ZXCharlieR

All done, thanks for the help! Admin please delete or archive!

Hi Guys, Here I am again and my dilemma is obvious through the title of this topic. I have managed to get everything back on the car, I just need to know where the vacuum lines go now to finish her and see if she satrts!! Could someone possible go out of their way to take some photos or if any of you have a vacuum diagram so I can see and locate each line then I would be most grateful, I have done everything else and it seems all good, getting the vacuum lines in would complete the process to see if she will start!! Bit of background: My mechanic threw his toys out of his pram (stole some of the parts for his neighbour and left me in deep doodoo with the whole family) so I continued the project myself to find parts missing and broken!!! Here's a few photos of before and after: Here's how I had it back from the mechanic: http://i59.tinypic.com/2ihuvex.jpg Here's the engine after I had put some of the anciliiaries back on: http://i57.tinypic.com/szxyzb.jpg Here's how it looks now in need of the vacuum piping installed: http://i60.tinypic.com/904n4i.jpg It is urgent as I need this car up and running by tuesday or we end up going on holiday in a Scenic!!! yes, our trusty little Scenic but 4 adults and 1 baby with a roof box!! I will go mentally insane if I have the mother in law that close!! Thanks in advance guys!

The whole idea was to keep the original engine in it, that way it stays authentic, and I know for sure how many miles the car (engine) has done! I bought this second hand engine from a scrap yard in Birmingham and now regret it but it's going in whether I like it or not! Injector removal is expensive but I am going to slowly rebuild the spare engine and sell it on to recoup some of my loses, I have had a quote of £150 via hydraulic method so.... that's the way I am going to go! Thanks for the help again!

No stripping heads any more as the injectors will not come out.

OK, this is what I have found: The engine is an absolute B#@*$ to work on, the injectors are almost impossible to get out (this is still pending after days of trying) and the design is the biggest muck up I have ever seen! OK, rant over, I have seen that the valves are vertical and that the outlet valves seem to be fine so I now have to get the injectors out yes or yes to have a look at the inlet valves and see where the damage is if it IS in the head, if not, I will cry. I have picked up the drip tray/rain water diversion thingy that clips onto the water reservoir and will be installed along with everything else when we put the engine back in. My new (my god does it look like it's done 200k miles and not 70k as advertised) engine arrived today and all I could say was "Well, we have a head to go on my engine", I bought it from a company that call themselves "coventry_parts" on ebay, PM Car Parts Ltd of Coventry, CV6 4BT, just to advise anyone thinking of buying anything from them, I wouldn't, ever again, I mean, not a wiper blade. I can assure yu that this engine has done a LOT more mileage than that of the advertisement on ebay (silly me buying a scrap engine off of ebay, I know, but I would not rely on that thing in my car!) so I decided that the head, in good condition, is the one we shall use for the transplant. So, the plan as it stands: Strip the head from the new engine Strip the head from the old engine Transplant Cams, Springs and rockers to the old engine, put it all back together, put the new drip tray rain water thingy on and hopefully we shall have a car up and running by the weekend! Will keep you posted!

Hi John, The coding is not the problem, I have been reading up and because they are so hard to remove from the car they have a tendency to stretch, hence why second-hand injectors are useless if they have been removed by hydraulic method. Hopefully Steve can shed some light on it for me later. Thanks again!

Hi John, Thanks mate, I have found someone to do it but I have to take the whole engine to them, it's not an issue as I have a dolly and a van so ... I do however have a query, after extensive pulling, surely the injectors would be useless? I have read that they are deemed unusable due t o being stretched in the process, how do I know if a second hand injector has been stretched then? what should I be looking out for? apart from dimensions! Thanks again for your help!

Hi John, The cam shafts seem fine, it's the rocker arms that are really wobbly (read somewhere that it is normal for them to be somewhat loose but there are a few that are a lot tighter than others), in my opinion I think that it is what has broken, from what I can see with the engine out anyway. IF I can get the injectors out, I will update! Thanks again

Thanks mate, much appreciated, well worth every penny I'd say as it would save on future cam belt bills! To give you all an update, I have tried getting the car to start with a new cam belt in and it just juddered all the time, no spark! I now have the engine out and decided to see if the head was OK but, yes, you guessed it, the injectors will not come out! they have even started threading my mechanics tool!! I am in Swansea in South Wales if there is anyone that can help me I would really appreciate it as I am now completely stuck! I would have bought new injectors but I can't get the head off, any suggestions? please? my mechanic has the engine sitting on a block, the car on the ramp and now is "buggered" if he takes on any work as he can't take the car down. Again, many thanks to you all for the help so far, very much appreciated indeed!

OK, I wrote that from my mobile so autocorrect kicked in and made me look .... I wanted to "feel", not "fest". "cam pulley" not "can pulley" sorry for that!

OK, so I got the cam belt covers off but I am now bewildered, I don't have the pistons at tdc because I wanted to fest something first, if I turn the can pulley and it feels pretty must b free, would that ad use that the valves are in tact? The issue I have is that I have turned many bike engines by hand and when it feels like the valves pop and slot back into position with a quick rotary bounce on the pulley, this would indicate functional valves, correct? Hope someone can help as my mechanic is hell bent on swapping engines!! Thanks again!!

I honestly haven't had the time to do much as when you have to work weekends and have a baby (and an hysterical wife because it's the baby's 1st birthday!). I think I am going to see what I can do tomorrow, the baby is with the childminder so ... I think first port of call is to put a cam belt on with everything aligned and then see if it locks or makes any funny noises, if it does then attack the engine change I shall. Thanks again!

OK, this is where my sincere lack of 100% confidence in my mechanic ... I have asked if we should take the engine out and replace the parts that, well, may or may not be broken and inspect for a rebuild that will, with any luck, be just a top end, I mean, how much harm can be done by taking a look, what if it were all pretty much straight? I ask this because when I suggested that I buy another engine to replace the current engine, he looked at me and suggested that we take a look to see if the head can be redone, then all of a sudden he remembered the engine type and said for me to go with the recon engine. What would you do in my situation? Thanks again guys, much appreciated!

Thanks John, I have read that Citroen have rectified this design floor with a drip tray that extends over the cam belt cover assuring this does not reoccur, would anyone have a part number for this by any chance? Thanks again!

Already found an engine, ok it's a bare one but it comes with warranty and done the same mileage as my car, now to see if the car will turn over, if not, backup plan in place!

Hi, I have heard terrible stories but one person wrote a good little memo on it, you have to scrape at them and then prize out slowly, I have the time but I am thinking of just getting another engine and going from there. I confirmed the engine details with Citroen this morning as to find the engine code was a bit of a task, definitely the DW12TED4 so C5's, 406/7's, 807's etc have all the same engine and essentially should just be a straight-forward job, well, more so than a rebuild. Here are a couple of photos of how easy it was for me to pull one end of my broken cam belt out from the gap I made to look. ( edit 7/10/2017 photos no longer available using the link provided) I can see that most of the wear is on the reverse side of the belt, is this normal? You can actually identify the teeth of the belt from the back. Whichever way I look at it, it may be completely smashed inside but for the sake of £20 I am going to get another belt and turn it over by hand, see if it all moves with no ticking or horrible noises, if so then it may just be salvageable! Thanks for the help guys but may I ask 1 more favor? Could you keep your ears to the ground for a cheap engine as you may have different circles and may just get me back on the road quicker because I now have 2 weeks to get her ready to run a few weeks to see if she'll do a trip to France for us. I am no way getting rid of her, if you had a pig that saved you and your families lives on several occasions, would you eat it all at once?,I wouldn't, I would cut a leg off but give it a broom handle to keep it going!! :) Thanks again!

OK, Just prized the cover to one side and yes, it's the Cam/Timing Belt! It is loose but I haven't progressed enough to see whether it has snapped but I suppose that if it is loose, then it's broken somewhere!! I will however take some photos and let you guys see, that'll be better than putting everything into words! Now to wonder if it has done any damage to the internals, some pointers would be great on spot checks I can do to test without having to strip the head off. Many thanks again!

Thanks for the info, something I am pondering over after my look tomorrow is whether I get those parts to crack on and at least eliminate the risk of return. Then again, I have read that it may just be the software on the BSI going a bit silly and making false codes come up, on the other hand I have to query it due to the initial fault. Ideally I would like to see if the timing belt is still in tact as if it were broken then I would be looking at a hefty bill (wasn't me driving so I didn't get a chance to notice any noises as all this happened). I have looked at a few of the parts that you have mentioned and there are a few cheap ones out there but I am going to go for a Gates Timing Kit and a new actuator, I have also seen in Germany they do a swirl valve repair kit. A bit of good news, both key fobs responded and now work, opening doors, lock, unlock, etc. as well as the alarm is now working! :) I know I didn't mention the key fobs before nor the alarm but now it seems relevant! :blink: Slowly but surely!! Many thanks again!

Thanks for the info, much appreciated! The car just stopped in mid journey and wouldn't start again, everything just died, the worst thing was that the battery was new not 6 months ago but I somehow feel that the garage didn't follow the sequence they should have during replacement which might have mucked it all up (BSI). I will have a good look at everything on Wednesday. Thanks again.

Very good point, sorry all. Citroen C8 2.2 HDI Executive CC 2003 with 64,000 miles No service history just all old MOT's to backup the mileage Battery voltage was oscillating between 11.6 and 11.7 so a bit low, I have put it on charge overnight and it is brand new. Plugged in and looked, it came up with those errors, reset, still won't start As for the freeze frame, not looked at as the software I have is, well, basic! I am thinking it's the BSI unit as after trying several times the central overhead door controls started to work and in fact still are. The controls for the windows, sunroof, doors (on the pillars), Climate control, etc are still non working, maybe as you have said, in ECO mode so all functions like these are disabled until the engine starts. I was thinking of replacing the whole lot (ECU, BSI, Keys and FOBs, etc) but I have a fear that there will be a missing option because it won't be from the same model, but that's something to look at if all else fails. Thanks again

Hi again, I managed to read the error codes via OBDII P0020 P0025 P0026 I am about to hunt the internet but any insight or previous experiences with these codes and solutions? Thanks again!

Forgot to mention, when I try to start he she the hazard lights come on. Immo maybe?

Hi John and thanks for that! Didn't work but was well worth a try. I almost catches but I can't open the window to access the car in that way so I have had to sit in it. Is there any other way of doing this as I am not sure if I am causing it to confuse itself through the alarm sensors or something relative? Would it be possible to do this with a scanner resetting something or is there any other way apart from taking it to the main stealer? Thanks again

Hi mate, Thanks for that, sounded somewhwere along those lines as I have been studying other people's scenarios. I will try this tomorrow and let you know if it cured the situation. Deleted? Did I do something wrong?

Hey everyone, I am new here so please be gentle, :) !! I have mentioned this in chris666's post about his electrics and it may just be related to his topic but just in case, I thought I'd post my own to not step on anyone's feet. I have the following symptoms: Display (SatNav version) comes on and stays on for about 30 seconds, even when you use it but then shuts down quickly Engine management light is on None of the fob's buttons work None of the sunroofs open Car locks, opens and turns over with the key but nothing more, won't start No fans or climate control The sliding door close buttons on the pillars don't work None of the electric windows work Forgot to mention that the key fobs seem dead as a dodo, no power what so ever! but I can't confirm that without the car locking from the fob, sort of a catch 22! Any feedback would also be really appreciated and if you get it fixed please let me know what your solution was. Thanks in advance