Tom R

Exacly the same Undo shaft nut Disconnect lower ball joint Remove carrier bearing (bolted to crank case) remove shaft Knock off cv joint (held in with spring ring inside) change boot Refit is reverse ps don't forget to catch the oil as it comes out of the diff and refill at end pps Never remove both shafts at the same time because the crown wheel will drop out of alignment!! :rolleyes: Tom

Hi Gordon, Thanks for the info. I have changed the sender unit (with one from a Peugeot 406!) changed the drive cog and it works! And, it's accurate!! Tom

If you can locate a Mk2 model at your local breakers, the complete strut and support can be replaced. The bolt holes are exactly the same. You will need to replace both sides complete. The difference in design is that the Mk2 struts are much thicker and shorter (and stronger) than the Mk1. If you are able to obtain the struts from a breakers, be careful to look at the replacement struts for the size of the feed pipe ports. There are two sizes. If your originals are the small bore pipe and you can only get large bore replacements, a very cheap converter plug is availlable from Citroen. There is no way of fitting large bore pipes to small bore ports. Tom

If you can get hold of the Haynes manual, it will tell you step by step. Tom

As you suspect, it is not a fuse! Because of the way that the heater is designed, there is no on and off tap for the watyerflowing through the heater matrix - the water flow is constant. There are two actuators on the left hand side of the heater unit which open and close the temperature control flaps. One, or both of these could be faulty. The other thing to check is internal the temperature sensor which is located in the coutesy light at the front of the roof. It looks like a small cigar with an induction fan at one end. This is what triggers the actuators on the heater unit to open or close the heating flaps Tom

As you suspect, it is not a fuse! Because of the way that the heater is designed, there is no on and off tap for the watyerflowing through the heater matrix - the water flow is constant. There are two actuators on the left hand side of the heater unit which open and close the temperature control flaps. One, or both of these could be faulty. The other thing to check is internal the temperature sensor which is located in the coutesy light at the front of the roof. It looks like a small cigar with an induction fan at one end. This is what triggers the actuators on the heater unit to open or close the heating flaps Tom

I had the exact same problem with a diesel version. The result was a broken gasket in the injection pump which was only found by Bosch after lengthy investigation. Aparently, it is a small gasket which maintains the fuel pressure and doesn't allow it to flow back to the fuel tank/ If you have a diesel, it might be worth taking it to a diesel specialist. Tom

The head gasket is the probable cause. However, when my car lost water, the head gasket was ok. The cause was a crack in one of the valve guides allowing water to be turned to vapor. This was accompannied by poor starting and running when cold Tom

Hello The remote receiver unit is located in the front courtesy light unit above the windscreen Depending on which spec you have, you should only need to remove the light lens and the the two 'phillips' screws and the whole light unit shou;d drop down from the roof (be careful not to break the two small plastic lugs at the widscreen end of the light unit!) Tom

Hello The remote receiver unit is located in the front courtesy light unit above the windscreen Depending on which spec you have, you should only need to remove the light lens and the the two 'phillips' screws and the whole light unit shou;d drop down from the roof (be careful not to break the two small plastic lugs at the widscreen end of the light unit!) Tom

The rear trailing arm bearings are simple enough to change providing that you can get the outer bearing races out of the trailing arm itself. The long bolt which goes through the arm has the nylock nut on the inside of the arm (26mm Socket) and can be very tight. The best way to get the outer bearing races changed is by using a bearing puller (availlable from hire shops), or take the radius arm to a local garage and get them to remove the old races and insert the new ones. They have to be firmly pressed up to a 'boss' in the radius arm, so cleanliness is paramount. Make sure you refill the bearings with the correct amount of grease and ensure you put the oil seals (new) and the shims (old back in the same positon as original and use a new nut. A repair kit from a decent automotive store should have everything you need. Each side should not take more than a couple of hours (Pressing out and replacing bearing races permitting. Tom

That would not be possible as the clutch friction plate has a large centre boss which, if assembled the wrong way round would stop the friction material contacting the flywheel. So, if you can engage the clutch, you have it assembled correctly. Alkso, there would be a 'grinding' noise of metal against metal!

According to Citroen, you should be able to move the gearbox toward the left hand side (after removing the engine mounting) and change the clutch without removing the engine OR the gearbox ?? Tom

Hi Chris

Hi Chris I have had 5 BX's, it would appear that you have lost the 'transfer bolt' which is pressure held between the operating arm - at the clutch end of the cable- and the clutch release fork. This takes the view of a 'headless' bolt which is rounded at both ends and is about an 8M approximately three to three and a half inches long. Unusually, most Citroen clutches have positive pressure on the thrust bearing which is determined by a fairly light spring at the top of the clutch pedal. The correct method of adjusting the cluth is to measure the distance between the clutch pedal and the steering wheel (with the cluth at rest) then check the distance between the clutch pedal and the steering wheel (with the clutch pedal fully depressed. the difference btetween these measurements should be between 130mm and 160mm. If all else fails, log on to www.haynesmanuals.co.uk they have a technical department who will 'e' mail remedies directly to you for free. Hope this helps Good Luck Tom