sifaan

hi coastline

the hazards are not working. i didn't expect it to be difficult to find a replacement fuse but it seems that's another treasure hunt all by itself in this neck of the woods

however, as the car was working (except for the suspension) before the fuse was removed, shouldn't it mean that it should still work while the fuse is out?

for a load test i'd have to take it to the battery shop anyway (assuming that the nearby place offers the service) so might as well get it charged up and see.

would I risk any further damage by trying a jump start? (I guess I'd have to leave the other car connected for a while with engine revving till the circuits boot themselves up?)

thanks

the outlook is not good :(

battery tests OK (12V across terminals)

wire is good (negligible resistance across it, and voltage test from end of wire to battery negative is 12V)

battery negative clip is on tight (even voltage test from chassis to end of wire is 12V)

any suggestions on what I could check next?

if, as coastline says, the fuse box is fried, how can I confirm that? (

Thanks

/Sifaan

Forgot to say that the hazards are not working either

In case the wire is good and the battery is dead, is it safe to try and jump start the car? - if so, should I do it as per normal procedure, or disconnect my battery and start off the other cars battery alone (with the other engine running?)

Or is it better to take the battery to a battery shop and get them to check it?

Seems I have shorted the battery across the resistance of the wrench.

Any idea if maintenance free batteries come with internal fuses?

Haven't replaced the busted maxi fuse but others are fine. The bust one was the first I checked, and even after that, things were dead - it's only subsequently that I removed and checked the other fuses 1 by 1.

Will hopefully borrow a volt meter today to check this properly

Hi. I had this on mine. Turns out the plug wasn't locked fully in and had disconnected its self. Its hard to get at under the headlight, but a good place to start. The fuse may be on the under side of the engine bay fuse box. Also check the break lights are not stuck on. The pump will not run if the break peddle is pressed.

Hi!

found that a 40A maxi fuse was blown. But now I have a bigger issue - might have friend something. posted a new thread http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?/topic/15030-sparks-have-i-fried-somethibg-expensive/

When trying to get at the maxi fuses (for a non-working suspension) I had to remove a nut and I hadn't disconnected the battery (silly me)

This is the bolt immediately forward of the Ecu/fuse box.

The spanner struck the body and some sparks flew - not much, not heavy.

Disconnected the battery after that, and found that the 40a pump fuse was blown. But now the car is electrically dead. No key fob response, no indicators for key in ignition, and even the slight sparks when reconnecting the negative lead to the battery are missing.

Have I fried something expensive?

All the other maxi fuses, and the ones on the Ecu are fine. Didn't have time to check in glove box but it seems unlikely a master fuse would be there.

What should I check?

Thanks.

Hi all!

Since last night, the car is permanently in low position - the up/down switches give animations on the display but the car stays solidly down. there is no whirring noise of the pump audible (and neither at key unlock time in the morning).

presuming LDS levels are OK as power steering is working fine (but the tank cover is too tight for me to get open).

Is the pump bust? Could it be a fuse? anything else to check first before selling an eye?

Thanks

/Sifaan

BTW car is 1st gen C5 (2002 YOM, 2.0 petrol (non HPI), auto)

Hi!

I have a first gen C5 (2.0i with hydractive 3+) and there's a leak on the oil back harness in the front suspension return piping.

this is a picture of what it looks like (if looking from the front of the car, this is to the top-left of the engine; BTW I had a look at a C5 HPI and this space looked totally different on that car so YMMV)

http://citroen.almostunreal.org/oil_picture.jpg

the particular hose that is leaking leads to the top of the LDS reservoir.

I have obtained the replacement part (#2 in the following diagram - it is the hose leading to the tank as well as the junction box)

http://citroen.almostunreal.org/oil_diagram.jpg

any advice on what I need to do to replace the part? Is it just a case of putting the car on the lowest height setting, unplugging the hoses leading to the junction box, plug them into the new one, fix the new one at the reservoir tank, and top up LDS as required? getting access to the junction box to maneuver the hoses seems tricky, but it isn't obvious to me how to remove stuff to make the access easier :(

and afaik there is no special requirement to bleed the LDS once the job is done? (except maybe cycle through the height settings a few times?)

Thanks!

BTW earlier the former Citroen agent in Sri Lanka used to accept if I supplied the parts and they charged for the labour which was very reasonable. But they no longer accept customer supplied parts and wanted to charge me 25000 rupees (about 140 pounds) for the part and also 3 weeks to supply it, whereas I got it from a UK dealer for 30 pounds + VAT). Unfortunately that means there is no facility in Sri Lanka trained in hydractive who can do this for me; the best I could find is an indy with Pug experience...

I have now had the air con regassed and the driver and passenger sides now both feel the same cold temperature. I have not checked the temperatures yet but they are a lot lower than before. It was not that expensive either, my dealer does a regas inc oil and dye for just under £50 or the same with a new pollen filter and deodorising for £89.99, which is not that bad considering the charcoal pollen filter is over £30 (even at places such as Eurocarparts). Interestingly, the deodoriser used smells just like the anti bacterial surface cleanser (non bleach type) by Dettol that I have used previously.

 

No MOT failures either, though when cleaning the rear brakes/greasing the caliper suspension arm joint a few days ago I noticed a rear bump stop was hanging off since it had perished. I temporarily stuck it back with sealant whilst a new one is on order (about £11) but it managed the MOT.

I don't know actually if there was a problem with the old compressor or not, since they discovered there's a gas leak (but couldn't locate where) when replacing the compressor - severe loss of trust in them for asking me to replace the compressor without confirming for loss of gas first!

anyway, took it to another mech (more recommended by some friends who have euro cars) where, after some searching, found a leak in the seal on the low pressure side of the compressor (where the tube fixes to it) and the seal was replaced (couldn't immediately locate the double lip type seal that PSA uses, but stacked two seals and seems to be holding). anyway also included the dye in case there are other leaks we haven't found yet (this was after separately pressuring the evaporator, condensor and compressor).

regassed and cooled on both sides. however - I think the contacts for the sensor on the refrigerant line at the condensor is messed up, because driving home after regassing the ac refused to cut it; drove back and checked - gas pressure still ok; I think the problem may have been when the sensor was disconnected to remove the condensor to check for leaks, so hopefully a shot of contact cleaner will do the trick.

Hi, Another question I'm afraid. Looking in the items that come with the spare wheel I can see the wheel nut release handle, Jack, Towing eye, bolt protector removal tool. However there is somthing that looks like a long screw, is that the centring tool? if so, how and when do you use it? I also have read to remove the wheels you need a anti-theft socket, where do I find that, as I can't see one in with the other tools.

 

Thanks again.

 

Jeff

i've seen comments by many people that the anti-theft nuts are a mess and it's better to stay with regular nuts

for the centering device, once you undo one nut, you can screw this in, then undo the rest, remove wheel, then when putting it back on, you can use the tool as a guide. I guess it would also work to screw in the guide after you've taken the wheel off.

experienced tyre changes (like at a wheel shop) can manage without, but it's a b**** for normal people.

btw i would highly recommend you buy a haynes manual for the car.

Hi, Am still getting to grips with my new 2.0 HDi VTR+ and have to say the AC is a bit of a lte down. I'm used to icy cold air when on a Lo setting but on my C5 it's just a little cold! I set it to Auto on Lo setting but I can't get it very cold. Can someone advise what the best setting is for fans, type of air cirulation and the like.

 

Jeff

the auto setting sets all the parameters inc. fan speed and distribution so you don't need to change anything; (except here in Sri Lanka I switch it to recycled air as fresh air is too warm)

fan speed will start high(er) and reduce as the desired temp is arrived at.

if it's not cooling enough it could be the gas (most likely), or some other issue with the ac system (possibly pollen filter may need replacement)

Hi, Spoke to the garage and they claim it wasn't standard spec. Looking at the bumper, the holes are there but closer inspection it does appear the holes are there but just covered with dust caps for the want of a better word. Looks like I've been silly I'm afraid!

 

Jeff

if you register at service.citroen.com (which is anyway useful in terms of part lookup, etc) you can enter your VIN and see the specs on the car; on "Characterists", under "Interior Fittings" see the entry for "Obstacle Detection System"

Hi, I've recently bought a C5 Tourer 2.0HDi VTR+ and to be honest really like but I can't seem to get the rear sensors to work! I can't see any button to switch on or off so assume, as they are on my bumper that they are on all the time. It's on a 58 plate, if that makes any difference, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Jeff

it should work in reverse gear without any other intervention - should start beeping a little over 1m away from obstructions and increase in frequency as you get closer :)

if it doesn't work, either something is broken - or previous owner disabled it (via a lexia)

'but compressor is having problems maintaining the pressure: on switch on, pressure rises to about 250 psi (17 bar), then drops down to about 170 psi (12 bar).'

 

This may be due to insufficient gas rather than a compressor problem since the compressor raises the gas pressure, it then goes to the condenser at the front and turns to liquid (with a far lower volume) at the same pressure (by cooling) but I would think only if there is enough gas behind it to be compressed. The Citroen mechanics manual gives the high pressure as 17 to 20 bar (outside temp 15 to 20+ °C) so I suspect your compressor is working ok. The compressor is likely to be a fixed volume displacement so if there is not enough gas volume at 17 bar then if the pressure falls the gas will expand to give the compressor volume.

well, two separate places looked at it (one the former citroen agents, the other an independent but do a lot of AC work) and pointed fingers at the compressor... I can't recall exact words but I think what they said was as it does go upto 250psi then it can't be a gas issue (I guess if the gas is low the high side pressure will be a consistently low amount?)

and the compressor is a variable displacement type (Sanden SD7V16 1242)

did you manage to find a solution to the problem?

I am experiencing something similar, but I'm thinking it's more to do with the engine warming up than the tranny warming up. (hard to be really sure since I don't know how to make one hot without making the other hot too. unless leaving the engine on idle with box in P for 15 minutes or so, but even then I think the tranny oil would heat up).

i've replaced the fuel filter and that seems to have helped but not fixed the problem; next step is to get the injectors out and cleaned by ultrasonic; I did do a clean with 3M cleaner about 9 months ago but apparently the ultrasonic is miles better.

also i've been advised to check on the EGR/vacuum

I have done some more checks today and suspect my problem is insufficient refrigerant so it may need regassing. According to the Citroen mechanics manual, with an outside temp of about 15 to 20°C, the air coming out of the central vents with fan on full and engine at 2500 rpm, should be about 7°C - outside was about 18°C and I measured 13°C on the passenger side and 16°C at the driver side so suspect a lack of gas although I did not have the engine at 2500 rpm. The difference in the 2 sides may be related to where the cold gas/liquid enters the evaporator matrix. Touching the matrix with the cabin pollen filter removed it did not feel too cold.

I was told pretty much the same - that cool air only on one side can be a result of insufficient pressure - i.e. it doesn't have enough "cooling power" to run across the whole evaporator matrix; on subsequent checking, it turned out my gas pressure is OK, but compressor is having problems maintaining the pressure: on switch on, pressure rises to about 250 psi, then drops down to about 170 psi. seems like the problem has been worsening progressively

so first step is to replace the compressor (hopefully I will have the part in early next week) and see if that fixes it; or if there is also still an issue with flap motors.

hi jack thanks for info it is just the bump stops do you no where i can buy any.

thanks steve

occassionally these parts also turn up on ebay.

what you should do is register at service.citroen.com (as a motor trade professional); enter the VIN number and you can browse the parts on the car - check out the rear suspension and from the exploded diagrams you should be able to figure the part (and part number) you need.

(I imagine this particular part would be the same across all variants of the C5 but other stuff - like the spheres - do change; so better be safe)

once you have the part numbers, you can check on ebay and with dealers; personally I've had good experience buying from bollingmore ashford's for stuff that isn't available on ebay (usually ebay is cheaper if they have it, but not always, and sometimes the stuff on ebay is aftermarket as opposed to original Citroen)

I doubt you have a problem with temp sensors.

any chance of validating this (e.g. can lexia give a live reading from these sensors) before I take my dashboard apart?

thanks!

Try aussiefrogs again, it should be fixed there, the image tags don't seem to allow me to link to attachments on AF, these links should take you to the images.

 

IMAGE 1 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16511&stc=1&d=1307104147

 

IMAGE 2 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16512&stc=1&d=1307104147

 

Cheers

Chris

the images work, but now I'm a bit confused - are there 4 motors (2 for each side)? this would make more sense than 3 (3rd for the windscreen) because (now that I think of it) there can't be a mixer for the windscreen - the front defroster sets both sides' temp to 16 when it operates.

But how come the citroen parts diagram only shows/lists 3??

also, just wondering if some temperature sensor/s could be involved here? I'm guessing there are some kind of temp sensor for each side for feedback to the climate control? cos while the majority of the time it's working on passenger and not on driver, there are occassions where it doesn't work on either side (just blowing; however compressor is engaged - cos switching to eco shows a drop in rpm), as well as occassions where it works on both sides.

Thanks

Not sure if images will show, but we'll give this a shot - if not have a look here http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?p=958856#post958856

 

IMAGE 1 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16508&stc=1&d=1307098266

 

IMAGE 2 http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16509&stc=1&d=1307098266

 

sorry chris, the pics don't show - not on the aussiefrogs thread, not on the image links (following them gives a vBulletin message "Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator").

BTW the tags for images on this site are

[img= ]

Hi!

My car has problems cold starting (usually needs to be cranked 2-3 times to start), and this is supposedly a problem with all C5s (a grand total of 6) in Sri Lanka. In any case, I've replaced (at various points over the last 9 months) fuel pump, fuel filter, oil + oil filter, air filter and the problem still persists.

Recently I discovered (from Citroen DocBackup+Sedre) that there has been an ECU update issued by Citroen way back in 2003; not sure if the local "agent" has it because they are no longer supported by Citroen (they still have the Proxia unit, hydropneaumatic testing unit, etc. but no longer get updates, training etc)

Is there anyway to track down this update?

Thanks

FOR : C5 AND MOUNTING MAGNETI MARELLI AND INJECTION EW10J4

EFFET CLIENT : Long starting time when first starting from cold

 

1. ORIGIN

Inappropriate injection ecu parameters.

 

2. AFTER-SALES REPAIR

Into the ECU, download the "Flash Eprom" software contained in update CD 28.

The "Flash Eprom" software is available on the After-Sales download server.

The identification zone of the ECU after downloading is :

 

For manual gearbox-Four 02-Syst 03-Appli 21-6B version-Edition no. 0501

Pour la boîte de vitesses automatique -Four 02-Syst 03-Appli 21-EB version-Edition no. 0501

 

Delete the faults in the ECU memory.

Using the diagnostic tool, program the autoadaptives.

Before switching off the ignition completely, start the engine and wait for a few seconds so as to reset the idle stepper motor.

Invoicing time for the downloading procedure :

 

Labour code: 16126910

Invoicing time: 0.50H

 

Invoicing time for initialising the ECU :

 

Labour code: 16123910

Invoicing time: 0.50H

Have a look at Coastline's old post:-

http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/index.php?showtopic=7855

there's more detailed instructions here. That even goes on about how you might be able to repair the motor in some cases; but if you have the replacements just use them.

One of the things I discovered is that, the unit needs to be plugged in when you zero the needles - i.e. plug it in without putting on the transparent cover; start the car up and drive a bit to confirm the motors work (also resolves any forced rotations in the stepper), then fix the cover without unplugging it (it requires a bit of maneuvering). I think it's OK to unplug to fit the cover, but make sure the needles don't move.

We may be talking at cross purposes here, is your car LHD or like the UK and Australian cars RHD?

RHD - legacy of being a british colony :)

If RHD drive yes, I would agree, but we have to remember this is a Citroen we can't apply common sense :D

Indeed!

I'm going to ask for assistance on the Aussie French car forum www.aussiefrogs.com we have a few members that are very knowledgeable and should be able to point you to which motor is the culprit ;)

Thank you :)

You're doing a great job talking to yourself :D

lol

I think you have pretty well diagnosed your problem, as I understnd it, there are two flap motors, the upper motor controls the passenger side (RHD) and the lower controls the driver side. You seem to have a failure of the lower which is unusual.

 

Access is via the glovebox, I've not done this job myself, apparently it's a bit of an exercise, you will break clips and lose some skin - but several on here have had success.

according to parts diagrams, there are 3 (part #2) - 2 on the passenger side, one on the driver side:

http://sifaan.almostunreal.org/evaphousing.png

from the citroen service documentation (referred to in my earlier post) the passenger side motor is on the passenger side, the lower one (the one closer to the coolant line):

http://sifaan.almostunreal.org/evaphousing.gif

so which is the driver side? the one opposite (access via driver side) or the other on the left? it would make "sense" that the symmetrical pair are passenger-driver and the other is for the windscreen.

It may be worth checking with Citroen, I have heard an inexpesive kit to repair the drive cog on the motor/flap control (rather than replace the whole unit).

yes, that's the motor 6447TK that has the longer shaft or something

I would sort out the resistor pack first. Mine has just died, so it gets replaced tomorrow.

sorry if I wasn't clear before; the melted connector is the one on the harness, the connector on the resistor pack itself seems fine; so if I were to address that it would be a case of replacing the harness (shouldn't be too hard to find a used harness but shudder to think of the amount of work entailed - the whole dashboard would come off!?)

Hi

Can someone help me out please - it's getting lonely talking to myself here :)

In the meantime I managed to get access to Citroen service documentation, and they also list this as an issue for the LEFT HAND side;

Permanent warm air coming from the LH side of the air conditioning

1. ORIGIN

Possible cause.

The toothing driving the air distribution flap on the LH side of the air conditioning (1) is damaged.

The distribution flap is no longer being driven by the control reduction motor.

 

2. AFTER-SALES REPAIR

Replace the reduction motor (2) for driving the LH air distribution flap.

Fit a reduction motor with longer toothing that will drive the flap despite the partial damage of the flap´s toothing.

Obtain, from the Replacement Parts Department,A reduction motor, Part No. 6447 TK.

 

N.B. : Fitting the reduction motor with longer toothing necessitates the partial removal of the dashboard

Remove the original reduction motor.

Clean the flap drive housing.

Fit the new reduction motor.

furthermore, I was wondering if the outside sensor can have something to do with the A/C or is it only for information, and it turns out it does have a bearing on the AC function, but unlikely to be the situation for me as the problem should be symmetric for driver/passenger if that was the cause. Anyway, reproducing that info as well:

Incorrect functioning of the heating or air conditioning.The value given by the outside temperature sensor located in the RH rear view mirror is incorrect

 

1. ORIGIN

Deterioration of the sensitiveness of the electronic sensor caused by ingress of water.

 

2. AFTER-SALES REPAIR

Replace the outside temperature sensor.

Obtain, from the Replacement Parts Department :

 

One sensor, Part No. 6445 F9

Two soldered sleeves, Part No. 9488 01 (packs of 50)

 

2.1. Remove the glass from the mirror

Release the pin (1) using a thin screwdriver.

2.2. Remove the rear view mirror shell

The shell is held in place by the lugs (a, b, c, d, e).The lug (e) is accessed via the exterior of the rear view mirror when it is folded back.

2.3. Remove the sensor

Detach the sensor (3) and cut the electrical harness in the area indicated.

2.4. Fit the new sensor

Join the 2 wires of the sensor to the harness you have cut, using the soldered sleeves (no polarity).

2.5. Proceed in reverse order to refit the rear view mirror

Thank you

PS I haven't posted the repair diagrams for the above (for the first, it's just a diagram of the evaporator housing showing which motor is faulty) but can do so if it will be of use to someone