argoose

broken wire at door hinge is my bet too. you cant see break as the insulation hides it only way to check for sure is with multi meter, you can try manipulating the wires going into door whilest the operating switch if you get a tiny bit of movement then you know its the wire :)

when I brought car it came with little credit card for the key info this has a 5 digit code, and in the handbook it says to keep it safe because the service techies need it to work on immobilizer and ecu. If this is lost new ecu is needed

the gearboxes on most of the cars I have seen, if you take the passenger side wheel off you should see two plugs (bolts with square holes) the filler/Level plug is the normally close to the drive shaft. The drain plug is on the main part of the gearbox housing at the lowest point. Both mine have magnets on them to catch swarf in the oil, give these a wipe over. As for the amount of oil that's what the filler/level is for, add oil until it starts to dribble out, make sure the car is as level as possible, 2 ltr sounds about right. Most car shops sell the square ended wrench. It,s not a hard job just fiddly

Lo, if you have changed the track rod ends you'll need the steering tracked. Before you change the rack check your bottom suspension ball joints for ware and if they are seized. With the gear box change the oil and I've heard molyslip is quite good. But if that fails sounds like worn synchros, which means recon box soz

Hi both, Read topic through, you said that your battery runs down in only a few days. Battery should take weeks to drain to the point it wont start the car. If the battery is so drained even a jump start may not work. Have you put a new head unit in, it might need the two supply feeds changing round. easy to check, if the preset radio stations do not work then the radio is constantly on, draining your battery and putting you in eco mode. The bad earth is another likely culprit. give them all a good squirt of wd40, or similar, any that look rusty, slacken off and give them a scrub with wire/toothbrush and extra squirt. Also check battery terminals, give them a rub over with fine emery paper and a light coat of petroleum jelly. Let us know how you get on

hi, having problem with coolant temp gauge, warming up as normal, but then drops back to 1/4 raises back to half does this for 10 mins then after it drops just below half and back again, does this constantly. never goes more than a fraction over half, fan works fine, heater output fine, new sensor new rad/expansion cap (same syptoms before changed them), not lost any coolant since coolant flush, change before christmas. I changed thermostat when I changed coolant, working on theory that just because it's new dont mean it's good, that's my next point of call. Any other help will be gratefully recieved.

cheers mate, most insurance is a rip off. Always said if you have to have insurance by law, then it should be run by the government, like road tax. Would put a stop to legalised scam system in place now :blink:

Hi, just to let you know had to buy one for my lads saxo, got it from main dealer £7.

DO NOT touch the spark plug at the front of the engine! That is your lambda sensor. Plugs are located at back of engine block after removing coil pack, just below and in front of throttle body

Hi, gf has a c2, she had fault on steering, found out the speed sensor in gearbox had gone. Sorted most faults, but still had steering fault once after changing sensor. When looking for fixes found that the ECU sometimes gets a dirty signal and freaks out, also there is a torque sensor on the steering column, what I did was disconnect battery turn steering wheel back and forth for a short time, reconnect battery. no problem for over six months now. Don't think it is a cure but a fix. If it goes again think I'll spray ECU contacts with electrical connector cleaner. As last resort Ecu change. Just a thought is there any way you can borrow ECU of good friend, or local scrappy

Another thing I found to improve fuel was to change from tesco to total/texeco, only a couple of pence more but car runs a lot happier and get better mpg to cover the pennies. Also heard good things about "cataclean". A good mate used it on a land rover disco, said it really sharpened the engine up

pmsl

Hi stevemc, you didnt mention tyre pressures' are brakes in good order, lots of little things can alter mpg most not for the better. even down to dirty car causing more air drag, that's why F1 cars are highly polished, every little helps. best start with tyres, brakes and check exhaust, I got y reg xsara 1.4 petrol doing about 38mpg round town. Plus cars always drop a few mpg in cold weather. Hope this helps. P.S. bung a drop of redex in tank. Might help, wont harm :)

when were the plugs changed last, have you checked the condition of them, are they all nice light tan or are any oily,sooty,white cracked centre core or even the gap too large

Hi, Wonder if anyone can help, I have what appears to be oil leak on the sump gasket. Bolts were bit loose, after nipping them up still seeping. Has anyone changed the sump gasket, if so did you have to completely remove exhaust or can I get away with disconnecting mid box to get a little wiggle room? Thanks in advance :)

Hi, I'm sure if you put the fault code into your search engine it will give you a few results. Think obd codes are pretty standard across the board, and if it is a citroen specific code that should come up to.

Hi, I brought a maxscan on ebay for £65 works well gave same fault on a c2 as the citroen dealer. Pity it didn't come back earlier would have saved me trip to the dealer. Lent it to a mate he's got intermitant fault on his bmw. But every time rac turn up it's working again, so he trying scanner. Let you know how it goes.