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Posted

Hi all. Hoping that someone can help me with this. I have a C5 2.2hdi 56 plate. The handbrake cable frayed and kept catching on the guide tube. I purchased a new cable, and as expected, when I attempted to replace, the old cable was well and truly seized inside the guide tube. I got a new guide tube.

I have managed to get the old tube disconnected so it is loose, but I can't get it out, either from the wheel arch or underneath? I've undone the bolt inside wheel arch, I've unclipped it at the clip midway, and pulled it out from beneath (the end is hanging down. Front exhaust is disconnected and Heatshield moved. All the pulling, twisting and jiggling just won't get it to come out. Can anyone tell me 1, does it come out from the wheel arch or underneath or either? And 2, if it comes out underneath, do I perhaps need more height? The cars on 8" ramps with suspension on highest.

Any ideas?

Dave

Posted

There a complete pig to do and hieght is your only friend. 1st though get some axle stands under it NOW because your  working next to the front ride hieght adjuster and if you catch it the car will come down on you faster than you can move ( and thatis speaking from exprience)  to remove the tubes just cut them up into a couple of pieces and remove them. the tubes are sided and basicly both go in the same way thru the front wheel arch at a 45 degree angle downwards then turn the tube and they go into place with a bit of swearing. The pass side tube needs a extra part removed to get it in. on the rear of the front wishbone ( pass/side ) theres a 10mm bolt that holds the shroud onto the steering rack remove that and the shroud then put tube in.   Make sure you pack the tubes with as much grease as you can get into it b4 puting the cable in the tube or youle be putting another set in within a year

Posted

All done. Coastline was absolutely spot on with his advice. Especially the part about it being a "complete pig to do"

Don't think I have ever used that many expletives before, ever!

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Agreed: changing the tubes has to be one of the worst jobs I've ever attempted. I changed my cables as the interface with the tube at the wheel arch end was getting tatty, and the job became an unnecessary ordeal.

 

Not sure whether anyone else has left this advice elsewhere on the forum but, if I'm ever in need to changing the handbrake cable again, the first thing I'm going to do is cut off the fork at the handbrake end before even attempting to draw it through the tubes. Then I'm going to blow it through with the air line and flood it with WD40 to make sure the old cable comes out along with any dirt and rust. Don't even consider drawing out the cable with the fork still attached: "Oh I'll just see if it will pull through". Yes, well, it will but only so far and then no further amount of force will budge it, and by then it will be out of sight.

 

If you insist on trying your luck then you could secure a wire to the fork to draw it back out as and when you encounter difficulties. But the cable's scrap anyway so cut the end off and don't take the risk. Alternatively you could snip the cable at the wheel arch end and draw the remnant into the car I suppose: not sure that gains you anything but don't do owt without snipping one end or the other!

 

One further point: I fitted aftermarket replacement cables and L and R had differing sizes of ferrule to engage into the dreaded tubes at the wheel arch end. One was so sloppy that I had to construct a ferrule to fill the gap. Otherwise I think there was a severe risk of articulation at the interface, and that would damage the darn things where I first had the problem.

 

Hope this helps.

Posted

Honestly people the secret is grease. when we get a new tube we  start puttin grease in at one end of the tube and dont stop till it comes out the other end then grease the cable itself then feed it in. normally use a whole tub of grease on both sides ( pint pot of paint size tub).   next time u come to replace the cable they just slide out

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