rfhspares

I did change my swirl valve and it made no difference for me. I then changed a couple of the vacuum solonoids and made no difference. I changed the maf and it worked perfectly for 2 weeks. I changed the map sensor and still no good. I put my old maf in and left the new map sensor in and I also played with the hot/cold throttle body flaps by taking the hoses off and moving them by hand inside the plastic housing and it's been perfect ever since. My thoughts are that it was either the map sensor failing or the flaps inside the throttle body sticking.

I thought it might only move this short distance but I watched the rod that isn't connected to anything and it seems to have more travel than this lever has. For the time being I have positioned the lever downwards which I think is in its open position and I have plugged the vacuum hose as I was thinking the diaphram may also be damaged and causing leakage. Have experimented a little today and it seems to be running better with it how it is but definitely not right still. I know the diaphram solenoid is broken so I have to start with this and hopefully that's all it needs.

Thabks for your help. Found that the plastic ball on the swirl diaphragm valve is broken so it isn't lifting the lever at all. When I lift the lever by hand it doesn't seem to move very far and seems to seize up. Once it's up it takes a bit of force to push it back down. Maybe the reason the plastic broke. Anyone else had problems with the lever getting tight and is it just a matter of lubricating it when it's in bits. Looks fiddly to get to with lots in the way.

Car starts and drives seemingly normal on the flat under low loads. If I hit a big hill or accelerate hard higher than 3000rpm I have no power,feels like it bogs down like a huge flat spot in power. no eml comes on. Although no eml showing, a Fault code does shows on the snap-on tool p0026, intake valve control solonoid circuit range/performance bank 1. Reading other forums I am sure the fault is either 1 of the 4 turbo boost electro valves with the vacuum hoses attached or its the swirl diaphram or plastic clip that I think breaks a lot. Can anyone tell me which 1 of the 4 turbo boost things is most likely and are they all exactly the same component and swappable? I will try and see of the swirl diaphram is working but it looks difficult to see let alone remove. Ps: the eml does come on if I disconnect the maf sensor so the eml is actually working but the fault I have is obviously not effecting something within the emissions. I also do get a message every now and again saying esp/asr not functioning but I don't know if it's related. Thanks in advance

Alarm hasn't gone off at all for the last week. Only thing I have done is clean all the electrical contacts with emery cloth on both sliding doors and I sprayed switch cleaner in to the ultra sonic sensors next to the interior mirrors just to clean them of a bit. Not sure what problem was but must have been one of these 2.

Far as I know they have been in there from factory but something is wrong and been like It a long time looking at the seat wear.

That all makes sense. Arm rests are on inner side of chairs too.... I will look around to see if there is a stop pin that can be moved. Thanks.

My c8 has captain seats but they only turn inwards which actually doesn't work because the back of the seat hits the side of the car and only turns about a quarter turn, I'm sure the intention was for them to turn outwards so you can get in and out of the car easier. Any ideas on this and if they are the wrong way can I swap the driver and passenger seat around so they rotate the other way Or is the handbrake actually attached to the seat?

Hi, I have replaced the bulbs in the climate control window easy enough but now a bulb has gone on the display with the date and mpg.... How do I get that display out?

Cant see a bonnet switch anywhere. Left it unlatched and lifted the bonnet while alarm was armed but it didn't set it off so think it rules out the bonnet switch.

There is a dash board display and it does show all doors closed and works as it should. When the doors and boot aren't shut properly the doors won't lock. Can't see a switch anywhere for the bonnet but I will have another look.

If I lock the car using the key fob,most of the time the alarm will go off for no reason, sometimes within minutes and sometimes after hours, sometimes not at all but being woke up at 2am by the alarm is annoying. all doors are tightly shut and I tried covering the sensors inside the car just to make sure its not them. still does it though. My thoughts are something is draining power and the alarm system is spotting the power drain. Any ideas?

I'm wondering if It could be egr valve stuck partially open. My Mercedes a170 had a similar fault and power was so low I could not pull away in a hill. cleaned the egr and it was fine.

Solved, it was low on gas as suggested. Thanks

Solved, it was low on gas as suggested. Thanks