Rear Brake Disc Removal - Please Help

[shaunlfc1]

Hi all,

 

I did the other front pads (first time since I've owned it) this morning, moved onto the rear, passengers side went smoothly, pads in and out in a jiffy, disc was in good nick, moved around to too final drivers rear wheel (20 mins til F.A Cup Final - so doing well) and this disc was heavily rutted, which meant the new pads didnt seat at all well on the disc, so I knew straight away it meant new discs. Too my annoyance it meant I had to leave the old pads in as cannot get to auto-factors til Monday, so off with passengers rear wheel and replace new pads with the old ones - meant I missed 1st 20 mins of footy.... ha ha anyway not to worry.

 

My main question is that in the manual which is on my PC and I didnt consult at the time, seems to say that the rear's come off like the fronts, basically get caliper out of the way, remove the usual retaining countersunk screw and hey presto disc falls off.

 

But Im 99% certain when I was examining the rear disc to see how it did come off, all I could work out is that the disc is held on via the big hub nut and bearings, im sure I didnt see any small retaining screw that usually holds on most common brake discs on most other standard cars.

 

So what is the correct method in removing the rear discs on a 1995 1.9 Non-Turbo hatchback Xantia? Haynes seems to be very vague on this.

 

How exactly does the caliper come off, do I have to split it as it seems to be in two parts, will I have to bleed system afterwards?

 

Thanks for the help....... much appreciated....

 

Regards,

 

Shaun

[Johndouglas]

After you've removed the brake pads, reinsert the retaining pin then remove the two bolts which hold the caliper to the trailing arm. Move the caliper away from the disc and suspend it. Remove the screw holding the disc and take off the disc - maybe. If there's rust you could need to use some force.

[Ronin]

There should be a screw m8, its probably hidden with a fine coating of rust and brake dust.

 

Two tools that come in very handy if the disc retaining screw is siezed on are an impact screw driver and a rubber mallet. Spray a little wd40 onto the screw, wipe off the excess and give the screw a bang (clockwise tighten mode)with the impact screwdriver and then again in (counter-clockwise loosen mode) to loosen off any rust etc. leave it for about 30 minutes for the wd40 to do its stuff.

Go back to the disc and start to loosen off the screw with the impact screw driver "usually about 4 or 5 hits should do" remove the screw. Use the rubber mallet to tap around the disc to free it off the backing plate and Bob's your uncle.

 

give all facing edges "alloy to steel etc." a good clean with with a wire brush to prevent any build up of corrosive reaction to between the two metals

 

Make sure you use some copper grease on the backing plate, screw caliper bolts and back of pads when re-fitting. Bed the new discs and pads in gently for 200 miles and you should have no squeals and very good brakes for a long, long time. ;)

[shaunlfc1]

Hi all...

 

Just come in from replacing the disc's. The reason I didnt notice the retaining screw is that somebody had cleverly welded on a spigot to the end of the screw so to prevent the invitable rounding off of the phillips head, coupled with the build up of general muck it just looked like a locating lug for the wheel as it also passed through the wheel via a hole in the wheel.

 

Luckily I used a pair of grips just to see what this lug was and it turned, and hey presto it became apparent it was the retaining screw.

 

As for the caliper, lots of corrosion on mating face, which took a long while to scrape off and make the rear faces square and flat again, but worth it.

 

I think the last person to do this hadnt scraped it flat, which caused the drivers disc to wear randomly with the pad as the caliper was not sitting properly.

 

So thanks all for ya help...... everything is covered with anti-seize copper paste, so hopefully next time a quicker job it will prove to be.

 

Have a good rest of weekend,

 

Shaun

[Guest Colin Hunter]

Those spigotted screws are standard Citroen fare to help locate the wheels so that the bolt holes line up without hassle. You can get new ones from Citroen if you want them instead of the posi or torx headed csk screws.

 

Chers. Happy Tinkering! :rolleyes: