add a bullet point to it and the other end to the nokia kit ... voila :) ) Note - if you're talking about taking out the radio (and not hte speedo etc) it's quite easy. Lift the flaps at either side of the stereo (with the switches in 'em) ... they pop off ... undo the two Torx screws holding in the radio, slide out ... Note too that if you're fitting a second-hand speedo, that the mileage displayed will be the greater of that stored on the speedo unit and the BSI - both store the overall mileage, and if they disagree, the higher is registered in both.
  16. As an aside - I used have that problem too - and again child-locks on The easiest workaround I found was the kick-back feature ... I'd walk around the car, throwing something in the boot (or just opening the boot) and "lock" the car by remote with the boot open. Worked every time - the kick-back safety feature unlocked all the doors including the one with the stuck lock ... worth a try ! P
  17. It's quite easy to find out, remembering Peugeot and Citroen are both parts of PSA and share lots of costs .. http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/wshtm...int/paintc2.htm Is probably what you're looking for: Mine's KPKD which reads as : Mauricus Blue / Perlescent Fourth letter is the finish - with the previous three being the colour code itself A - Opaque unvarnished B - varnished non-metallic C - varnished metallic D - pearlescent lacquered Hope this helps (obviously - opening the drivers' door and looking at the sticker is a safer bet !) P
  18. Thanks Randombloke - I did notice those posts - I'm aware Xenon headlights don't need 'beam benders' according to Citroen UK, however I hadn't read anything either direction about normal, plain old H7/H4 headlights ! hertsnminds, Thanks for the tips - cover note / insurance isn't an issue - my insurer covers me for up to 30 days at a stretch outside of Ireland - so that shouldn't be an issue !
  19. All ye of great knowledge ... I'll be bringing the C5 out of the Islands in the coming months to spend some time cruising the highways and byways of France (and perchance other parishes). What do I need in terms of headlight adjustment ? I know, back in the old days of lenses with lines on 'em that we needed beam-deflector stickers of some sort - do they still apply ... are there "special" ones for hte C5, or will a bog-standard set from Halfords do the job ? Thanks P
  20. Thanks KFK, LOL Serious side to the question though ... are estate and hatch versions of the interior the same ? I know some cars' rear-seats are very differently configured between the saloon/hatch version and the estate versions ... and often between saloon and hatch versions. (My guess / hope is PSA are lazy in this regard, and one-size-fits-all !) The other question I suppose, is whether the "new" C5 has a different pattern internally to the "old" one, but again I doubt PSA would be overly bothered with a full redesign coming so soon ... P
  21. Well, it's obvious really, I am mad ! I've been offered the entire interior trim from a 2004 reg Citroen C5 Exclusive estate ... I'm just wondering if it's likely to fit cleanly into my bog-standard 2001 hatchback ... At first glance, it looks like it should - but I'd like to be sure. Door cards etc should be a doddle, although I'll probably have to upgrade the window winders to motors, but that should be easy enoguh ? right ?? What about stuff like electrics in the seats ? so far, it seems my C5 has been wired for everything else I've put in ... so, I'd wager that these aren't likely to be a problem ... airbags are little plugs on the seats, should be easy .. Am I missing something glaringly obvious, is the new model significantly different inside to the old one ?
  22. It's a common enough software glitch ... IME it seems to manifest if I'm parked on a slight slope, or with the wheels turned ... Doesn't do any harm, and gives up after about 30 mins anyway to save the battery ! P
  23. *nod* thought as much ... Since I got the entire locks kit - I might as well go the whole way - and change everything, so one set of keys does the entire job ... presume it's a dealer-only thing and not something involving a mason's handshake with the new keys in the barrel ?
  24. Actually - as an aside ... if I need to change the locks on the car (long story ..) do I need to get the new keys programmed at a citroen dealership, or is it a case of just change all the locks / barrels and all will be well ? Somehow I'm doubtful that PSA would turn down the opportunity to guarantee a few bob for themselves by making it easy !
  25. Urban myth indeed ... The garage key works nicely .. just unlock the deadlocks (try it - leave the plip key in the house, and open the car with the spare :( ) P
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