peterpan Posted September 24, 2007 Posted September 24, 2007 Hi - I've got the feeling that the cambelt change is due on my AX 1.0. Local garages want one of my arms as payment for the job ;) I'm pretty OK with jobs on her but apparently this job needs a citroen tool to tension the belt properly.As I've just rebuilt the entire front end I'd like to do it right...Some say that you can tension it hand - any opinions?and any other tips Thanks Quote
kfk Posted September 25, 2007 Posted September 25, 2007 you say you want to do it properly......and then talk about using a method of thumb and forefinger to check the tension......if your going to use this method it wont be correct and if you get it too far wrong you will end up with premature belt failure either through being to slack or too tight......what prices are you being quoted? Quote
Guest qpr4eva4 Posted April 15, 2008 Posted April 15, 2008 ive done mine recently has i got a cambelt snap and they are reasonablly easy all you have to do is take the engine mount off dont forget to use a trolley jack to support the engine and be able to move it about. On the cam shaft pully there is a small hole for a i think a 10mm bolt there should be another bolt hole if u look behind the cam shaft pully on the top right hand side the bole should slide right in then tip ex the cam shaft pully, detention the belt remeber the way it goes on and take it off put the new belt on tension it up turn it over by hand to make sure the valves aint hitting the pistons if the timing is out that is what it will do but it all back together and the job should be a goodun hope you find this helpfull Quote
BarbsC1 Posted April 15, 2008 Posted April 15, 2008 ive done mine recently has i got a cambelt snap and they are reasonablly easy all you have to do is take the engine mount off dont forget to use a trolley jack to support the engine and be able to move it about. On the cam shaft pully there is a small hole for a i think a 10mm bolt there should be another bolt hole if u look behind the cam shaft pully on the top right hand side the bole should slide right in then tip ex the cam shaft pully, detention the belt remeber the way it goes on and take it off put the new belt on tension it up turn it over by hand to make sure the valves aint hitting the pistons if the timing is out that is what it will do but it all back together and the job should be a goodun hope you find this helpfullCam Shaft pulley hole approx 16mm headed bolt hole will peg the camshaft still, and on the front side of the engine you will see a hole that a 10mm headed bolt will go into that will peg the crank from turning, the bolt will locate into the back of the flywheel and I have found although it is not an exact fit a quarter drive ratchet will turn the tensioner if you are worried about how much tension to apply check how much tension is on the old belt before removing it and fit the new one a bit tighter you should be able to twist the belt a quarter of a turn without straining it when tensioned but no more than that Quote
Guest qpr4eva4 Posted April 15, 2008 Posted April 15, 2008 Cam Shaft pulley hole approx 16mm headed bolt hole will peg the camshaft still, and on the front side of the engine you will see a hole that a 10mm headed bolt will go into that will peg the crank from turning, the bolt will locate into the back of the flywheel and I have found although it is not an exact fit a quarter drive ratchet will turn the tensioner if you are worried about how much tension to apply check how much tension is on the old belt before removing it and fit the new one a bit tighter you should be able to twist the belt a quarter of a turn without straining it when tensioned but no more than thatthat is it in a nut shell i couldnt remeber what size it was and i didnt bother pinning the bottom because tipex will do just the job Quote
Guest John_1 Posted December 15, 2010 Posted December 15, 2010 Hi, Straightforward job , the access is v good compared to modern cars. Worth replacing idelr and tensioner pulleys and thinking about replacing the water pump (£20-35) while its all stripped down. If you are leakig oil from the crankshaft (if your alternator is oily - you are) it is worth replacing the c rankshft oil seal and the oil seal runner that sits on the shaft - again not expensive and an easy job. Oil on the alternator will eventually fail it. You can get the correct belt tension by use of a weight hung from an arm attached to the belt tensioner pulley (its a simlified version of a citroen "special tool") A 10mm square section bar (same as the ones that connect house internal door handles together or the flush lever to the handle on a toilet - can be borrowed from a door or buy a spare from lock section of DIY store). This fits into the square hole in the tensioner pulley. Need an arm on the pulley (again can use the plastic arm from a toilet flush - replacement arm frm DIY shop only few pence. Need a hole in the arm 80mm from centre of square bar. With the arm as close to horizontal as possible hang a 1.5kg (for Aluminium block engine) or 2.0kg (for cast iron block) weight from the hole in the arm. You could also use a spring balance but the dead weight is easier to control. Slacken the tensioner nut allow the weight to act then re- tighten the retaining nut. Remove the bar, arm and weight. Rotate engine 4 times by hand in the normal direction of rotation, then refit weight, slacken the tensioner, allow weight to act on belt and then re tighten tensioner to the required torque (23Nm) Regards John . Quote
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