Chrisc5v6

hi there looking through I now have this problem ,local garages are rejecting as a no can do . I got an estimate from a citroen dealer it was £120 to do the job and £160 for the pipe . How much did you end up paying?

When I first got the car ,when I put on the a/c and it stunk to high heaven .i replaced the filter behind the air blower ,not an easy job ,requires a certain amount of brute force ,after that it smelt neutral.if I knew where the diesel filter was I would have a go . Job for tomorrow find out where that is .

Good morning. I always like to do my own servicing where i can with regard to oil and filter changes. Never done it before on this car C5 estate V6. I ran the car up some METAL ramps making sure it was all correctly balanced and even and stable. placed 2 house bricks behind the back wheels added safety. Crawled underneath remove about 10 snap screws and removed the bottom cardboard /plastic cover easier than it looks. Removed the sump plug and drained the oil into an old paint bucket sufficient capacity as the v6 has over 6 litres of oil in it. Left it to drain for some time started looking for the oil filter. Never found the oil filter but identified a few other items and visually looked around. Replaced the sump plug filled the engine with 6 litres of new oil from the top. replaced the bottom cover. Removed the car from the ramps gently,so has not to bump the ramps. Removed the engine top cover and there smack bang in the middle of the engine was the oil filter inverted and unless I had a 32mm socket it wasn't coming out . I bought of ebay a set of large sockets including the size I needed for £10 all chromed up arrived in 2 days. Removed the oil filter replaced the rubber seal and new filter tightened it up with the new socket . You have to be a bit careful when doing it as there are multi lines everywhere which may need gently moving out the way. Removed 4 screws on the air filter and replaced the air filter, easy. Total cost about £60 and not more than 2 hrs work. I also go round and spray just about everything with WD 40 especially electrical sockets and such.

Well I bit the bullet and disconnected the battery and put a charger on it with a meter to tell what was going on, the battery started at 2.5 amps and fell away to 1.8 in an hours charge. After the hour I put it back and everything seemed ok.... apart from the door locking which stayed the same. Which is ..... with all doors shut... no auto locking with the tail gate open auto locking with 30 secs it would seem that the only thing that was affected by the disconnect was the clock, the radio still worked and more importantly so did the car, In the coming months I may well save up the £65 and buy a new battery.

yes I have printed it out so I can follow step by step I will give it a go next week maybe Monday, thanks again nothing ventured nothing gained if it aint broke don't fix it he who dares wins Paul how many posts before I can add an icon picture

I keep meaning to watch one of those revive any battery videos but there full of such padding I get bored with it the bit you want to hear is right at the end.why pad it with such dross Has. Anyone actually got to the end of one But I think all its to tell you is put Epsom salts in there to revive your battery But I've found over the years distilled wAter works fine

I used a multimeter on the battery in the rear and I have a plug in one for the cigarette lighter plug that gives a readout as I'm driving The battery fitted to my car is on the small size for such a large size ,I'm assured its correct for the car. I don't use my car in the week so it sits all week until Saturday when it starts first time even in the winter. Now battery manufacturers say that a sealed battery dosnt need any maintenance ,but that isn't true is it battery manufactures as the electrolyte evaporates and part of the plates become uncovered and then a battery doesn't perform very well .if you are able get the plugs out you can top up the electrolyte and fill up with distilled water and a good charge and it will last a little longer . So I shall bite the bullet and take it out and check it and apply the above Else I could dig in my pocket and buy one for £85 locally. What I don't know is what will I do to any settings in the car if any . Or will t,here be a complete reset and miraculously all faults vanish. Yes I believe in fairies.

The voltage first thing this morning was 12.03 volts. Once started it went to 14.06 volts and no the tail lift dosnt work with the engine running. I checked all the wires leaving the door they appear to be intact I need to do some comprehension on a total reset and what happens when I disconnect the battery for a long time.

I bought 2 fuses and sat there looking at them so a complete change of plan I went out and fitted the fuse Disconnected the battery and changed the fuse not so easy with the battery in position but accheivable . And now the 12v socket works as it should and the offending socket from the cheap shop is long gone. However I did rather think that there was a connection between the fuse and the tailgate raise and lower there is not as that still dosnt work . Back to the manual . regard the auto locking with the tail gate open very strange indeed with the tailgate open the auto locks works within 30 secs with the tail gate shut the auto doesn't work ever.

You may well be correct as that's why the doors lock as they think the tailgate is shut and its not ,next job. Paul The fuses seem to be readily available. I was going to buy a new a battery on my three year anniversary so I will change it when I get a new battery As you point out it could be well old I wasn't going to mention the wires as the wire colour to the fuse is blue and not the expected pink so it must go through something else.(Hey ho) The fuse blew because I blew it with a crap extension socket from a cheap shop. (idiot, still I now know a bit about the car )

its this one

The device behind the left headlight on the wing wall is "Relay 3 protection switch unit BCP3". I have just been out and checked the battery fuses and the left hand little one is open circuit . I firmly belief its the fuse I have taken all this time to identify and locate. now I have to find another one !! err its orange, err its 30 amp(not 25 amp as listed), err its held in by nuts, err its on the battery............ . ........................................

This info is taken from the 2010 handbook and not my one as its not listed in my one notice the fuse number starts at F6 Fuse N° Rating Function F6 25 A Rear 12 V socket (max power: 100 W) F7 15 A Foglamps F8 20 A Additional burner (Diesel) F9 30 A Electric parking brake This is the diagram taken from citroen online manuals which runs under windows xp you have to have a virtual window and its not easy to cut and paste Citroen Service Electrical drawing for diagnosis and repair (SEDRE)4.6.0 It cost me £9.99 to download .Paul is this the same as what you mention Cp05 is the rear 12v socket Famous last words I conclude that this now relates to the fuses on top of the battery which equals 4 off . But you cant get your head in enough to read if they have any numbers . Paul I disconnected the battery for 10 mins and no change (I didn't follow your example but will do today as its not raining) I am wondering does my radio have a code that is lost after x amount of time as I do not have a code. In the 2 times I have disconnected the battery for short times the radio was ok.

And I think I have now found BFDB exactly where it should be on top of the battery but the fuses are a different type to usual these are held in by nuts. There would appear to be 4 in there. its started raining so I have had to come in

In place of the DFDB box as shown above I have a differentnt looking gadget in apperance opening it up shows this

I found this picture its not my car but it shows the elusive BFDB fuse box now I know what I'm looking for (Credit to unknown poster on google for the photo)

These are the fuses under the normal fuse box And this is the fuse box under the bonnet and the unknown gadget is on the right

if the BFDB is fitted to my car where is it ?....................I don't think its the device above If it is not fitted to my car what took its place? Paul you already posted this in another thread "This is from the RTA C5 manual for the 2008 C5 (ISBN 9782726873755 http://www.amazon.co...8/dp/2726873758 ): BFDB - boitier fusibles depart batterie F1 40 amp groupe electropumpe - calculateur suspension electrohydraulique (suspension pump and its control) F2 70 amp biotier de commande pre-postchauffage (glow plugs) F3 60 amp groupe motoventilateur 2 (radiator fan ?) F4 100 amp boitier commutation protection 2 relais (relays ?) F5 30 amp boitier servitude remorque (?) F6 25 amp prise 12 V arriere + coffre (rear 12 volt socket) F7 15 amp feux antibrouillard (fog lights) F8 20 amp bruleur chauffage additionnel (additional heating) F9 30 amp frein de stationnement electrique (electric handbrake)" So I'm looking for a device with 9 fuses in it, somewhere around the battery if it was fitted to the front (which it is not its in the rear of the car left side) It maybe these are the fusible links on the back of the under bonnet ones ,awkward to get at. And if anyone uses the online manual when you call up a wiring diagram press the print button but don't print you will get another window with a lot more info associated with your diagram.

blown up

Hi Paul I have just had a look and look what I find behind the left hand headlight. it has the smallest diagram possible on its side I shall need bigger glasses I cant actually see if it the one........ but it must be . And like you say and the literature says it shouldn't be there . I have not seen anything in any diagram to say its there or what it is Whether there are fuses in side I will have to wait until tomorrow to find out . Once again thanks for your help Chris

Ok this morning i have gone through all the version of handbooks right up to year 16.As Paul listed above. What I found of interest is that as the manual gets updated it now contains info relating to your car but in a later version . I found the 2016 containg a whole lot of info that was missing from my manual of year of 2009 . Obviously there is a whole load not applicable buts its easy to discern the difference. I also noticed that pre 2009 the battery fuse is shown. In 2009 it is not And then from 2010 to 2016 the battery fuse info has reappeared but with no more explanation just a coloured picture of the fuses suggesting they are in the engine bay fuse box.??????????? Also not all circuits are listed as you would expect as its a historical record that has just been copied through each year Around 2012 the handbook is presented in a PDF format and you have to open it via the icon in the top right corner. I may get my wife to print out the 2016 version as sure does have a lot more relevant info in it . Only its 200 pages.

Thanks Paul I will try that tomorrow . I'm to fed up at the mo with it I've had some of the rear panels open to see if I can see any clues But alas no joy The only thing I'm sure of is the 12v rear socket has a pink wire but where goes I know not Ithink maybe I need to go back to stratch and start again The common fault was/is the 12v socket and the tailgate raise and lower doesn't work ! I did do a fix to the rear wash pipe by finding a narrow tube which fitted up the corrugated pipe which was sticking out about half inch each end I gorilla glued this in both ends and closed the gap with fish tank tube .its working for now .

What the...... I disconnected the battery for 10 secs. Now this happens Unlock the car with key fob clonk ......car unlocks. open the tailgate, fiddle about after 30 secs Clonk the car auto locks with the tail gate open .?????????????? Incidently whilst trying to find the fuses I'm looking for . I as you do removed the shunt fuse in the dash fuse board. I cud not remember where it came out as it has 2 configuration positions. which are Dealer and client (I think) I put it back into client .Everything seem okydoky except the above.

I have just been out and removed the engine fuse board to see what else is in there.THree side clips reease the inner fuse board with disconnecting anything i was able to get it out fare enough to see what was behind and sure enough there are some serios valued fuses like 50 amp down to 20 amp.I should imagine if one of thos was to go. A. you would here it B you would see quite easy which one it was. However there were no other normal fuses in the box. Put it all back and went for a ride to test everything was all ok. So I'm back to square one. I may just look at some wiring diagrams from later models to see if there are any clues there.

Name: Citroen C1 (Daughters) (2012) Date Added: 28 July 2017 - 07:37 AM Owner: Chrisc5v6 Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle