Engine Undertray

[Guest Peter07]

Oct 2005 2.2 C5 VTR HD estate 43,000 miles

 

Can anyone help me with this? I was sure I had seen a reference on how to do it on this forum but not been able to turn it up by searching.

 

Peter

[Guest Peter07]

Oct 2005 2.2 C5 VTR HD estate 43,000 miles

 

Can anyone help me with this? I was sure I had seen a reference on how to do it on this forum but not been able to turn it up by searching.

 

Peter

 

I should have said I want to remove the cover to get access to the bottom of the radiator to drain the cooing system. Following a complete loss of coolant (see earlier post) I had to fill the system with water. I have now got 3 litres of Antigel so I need to drain off 3 litres of water to get it into the system. If there is an EASIER WAY please let me know.

Peter

[mlkey]

I should have said I want to remove the cover to get access to the bottom of the radiator to drain the cooing system. Following a complete loss of coolant (see earlier post) I had to fill the system with water. I have now got 3 litres of Antigel so I need to drain off 3 litres of water to get it into the system. If there is an EASIER WAY please let me know.

Peter

 

The engine tray comes off very easily, 4 10mm bolts and a few quick release fixings (flat blade screwdriver required). You also need a header tank to bleed the coolant system properly.

 

Release the spring clip from the bottom hose connection, and wriggle it out of the radiator gently, suggest you let all the coolant come out. Replace the hose and insert spring clip when done. Find an old plastic squash bottle, and cut the bottom off, I used some insulation tape around the cap end to pack it out to fit the top of the expansion tank. Put your antigel in, and then continue with water until the squash bottle is close to full too.

 

Ensure you have some plenty of water ready, as it will go down quite quick when you run the engine.

 

Start it up, and let it idle. First, remove the bleed cap on the hose by the bulkhead, and keep it open until you have a clear stream of water, with no bubbles, then replace cap. Don't over tighten as they split easy. Then remove the cap from the valve on the thermostat housing and do the same, all the time, ensuring the header bottle is pretty full.

 

Then let the thing run until the fan cuts in. You will find some coolant may rise up and spill from the header during the process. Once complete, switch off and remove the header bottle, be careful, it will be hot. Replace expansion bottle cap and allow to cool. If the level is too high when cold, easiest way is to let a bit out through the bleed valve when its under pressure, don't do it cold as you will let air back in.

 

Not sure 3 litres is enough? Will be fine in summer, but the system holds around 10 litres if I recall, so that will only be around a 30% mix, not really enough for the winter months.

 

Hope that helps.

[Guest Peter07]

The engine tray comes off very easily, 4 10mm bolts and a few quick release fixings (flat blade screwdriver required). You also need a header tank to bleed the coolant system properly.

 

Release the spring clip from the bottom hose connection, and wriggle it out of the radiator gently, suggest you let all the coolant come out. Replace the hose and insert spring clip when done. Find an old plastic squash bottle, and cut the bottom off, I used some insulation tape around the cap end to pack it out to fit the top of the expansion tank. Put your antigel in, and then continue with water until the squash bottle is close to full too.

 

Ensure you have some plenty of water ready, as it will go down quite quick when you run the engine.

 

Start it up, and let it idle. First, remove the bleed cap on the hose by the bulkhead, and keep it open until you have a clear stream of water, with no bubbles, then replace cap. Don't over tighten as they split easy. Then remove the cap from the valve on the thermostat housing and do the same, all the time, ensuring the header bottle is pretty full.

 

Then let the thing run until the fan cuts in. You will find some coolant may rise up and spill from the header during the process. Once complete, switch off and remove the header bottle, be careful, it will be hot. Replace expansion bottle cap and allow to cool. If the level is too high when cold, easiest way is to let a bit out through the bleed valve when its under pressure, don't do it cold as you will let air back in.

 

Not sure 3 litres is enough? Will be fine in summer, but the system holds around 10 litres if I recall, so that will only be around a 30% mix, not really enough for the winter months.

 

Hope that helps.

 

It certainly does, fantastic detail, thanks for taking the time.

You said you wondered about 3 litres being enough, so did I, and you will see from my other post today I was asking what the capacity was as the dealer couldn't tell me (yes, a main dealer!) - came back with "Our mechanics always use 3 litres when filling from empty." So thats what I got but saw later that the recommended dilution was 1:1 which would give the system capacity as 6 litres which I didn't think could be right. Maybe somone else can add to this as I think your 10 litres has to be nearer the mark, either that or the dilution isn't 1:1.

Still on this topic the following is a direct quote from an email I had from Citroen, didn't answer the question but said:

 

"There is no requirement to use OAT type Anti-Freeze for your vehicles engine.

If you require any further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact me via our Citroën Contact Centre on 0844 463 3500."

[mlkey]

It certainly does, fantastic detail, thanks for taking the time.

You said you wondered about 3 litres being enough, so did I, and you will see from my other post today I was asking what the capacity was as the dealer couldn't tell me (yes, a main dealer!) - came back with "Our mechanics always use 3 litres when filling from empty." So thats what I got but saw later that the recommended dilution was 1:1 which would give the system capacity as 6 litres which I didn't think could be right. Maybe somone else can add to this as I think your 10 litres has to be nearer the mark, either that or the dilution isn't 1:1.

Still on this topic the following is a direct quote from an email I had from Citroen, didn't answer the question but said:

 

"There is no requirement to use OAT type Anti-Freeze for your vehicles engine.

If you require any further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact me via our Citroën Contact Centre on 0844 463 3500."

 

I purchased a 5L can of the red stuff (5 year long life) from Halfords. If you use the long life, you must make sure all traces of old coolant are gone, as they will dramatically shorten the life of any organic coolant.

[coastline taxis]

If you look at the bottom of the radiator youl seee a drain plug just put your hand down from the top and slacken it and it will drain the hole system without having to remove the undertray and the cooling fan needs to cut in 3 times

[Guest Peter07]

If you look at the bottom of the radiator youl seee a drain plug just put your hand down from the top and slacken it and it will drain the hole system without having to remove the undertray and the cooling fan needs to cut in 3 times

 

Thanks Coastline, will go and look for that now.

 

About the fan cutting in I have noticed that the fan kicks in only a couple of seconds after the engine starts, even from cold. Most of my other cars in recent years had some sort of viscous coupling which made the fan "freewheel" at all times but when it cut in it was quite obvious that it had - all made a racket that you couldn't miss. As yet, except when I lost all coolant, I have not noticed the fan on the C5 do that even after prolonged idling on the recent hot weather we had last week and the temperature gauge never moves past its 'normal' level.

[mlkey]

Thanks Coastline, will go and look for that now.

 

About the fan cutting in I have noticed that the fan kicks in only a couple of seconds after the engine starts, even from cold. Most of my other cars in recent years had some sort of viscous coupling which made the fan "freewheel" at all times but when it cut in it was quite obvious that it had - all made a racket that you couldn't miss. As yet, except when I lost all coolant, I have not noticed the fan on the C5 do that even after prolonged idling on the recent hot weather we had last week and the temperature gauge never moves past its 'normal' level.

 

Re the cooling fan, be sure to turn off the Air con while doing the coolant, as this will cause the fans to run constantly.

[Guest Peter07]

Re the cooling fan, be sure to turn off the Air con while doing the coolant, as this will cause the fans to run constantly.

 

Brilliant tip that mlkey, that has cured that problem for me, thanks.

 

Coastline - can't locate anything resembling a drain cock on the radiator, can either of you give me a clue as to where it is located? What I have noticed is that on the right hand side of the main radiator (looking from the front) there is a smaller radiator. There doesn't seem to be any link between the two but can't see the bottom of it. Can you tell me what this is?

[mlkey]

Brilliant tip that mlkey, that has cured that problem for me, thanks.

 

Coastline - can't locate anything resembling a drain cock on the radiator, can either of you give me a clue as to where it is located? What I have noticed is that on the right hand side of the main radiator (looking from the front) there is a smaller radiator. There doesn't seem to be any link between the two but can't see the bottom of it. Can you tell me what this is?

 

The small radiator is the intercooler for the turbo, is air to air, no fluids involved there. As for the draining, I did what you mentioned previously, which was remove the bottom hose connection. I also did it from above and did not remove the engine tray, it worked fine.. If you do pull the bottom hose, be sure not to damage the O ring seal, and also make sure the wire spring clip locates correctly when refitting.

[coastline taxis]

The drain plug will be on the bottom on the rad but taking the hose of like milkey says is just as effective Will post the correct bleeding sequence on here for you

[coastline taxis]

183

ENGINE

FILLING AND BLEEDING THE COOLING CIRCUIT C5

TOOLS

[1] Filling cylinder : 4520-T

[2] Adaptor for filling cylinder : 4222-T.

ESSENTIAL : Respect the safety and cleanliness recommendations.

- The draining and refilling operations can be carried out by means of a WINN’S coolant replacement

apparatus or similar; it is essential to follow the instructions when using this apparatus.

Filling and bleeding

- Fit the cylinder adaptor [2] 4222-T and the filling cylinder [1] 4520 -T.

- Use the coolant to ensure protection between - 15°C and - 37°C.

- Slowly fill the system.

NOTE : Keep the cylinder filled up (visible level).

- Close each bleed screw as soon as the coolant flows without air bubbles.

- Start the engine : Engine speed 1500 rpm.

- Maintain this speed until the third cooling cycle (cooling fans have cut in and cut out).

- Stop the engine and allow it to cool down.

- Remove the filling cylinder [1] 4520-T and the adaptor [2] 4222-T.

- Top up the system to the maximum mark, with the engine cold.

- Refit the filler cap.

B1GP00AC E5AP1GNC

[Guest Peter07]

The small radiator is the intercooler for the turbo, is air to air, no fluids involved there. As for the draining, I did what you mentioned previously, which was remove the bottom hose connection. I also did it from above and did not remove the engine tray, it worked fine.. If you do pull the bottom hose, be sure not to damage the O ring seal, and also make sure the wire spring clip locates correctly when refitting.

 

Thanks again. Between you and coastline obviously lie all the answers to questions about the C5.

The downside is I might post more!

[Guest Peter07]

183

ENGINE

FILLING AND BLEEDING THE COOLING CIRCUIT C5

TOOLS

[1] Filling cylinder : 4520-T

[2] Adaptor for filling cylinder : 4222-T.

ESSENTIAL : Respect the safety and cleanliness recommendations.

- The draining and refilling operations can be carried out by means of a WINN’S coolant replacement

apparatus or similar; it is essential to follow the instructions when using this apparatus.

Filling and bleeding

- Fit the cylinder adaptor [2] 4222-T and the filling cylinder [1] 4520 -T.

- Use the coolant to ensure protection between - 15°C and - 37°C.

- Slowly fill the system.

NOTE : Keep the cylinder filled up (visible level).

- Close each bleed screw as soon as the coolant flows without air bubbles.

- Start the engine : Engine speed 1500 rpm.

- Maintain this speed until the third cooling cycle (cooling fans have cut in and cut out).

- Stop the engine and allow it to cool down.

- Remove the filling cylinder [1] 4520-T and the adaptor [2] 4222-T.

- Top up the system to the maximum mark, with the engine cold.

- Refit the filler cap.

B1GP00AC E5AP1GNC

 

Thanks very much for that, as I said in response to mikey between you there can't be much you don't know about the C5.

[mlkey]

Thanks very much for that, as I said in response to mikey between you there can't be much you don't know about the C5.

 

Coastline is a very helpful guy, helped me out loads when I had to do my head gasket! Hope you got it sorted :lol:

[Guest Peter07]

Coastline is a very helpful guy, helped me out loads when I had to do my head gasket! Hope you got it sorted :unsure:

 

He certainly is, you too. Thanks to you both my problem sorted. If only Citroen would answer queries................................

 

Peter