Aldispatch

Update* It still doesn't work, even with actual 10k resistor soldered on. Loosing hope and patience with this VCI. I can recommend: Do not buy any Lexia Diagbox VCI from VehicleDiagnosticsUK on Ebay, as it doesn't work on all cars and he doesn't respond to emails.

Well i bought a 10k resistor and just managed to solder it on, although there's not much room between the case and board. but.. i then checked with my multi-meter and it said 10 Ohms, not 10k.. arg I tested in the car and it still doesn't work! :( So i think i need to get a real 10k :

Actually I had another look at my boards, and I think maybe it is not a full chip version.. am I missing the 10K Ohm pull up resistor!? It's meant to be where I marked in red, Is that right? So can i just solder something like this in place and fix it? https://www.maplin.co.uk/p/metal-film-06w-10k-ohm-resistor-m10k

I'm a bit confused now after testing again but with no luck, I tried the auto detect and manual VIN selection but neither worked, with host/guest firewalls off, netoworks disabled or on, all I got was this: I found if I unplug the OBD2 connector or Round VCI cable connector Diagbox would notice and say please connect VCI, it wouldn't even try and auto sense the VIN.. So I guess the VCI knows when it is connected to the car but cannot communicate?? (Actia drivers show up as normal in device manager when VCI is plugged in, and I can hear relays clicking as it tries to connect) The cheap OBD2 can sense on the cars port though: Here's my cars' port, only 7 pins in use.. is that normal?: I still can't figure out what is causing the 'interruption' or lack or communication?

Thanks Simple, I'm glad I don't need to do any soldering. The VCI is currently updated to 4.3.2 for Diagbox version 7.57 I have not seen an option for putting in the RPO it automatically asks for the VIN when I select a C1 to test. But I saw ver7.57 has a different auto sense that I didn't see before, (Car with a question mark logo) i'll try it out later tomorrow. I have checked all car fuses, and they're all good. All pins on the VCI to OBD2 connector lead have continuity although both round connector pins 4+3 feed the same OBD2 pin 4.. maybe normal? I did notice my VM XP's firewall was on earlier, I'll go and test tomorrow without. Thanks Al

Hi, I can't seem to get my VCI to talk to my Citroen C1 after many attempts of software and fresh XP installs.. I then tested my Virtual Machine(VM) Diagbox 7.02 / VCI 4.3.0 on a friends Peugeot 407, and it works!? (I'm excited to get my first ever 32bit VM running on 64bit Win 10, but annoyed I've faffed with many installs attempting to talk to my C1 when it worked all along, just not on my car ) I used Simple's great run down here for installation: http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23435-diagbox-7xx-from-preparation-to-operation/ I've also bought a £4.25 ELM27 OBD2 reader and that does actually work on my C1's port. I can read most of the live data and faults in the Torque App, but after about 6 fresh installs of XP and Diagbox in various ways, it turns out that was never the problem, as it does work on the 2012 407 just not my 2007 C1, and I know the VCI also used to work on my last vehicle: 2009 Dispatch, it was all running fine on my old laptop. The ebay seller VehicleDiagnosticsUK has gone silent Could it be I have a non full chip reader, or can my port be malfunctioning on certain pins K-line problems? There is 12v on pins 4/5 to 16 are there any fuses I should check or specific pins for data transfer?? Another thought, could Diagbox 7.02-7.04 and now I tried 7.57 - Could it be broken for the C1? I read from Simple about 10k resistor missing on some boards, but i'm not sure for mine if my VCI is full Chip or missing things? : I can try to solder of i need to. Thanks for any Help Al

I can't help, but the lamps in my C1 are not great for nightime illumination, so i would be interested in LED info too.

Thanks Paul, Listening again this afternoon with a friend, and noting how little difference it's made to the fast tappy sound, I do wonder if i'm over worrying about the noise, maybe it's an HDI thing, as i'm missing the engine cover and under tray wind deflector, which i'm sure would mask it alot, but it does seem excessive, although not having had an HDI before to benchmark, it's really hard to know whats normal. For now i'll wait until someone can advise best what to do with the injectors, as i still have one scrappy spare and two copper washers left to do some swapping.

So a little bit of looking, and i read the injectors are ordered 4 3 2 1 looking from in front of the van. So i have swapped out 1 and 2. Injector 1 now only has 65% flow correction, and it was also the only injector that looked like it had an after market nozzle re-con on it, so i assume it's good? but is the difference from the others a bad thing? Also that would lead me to think injector 4 which was at 137% correction is a bit blocked? So would be worth swapping out to see the overall affect.. But if the 65% is a bad deviation, should i just swap that one back out!?..

Hi, first post here, hope it's ok. I have a 2009 Citroen Dispatch HDI 2.0 120hp, 135k miles with noisey Injectors, at least that's what i'm thinking at the mo', i bought it recently and found a tiny amount of swarf in the filter, but history shows a recent HP fuel pump rebuild, so i put an inline magnetic filter to catch anything, and the rail pressure seems good, so i assume/hope it's 'historical' swarf, and that could cause injector wear/noise. The engine sounds good at idle, until around 1700rpm ish, but the noise starts at slightly lower revs when warm, it carries on all the way up, and generally only when the throttle is down, a dab of the throttle and the clatter follows the revs then tails off. Listening with a screwdriver in the ear and on the injector pipes, two of them sound significantly more clattery (metallic tapping), and another was also quite loud, so i swapped out two on the right of the engine looking at it from the front bumper, is that injectors 1 + 2 in Diagbox? It sounds pretty much the same after swapping, although i can see in diagbox different % flow corrections, but i don't know what they should be!? If it was 1 + 2 I swapped, then 4 was the other i thought sounded noisey, but has a very different flow correction. Is over 100% good or under 100% for an old injector? Also all four don't add up to 100% average, and 1 vs 4 is quite a high difference, is that normal!? My next plan was to swap out the third noisey injector which i'm assuming was no. 4 at least, it's at the other end to the two I did swap. Before swapping out 2 injectors, at idle: After swapping out the two injectors: Thanks in advance for any tips or help, as i'm not sure if i could be barking up the wrong tree...