Socks

question on recoding: would a new ECU, or an unlocked used one (if I could track down such a beast), work without getting it recoded? I just wouldn't be able to lock the car? Thanks for the above, btw.

Looks like I may have to go down that route unless I can source a new ECU for reasonable money - even then there'll be the charge for coding the new one, presumably. I'll 'pop' the unit on Monday and take a look inside it, see if there are signs of repairable damage, or try a repair service as you suggest after talking over the sums with my mechanic. Thanks.

just off the phone with the mechanic and he's confirmed it needs a new ECU, unfortunately. Main Dealer price is stratospheric, so unless I can source a new one at considerably less, that's basically it. I'll try the service.citroen site later, plus ebay etc... Not sure, but I don't think it's a case of idling too low or anything like that.

no fault code appears, although our ubiquitous friend "antipollution fault" does pop up (intermittently, bien sur) on the LCD panel. Car's with a pretty good indy mechanic at the moment and nothing's come to light - he reckons it's an ECU issue. I've passed on how to reset the ECU but he apparently had that info and no joy, so... Any ideas what it might be? Fuel pump was recently replaced to fix a previous issue and AFAIK the exhaust sensors are OK. Just wondering if anyone managed to cure a similar problem? Thanks. Model: 2.0 HPi Exclusive

Update: Bought a U380 hand-held reader from this site - which worked a treat, once I figured out that the erase button doubles as a scroll button depending on what menu level you're on. The device itself detects the protocol (ISO-9141) and displays the fault codes, the definitions of which are listed in the supplied instruction manual. Erasing the codes will clear the MIL (the "Check Engine" light) on next switch-on. Have to say I was pretty impressed the thing actually worked given all the horror stories that surround buying these things off the net. All I have to do now is cure the misfire... :D

Hi, am thinking of getting one of those handheld code reader/scanners you see advertised everywhere, for my 2001 2.0 litre petrol C5. Any advice on which one to get? Which protocol (ISO, PWM) etc.? Anything at all, really. Thanks

thanks

it's a 2.0 (HPI).

Can't seem to find it. Need directions. :ph34r:

Does anyone have any experience fitting one of these? The 2 wire variety, to a petrol C5 (2.0 HPi)? The Citroen part is around £60 + Vat AFAIK, which to be fair is a lot cheaper than the 4+ wire ones (assuming the Citroen guy I spoke to over the phone today and I were on the same page.) I've spotted cheaper ones such as this one on ebay... but have heard "universal ones don't work" from a number of people, so thought I'd check the forum to see if anyone had had success (or failure!) with one of these cheaper alternatives. Thanks

It's just stopped working all of a sudden. The only thing it will do is eject a CD, so there is some life in it! Any thoughts? Was thinking possibly battery related... you know, the whole Eco mode thing (?) My car's a 2001 2.0 HPi Exclusive. I believe the problem happened before but somehow was resolved, can't remember how... I've tried the disconnecting the battery, btw. TIA

Thanks... found it. Access does look a bit tricky; wondering if I can get away with just removing the air filter housing and not the ECUs box? I'll do the test you suggest to see if there is any further travel in the pot. Mine's the petrol 2.0 HPI model, btw.

The accelerator pedal in my C5 rests below the clutch and brake pedals... I 'hear' it is a simple job to tighten the cable. Can I do this from above the engine bay or do I have to go underneath the car? TIA

OK, so I rang up and priced them and they were 50% dearer than my normal garage straight off the bat, and couldn't take me until 10 days' time earliest. No real problem, as I only needed a service (which I got done yesterday) and the timing belt kit I could trust to my existing garage to replace. For more 'techie' jobs, though, I'll consider going to them but they're a bit out of the way and tbh, if it isn't suspension-related, I'll probably stick with my local place.

Just fixed the same problem yesterday on mine, although i could 'hear' the lock's solenoid working, which it may not be in your case. Anyway, I took off the door trim, beginning at the bottom after unscrewing and removing the door opener 'cup', grab handle and speaker, and pulling out the electric window switch and disconnecting the wires. I then cut through the grey membrane to give access to the lock and sprayed WD40 into the lock as best I could; waited 10 mins. Then instead of using the door handle to open, I pulled on the connecting rod itself and this actually opened the lock! Prior to opening it I had fiddled around inside the lock (it's a tight squeeze but try) and managed to get movement of some part of it -- child lock perhaps? deadlock? I've no idea -- so that may have helped. But I believe the problem had been both door handles not producing the 100% 'pull' needed to snick the sticking lock, which is why pulling on the rod itself directly worked. HTH and good luck!