sifaan

I have exactly the same problem (rear levelling doesn't happen when engine is running), before I get busy with WD40 just wanted to clarify how come the sensor works when the engine is off? Thanks!

Hi Dave I had tried 1stchoice without success; one of the sites you listed seems to have generated a hit from sparesfinder.com with some telephone numbers of breakers. will need to call them up and see if they're breaking any C5s at present. BTW Some of the sites don't let me specify wiring looms for the inquiry :S Thanks

bump... any ideas? If you can connect me to anyone breaking C5s (apart from the ones already on ebay) that would be good enough... Thanks!

Hi all I'm looking for a main harness and possibly also the engine harness. Can anyone help me locate a C5 (1st generation, EW10J4 engine (2.0l gasoline indirect injection), automatic transmission, motorized throttle body) that is being broken for parts? Thanks in advance /Sifaan PS Already trying breakers on ebay.

ok, here's an update after taking the car in today. first off, the "coolant leak check" job was incompetent to say the least. all they had done was bleed the system. today when the regular (i.e. citroen trained, although that's not really relevant; just that he's more competent!) mechanic looked at it he could see evidence of a leak at the radiator top - turned out the connecter where the inlet hose connects is cracked. it's made of plastic; and plastic radiator tops in Sri Lanka give trouble eventually. luckily it won't cost too much to get a replacement copper top made. of course it still doesn't explain why the problem only appeared about a month back, and at least 3 weeks after any work related to the cooling system (replacing water pump). but what may have happened is that some glue or something was used to "fix" the leak and it lasted until now. given how other "maintenance" has been carried out on the vehicle, I wouldn't be too surprised! needless to say didn't bother with any diagnostics, as the overheating may be purely a result of the leak, so I'll get the leak fixed and see if the problem reappears. however, there are still wiring related issues (in addition to those described before, I also found that the front washer switch turns on the offside fog light briefly!). I took some pics: overview (you can even see one wire that isn't connected) close up of the "repaired wires" wiring leading to the ECU (there has been some repair work there as well) if I can get a replacement main harness that would be the preferred choice rather than having to sort these out 1 by 1 :S coastline, the tag number is 96 111 412 80, does it match what you've got? (or alternately, I'll look up the part number when you send me the VIN) edit: according to citroen, the tag for main harness should be 9649020380; not sure what the number 9611141280 was for...

that would be great... are the harnesses the same for HPI and indirect injection engines? also citroen site lists 3 engine harnesses and I don't know which of those I should be looking for. will try to see if there's a tag number visible on it. if it would work, I can see if there is someone who can hand carry it (would also depend on weight/size) or otherwise go for the postage option. i haven't specifically checked on the earth but I'll ask the garage; should I be looking for a good connection to the body? Will also get some pics of the area to show the current status... I'm not sure how badly the fuse box was damaged, only that it was replaced; also I know some wiring was repaired but not sure if it related to the ecu... however as garage things the wiring repairs maybe responsible for the MAP sensor fault then maybe something in the area was affected. thanks

engine code is DCRFNF currently what I try to do with the parts is to get somebody travelling from UK to hand carry it (which means I'm not quite in control of when I can get the parts down); parts by post can result in taxes so generally try to avoid that... did you have some idea in mind?

should the agents have the pin data (I'm guessing that citroen should provide them with it)? tracing the wires from the numbers might be tricky because that's probably on the part that was damaged by the fire but I'll talk to the agents about this when I go in for the diagnostics tomorrow... is it still worth to watch the live data and try to correlate with physical temperatures? at least we might discover the engine is not really overheating - and hence I could keep using the car while trying to fix the issues (e.g. locate a harness).

it's a late 2002 car; has ~90k kms (in Sri Lanka we use km for distance!) but due to our conditions timing belt changes are actually recommended earlier than UK so actually it was overdue on the car. the fusebox had burned out due to an electrical fire (battery terminal not fixed properly -> spark -> fire). also the heat shield under the bonnet was replaced and the burnt wires repaired (seems to have been some guesswork with this as subsequently discovered) the AL4 box had been replaced under warranty (at the agent) seems to be fine now. when buying the car the agent identified some issues, and we discounted the cost of those against the purchase; these included: flushing and refilling LDS (some absolute idiot had topped it up with ATF... said idiot was an ex-mechanic of the agent who had gone down the alcohol road) replace 1 rear gas sphere, both rear suspension cylinders, both front leak back hoses replace both lower arm ball joints replace front brake pads replace timing belt + water pump power steering pump (it was leaking) flush/replace brake fluid (no history of having it done in the last 2 years) injector cleaning (using 3M additive) replace spark plugs replace 2 tyres (worn out) speedometer (it's just the stepper motor; currently using the tacho motor for the speedo) subsequently appeared/discovered and fixed engine mounts (1806.52 link right and 1844.92 mounting bracket right) drive belt (came off due to leak from the PAS pump before it could be replaced) crank pulley (damper broken) and drive belt tensioner (wasn't tensioning anymore) A/C compressor clutch (the coil was rewired and baked in) front brake discs (there had been a crack that had been repaired!) front brake caliper (getting down the repair kit and pistons; binding was taking place and the hand brake had been disconnected as a workaround. probably this binding was what had caused the crack; also the old brake pads had unbalanced wear) wiring fault in headlights (it was the fogs that were getting turned on, not the dipped beam) / reverse lights (there was ~8V voltage even when the lights were supposed to be off) washer pump failure (not fully fixed, as detailed in other post). our bad for not checking this specifically. starter motor solenoid (contacts worn) fuel pump (was getting very iffy; tended to need to be tapped several times in the morning before it would start up). morning starting is still iffy. still confused as to whether I have the correct pump or not. Please see this.Replaced front suspension brackets (it was rather expensive that the agent did not discover this first time around) + rebound stop + cylinder boot Replaced Com2000 (the airbag fault message pre-existed; agent told us not to wory about it, and we didn't know it possibly meant an expensive com2000 replacement. subsequently the horn stopped working which is quite a dangerous situation!). we hand't checked the wiper washers. also, less critically: the shutter function on the small button on the remote fixed itself, I don't know how. rear off-side passenger door got stuck; the thumping-while-unlocking trick worked. discovered but no solution yet: the agents say the lexia reports a fault code on the MAP sensor (and the car has cut out once or twice, but not recently); they've tried cleaning the MAP, and even tested with a MAP off another car, but the fault keeps reappearing. they're take on it is that it's likely a wiring error. one of the options discussed was getting an used wiring harness from a breaker (in UK)... would this be feasible (would probably work out cheaper than individually diagnosing/fixing wires)? if so, what harness should I be looking at getting? for the lights, washer, etc. it seems the main harness (6566.XW) but for the engine sensors I think it's the engine harness (part 6558.21 or .HZ or .NC depending on what I've got). for some reason breakers seem very reluctant to give out VINs of the cars they're breaking so it's going to be a challenge to find the right part :S the oil level/temp issue. could be the sensor or the wiring... Cars in Sri Lanka are very expensive due to the tax structure; excise duties were reduced earlier this year and some other taxes/depreciation mechanisms will reduce from next year; but still we're looking at ~200% tax on CIF prices on a petrol car with a 2.0 liter engine and much more for diesels. just to give an indication, a 406 D9 executive with about 100k kms on the meter would cost about 10,000 pounds. and even that's because european cars have a lower 2nd hand value. for a Corolla 110 (probably 3-4 years older, smaller engine, much less features, more mileage) the price would be similar. labour is not too bad, e.g. even at the agents it cost 16 pounds to replace brake discs; 15 pounds to replace com2000. at other garages it would be cheaper so they are an option for things not connected to the hydractive suspension. there's about 40% tax on spare parts; so that's why it's usually cheaper to get stuff from UK; but there are smuggled parts as well (for only slightly less than those who import clean) and occassionally the price difference is so marginal that it's better to get it locally. ok, thanks.

a few more points; I will probably be able to borrow a digital thermometer (contact type, not infra red) for the diagnostics. any suggestions where to test? the radiator inlet hose (outside temp!) could be one easily accessible place, but what about someplace on the engine that would be a suitable proxy for the coolant temp? I also wondered about a comparison with the engine oil temp guage (if the engine was overheating, shouldn't the oil also heat up?), but unfortunately that (and the level sensor) are no longer working. they both used to work, then the got to the level of working half the time (but it made up it's mind during switch-on, and AFAIK didn't change it's mind until restarted), and recently doesn't work at all. however I check oil on dipstick at least weekly and the level is fine. could this be another busted sensor/s? what sensor/s should I be looking at (haynes only refers to an oil level sensor, not a temp. sensor), service.citroen.com has an oil level probe 1131.E5; does that also measure the temp? or could it be that the BSI/wiring is acting funny (please also see other issue here) thanks a lot!

Hi! I had the following issues and got the Com2000 replaced 1. Airbag fault message (can clear, but usually reappears on steering wheel rotation) 2. Horn stopped working 3. Rear wiper doesn't rotate when set to wipe (apparently it didn't generate any signal from the switch) 4. Rear wiper does rotate when set to wash, but water appears only from front (even with a new washer pump) 5. Front washer mode rotates the wipers, but no water 6. Front fogs do not light (bulbs are physically OK, front fog indicator on dash comes on though; also rear fogs work as expected) After replacing the Com2000, 1. airbag fault is gone :) 2. horn is working :) 3. rear wiper rotates when set to wipe :) 4/5. rear washer drives water, front washer doesn't. not sure which side gets supplied but presume its the front, like before. garage has currently hooked up a t-joint in the plumbing so I get water from front and back. 6. front fogs work, but also activate the washer pump :) I think there is possibly some wiring issue (the fuse box had been replaced after it burnt out, and some wiring parts had been repaired) - perhaps the wiring to the washer is reversed (that's maye why the rear washer swtich supplied water to the front); but I suspect there's more to it: 1. why doesn't the front washer switch drive the washer pump (it does drive the blades though) 2. what's the connection between the fog and the washer pump (if there was a short, then the washer should activate the fog lights?) a local peugeot enthusiast suggest downloading firmware to the BSI... would this help? any suggestions how to go about this (the garage/agents were not aware of this option)

garage has lexia; I booked a time slot for thursday morning and can get it on the lexia then. obviously I have never done this before and probably garage hasn't either, so if you can explain a bit more what I should be looking for it would be appreciated. (e.g. should I let the engine cool down first? should I do it parked with transmission on P/N, or driving around? should I look to log the temp. reading against time? etc) temp sensor 1338.A7 and thermostat and 1338.A0 are available in Sri Lanka (20~25 pounds each); generally if the part is to be found on a pug then the part is available in Sri Lanka. although often it's proved cheaper to get it hand carried from UK. thanks

yes not quite; the timing belt is changed, they were given the water pump as well, but got foxed by the superceded part and so water pump was not changed at the time used for ~3 weeks without overheating, then waterpump was changed. then used for another 3~4 weeks without any overheating. the first time the overheating happened, it was during a hot day, stuck in traffic, with A/C. switching off A/C brought the temp display to normal (even in traffic) second time (2 days later), was at night, in the rain, stuck in traffic, with A/C. again swithing off A/C brought it under control. drove 80km on it a few days later, with A/C, but no traffic and no overheating. so it seemed to be due to the traffic and not the length of the drive. few days later overheating happend in traffic even with A/C off. resorted to switching off the engine. what had happened in the meantime was: changed front brakes and discs, flushed and replaced brake fluid, new front tyres. there was, and still is, some amount of brake binding, which maybe just due to new pads/discs, and/or the fact that the calipers need attention. more engine effort due to binding brakes could lead to overheating, but not clear why it didn't get under control when car is at standstill (engine idle) it was after this that I checked and topped up the coolant (it was still above the minimum level though); afterwards took it in to garage to check for leaks (no leaks - but they did flush and refill coolant for the check). the last time the overheating happened was after ~5km drive, no traffic, A/C was on initially but switched off somewhere in the middle (was a cold day by our standards), and just at the end of the journey I raised the car to get over a bad patch and it started to heat up. parked and left engine on idle a few mins (fan was running on high speed) and temp came down slowly. it was at this point that I tried touching the radiator hoses, etc. and it didn't seem unusually hot. (the garage also said this; even though the dash indicates overheating they can't find any evidence that the engine has actually overheated - no steam from the radiator cap, etc.)

hi Paul well, the car was imported brand new and service.citroen.com says it's for Dusty atmosphere, Asian radio, etc. so it's probably configured to be suited for our climate/conditions. will check on the possibility of smaller radiator although I doubt it (there's been plenty of idiotic things done on the car, but I guess a smaller radiator would manifest as constantly higher temperatures). thanks btw to explain the "imported brand new" comment - it's a common practice here to import used cars, so lots of used jap vehicles and also quite a few used 406s from the UK

Hi Coastline :) about a month, delay was in getting parts down from UK. Didn't use the car much - few short runs, maybe 200-300km in total. didn't have overheating problems before. water pump was actually replaced ~3 weeks later; there seems to be a practice in sri lanka of only replacing the half of the pump that has moving bits; but the part I got was a superceded part and the two halves didn't fit. was initially a bit foxed when the garage told me the pump didn't fit, but on further investigation understood the situation and got the new pump fitted in its entirety well, I suppose they know how to do it :) despite the eff-up with the water pump, the garage is actually the agent for citroen in Sri Lanka and have been trained by citroen (in singapore). of course when I topped up coolant I just opened the cover and poured it in, but I guess that's fine? anyway they flushed the coolant when I took it in after that to pressure the system and check for leaks so presumably it's OK. But I will double check just to confirm. the thermostat should open at 89 degrees. where is that compared to the ideal operating temp of the engine (EW10J4)? I'm asking cos if the ideal temp is close to 89, then it could be that the thermostat cuts in and out often and then if it sticks the overheating can occur. but if the ideal is much higher, it would mean the thermostat opens up at 89, and stays open all the time. in which case it would be strange to close at a higher temp? or do thermostats tend to fail in that way? currently it seems I can drive at least 5 km with A/C before the overheating manifests (and with the temperature indicator stable in the middle of the white zone for a while). would that be about par for a failing thermostat? thanks!

I can't set the temp to higher than 28 degrees, so I guess heating the cabin to cool the engine is not an option for me. car overheated again yesterday - from approximate (i.e. touch!) measurements, the heat (coolant reservoir, radiator inlet pipe) when the engine is overheating (almost red) and on normal (mid range) seems to be the same, so I'm inclined to suspect the temperature sensor. however I wasn't brave enough to try touching the engine so this doesn't completely rule out the thermostat... also fan was running at high speed even when the dash indicated overheat so I think that can be eliminated as the problem.

hard to say if the problem was pre-existing... car was due for a change on the timing belt so got it done as soon as I got the car. driving before that was minimal and the overheating issue is anyway intermittent. however, it ran fine for over a month afterwards without ever overheating, on both long and short trips, open roads and traffic. as the guage approaches the redzone the A/C is switched off in mine (the "Eco" light comes on) the engine does run at "normal" (midrange) for quite a while before it starts to shoot up; can it happen that the thermostat opens fully but then closes a bit? anyway, will try to get this done this week I've read about this in other places as well... not sure I understand how it helps - how does running the fan on max in the cabin help cool the engine? (btw this is in Sri Lanka and the car doesn't have a heater mode... unless maybe if I set the A/C temp to about 40 degrees and see if the car activates a heater instead of the A/C compressor. thanks; will see if I can find a infra-red thermometer but won't be holding my breath on that one :S I was at the garage when they were checking out the relays, there are only 2 - i.e. only 2 speeds on this model. and they say fan does switch to high speed (have got the relay contacts cleaned anyway) but I don't know if the relay is intermittently failing. one more thing, which leads me to suspect the temperature sensor rather than the thermostat... the engine is rough on cold - actually requires starting at least 2 times in the morning (usually 3), each time it runs a little longer than the last time. performance remains poor until the engine warms up. do you think it would help to get the sensor replaced? Thanks

I take it you are referring to this. I have no idea if it's good to use or not, but it's not the genuine product from Total - the original looks like this. I'd be very concerned about using non-genuine stuff cos the wrong oil can cause you a lot of grief - far more than the 10 pounds/liter you save. unless some experienced member here can vouch for this product I would suggest you stay away from it (worst case, you may have to flush and discard all the LDS in your system and use ~4 fresh cans) edit: on further investigation, that seems to be the old Total logo... so it's perhaps genuine but old. I don't know if LDS has a shelf life...? If your LDS level is too low you can generally still continue to use the car at normal height, but it won't work (or at least, won't work well) if you try to raise the car - that's when it needs the most LDS.

I have some symptoms of overheating, can anybody suggest what might be wrong? The car is a 2002 C5 2.0i Car has had timing belt and water pump changed recently and coolant renewed. The garage said they found an overheating problem when running with A/C so they flushed out the radiator to clear any residual muck but the problem apparently was with the radiator cap - it was replaced and things were fine. Then one day, 2~3 weeks ago, the car overheated in bad traffic (i.e. no in rush of air due to the vehicle movement) - that is to say, the temperature gauge went up to red zone and the stop sign came on. Running without A/C was OK. temp guage pretty firmly in middle ground. A few days later it again overheated in standstill traffic, and switching off the A/C brought the temp. done quite quickly... after a while turned A/C on again, works fine for few mins, then starts to heat up again, again turning off A/C reduces the temp. more recently, the probably has appeared in traffic even without A/C (I turned off the engine until the lights turned green), and has also appeared twice when not in traffic. as the problem seemed to be getting worse, I checked coolant levels and it was close to minimum - topped it up (about 650ml worth) but that didn't stop the problem from happening again. Garage also said that provided minimum level was present then the cooling system should work fine. Garage is at a loss to figure out what might be wrong. They've done a pressure test on the coolant circuit and there are no leaks. So was the loss due to release from the tank cap at overheating? on the other hand the garage haven't found any evidence of the engine actually overheating (so if it was a malfunctioning temperature sensor, what happened to the coolant?) Garage also confirms the cooling fan is working as expected (I can hear it running after switching off) and that the high speed mode is also functioning. today when the guage started to go up to the red zone, I pulled over, pipes to/from radiator were hot to the touch (so the thermostat had opened, although I don't know if it was open at that particular time), as was the expansion tank and the LDS tank next to it - but I don't know if that is the temperature they would be at if the engine was running normally. my suspicions are: 1. my front brakes have a binding problem (new pads, new discs, need to apply caliper repair kit). could the heat generated by the binding be screwing up something somewhere? will hopefully get the caliper repair kit applied next week, so if the problem disappears that would suggest this to be complicit 2. intermittent fault in the fan's high-speed relay 3. intermittent fault in the thermostat 4. intermittent fault in the temperature sensor is there any way I can check 1. the actual temperatures to see if there is a real difference when the guage says it's overheating? if I get a thermometer that I can carry around (electronic?) what places should I check temperature at? 2. if the thermostat is open at any particular instant - if the pipes near radiator were cold, it would mean it had never opened... but what if it opened, but got stuck later? i.e. is there a way to see if there is a flow of coolant in/out of the radiator? 3. if the fan is on high-speed or low-speed? while the engine is running it's hard to guess from the sound of the fan, but I guess I should feel a difference in the airflow behind the radiator? thanks!

Hi Chris That link doesn't work (maybe it did when you posted it though). I have a C5 2.0i 2002 in Sri Lanka and it does have an inline fuel filter... or at least service.citroen.com tells me so - see http://sifaan.almostunreal.org/fuelfilter.png Most probably for you guys in UK the diagram will be the same but the part number for the fuel filter will not be listed... (assuming that the part is included only for harsh environments)

Thanks, Sean was indeed a mine of information, got quite a lot of info on Comm 2000s and some advice on possibilities of trying an alternate part. However, he also wasn't able to do the cross reference; this has been done - when the fuel pump in the car turned out to be not the one that it should've had, and Citroen technical (via the dealer) did give me a part number from the reference tag number. But I can't see my that I could get several Comm 2000 reference numbers checked that way.

Hi! Is there a 1-to-1 correspondence between citroen part numbers (nnnn.aa) and tag numbers (96nnnnnnaa) (n=0-9; a=0-9 plus a-z)? Or is it possible to have several tag numbers for the same part number? I'm searching for a Comm 2000 unit (part 6242.F9, tag number on current unit is 96477536XT) and tried (so far unsuccessfully) to find a unit on ebay. There are quite a few units pulled from cars, for which only the tag number is available, and I'm wondering if one of those would work. (BTW is there some reason breakers refuse to divulge the VIN? If I could get that at least I could check what the part number was) Alternately, would it work if I matched by specifications (i.e. from a C5 1st gen (for a different car might mean different size?), Delphi, automatic wiper, rear wiper/washer, no headlamp washer, automatic headlamps, front+rear fogs, no cruise control, etc.)? Thanks /Sifaan

Hi! My fuel pump was giving problems (esp. not starting in the morning unless I moved the seat and gave the fuel pump a few taps) and I had to replace it. I checked on service.citroen.com, and found that the fuel pump for my car (based on VIN) was 1525.KH, which I ordered (cost ~120 pounds). The car is a 2002 year 2.0 petrol (EW10J4 engine). When the pump arrived (to Sri Lanka) I took it to the garage and it turned out the pump was different to what I had (the guage was on the other side, and the old pump had a mechanical fuel pressure regulator that the new one doesn't have). The citroen site doesn't show that the part had been superceded. When I checked from the long part number (the 96 xxx xxx 80) on the old pump, I was told that the corresponding part was 1525.Q6, which had been superceded by 1525.NS. This pump costs ~175 pounds. Be that as it may, the 1525.KH pump seems to be working... given that the car's maintenance has been a bit iffy, I'm not ruling out the possibility that someone fitted a similar pump (the 1525.Q6) rather than try to find the original. Especially as Q6 is available where I live (Sri Lanka) and KH was not. Can anyone shed some insight on this? Could the citroen website be wrong? Does anyone with a EW10J4 know what the part number for their fuel pump is (preferably someone who has actually replaced the fuel pump, just in case their is something wrong with the site) Thanks!

I have similar symptoms (as well as few others) and in my case the fuel pump is packing up... could be the cause of your problems as well

Hi all I have a C5 (1st Gen) with Rain-Sense wipers and shutters. Are the shutters only supposed to work with ignition on? Or is it a fault in my car? Car is parked outside at work in the sun, and would love to keep the shutters down a bit (the levels offered by the 3rd button on the keyfob) to keep the car cool, but seems like the rain sense shutters only work with the ignition on (don't want to risk the car getting wet in case of a sudden drizzle) Thanks /Sifaan