ESL57

I wonder AH, if your crank damper pulley is running eccentric, or seated fully home. I know mine is quite close but not touching.

No there is nothing in a rebuild kit for that pinion. Shaft seal and dust washer as you say. They may rebuild this at places like Brake Engineering who sell recons. Is it possible that a PO has doused it to try freeing the handbrake pinion off? I know I just done it on mine last week.

Good cars!

If you are not losing much fluid and the caliper is working I would just keep an eye on it ATM.

I always think the glow plugs are better changed sooner rather than later. If you don't get them out now you may struggle later. Mine were tight and squeaky coming out but I bet they were 14 year old originals. 3 were dud. Nice set of Beru ones put in with some anti-seize and it's a job well worth it.

That is very helpful. I may give you a mail if I ever take the plunge.

Well after doing all the stuff in sticky, yes my handbrake mech was stiff. However, what has happened is that the plate that goes over the splined pinion is worn with no splines left on it. The plate has obviously been turning on the stiff shaft every time handbrake has been operated. Should there be splines in the plate, or is there a bit missing? I have driven the plate over the pinion and I will put two tack welds on to hold it. I don't see any other way. less I can get a good plate with splines. The hand brake pinion can be turned with mole grips now and it gives pressure to stop wheel turning.

Thanks Paul.

Why are they so crap? These were recon units and now the handbrake mech will not work on one of them. You can pull the cable to full on and lever moves, but no braking. I can turn disc with my hand. Now have all the pallaver of exchanging old one for new and the hassle it brings with deposit etc. Anyone opened that mech up? My caliper is spot on except for handbrake. I was going to get an old caliper to mess with but scrappy wants £25....nope!

All the bits for these alternators are on Ebay as kits. They are best rebuilt from those parts and a new clutch pulley for the drivebelt fitted while it is off.

I would remove the sump. Surprising what may be in there and if there is much gunge, then it will contaminate your new oil quickly. A tube of RTV silicone for a new sump gasket, so a cheap job really.

Those units can be repaired by filing away the corrosion to flat and then fitting a Dowty washer. It is getting the correct size washer that is difficult.

Was there not talk that only the early cars with Bosch ECU and injection could be read with OBD2 compatibile code readers? Some cars have Siemens and Delphi systems?

Lots of people find hubs seized. If you have to remove hubs with driveshaft attached, it makes it awkward to refit the driveshaft without damaging a seal. That is especially true on the O/S. Best to get pair of seals for driveshaft at gearbox as well.

Thanks for your input Paul. Checking the door jamb, there is EYTC on the paint code. Car is 2002. This is my colour in first pic. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-C5-1-8-PETROL-COLOUR-EYTC-BREAKING-FOR-SPARES-STARTER-MOTOR-/331843584707?hash=item4d436b42c3:g:dFUAAOSwHnFVr5kx Don't want to paint a door as it will never be the same colour as the rest of body. I could cut rust out of this door, weld and repair. However the work and the cost of paint, plus never getting a match, mean it is hardly worthwhile. If you have a valuable car, then a spectrometer can be used to match older and faded paint. That would be beyond my budget here .