Gilbern Invader

Yes what a pain in the b..e, Unless you see one off the car its very difficult to see how its fixed in place so careless inexperienced mechanics tend to just pull them out and break the clips, at least the bloke who broke yours put it back most get thrown in the bin with the engine undertray - no corner uncut!

If you are an AA member or suchlike try calling them next time it won't go and get them to do a diagnotic, similar problems with our 807 was due to a failing camshaft sensor, difficult to change as has to be done by feel with eyes closed and don't drop its little securing screw.

A weak battery can cause this, the BSI turns the hazard lights on as a safety feature (I think). Before buying a new battery check the battery connections, most important is the negative lead connection to the body. Lift the battery cover and trace the - lead to the 10mm bolt holding it to the chassis under the carpet under the drivers feet. Use a 10mm spanner to undo and tighten it while holding the lead tight so you don't disconnect the battery, Has to be the most likely candidate as the BSI must be suffering a voltage drop so it can't be the connections to the starter or engine earth strap. Thats £25 please for the diagnosis - only joking xx

Lift out the window/mirror switch block and disconnect the wiring plugs. Remove the screws along the bottom (one is behind the reflector I think) and the screw in the centre finger pull underneath the round plug. Ease out the panel from the bottom and work up both sides, unclip the wiring connectors and the wire pull to the door open handle and lift up and off. Bolt securing wing mirror is behind insulation.

Don't think its possible to pre bleed the system and its difficult to get all the air out, I used an Ezibleed with a bicycle pump connected to it instead of the spare tyre. Don't let the reservoir go dry, don't go above 20 psi and get someone to pump the brake pedal as well. Each time you start bleeding you must start the engine otherwise you are wasting your time!

I recall someone on the peugeot website had this problem, turned out to be dry the cross shaft to the master cylinder sticking in the bearings. Can't rember how he got access to lubricate them

Don't understand how both doors won't work maybe its the same fault. On ours the problem was with the door lock mechanism, an internal spring had become weak so that the rod connected to the outside handle wasn't being returned to the lock after use so the lock wouldn't reset. Get some cardboard and put it on the floor and up the wall. Open one of the doors and put a timber block underneath, with a helper unscrew the 3 fixings and take the door inside and put on the cardboard. Take off the door card and push the rod from the external handle back towards the lock, you should then find the handle operates the lock. Off to the motor factors and buy a couple of light throttle return springs, then with coat hanger wire and tie wraps attach the spring to the rod to help it return then put door back on. If this offends you could always buy a new lock...... but this cheap and nasty fix has worked OK for the last 3 years.

Before replacing sensor would be worth disconnecting rubber pipes to it one at a time (don't get them mixed up!) and blowing down them to confirm they are not blocked with soot from the exhaust.

Vacuum sensor close to DPF follow rubber pipes to it, just behind battery box. Check exhaust temp sensor is connected as well, between DPF and CAT,

You have to find how the water is getting in, are the wheelarch liners and engine undertray in place? Has the fusebox by the battery got wet? My guess is a leak around a replacement windscreen or maybe rooflights? Water on the large multiplug connector(s) on the A post by the BSI will cause a non start.

Steering wheel fits in one place only on the column, at least thats on my 2003 807, square it by adjusting the track rods. I am with you on tyre centres checking tracking, last time I had it done I asked the fitter what setting he was using, parallel was the answer, but I said its FWD must toe in a little, no we set all cars to parallel thats what Michelin reccomend. Big intake of breath from me, off we go to see the manager who pulls out a dusty book to confirm what I was saying, and it turned out there was a glimmer of truth in what the fitter was saying in that Michelin apparently say that the tracking should be set to the parallel end of the tracking range for the car. I realised afterwards that the fitter couldn't read hence the reluctance to open the book! I wrote in saying they should invest in some training for the lad but the response was unhelpful.

If symptoms persist think the DPF system is regenerating randomly. You need someone with Lexia to check the regeneration log to confirm and what is causing it to do it so often. Could be the exhaust temp sensor is not connected or its wire is broken. Sensor is vulnerable mounted between cat and dpf.

Camshaft sensor is favourite but difficult to change as well hidden, has to be done with eyes closed if you see what I mean and don't drop the little screw! How about joining the AA or RAC? At least you will get a free diagnostic the next time it won't go.

No need to remove the subframe the gearbox can be supported from the tubular wing brace on a length of rope then rotated and slid into the gap between subframe and chassis leg to allow the new clutch to be fitted. Suggest you try and locate a garage that has experience of doing the job which will make it an economic repair, best.

Think you must have the wrong driveshaft, they just slide into place, can you compare it with the original?