Shemer

Hi, Check the following site (it's for PUG306, but it should be the same cooling system (assuming you have original A/C). PUG306 cooling. See the cooling fan control unit in the pic. ? http://www.peugeotlogic.com/workshop/wshtml/electric/ac306/coolfan2/fan1.jpg I suspect it's the faulty one (the box is made by Italian Bitron, located either behind the glovebox (or, if no glovebox, under the plastic cover), or else - under the front driver's wing.

Don't change the hydraulic fluid. it can last for ever in the steering system, and may only get you into trouble if not bleeded right.

Did you check the harness part goes towards starter motor? looks like there's a short in there. Was the car starting by itself even before you touched the harness, or just the burnt wiring was there?

1. Get the radiator and coolling system cleaned (you may buy special flush in the shpos, but I would recommend using 1 spoon of washing powder (yes, same 1 you use in your home washing machine. Don't tempt to use dishes soap or any other, unless you want your car to start producing bubbles :D ). 2. As for the white smoke - think it's the valave seals (rings) - they tend to get dried, then oil leaks. Replacing them may not even require removing the cylinder head (in the garage, they insert air pressure from the cylinder (where the spark plug connects), which holds the valve in seat while you replace the seal).

As for the "quite" indicator action - the easiest solution is to get a 12V buzzer from any electronics store, and connect it to the indicator relay (make sure in the store that it's not a kind of annoying buzzer :D ). Regarding the 4 light working all the time - looks like handle problem (same one as for the headlights), but first please let us know if there any external (aftermarket) alram connected or what so ever. Cheers.

Before taking the instrument panel off, try the following: .Do you have lights in the console area (i.e - where the heater/blower controls are) ? If no lights - Try to take the dimmer out of it's place, and make a short between both wires. This should eliminate the dimmer, and give you normal light. In this case - you'll have to replcae the dimmer itself. Else - follow Colin's instruction regarding the instrument panel.

Colin is absolutely right (as usual :-) ). ATF fluid from any known manufacturer will fit you. 2 comments: 1. System should not require any top up. If you're missing the fluid - check for leaks. you don't want to get stuck with a very hard to turn steering wheel, especially when Murphy is just waiting around the corner. 2. If leak was found and fixed - make sure you bleed the system from air bubbles, else you'll have the steering "stuck" for a second while turning the wheel.

Are you sure it's the thermostat? if it was only this - the heater should have keep working properly, since water still going through. Are you using tap water in the cooling system or coolant ?

Hi, Did you release the 2 securing bolts of the driveshaft (located in the lower engine support bracket) ?

Switches are no. 1 cause for such problems. Do as colin suggested (12 volts to engine for checking). Then try to clean the contacts, contact spray may be helpful.

For replacing the bearings you'll need a dent puller, since bearings are inside the pipe holding the arms. Only after dismantling the arms you will know if axle is worth renewal, since if arms are "eaten" by old bearings, forget it. Also, if you decide to do it anyway, don't forget to measure the distance between a fixed point in the car (say, rear wing) and the middle of the brake while it's lifted in the air. make sure you go back to same distance after assembly - do it for both arms. If you find an axle in good shape, take it, just drill two grease nipples in, and make sure you put some grease in.

No you can not, since engine and gearbox have (together) 3 seats (brackets), where 2 of them support the engine itself. What you can, if easier, is to 1st remove the G/box (dismantle wheels, driveshafts, spring/shock absorber etc.), then sperate engine block and G/box housing, then lift engine only. But I guess it's easier to pull them out together, much faster. Of course you can support the G/box with jack/ stand or what so ever, but I wouldn't do that' may fall down and break, and anyway you're not saving any work.

Guess it's the mighty all lord coming from the sky to take the ZX back to his private stable, else it may be a policeman trying to signal you to stop with his Maglite. Better slow down, or at least explain what kind of light do you mean.

Wing and bumper won't exactly fit, there's a slight difference between ZX type I (up to 95, as far as I remember) and Type II. They can be distingiushed by the front look of the hood. Type I: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/08/Citroen_ZX_VL.jpg/800px-Citroen_ZX_VL.jpg Type II: http://www.chinacartimes.com/wp-content/citroen-zx-08.JPG They can be adjusted, but if your other wing is the old one - you'll have about 2cm. gap between wing and bumper. As for Gearbox - it depends on the size of the engine. 1.4 engines are TU series (Intake towards firewall, exahust towards front of the car), while (in ZX) 1.6, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0 are XU (exhaust manifold towards car's firewall). Gearboxes won't fit, unless it's same engine type (even then, there are differences in gears ration, but this is less critical).

If the car was standing for 12 years, I would first check the bushes holding the rear suspension to the floor. They're made of french rubber (which, in fact, is made out of dry baguette crumb), so very possible that they're cracked. Normal state I would suspect the inner parts of the rear suspensions (torsion bar bearings), but according to your details (low milage, no movement for years) I would fist check the bushes. Anyway, a good practice to extend the bearings life - get to a garage, ask him to drill 2 small holes in the pipe contains the torsion bars, and attach greasing nipples (as used to be in old-time cars). Good greasing from time to time will make the suspension last much longer.