GreenBlood

It does sound like it has something to do with the suspension pressurising, if the service included topping up the LHS fluid (check your invoice). You should hear the pump for a few seconds when you enter the car - if the lights go out before or immediately on starting I would say you have nothing to worry about. As to why it may have behaved differently after the service, again it depends on whether the LHS lid had been removed, the reservoir is slightly pressurised and removing the lid releases that pressure, it may then take a while for things to return to 'normal'? Cheers Chris

Search function works for me... using Opera browser V11.5 I did a search but can't find your reference to pump damage? Our car is a 2002 HDi and the level sits just below the filler basket - there is a tolerance i.e. max/min level so unless you really overfill I doubt you would have a problem. Cheers Chris

I understand that as the reservoir is slightly pressurised overfilling can cause it to rupture? I've never heard of this actually happening but it is a caution in Citroen documentation. I've not seen any suggestion that overfilling can damage the pump. Cheers Chris

I'd be having a close look at the crackshaft pulley, they can make a real racket when about to fail, this could also explain the loss of power steer, the inner and outer of the crankshaft pulley slips (check by marking through the two parts with a white out pen, start the car and look for movement. Cheers Chris

This is a reply on the aussiefrogs site, the member couldn't post here?? Hi,, I did try to reply on the UK site but !!//?? I do have an air control/ conditioning unit that is out of the car, from a wreck. I can look at some things if you wish. Not interested in selling things so go to David if you wish to do that. It is a very large size!! You would have to dismantle a lot of the dash etc to get it out I would think It is not so easy to see how the air travels through it either, from the outside. The plastic can be moulded to any shape and they seem to have chosen to do something complicated The LHS upper motor seem to be the upper temp control which has a triple flap which rotates in line with the shaft. I think the center flap is cold and the outer flaps on each side are hot. As the shaft turns the center closes and the others open etc. There is a rod connected inside which also operates another internal flap for the cold which is hard to see. The LHS lower motor controls the air to the feet that side. It is the one which fails and this one has a cracked plastic boss. I have repaired this in my own cars unit by the glue method. Works OK. The RHS lower motor does the air to the feet on the drivers side in a similar manner to the other. However it is not close to the heater pipes so it survives OK. There is another different type of motor higher up on the RHS which controls the outside/inside air. It has a plastic gear segment on it which meshes with the segments on the two flap shafts. There are at least three thermistors which plug into various places. These, I guess are providing feedback to the computer. I would do a reset first if I were you pull the battery lead off for a minute ( with everything turned off ), See if that fixes anything. I believe the computer sometimes get its signals mixed and the software cannot sort it out. Note there is some resetting recommended for the windows and the throttle position after this also. Cheers Jaahn Maybe of some help? Cheers Chris

My guess would be that the mixing flap motors 3 and 6 are failing on both sides with passenger side working some of the time? These would control the ratio of hot/ cold air. I would think the distribution flaps control air to footwell/ dash/ windscreen? I doubt you have a problem with temp sensors. From what I have gleaned from an email via the aussiefrog site, the drivers side should be easier to check?? Cheers Chris

Try aussiefrogs again, it should be fixed there, the image tags don't seem to allow me to link to attachments on AF, these links should take you to the images. IMAGE 1 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16511&stc=1&d=1307104147 IMAGE 2 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16512&stc=1&d=1307104147 Cheers Chris

Not sure if images will show, but we'll give this a shot - if not have a look here http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?p=958856#post958856 This is the left hand side (access via the glovebox) The reduction motor for distribution flaps = 2 The reduction motor for mixing flaps = 3 IMAGE 1 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16508&stc=1&d=1307098266 (what are the correct image tags on this board? I used .. not happy } This is the right hand side (access remove the cover under the dash in the RH foot well and the cover that's covering where the steering column goes through and look behind the dash for the motor) The reduction motor for distribution flaps = 4 The reduction motor for mixing flaps = 6 IMAGE 2 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16509&stc=1&d=1307098266 Cheers Chris

We may be talking at cross purposes here, is your car LHD or like the UK and Australian cars RHD? If RHD drive yes, I would agree, but we have to remember this is a Citroen we can't apply common sense :D I'm going to ask for assistance on the Aussie French car forum www.aussiefrogs.com we have a few members that are very knowledgeable and should be able to point you to which motor is the culprit ;) Cheers Chris

You're doing a great job talking to yourself :D I think you have pretty well diagnosed your problem, as I understnd it, there are two flap motors, the upper motor controls the passenger side (RHD) and the lower controls the driver side. You seem to have a failure of the lower which is unusual. Access is via the glovebox, I've not done this job myself, apparently it's a bit of an exercise, you will break clips and lose some skin - but several on here have had success. It may be worth checking with Citroen, I have heard an inexpesive kit to repair the drive cog on the motor/flap control (rather than replace the whole unit). Keep us posted, pics would be appreciated ;) Cheers Chris

Yes you're on the right track, level is checked with suspension set on LOW. Common leak I would check is the front suspension return lines, you can see this by turning front wheel full lock, check both sides. The rubber return line breaks where it joins the metal tube leading back to the reservoir. Use only LDS (orange fluid for top up. B) Cheers Chris

Our moderators seem to be AWOL... All we can do is ignore the spam, and keep the forum alive until the mods get in and clean up the mess. Hang in there, keep posting <_< Cheers Chris

Have a look here >>> http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?p=917200#post917200 <<< Cheers Chris

I'd be looking for a leak ;) A common and not always obvious leak can be the return line on the front struts, these crack and break at the top where they connect to the steel pipe, easy to check with suspension on high no need to remove wheel. Cheers Chris

Check these links.. http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?showtopic=8552&pid=41504&st=0entry41504 http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?showtopic=8622&pid=41739&st=0entry41739 Cheers Chris

Can't help with the door lock issue... ... but I have had the front door handle snap on me (I'm in Australia and some parts are hard to come by) I purchased a new door handle via Ebay (Ebay User hallidayparts252) He has a busisiness in Londonderry Ireland, Part was about AUS$50.00 landed on my door step. Fitting is very easy if you have a pop rivet gun, you will see two pop rivets showing now that your handle is broken. Drill these out (about a 3mm drill bit from memory) remove old handle fit new (all quite obvious once you have removed the old). Fit two new rivets and your done... All happens from outside of car. ...unless like me you don't have a pop rivet gun capable of taking large diametre rivets, I removed the door trim and bolted the handle in place (if you go this way use nylock nuts). This will also give you an opportunity to investigate your lock problem ;) Cheers Chris

Yup, I booted he/she/it off Aussiefrogs yesterday... along with about 100 others, spam is rife at the moment :angry: Cheers Chris

Sounds like a good result Michelle, Thanks for the feedback, it's what makes these forums so valuable, :) Cheers Chris

Michelle, Can I suggest you get your mechanic to check fuel pressure, and maybe replace the 'fuel pressure regulator', your symptoms fit and this seems to be a common problem with the Xsara and pug 306 now that they are starting to age. Cheers Chris

So far only once for me since the car was new in 2002, seemed pretty crazy, but I spent a good hour trying before dropping the bumper, which really only takes 10 minutes... This was the driver side. http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64067 Cheers Chris

There is a big range of Xantia models, from very basic to more complex set-ups. The basic models should not present a problem for the home handyman. You need to give more detail, though I presume yours is a diesel from your biodiesel question? Cheers Chris

This has been covered many times, common fault with the C5 This thread shows removal of the Fan Control Module http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62758 This thread shows the Module can be be fixed with a replacement Mosfet for around $20AUS dollars, if you are handy with a soldering iron. I'm pretty sure you would be able to buy the replacement Mosfet in the UK http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showpost.php?p=816452&postcount=1 Cheers Chris

I'ts hard to diagnose remotely, so can only offer sugestions... The crakshaft pulley would normaly make a bit of noise if it were failing (rattle/ chatter), best way to check if it is a problem is to run a mark with a white tippo pen or similar across the inner metal, rubber and outer metal that makes up the pulley, run the engine and check to see if the marks stay in alignment. Removing the belt may not give a good indication of the alternators condition, on some C5s the alternator may be a clutch type, the pulley on these should only turn in one direction (I beleive) but if it is suspect it may only produce symptoms once certain rpm are acheived... Another thing to look at would be condition of engine/ gearbox mounts, failing mounts could give you the symptoms you describe? Cheers Chris Edit: Just noticed your username - we are talking about a C5 here, yes?

Sounds like a similar and common fault with the C5, the temp is controlled by two flaps one for left and one for right, these are driven by two electric motors. Over time the drive cog or recess it sits into can break-down, the motor still turns but the flap does not move and you have the symptom you describe. Citroen are aware of the problem and have made available an inexpensive kit to repair the cog, access on the C5 is through the glovebox, and generally the lower motor is the one that fails (controls passenger side vent). Others here may have more info on the Picasso? You could try moving both controls through full temp range, i.e. set temp to minimum for both sides, then to maximum, and back to ideal temp. This sometimes will pick up the drive on the problem side for a temporary stay of execution :>) Let us know how you go... Cheers Chris

C5 suspension is checked with the setting on LOW!! Level should be just below the the filter filler basket, DO NOT overfill, the tank preasurises and can crack. Cheers Chris