Bassrock

Ok, All, sorted :D :D On the battery negative terminal sits the BECB module (battery monitor (this is the PRIMARY source for the "secured battery voltage"). On the positive terminal sits a tag with cable assembly bolted to the +Ve supply of the battery and ultimately to the BECB. Disconnect +Ve tag on +ve post, BSI then takes its "secured battery voltage" (compares it with a battery voltage from elsewhere) from ABS/EBS or elsewhere if it cannot see that derived from the BECB. Guess what "secured voltage matches" battery voltage and haven't had a fault intimated for 4 days. All I need to do now is find the root cause fault in the power supply harness. Basically, because the BECB was receiving the wrong/intermittent supply voltage it was telling the BSI incorrect voltage values and the BSI re-acted accordingly, however the BSI voltage was at battery voltage e.g 14.2 volts when charging but was being comped with the incorrectly generated voltage from the BECB.. Happy days :D , Oh no whats that noise from the electric steering pump, quick trip to supply guys for some steering fluid and problem solved phew, another near miss.....

Hi All, Odd bod of a fault, as follows:- So, I have a 2010, 2.0Hdi X7 Estate, which has the BECB module (BOSCH 9664448980) attached to the battery negative terminal. Every so often (mostly in the morning after 5 minutes of driving (every 3 or 4 days or so) I get the battery charge warning along with the dong, dong, dong gong, it then disappears and isn't seen for another 3-4 days. I have a DMM attached at point of failure which tells me alternator is kicking out around 14.2V This started last year (would happen once every so often e.g. every 3 - 6 weeks, but now frequency has increased) and since then, alternator, battery, and BECB have been changed, intermittent fault remains. The BECB was changed by a garage as I gave up trying to fault find (at that time I had no decent diagnostic device). They said the BECB was reporting incorrectly to the BSI, so £200 later fault still the same. So happens, I now have access to a Foxwell NT644, it tells me the battery voltage is 12.2V (reported BECB ECU) but when measured at the battery is 14.2V, so I have a 2V error. But the BSI reports voltage as 14.2V and a secure battery voltage of 12.2V, Now, where does this 12.2V "secure battery voltage" come from ?????? So any ideas ??????????????, think I'm homing in the right direction though ! Any help much appreciated.

I've had similar problem, the wiring "fray" at the tailgate, top left if standing at rear of car, remove screws and plastic trim, you should easily spot the "chewed wiring". If this is the case, use new long lengths of wire into the boot wall area, do not just try to repair/solder/tape the damaged areas, it will fail after a couple of weeks.

Thank you Paul Yip, read the posts, if you ever find a "simple" way of removing the loctite, especially when it's impossible to remove the bolts through the calipers (within a reasonable timeframe), then I will be most impressed.

Rear disks, check surfaces for unusal wear patterns, check caliper not touching or almost touching disk, this is a sign of galvanic corrosion between swinging arm mount and caliper, corrosion forces caliper away from mounting surface, bending caliper towards disk. Sod to fix, as the bolts become extremely hard to undo, once you do eventually remove the caliper you have to file the caliper surface flat (remove corrosion), then "grind" corrosion from mounting surface, then (oh joy) put everything back together again (and the bolts will be a pain to line up and tighten), how do I know, I've just spent 8 soddin hours cleaning both the rears on mine !!!!%^£%^£%%$^£$%^£$%^£$%^£%. Rear window (Estate), check if the glass window lifts up using switch on rear wiper assembly, if it does great, if it doesn't don't worry it's a pain anyway, many have a will of there own and would open when driving down the road, i've disconnected the actuator that operates mine. Lights, brake lights especially, the bulb holders are crap (change them), they also corrode, so check all rear lights. Front lights ,ask how often the halogens blow, fix (fit 360 led side light bulbs) cured my halogens popping. (oh halogens can be changed by yourself, it's just a tight squeeze. Check driver and passenger footwells for signs of dampness, I have a solution for that too (if someone want's to know I'll write war and peace). Check plastic engine cover under bonnet one or more of the 4 studs holding the cover will be broken, citroen charge £5 a pop for areplacemt, I've found good quality super glue works. More:- Check tyres especially fronts for uneven tyre wear, tracking could be out. Find a C5 that does not have "solid wheel hubs" (eg. no hole in centre of wheel), absolute sod to find places that have the proper adaptor to balance these wheels, even if they do I doubt they do it properly. When test driving make sure no steering wobble, could be wheel balance prob or if braking a disk warped/caliper corrosion problem. When turning left or right make sure no vibration as this could be worn track rods (inner). Check the handbrake releases properly, the lever should have no slackness, if it does one of the front caliper handbrake mechanisms is gubbed. I'm tired sfter 8 hours of caliper bashing, if i think of anything later, will let you know.

Hi there, I'm on my second 2ltr C5 Estate, so here is a few thing to look for:- Rear disks, check surfaces for unusal wear patterns, check caliper not touching or almost touching disk, this is a sign of galvanic corrosion between swinging arm mount and caliper, corrosion forces caliper away from mounting surface, bending caliper towards disk. Sod to fix, as the bolts become extremely hard to undo, once you do eventually remove the caliper you have to file the caliper surface flat (remove corrosion), then "grind" corrosion from mounting surface, then (oh joy) put everything back together again (and the bolts will be a pain to line up and tighten), how do I know, I've just spent 8 soddin hours cleaning both the rears on mine !!!!%^£%^£%%$^£$%^£$%^£$%^£%. Rear window (Estate), check if the glass window lifts up using switch on rear wiper assembly, if it does great, if it doesn't don't worry it's a pain anyway, many have a will of there own and would open when driving down the road, i've disconnected the actuator that operates mine. Lights, brake lights especially, the bulb holders are crap, they also corrode, so check all rear lights. Front lights ,ask how often the halogens blow, fix (fit 360 led side light bulbs) cured my halogens popping. (oh halogens can be changed by yourself, it's just a tight squeeze. Check driver and passenger footwells for signs of dampness, I have a solution for that too. Check plastic engine cover under bonnet one or more of the 4 studs holding the cover will be broken, citroen charge £5 a pop for areplacemt, I've found good quality super glue works. More:- Check tyres especially fronts for uneven tyre wear, tracking could be out. Find a C5 that does not have "solid wheel hubs" (eg. no hole in centre of wheel), absolute sod to find places that have the proper adaptor to balance these wheels, even if they do I doubt they do it properly. When test driving make sure no steering wobble, could be wheel balance prob or if braking a disk warped/caliper corrosion problem. When turning left or right make sure no vibration as this could be worn track rods (inner). Check the handbrake releases properly, the lever should have no slackness, if it does one of the front caliper handbrake mechanisms is gubbed. I'm tired sfter 8 hours of caliper bashing, if i think of anything later, will let you know.

I've had P1352 on my car for the last 2 years (Ok, it's the only code I've got listed, but car runs sweet), I therefore think you can forget about this one wrt your particular prob.

Well, thank you for your advice, have had a good few gallons of rain poured over the car since I last posted and it ain't leaked since. Sorted, superb. Cheers

Ok, you were correct, mearly sealing the scuttle panel failed, as the first sign of rain the footwell was soaking again. So I removed scuttle panel and removed air intake grill cover. To find that (bottom left hand side area ish) between inside of air intake and bulkhead were gaps, so any water which did enter through air intake would go down the inside of the bulkhead rather than down through the air intake. Simple eh !!, stupid design, so I've sealed the inside of the air intake and created cover over the air intake but not enough to restrict flow, this will stop any water that seeps through the wiper arm or windsrceen into the air intake and any water that rises up will flood the air intake chamber !! arrgh (hopefully not) Any way at least I can now remove/replace scuttle panel, air intake grill and windscreen wiper motor. So hope that;s it cured. Time will tell.

Thank you for your response. I have spotted that the drivers wiper blade does not have the grommet that the passenger side has, so next step is to find suitable grommet and seal. Looks like someone has been here before !! Lugs, yes I removed the cap and screw, but felt if I pulled down the clip would break. I'll see if the sealing of RHS wiper blade and top of scuttle panel have any effect prior to going down the removal of scuttle panel. Now, I cannot trace any water leak above the point where steering column goes through bulhead. (I've lifted/cut insulation to determine). I have removed the pollen filter and it's completely dry, If water was entering through air intake, would the filter not be wet or is the water leak you mention more devious ! So, we will see how this progresses !

I have been getting water (yes water, not condensate, not any other substance) in the drivers footwell (only). Have traced leak as far as the steering column bulkhead shroud "area", but still don't precisely know where the water is coming from. Only appears after a rain fall, and I aint perfected the technique of driving with my head between my ankles and head rotated by 180 degrees. Now I have silicone sealed the shroud all round between bulkhead and shroud (absolute sod). I also noticed "rust" on the inner pin of the coupling (strange), so I've greased in between, in case external rain water is being driven through (which I feel might be a red herring). Anyway tried to remove scuttle panel to peek in between bulkhead, wipers and screws etc removed succesfully, but: there is two little "ears" where your bonnet hinges are that need to come off first, they are attached to each of the wings. I can see a pin that locks them to the wing, but cannot figure out how to remove. Any help much appreciated.

I've had 2 C5's and every 6 months I remove and clean, first C5 I had, had exactly the same problem you mention, took 1.5 hours to remove and clean. Thereafter, after regular 6 or so month clean up, no problems

hi all, It's a glitch, mine does it occasionallly, I just reverse, straighten up and park again. Chances of a "highly" skilled citroen tech fixing this at less than £65 per hour are Zilch. Just live with it. Bassrock

Also check rear suspension, if it creaks or cracks when you bounce it up or down , more than likely rear swinging arm bearing or bearings gone kaput (near side or offside, sometimes hard to tell due to noise reverberating through rear support box frame). Fault normally confirmed by witness marks on inside outside edge of tyre due to camber caused by collapse of bearing in respective arm. Bassrock

Stuart, Yep, screen diagnostics you speak of are the standard codes as per your manufacturers handbook e.g fill up screen water, brake pad wear, ABS fault, low oil etc.. these are all displayed on screen as and when they fail. Its the ECU onboard diagnostics I'm interested in, I narrowed protocol to KWP2000 (pin out on OBD connector determines that one, but any KWP2000 device I've tried don't appear to work, so must be a protocol -3, -2 or -1 etc or somewhere in between. If you get any further let me know. Cheers Bassrock