sifaan

hi coastline the hazards are not working. i didn't expect it to be difficult to find a replacement fuse but it seems that's another treasure hunt all by itself in this neck of the woods however, as the car was working (except for the suspension) before the fuse was removed, shouldn't it mean that it should still work while the fuse is out? for a load test i'd have to take it to the battery shop anyway (assuming that the nearby place offers the service) so might as well get it charged up and see. would I risk any further damage by trying a jump start? (I guess I'd have to leave the other car connected for a while with engine revving till the circuits boot themselves up?) thanks

the outlook is not good :( battery tests OK (12V across terminals) wire is good (negligible resistance across it, and voltage test from end of wire to battery negative is 12V) battery negative clip is on tight (even voltage test from chassis to end of wire is 12V) any suggestions on what I could check next? if, as coastline says, the fuse box is fried, how can I confirm that? ( Thanks /Sifaan

Forgot to say that the hazards are not working either In case the wire is good and the battery is dead, is it safe to try and jump start the car? - if so, should I do it as per normal procedure, or disconnect my battery and start off the other cars battery alone (with the other engine running?) Or is it better to take the battery to a battery shop and get them to check it?

Seems I have shorted the battery across the resistance of the wrench. Any idea if maintenance free batteries come with internal fuses? Haven't replaced the busted maxi fuse but others are fine. The bust one was the first I checked, and even after that, things were dead - it's only subsequently that I removed and checked the other fuses 1 by 1. Will hopefully borrow a volt meter today to check this properly

Hi! found that a 40A maxi fuse was blown. But now I have a bigger issue - might have friend something. posted a new thread http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?/topic/15030-sparks-have-i-fried-somethibg-expensive/

When trying to get at the maxi fuses (for a non-working suspension) I had to remove a nut and I hadn't disconnected the battery (silly me) This is the bolt immediately forward of the Ecu/fuse box. The spanner struck the body and some sparks flew - not much, not heavy. Disconnected the battery after that, and found that the 40a pump fuse was blown. But now the car is electrically dead. No key fob response, no indicators for key in ignition, and even the slight sparks when reconnecting the negative lead to the battery are missing. Have I fried something expensive? All the other maxi fuses, and the ones on the Ecu are fine. Didn't have time to check in glove box but it seems unlikely a master fuse would be there. What should I check? Thanks.

Hi all! Since last night, the car is permanently in low position - the up/down switches give animations on the display but the car stays solidly down. there is no whirring noise of the pump audible (and neither at key unlock time in the morning). presuming LDS levels are OK as power steering is working fine (but the tank cover is too tight for me to get open). Is the pump bust? Could it be a fuse? anything else to check first before selling an eye? Thanks /Sifaan BTW car is 1st gen C5 (2002 YOM, 2.0 petrol (non HPI), auto)

Hi! I have a first gen C5 (2.0i with hydractive 3+) and there's a leak on the oil back harness in the front suspension return piping. this is a picture of what it looks like (if looking from the front of the car, this is to the top-left of the engine; BTW I had a look at a C5 HPI and this space looked totally different on that car so YMMV) http://citroen.almostunreal.org/oil_picture.jpg the particular hose that is leaking leads to the top of the LDS reservoir. I have obtained the replacement part (#2 in the following diagram - it is the hose leading to the tank as well as the junction box) http://citroen.almostunreal.org/oil_diagram.jpg any advice on what I need to do to replace the part? Is it just a case of putting the car on the lowest height setting, unplugging the hoses leading to the junction box, plug them into the new one, fix the new one at the reservoir tank, and top up LDS as required? getting access to the junction box to maneuver the hoses seems tricky, but it isn't obvious to me how to remove stuff to make the access easier :( and afaik there is no special requirement to bleed the LDS once the job is done? (except maybe cycle through the height settings a few times?) Thanks! BTW earlier the former Citroen agent in Sri Lanka used to accept if I supplied the parts and they charged for the labour which was very reasonable. But they no longer accept customer supplied parts and wanted to charge me 25000 rupees (about 140 pounds) for the part and also 3 weeks to supply it, whereas I got it from a UK dealer for 30 pounds + VAT). Unfortunately that means there is no facility in Sri Lanka trained in hydractive who can do this for me; the best I could find is an indy with Pug experience...

I don't know actually if there was a problem with the old compressor or not, since they discovered there's a gas leak (but couldn't locate where) when replacing the compressor - severe loss of trust in them for asking me to replace the compressor without confirming for loss of gas first! anyway, took it to another mech (more recommended by some friends who have euro cars) where, after some searching, found a leak in the seal on the low pressure side of the compressor (where the tube fixes to it) and the seal was replaced (couldn't immediately locate the double lip type seal that PSA uses, but stacked two seals and seems to be holding). anyway also included the dye in case there are other leaks we haven't found yet (this was after separately pressuring the evaporator, condensor and compressor). regassed and cooled on both sides. however - I think the contacts for the sensor on the refrigerant line at the condensor is messed up, because driving home after regassing the ac refused to cut it; drove back and checked - gas pressure still ok; I think the problem may have been when the sensor was disconnected to remove the condensor to check for leaks, so hopefully a shot of contact cleaner will do the trick.

i've seen comments by many people that the anti-theft nuts are a mess and it's better to stay with regular nuts for the centering device, once you undo one nut, you can screw this in, then undo the rest, remove wheel, then when putting it back on, you can use the tool as a guide. I guess it would also work to screw in the guide after you've taken the wheel off. experienced tyre changes (like at a wheel shop) can manage without, but it's a b**** for normal people. btw i would highly recommend you buy a haynes manual for the car.

the auto setting sets all the parameters inc. fan speed and distribution so you don't need to change anything; (except here in Sri Lanka I switch it to recycled air as fresh air is too warm) fan speed will start high(er) and reduce as the desired temp is arrived at. if it's not cooling enough it could be the gas (most likely), or some other issue with the ac system (possibly pollen filter may need replacement)

if you register at service.citroen.com (which is anyway useful in terms of part lookup, etc) you can enter your VIN and see the specs on the car; on "Characterists", under "Interior Fittings" see the entry for "Obstacle Detection System"

it should work in reverse gear without any other intervention - should start beeping a little over 1m away from obstructions and increase in frequency as you get closer :) if it doesn't work, either something is broken - or previous owner disabled it (via a lexia)

well, two separate places looked at it (one the former citroen agents, the other an independent but do a lot of AC work) and pointed fingers at the compressor... I can't recall exact words but I think what they said was as it does go upto 250psi then it can't be a gas issue (I guess if the gas is low the high side pressure will be a consistently low amount?) and the compressor is a variable displacement type (Sanden SD7V16 1242)

did you manage to find a solution to the problem? I am experiencing something similar, but I'm thinking it's more to do with the engine warming up than the tranny warming up. (hard to be really sure since I don't know how to make one hot without making the other hot too. unless leaving the engine on idle with box in P for 15 minutes or so, but even then I think the tranny oil would heat up). i've replaced the fuel filter and that seems to have helped but not fixed the problem; next step is to get the injectors out and cleaned by ultrasonic; I did do a clean with 3M cleaner about 9 months ago but apparently the ultrasonic is miles better. also i've been advised to check on the EGR/vacuum

I was told pretty much the same - that cool air only on one side can be a result of insufficient pressure - i.e. it doesn't have enough "cooling power" to run across the whole evaporator matrix; on subsequent checking, it turned out my gas pressure is OK, but compressor is having problems maintaining the pressure: on switch on, pressure rises to about 250 psi, then drops down to about 170 psi. seems like the problem has been worsening progressively so first step is to replace the compressor (hopefully I will have the part in early next week) and see if that fixes it; or if there is also still an issue with flap motors.

occassionally these parts also turn up on ebay. what you should do is register at service.citroen.com (as a motor trade professional); enter the VIN number and you can browse the parts on the car - check out the rear suspension and from the exploded diagrams you should be able to figure the part (and part number) you need. (I imagine this particular part would be the same across all variants of the C5 but other stuff - like the spheres - do change; so better be safe) once you have the part numbers, you can check on ebay and with dealers; personally I've had good experience buying from bollingmore ashford's for stuff that isn't available on ebay (usually ebay is cheaper if they have it, but not always, and sometimes the stuff on ebay is aftermarket as opposed to original Citroen)

any chance of validating this (e.g. can lexia give a live reading from these sensors) before I take my dashboard apart? thanks!

the images work, but now I'm a bit confused - are there 4 motors (2 for each side)? this would make more sense than 3 (3rd for the windscreen) because (now that I think of it) there can't be a mixer for the windscreen - the front defroster sets both sides' temp to 16 when it operates. But how come the citroen parts diagram only shows/lists 3?? also, just wondering if some temperature sensor/s could be involved here? I'm guessing there are some kind of temp sensor for each side for feedback to the climate control? cos while the majority of the time it's working on passenger and not on driver, there are occassions where it doesn't work on either side (just blowing; however compressor is engaged - cos switching to eco shows a drop in rpm), as well as occassions where it works on both sides. Thanks

sorry chris, the pics don't show - not on the aussiefrogs thread, not on the image links (following them gives a vBulletin message "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator"). BTW the tags for images on this site are [img= ]

Hi! My car has problems cold starting (usually needs to be cranked 2-3 times to start), and this is supposedly a problem with all C5s (a grand total of 6) in Sri Lanka. In any case, I've replaced (at various points over the last 9 months) fuel pump, fuel filter, oil + oil filter, air filter and the problem still persists. Recently I discovered (from Citroen DocBackup+Sedre) that there has been an ECU update issued by Citroen way back in 2003; not sure if the local "agent" has it because they are no longer supported by Citroen (they still have the Proxia unit, hydropneaumatic testing unit, etc. but no longer get updates, training etc) Is there anyway to track down this update? Thanks

there's more detailed instructions here. That even goes on about how you might be able to repair the motor in some cases; but if you have the replacements just use them. One of the things I discovered is that, the unit needs to be plugged in when you zero the needles - i.e. plug it in without putting on the transparent cover; start the car up and drive a bit to confirm the motors work (also resolves any forced rotations in the stepper), then fix the cover without unplugging it (it requires a bit of maneuvering). I think it's OK to unplug to fit the cover, but make sure the needles don't move.

RHD - legacy of being a british colony :) Indeed! Thank you :)

lol according to parts diagrams, there are 3 (part #2) - 2 on the passenger side, one on the driver side: http://sifaan.almostunreal.org/evaphousing.png from the citroen service documentation (referred to in my earlier post) the passenger side motor is on the passenger side, the lower one (the one closer to the coolant line): http://sifaan.almostunreal.org/evaphousing.gif so which is the driver side? the one opposite (access via driver side) or the other on the left? it would make "sense" that the symmetrical pair are passenger-driver and the other is for the windscreen. yes, that's the motor 6447TK that has the longer shaft or something sorry if I wasn't clear before; the melted connector is the one on the harness, the connector on the resistor pack itself seems fine; so if I were to address that it would be a case of replacing the harness (shouldn't be too hard to find a used harness but shudder to think of the amount of work entailed - the whole dashboard would come off!?)

Hi Can someone help me out please - it's getting lonely talking to myself here :) In the meantime I managed to get access to Citroen service documentation, and they also list this as an issue for the LEFT HAND side; furthermore, I was wondering if the outside sensor can have something to do with the A/C or is it only for information, and it turns out it does have a bearing on the AC function, but unlikely to be the situation for me as the problem should be symmetric for driver/passenger if that was the cause. Anyway, reproducing that info as well: Thank you PS I haven't posted the repair diagrams for the above (for the first, it's just a diagram of the evaporator housing showing which motor is faulty) but can do so if it will be of use to someone