arak81

Actually I damaged the fuel neck myelf when popped into a fuel station to load the fuel. My be I entered the nozzle in wrong angle or so. They couldn't get only the neck. therefore they are changing the whole tank wich will be coming from Skoda. End of the day I'll get a brand new original fuel tank if I wanna stick with the same car.ETA of part delivery is today.so I am just checking if I can have any other better car within this price range.

I still didn't get the car on my hand as they need to change the whole tank and waiting for the tank to be delivered from Skoda. They offered me full refund or transfer the fund to another car. I have found VW 2L bluemotion 30pounds road tax 80k for 8600pounds..would it be worth to go there or wait for the brand new fuel tank to be fitted.

Oh, I had it done already paul.h. Car had its service in a skoda service centre in Birmingham. They said if i can pop in there show room and buy a service book for just £10 they can stamp on the book but it will be written is copy though. So may be someday i 'll make a trip to them. Update of the New car:I had a bad luck with the Octavia today. I collected the car and went to the fuel pump to load the empty tank but guess what the nozzle doesn't go in..I was in texaco..and definitely it was diesel nozzle (they had supreme and normal diesel). initially it went in and were able to load under a pound worth fuel and then cut off. guy came to help me but still didn't work at all. anyway, i drove back to them and they will fix it and let me know tomorrow. what a pity!

Finally I have ended up buying SKODA OCTAVIA 1.6TDi Elegance. Registration plate 63, Date of first used 2 December 2013. Mileage 63k, PRICE: £8400. This is the high spec of its range. Most of the features i wanted is there. I haven't got the car yet. tomorrow they will do all the pre sell, post sell checking and diagnostic to make sure car is in optimal condition before delivering it to me.I could have collected it at 10'oclock in the morning but i prefer to pick it up at around 5pm. Oh, by the way, car has got no service history, but it was a company car based on Birmingham and i can trust the car dealer like Cargiant about the authenticity of the condition of the car. When i opened the bonnet, i was amazed seeing that engine is shinning new, battery has even got its cover..i mean everything there feel like new..just like you were to buy from the show room. So far so happy. BYE BYE GUYS. THANKS FOR BEING SO HELPFUL. I'LL RECOMMEND THIS FORUM TO ANYBODY I KNOW USING CITROEN.

That's where I checked..but cant find anything within that mileage and price range..anyway, I am going to cargiant to test drive vauxhall insignia ecoFlex 12/12/12 which is £6100 and miileage 74k and other one Seat Toledo 1.6Tdi ecomotive 13plate £5990 mileage 80k..what do you think paul?

That was a very good piece of advice. But i have been searching for a car the whole day..couldn't find any within that price range and mileage. would you mind to give me any link of any car that you might have come across. My preferences are Ford Mondeo, Vauxhall Insignia, Skoda Octavia or Vaulkwagen Passat. Now i think i better look for the mileage rather than looking for the feature.

Primarily I have decided to go for Ford Mondeo 1.6 TDCi ECO Zetec. I have also found one Peugeot 508 2.0 HDi Hybrid4 Allure EGC 4X4 (Diesel Hybrid) within my locality. But my concern is about the battery of the hybrid...how long it will last or how much would be repair or replacement cost, in case battery doesn't work can diesel run the car..something like that. I couldn't find too much information about the car. Ford Mondeo I have chosen is £5300 for 112k Peugeot 508 hybrid is 6790 for 120k

Hi Guys, I have just sold my Citroen C4 1.6HDI today. I have driven it 1year 5months . throughout this whole time people helped me in many ways especially paul.h, coastline taxis, rookie2 and so on. Thanks to everyone. Now I will be looking for a car which is registered in 2012/13. My Preferences for the new car would be 17/18 inch wheels Electric control for all four windows SatNav, Parking aid, Cruse Control, ESP, AUX in, Daytime running light, Xenon light Road tax max £30 Uber London acceptable hatchback/saloon Wish me luck guys and wish everyone good luck here.

Halfords people drove the car at 70mph to identify the problems..they also admitted that steering wheel shakes once brake is pressed starting from 60mph.at 50mph steering wheel doesn't shake, no matter how sharp you press the brake. They said INNER ROD END WORN OUT..I am also confused which one need replacing..I tried to wobble the tyre while in jack to see, but it seemeed OUTER ROD END was ok..so must be inner one which is connected with steering wheel. They checked and measured everything regarding brake pad, disk. When the guy said friction materials left in the pad was 9mm aand 7mm from their best technician he even didnt believe himself. So he took the measurement again and definitely it was 9mm and 7mm..brake disk appeared to be new as well 25mm. I haven't had any work done for the brakes..but well they said to start from the track rod end replacement to see if it solves the problem..otherwise problem will be underlying the SMF. Tomorrow I will have INNER TRACK ROD END replaced..I will ask the guy to check the engine mounts and pulley...halford said there was vibration coming from gearbox..may be people did the job couldn't do it properly..still I can feel some noise when pressing gas at the beginning of driving.

Just a quick one my driver side seat heater is not working since this morning.I had a quick look at the underneath of the seat but couldn't see any unusual. Else everything including passabger seat heater is working fine..any idea?

I have been enjoying driving my car so far. its very powerful and smooth now..only few problems still exist which makes me wonder what could those fault be cased by? 1. Vibration in the morning (cold start makes staring wheel vibrate too much) 2. Sharp Braking at 70mph causes steering wheel shakes I went to halfords autocentre for free 15pont check and also i had brake for life warranty. they gave me following report BRAKES FRONT BRAKE PAD FRICTION MATERIAL WORN TO 9MM REAR BRAKE PAD FRICTION MATERIAL WORN TO 7MM S+S TRACK ROD END OFFSIDE INNER TRACK ROD END WORN BEARING REAR SLIGHT PLAY IN NEARSIDE REAR WHEEL BEARING (When i did my 15point check back in Oct 2015 my friction material of brake pad was 7mm left for both front and rear tyres. I drove 15k miles over the last one and half years time and mystery remains undiscovered how the friction material of brake pads become 9mm and 7mm now for front and rear respectively. even the brake disks appeared to them near new. Guys have taken the measurement twice as they were confused too. I swear upon god..i didn't do any brake works. So it seems they grow them self) Anyway, Technician said as i have had my DMF changed that might be cause of steering wheel shaking when brake pressed at high speed. He said it was not advisable not change DMF to SMF in this car as DMF is in their for reasons. He also showed me a website where it says SMF meant to give rough drive experience with vibration and car will have lots of torque..thats why sports cars, trucks use SMF. DMF should be smoother drive experience. I am confused.. and thinking whether i should go for TRACK ROD END replace for the offside now to see if it stops the shaking for the steering wheel at high speed brake.. If it could be stopped i would love the car..engine mounting and other advice people gave me here have been checked..and they seem ok. anyway,

Well well well....finally i got the acceleration problem and banging sound from underneath of the car sorted. Firstly banging or knocking sound: Nearside Track Rod End was worn out. mechanic made it wobble in front of me to show that there was nothing but this was faulty. I still couldn't believe as sound appeared to be coming from boot side and sometimes front side...anyway, we got it changed with Lemforder Track Rod End Product Code: 606545025, costed me £40 including labour. Unbelievable no noise afterwards. Secondly: Guy wasn't convinced that the car was not accelerating properly. I scanned car with my MaxiScan code reader today before taking it to him and found the Code P0299 which says Turbocharger/Supercharger underboost. So i showed it to him..Once he changed the Track Rod End he had a look on solenoid valve and found that Boost vacuum pipe (or whatever it calls) which connected with solenoid valve was split. So he cut it off and rejoined. Voilà problem sorted.. Car now runs with its full power. he said when i spoiled the clutch kit and dmf i must have done this too. So their job of changing DMF to Solid Flywheel conversion stands flawless which i doubted before. When I test driven the car after all of these i was over the moon. Now need to see in the morning if steering wheel's vibration has been reduced or not. Oh by the way, I again have to do my steering wheel tracking (£35) as track rod end changing made my steering wheel totally out of track. Total cost: I had to count £275 (SFW)+£150 (labour)+£45 (Track road end and solenoid valve repair) + £35 (wheel tracking) = £505 + lots of stress.

I have noticed that there is a banging noise coming from the underneath of the car while pressing the gas during the gear shifting. Something like you stopped on a red signal and now time to move on..thats the time you will hear this noise..throughout the whole time you can hear this banging noise when you will be speeding and releasing the gas. (noise is like some iron metal is hitting something). it might be coming from the FLYWHEEL and CLUTCH box. has anyone got any idea..can this slod flywheel banging anything. I am preparing to go to that guy tomorrow...if he tries to make me understand saying that its normal for solid flywheel..i have to have something to tell him back to make him check the car properly.. I am still unhappy as car is not accelerating the way it used to do before.

I'll try to have a look on them...but today when i was driving on 70mph on motorway sharp braking was causing steering wheel shake. i have tried few more times to determine and yes definitely steering wheel was shaking too much with a sudden or sharp brake.. when i was in 50mph it was not shaking for sudden braking though. is it related with the steering wheel vibration problem or sudden braking on 70mph causing steering wheel shake is normal?

I had a quick look at the engine but couldn't see anything wrong. once the weather get better i will dig deep. There must be something wrong that for sure..cause as i am driving the car i can press the gas all the way to the end all of a sudden and car responses very slowly..but if it was before car gets speed up as soon as i press the gas. My concern is gas pedal is slow in response. thats what i can put in a line. And morning steering wheel vibration is still there..steering will vibration makes the key ring, sunglasses, coins kept in the pocket jingle..but as the car warming up vibration goes off. I spoke with guy about glow plugs and he said glow plugs do not cause any kind of problems. they meant to be for the cold country where temperature is well below zero degree. if there were no glow plugs car would work as it should be. so i guess it is something else what is causing this problem. Any suggestion from anybody will be appreciated.

I brought the car to the guy who got it fixed..he drove it around and said everything was fine..and also said,if there was any connection problem engine light should have on straight away. He advised me to drive around to get used to it..but I feel car is very week. gas pedal response is slow. btw, the steering wheel vibration is still exist..when I turned it on this norning it was vibrating but bit less than before.

I didnt understand all of these Rookie2. Just need to know whether my car is okay now or not..it feels very light and picks up speed slowly where as i used to feel the power of the car previously and didnt need to much effort in the gas padal.

Just to add my experience, i have just driven the car in the motor way and i have felt like car is bit under power (torque) now. before i never had to press the accelerator pedal all the way to the end and car used to accelerate within very small amount of press in the accelerator..now i have driven in the motorway and had to press the pedal all the way to the end to keep up the steady of speed several time. I am wondering how would it be like driving in a place like Snowdonia. is there any tweak to increase the torque...or car will be okay in hilly area?

I am totally agree with you paul. that's why i didn't want to waste money just for the brand. but some people from the garage and also some of my friends keep saying get a German build car instead of France. they are well build and so and so. Anyway, I have had my dmf and clutch kit replaced today with valeo solid flywheel conversion. the clutch now feels very light and no vibration at all in the clutch (previously there was always vibration in the clutch when it was pressed a little bit). now the clutch works without any effort which makes me bit uncomfortable. I guess i need some times to get use to it now. The bad stinky smell is still there. Do you any idea how to get rid off it? About the clutch kit and dmf :- garage guy said they have never seen like my clutch plate which was broken in two pieces and dmf was also bad. so it was really worth changing to solid flywheel now instead of just changing clutch kit.

Hi Rookie2, don't get me wrong. I am not upset with you or blaming anybody here. In fact i am thanking you for sharing this testing method with us. It's a piece of knowledge. It was purely my bad luck that i didnt get my clutch kit replaced during dmf replacing. coastline taxis, I am not gonna be angry with that garage as well who changed the dmf.of course they told me about the risk of second hand dmf. cant remember them saying to me to change the clutch kit though. Even myself hasn't had any idea about clutch kit. paul.h - You are absolutely right. When it gave me bad smell and refused to work on reverse gear it was the sign of something bad happened to the car. Well, i always like to take care of my car. I could have sold this one couple of weeks ago for 2grands..but somehow i like it and didnt sell it.its a beautiful looking hatchback that i have ever seen. Next car i wish to go for is German made if i can afford..

i didn't realise that i have to do it for 2/3 seconds. I kept the clutch pressed until rev went at it's top. Not a lot of people are as wise as you..therefore need more clear instruction or caution that don't do it more than 3seconds or don't force to much. I have learnt my very expensive lesson today.

Forgot to add- I didn't change the clutch kit when had the DMF replaced...it was stupid and ignorance of me and even garage people didn't mention about it. the guy who will be doing the job now is an expert of peugeot and citroen (I mentioned about this people in my another post). When he inspected the car this morning by the smell of the burning he said definitely clutch is gone and DMF might be okay if i have had it replaced few months ago (he also didn't recommend to put a second hand one) and can't be sure until they bring it down. he recommended to go for solid flywheel conversion kit. Paul.h: is there any way we can edit our post? I tried to add this bit in my previous post and couldn't find an option of adding it.

Thats what i ordered Paul.h. Valeo Solid Flywheel Conversion Product Code: 633540040 and gearbox oil.fitting cost would be around £160. and to add insult to injury I had my mobile phone fallen on the concrete road this afternoon which caused its screen scattered. my wife's phone screen was already broken but it decided to stop working today. So it is quite a hell of day for me today. NO ONE EVER SHOULD TRY THIS DMF TESTING METHOD OTHER THAN THE GARAGE I THINK.

Hi guys,very bad morning..just a while ago (8am)I was tasting the car with third gear as Rookie2 said and it left my car gear not working anymore. Thanks God and also Paul.h that I didn't try it in Snowdonia. Well, what happened is..car didn't stall and rev continued increasing. all of a sudden I have seen a huge smoke coming out of the bonnet when rev increasing and there was rubber burning smell which was very strong..I am in the bus now and can still feel the smell.the car was still cold by the way..I quickly switched off the engine and open the bonnet. Smoke was coming from the back of the engine...waited sometomes and started the car to come to work..but guess what gear doesn't work..I can manage to put first gear and from there I can not move it to any other gear.note that, when car is switched off gear works fine. My gear was working very smoothly and just five months ago I put a second hand DMF which was used for 5k only. litterily I have just ruined my car now.. I can guess that I have to change DMF again which will probably cost me 500pounds. any idea or suggestion anybody plz..

Yea, it is the same one. When I was reversing in a little uphill muddy narrow uneven road all of a sudden the stinky smell were all over in the car and car was refusing to go backward. the smell was something like RUBBER BURNING and DECEASED ANIMAL. I was even checking underneath the car if any animal (rats, cats etc) were stuck in there few days ago which could be deceased and spreading odour. i had to request to access to the property to turn the car round. I did three points turning there without any problem. Note that when i was stuck on reversing steering wheel didn't vibrate at that point of time...car was simply not going backward and i was scared to try again.