Drop Links (rods Front Suspension) 2002 2.0 Hdi C5

[ando7p]

Got fed up with the noise coming from the suspension whilst going over minor bumps on the road surface, so decided to change the drop links. I searched the forum but could not find anyone that had posted the 'how to' so thought I'd add it here for reference. I am not a pro Mechanic, so this is not necessarily the 'official' way of changing the links, nor maybe the best, but hopefully may help someone who wishes to save themselves money at a garage.

 

The job of changing them itself is not difficult. Anyone with the slightest ability should be able to do these, however I had to apply a LOT of brute force.

 

Costs :-

 

£26.50 for the pair from a local motor factors (note - actual box came marked up for Peugeot, so must be common across several models of French cars).

 

Tools used :-

 

Note - the ones fitted differed slightly in nut size between the old and new, therefore needed different sets to remove and fit new ones.

 

To remove - 18mm (yes, 18mm) ring spanner (swan neck gave more clearance) or a deep 18mm socket on 1/2" drive (recommended). 17mm open ended spanner. Hammer. Extension bar (to give greater leverage). Release oil, wire brush.

 

Optional - blow torch or angle grinder!

 

To refit - 5mm hex key and 19mm ring spanner (may differ dependant on the parts purchased - this was what was on mine).

 

Time taken - about 3 hours due to heavily corroded threads and only being able to get about 1/8 of a turn at a time, otherwise would easily be done both sides in under an hour.

 

How I did it :-

 

Raise the car to its top suspension setting. Loosen the wheel nuts. Chock the other 3 wheels. Raise car on trolley jack. Remove wheel.

 

The link rods can easily be seen (approx 18" length, solid bar with ball joints both ends fitted between the side of the shock body and roll-bar). Due to the flex in the roll-bar I suggest attempting the lower bolt first, as the top bolt tight will help reduce the movement whilst having to force the bolt to undo!

 

If you have time, spray liberally with release oil and leave to soak (best to do previous night), but I didn't think about this until the time I started the job! Carefully wire bursh the exposed thread section (if necessary) to remove excess corrosion. Apply a small amount of oil to help lubricate the old nut as it undoes.

 

Undo the nut! On mine these were 18mm, were siezed solid and I had to apply a lot of force to get it to move (you may wish to use a blow torch to get some heat to the bolt first, just take care doing this as you are close to the break lines).

 

Once the nut was moving the whole threaded section continued to rotate at the same time. On the ball-joint side of the arm was a 17mm flat to use to stop the whole thing rotating. If I had a 18mm deep socket I would have definetley used it at this point (may be worth paying a fiver or so and aquire one just because of the time and effort saved over using a spanner - just check that yours are 18mm before purchasing).

 

Remove the top bolt in a similar fashion. Replacing was easy and took mere minutes. I fitted the top bolt first, then used the jack handle to gently lever the roll-bar upwards to allow easy insertion of lower bolt. Tighten to specified torque (which I do not have, so 'tight' was my setting).

 

Replace the wheel and repeat for the other side. Take car out for a drive and 'listen' to the silence and enjoy the ride.

[Guest crazy]

Got fed up with the noise coming from the suspension whilst going over minor bumps on the road surface, so decided to change the drop links. I searched the forum but could not find anyone that had posted the 'how to' so thought I'd add it here for reference. I am not a pro Mechanic, so this is not necessarily the 'official' way of changing the links, nor maybe the best, but hopefully may help someone who wishes to save themselves money at a garage.

 

The job of changing them itself is not difficult. Anyone with the slightest ability should be able to do these, however I had to apply a LOT of brute force.

 

Costs :-

 

£26.50 for the pair from a local motor factors (note - actual box came marked up for Peugeot, so must be common across several models of French cars).

 

Tools used :-

 

Note - the ones fitted differed slightly in nut size between the old and new, therefore needed different sets to remove and fit new ones.

 

To remove - 18mm (yes, 18mm) ring spanner (swan neck gave more clearance) or a deep 18mm socket on 1/2" drive (recommended). 17mm open ended spanner. Hammer. Extension bar (to give greater leverage). Release oil, wire brush.

 

Optional - blow torch or angle grinder!

 

To refit - 5mm hex key and 19mm ring spanner (may differ dependant on the parts purchased - this was what was on mine).

 

Time taken - about 3 hours due to heavily corroded threads and only being able to get about 1/8 of a turn at a time, otherwise would easily be done both sides in under an hour.

 

How I did it :-

 

Raise the car to its top suspension setting. Loosen the wheel nuts. Chock the other 3 wheels. Raise car on trolley jack. Remove wheel.

 

The link rods can easily be seen (approx 18" length, solid bar with ball joints both ends fitted between the side of the shock body and roll-bar). Due to the flex in the roll-bar I suggest attempting the lower bolt first, as the top bolt tight will help reduce the movement whilst having to force the bolt to undo!

 

If you have time, spray liberally with release oil and leave to soak (best to do previous night), but I didn't think about this until the time I started the job! Carefully wire bursh the exposed thread section (if necessary) to remove excess corrosion. Apply a small amount of oil to help lubricate the old nut as it undoes.

 

Undo the nut! On mine these were 18mm, were siezed solid and I had to apply a lot of force to get it to move (you may wish to use a blow torch to get some heat to the bolt first, just take care doing this as you are close to the break lines).

 

Once the nut was moving the whole threaded section continued to rotate at the same time. On the ball-joint side of the arm was a 17mm flat to use to stop the whole thing rotating. If I had a 18mm deep socket I would have definetley used it at this point (may be worth paying a fiver or so and aquire one just because of the time and effort saved over using a spanner - just check that yours are 18mm before purchasing).

 

Remove the top bolt in a similar fashion. Replacing was easy and took mere minutes. I fitted the top bolt first, then used the jack handle to gently lever the roll-bar upwards to allow easy insertion of lower bolt. Tighten to specified torque (which I do not have, so 'tight' was my setting).

 

Replace the wheel and repeat for the other side. Take car out for a drive and 'listen' to the silence and enjoy the ride.

good tips spent half hour with spanners nothing would give except my skin angle ginder solved problem 2 minutes thanks for your info

[techbod]

very good tips there but I have to agree the angle grinder was the quickest IF your putting new ones on only ;)

[ando7p]

Love the 'tache on the avatar!!

 

To be honest I had the angle grinder out ready to use when I discovered it was broke, otherwise was going to use it! Half an hour of losing skin, patience and grinding down of teeth had me reaching for it.

 

Finding out that it didn't work gave me a fresh adrenaline rush and the strength to belt the living daylights out of it and get the nuts moving!

[Johngartyuk]

Lots of rattling noise when driving along the rubbishy roads round here in my 2004 HDi estate, I replaced the drop rods relatively easily, but still noise from the front end (mainly the drivers side) when going over bumps. Can any of you clever people give a few pointers as to what it is likely to be the cause? I would like to do any work involved myself if possible, for economic reasons!

 

Many thanks

[techbod]

lower wishbone ball joint/track rod end this should show worn outer/inner tyre tread.

[Johngartyuk]

Thanks for the fast reply Techbod. The front tyres are both surprisingly worn for their relative youth come to mention it.

[iannez]

if there tight i use a lever bar to pop out the ball joint so you can get hold of the back with some grips while you wind the nut off.