DickieG

A friend has had the engine management light illuminate of her 2004 C3 1.4 HDi, I gave it a Lexia session and found three codes, the first two; P1357 Pre heater relay circuit plugs not supplied and P0215 Ignition system supply relay circuit stuck were shown as intermittent and having cleared them they remained cleared for the duration the car was with me. The third one one was shown as permanent; P2137, Accelerator pedal 1 signal coherence with the 2 accelerator pedal signal. Having cleared the fault it reappeared a few minutes later whilst idling. When reading parameters and pressing the accelerator pedal the % movement appeared smooth and linear on Lexia both pre and post fault clearing hence I'm looking for further pointers as I've never dabbled with a C3. Has anyone got any clues other than there being a dodgy connection 'somewhere' i.e. where exactly etc. Normally I'd have a good poke around but as I'm semi invalided ATM with a slipped disc, crawling around in footwells in the hope of finding something isn't really a sensible option for me, just hoping someone has somewhere to point me towards. I have had one suggestion of replacing the accelerator pedal (the sensor is attached to the top of the pedal) I'm wondering whether anyone has experienced a similar problem?

It will almost certainly be due to a poor connection on the switch within the brake pedal. Remove the two screws at the rear of the pdeal and clean the contacts.

Tilt the glass downwards then using a small screwdriver move the two wire clips outwards to unclip them.

I presume from your enquiry that the display is blank? It may well be that the N/S mirror has been replaced with a cheaper version that does not have the probe. What version of Xantia do you have?

It's quite common for these vacuum hoses to be disconnected from the relays. One connects up to the EGR (exhaust gas recycle) valve which people disconnect to avoid the engine sucking in a horrible slimy gunk from the exhaust (this can cause problems at high mileage) at the cost of higher exhuast emmisions that are not measured in MOT tests. The second one raises the idle speed at start up or when the air conditioning is turned on. The car will run OK with both disconnected, I'll take a look at mine later to tell you what relay connects to what pipe.

Is your Xantia a V6, HDI or TD auto? If so then the problem is due to play in the caliper upper slides (Bendix caliper). Citroen issued a technical bulletin on this with the repair kit part number 4449 71. The kit is a piece of sprung metal which fits between the caliper and the mounting bracket. To find out whether this is the cause of the fault the noise should disappear when braking lightly over rough surfaces.

It sits just under the passenger side door mirror, its the small blob at the point where the mirror hinges.

Is the noise from the front or rear of the car? If it's from the rear it would indicate worn rear arm bearings, normally this happens at high mileages. It can be seen by looking at the car from behind at the angle of the wheels which should be vertical and not like / '092; . The repair kit is about £30 per side and not too difficult to do diy.

When the car refuses to start is was it parked facing uphill by any chance? If so then that would indicate a small leak on the fuel line (normally the primer bulb has a small split) bear in mind with such leaks that they rarely leave a residue because the pipe is sucking at this point, so it will let air in (allowing the fuel to run back to the tank) but not allow fuel to leak out. Try squeezing the primer bulb until it becaomes hard then try starting the engine. The non illuminating glow plug light could be a busted bulb 'red herring'. Have you checked that the glow plugs themselves are OK?

In the handbook, it may well give digrems/picture of the two types, one could for instance have a 'sports' button with a different way of selecting gears on the lever.

I can't help with the cruise control but to sort out the rev counter, remove the dash pod (25 Torx size 20 screw's!) then simply turn the dash pod upside down and the needle will fall back into position. The needle getting stuck beyond max rev's tends to happen when the battery goes flat, I believe it's due to the instruments being 'Solid state'.

AFAIK there is no undertray on a V6, or in fact any petrol model, there isn't one on my V6, Activa or any other V6's I've seen.

On Xantia estate's water leaks into the rear footwells are invariably due to a damaged inner membrane on the boot door or a poor seal around the rear wiper spindle.

There are several different compressors made by a couple of manufacturers, I'd take a look at the identification sticker on the side of the compressor and make sure you replace like with like.

It is removed that way, you'll probably need to insert a small screwdriver from the side where it meets the main dash.