I did the trick with the silver trim (3 clips, one at the glove-box side and two at the steering wheel side) and the panel with the gear lever gaiter and climate control panel lifts from the ash tray end. Disconnect the black, white and red plugs and you can unclip the gaiter and lift the panel over the gear lever. You can then see both bulb holders and twist them out. No tools required on my 2004 2.2 HDi SX. Now - if you're used to Citroens of years ago, beware! The bulb holders don't seem to take separate grain-of-rice bulbs any more. The wires of the bulbs are heat-stamped onto the contacts of the black holders so you can't just change the bulbs, the bulb is a unit with the holder. Removing the bulb will break the wire and render the bulb useless (as I found out). Either you have to buy bulb and holder or do what I did and raid the spares box so I could replace the holders with those from a long-dead CX.