Accumulator Sphere Replacement

[Ronin]

Hi guys I'm new to these forums, I have just become a proud owner of a 1.9td sx M plate Xantia (inherited from my Father in law)

I have to say what a nice care to drive and worth the effort to put right in my opinion.

She has nearly all the usual xantia electrical gremlins that i'm slowly rectifying one by one with the very good advice from yourselves ...Thankyou for the excellent information and tips

I've been busy giving the old girl a new lease of life.

She's been fully serviced by myself (all filters, oil , cam belt, alt belt, slick 50 "I swear by it") & LHM replaced and bled. etc.

 

It had a leaky rear suspension pipe that I replaced with all new front to the rear (a difficult job but rewarding when you do it right lol).

It also had a heavy clutch and the dreaded clip had snapped (what a pain in the backside that was but I managed)

She now has a new clutch, new cable and new clip

 

She was also a little down on power (ran too lean) so I tweaked the bosch fuel pump fuelling a little 1/10th of a turn clockwise and boost pressure valve 1/4 turn anti-clockwise and now the xantia has some get up and go with no extra fuel cost "still get 110 miles to a tenner" lol (left the turbo actuator spring alone). Before you ask, No smoke under load still lol

 

However some minor irritations are needing attention. The suspension rises and lowers fine but the ride is a less than smooth but not bouncy or harsh so I dont think it has got to the point of replacing corner spheres quite yet.

 

After reading some posts on here it has lead me to believe that my xantia needs a new accumulator sphere (Please correct me if i'm wrong)

 

The symptoms are the less than smooth ride, steering is a bit wooly and pump sounds squishy on slight to full lock. Under normal braking the pedal seems to pulse a little and is generally hard as if its not going to stop in time but it does ..Thank god. The ticking of the pump is about every 10 -15 seconds (more after braking) one last thing... The red stop light on the dash comes on regularly on starting up the car then goes off after 20 seconds maximum. I dont have any system leaks and the lhm levels are fine.

 

I already have the waterpump pliers and innertube ready to use lol.

so if someone can explain a basic start to finish routine, I would be extremely grateful... Never done it before but I would like to give it a go.

Thankyou in advance. :)

[Johndouglas]

Have the engine running, go from high to low suspension setting, switch off. Undo the air bleed valve only one turn and after a minute or two, undo the sphere. Remove the old seal and fit a new one into the groove – not on the sphere. Taking care not to dislodge the seal, screw on the new accumulator hand tight. Close the bleed valve and start the engine.

[Ronin]

Have the engine running, go from high to low suspension setting, switch off. Undo the air bleed valve only one turn and after a minute or two, undo the sphere. Remove the old seal and fit a new one into the groove – not on the sphere. Taking care not to dislodge the seal, screw on the new accumulator hand tight. Close the bleed valve and start the engine.

 

Thankyou very much m8... just one question, the bleed valve, where is it situated please... Sorry but dont have a haynes manual yet.

 

Never mind ...found it lol .....First ever citroen I owned with this suspension lol :)