skysurfer

I don't think my reply is going to help you much but as nobody else has piped up... I've changed a diesel injector pump on a '97 P reg Xantia TD and I know that the keypad code moves with the injector pump. (You need to know the keypad code for the new pump you are fitting). The electronics on the pump is secured with a metal cover and shear bolts. i.e. fairly secure against tampering/theft. In contrast, you're suggesting that the code resides in the engine ECU on a petrol Xantia? An item that can be swapped in seconds for an ECU that you (they) know the keypad code for. Doesn't sound anything like as secure. I've just bought an HDi Xantia and apparently on that the imobiliser (inductive pickup from a chip in the key when ignition is turned on) is dealt with by the "body computer" which is at least fairly difficult to get at as it's in the dash above the heater fan. I assume this computer then communicates an imobiliser go/nogo status to the engine ECU in a reasonably secure manner. The only slightly relivant help I can offer is that the IR keyfob is only for operating the central locking and deadlocks and alarm and it has nothing to do with the engine imobiliser. Good luck! Alan

I'm not sure why people are talking about removing the steering wheel/airbag for this. I've had the lower steering coulmn cover off a couple of times, first for a turning indicator switch problem and again to fit a bypass relay for the ignition switch heater blower contacts on my 1997 1.9TD SX. (Xantia 2's should already have this relay fitted as standard). I've never had the steering wheel off in over 10 years of ownership. (But then I do have a few blown bulbs on the dash that I haven't bothered about!) Alan

Hi atr The blower speed regulator is inside the blower assembly right next to the blower motor. This is located just where you would expect from the noise it is making at full speed! That is, it's above the passenger's feet. Remove the furry cover and then 3 crosshead screws remove the motor & speed controller. (To the left of the pollen filter). I assume you have the speed selector which has an "Auto" setting. In which case the speed regulator will have 2 large transistors and a relay. (No power resistors). In your case it sounds like the relay is allowing you to get the full speed setting and the knackered transistors are preventing you from getting any other speeds. See my rather extensive reply in the "Heater Fan Is Intermitent" thread for further info. Alan

I guess Shaun has this sorted by now as his post was over 4 months ago. This sounds like the problem I had on my 1997 1.9TD SX about 8 years ago. It turned out the cam belt had slipped/jumped a tooth. In my case this was because the edge of the auxiliary belt had broken up and some of the debris had got under the timing belt crankshaft pulley allowing the timing belt to slip. The "event" was fairly obvious with the engine light coming on and enough additional "diesel" noise to make me stop straight away and have a look under the bonet. The whole drivers side of the engine was covered in long fibre strands from the chewed up aux belt which was now missing a few mm down the engine side. I continued to drive it carefully doing about 200 miles over the following week or so while I thought about what to do about it. (The handbook said go to to your dealer ASAP, not stop the engine and get it towed to a garage). Then one evening after work I found it just wouldn't start. I guess it had slipped another tooth. Cam belt and aux belts replaced and all was well with no other damage. Alan

I was going to change the filter on my Xantia 2.0 HDi today but the Haynes manual put me off! It says the filter housing must be cleaned with parafin or "injector test fluid" and then dried only with special "Resistel" cleaning cloth and not anything else. (I used to use kitchen roll to get any bits out of the filter housing on the 1.9TD). It also says to renew the drain screw and it's "o" ring each time the filter is drained. Do people really do all this? I couldn't find the Resistel cloths on eBay, so I'm thinking that means they are not in common use?! Johndouglas' photo and description of how to release the hose connectors is useful - Thanks. I also have an intermittent engine warning light and P0230 fault code. (Primary fuel system). It appears this may be the fuel tank pump or the non return valve in that pump, or a blocked fuel filter or an always open pressure relief/return (to tank) valve in the fuel filter canister assembly. Can anyone point me towards which outlet on the filter housing has this pressure relief valve on it so that I can take a look at it when I change the filter? Thanks Alan

Just fixed mine. (2000 Xantia 2.0 HDI Exclusive). It wouldn't run at any of the low/medium speed settings, only flat out and even that was only when it felt like it! If the windscreen was all misted up you could bet that was when it wouldn't run at all. I replaced the 2 large transistors on the speed controller module (curved aluminium heatsink) which is mounted next to the blower motor which is above the passengers feet. Re-fitted the repaired module to the car last night and all is working fine. The transistors I fitted were MJ11015 obtained from eBay for £6.51 delivered for the two. The existing transistors (type FW26025A1 on mine but they do fit other types I think) are fitted with rivets which need to be drilled out from the non PCB side and punched out and then the transistors need to be unsoldered, using solder braid or a solder pump. The new transistors are fitted using M4 screws/nuts in place of the rivets and they need thermal paste on the underside of the transistors. I also added a solder tag to each of the transistors then linked the tags with a wire and then also wired the tags to the body of the relay on the PCB as I didn't like to trust the corroded heatsink as an electrical connection. (This is perhaps overkill!) If you're not into drilling/soldering then you will need to get a replacement speed controller module. (Often incorrectly called a resistor module. I think this was because on the early Xantias which didn't have the "Auto" fan speed setting this module was just a number of resistors). I think the module is about £40 on eBay. Things to try first: 1. Check you have about 14V (engine running) between the thick red & black wires which go into the brown 4-way connector on the fan unit both when the fan runs and when it decides it isn't going to. 2. If you don't have the above voltage or don't have a meter to check it then (I hear) there is a green relay above the drivers accelerator pedal which you could try re-seating. (Pulling it out of it's socket and pushing it back in). 3. Check the 4-way connector on the fan unit is making good contact. On my old 1997 Xantia 1.9TD SX the red contact was intermittent and I used to re-seat the connector to get the blower to work. (The ignition may need to be cycled to get the fan to work after moving the connector). Eventually the brown 4-way connector plastic melted and I had to fit a new contact on the red wire! 4. Try oiling the fan motor bearings. If the windscreen has been replaced and the black plastic tray between the windscreen and bonet has not been glued back onto the new windscreen then you will get rain dripping into the fresh air inlet which fills up the housing that the blower fan motor is sitting in. In any case It's worth oiling the fan bearings if you take the motor out. I used "3 in one" oil aerosol with a long tube. (WD40 isn't much good as a long term lubricant). Try not to get too much on the motor brushes. If the motor has been really stiff to turn then it may also have blown the speed controller. 5. For those with a pre 1998 Xantia, it won't have the green relay and will be prone to the ignition switch contact going intermittent (if this is the cause then you will find that the rear window heater won't come on when the fan fails to opperate). I had this (along with another connector problem) on my 1997 1.9TD SX. If the ignition switch is the problem then it is best bypassed with an additional relay. This is a fairly simple job. I remember I did mine in a Sainsburys car park! The relay is fitted under the stearing column. A Google for "Xantia heater/blower fan relay" will probably get you the info for this. (Won't apply to Buck_ejit's 1999 vintage Xantia which I assume already has the relay fitted above the accelerator pedal). When you've got it working, don't forget to fit the cable tie which holds the brown 4-way connector onto the underside of the fan housing. Otherwise the connector will work it's way out and this can also cause the connector to overheat and cause aditional damage in a few months time. (Been there!) Interesting things I noticed in my recent investigation: 1. I believe that the 2 large transistors are responsible for providing the 3 (or so) medium speeds of the fan and the relay on the same module closes for the full speed setting. I was supprised to see that the full speed setting is also effected (works when it feels like it) when the transistors are blown. (For anyone inrerested - the "Emitter" pin was open circuit on both of the transistors that I removed). 2. While I was waiting for the transistors to arrive, I temoprarily fitted the fan motor and speed controller from my old Xantia 1997 1.9TD SX to my 2000 2.0 HDI Exclusive. For some reason the single wire connector (which needs to be connected to the blower assembly (in addition to the brown 4-way connector) was 10 cm too short and had a female connector which I couldn't connect to the 2000 wiring loom as that also had a female connector! When I tried the fan without this single connection the fan briefly runs to about 1/3 power for a couple of seconds and then goes back to a very slow idle. So if anyones fan behaves like that the they may have a break in that single wire connector. I made up an extension/adaptor lead to connect up the single lead and the 1997 vintage fan then worked fine on the 2000 Xantia. (The 1997 1.9TD SX also had aircon and a fan speed selector with the "Auto" setting position). Good luck! Alan

Citroen want about £50 for this lead. Auto factors don't appear to sell generic leads and the auto electrical place I tried wasn't going to do a very impressive job of it. I got an M8 lug from eBay to accept 35mm2 of wire and soldered that on with a butane torch. Then added 2 layers of heat shrink sleeve for strain releif and then self-amalgamating tape to keep water out. I cleaned up the stud on the gearbox and re-fitted the new M8 lug to this. After starting the engine a couple of times it was obvious that things still were not right. The volt meter showed over 0.4V between the engine and the battery negative with the engine running & headlights on. I got about the same reading between the engine block and the gearbox stud that the negative lead attached to. I moved earth lead to an M8 bolt a few inches forward and inboard of the origonal stud. The cable now crosses above the clutch cable inner. With a little re-routing the lead is long enough to allow for engine movement. I've had this car since it was 3 years old (now 13) and I'm sure it didn't start this well when I first got it! The engine to negative battery terminal voltage is now 0.006V (6mV) with the light on and engine running and 0.002V with the lights off and engine running. The battery now charges to 14.3V with main beam lights on (14.44V with lights off). Previously it was only getting to 13.9V due to the volt drop at the gearbox stud, so a well charged battery is helping as well as having minimal volt drop when the starter is cranking. I hope this helps someone! Alan PS. Anyone have use for a brand new type 096 battery that I bought and now don't need to fit?

Unfortunately I can't help you with the seized bolt. Is this the bolt that the caliper rotates about when you are changing the disc pads? (I assume you know the hydraulic piston has to be "screwed" back and not just pushed back when you're changing the pads?) I've done 125,000 of the 192,000 miles on my Xantia and the only work in that area has been changing brake pads, off side ABS sensor, the near side anti-roll bar drop link (twice) and the height adjuster "dog bone" link. (Didn't really need it but the rear one had worn out, so I changed the front one as well). I was wondering what has happened, that you need to remove the caliper?

Just a bit of lateral thinking... Is the suspension height normal? It isn't just at max or min height is it? (In either case it would be rock solid!) Could be the "Dog Bone" plastic link has come off. It links the rear anti-roll bar to the rear height control valve. Mine fell off at about 160,000 miles when stopped at the petrol station ;) Alan.

My Xantia has been difficult to start for years. Needing lots of glow plug time and only giving a couple of chances with the starter before it appeared the battery was flat. I got the volt meter out the other day and tracked it down to the earth connection to the engine. I found it starts very well if I use a jump start lead between the battery negative and the engine. I cleaned up the lead connection onto the gearbox clutch bracket and it is a lot better now. However, at the M8 terminal on the gearbox, the thinner lead had broken off (which returns to the inner wing) and half of the strands in the main lead were also broken. The cable had been tied too close to the engine so there wasn't enough free wire to alow for engine movement. Where can I get a replacement negative battery lead? I expected this to be a fairly standard item I could probably get on ebay but I can only find a couple of battery leads for classic cars. Can I only get this from Citroen? Or is it something that I get an electrical speciallist to make for me? Or is there somewhere that sells a wide range of leads where I can choose from? The thick (25 T2) lead is 750mm from the negative battery connector to an M8 ring terminal. The negative battery connector also has a thinner (10 T2) 220mm lead to an M6 ring terminal. The M8 ring terminal also has a thinner (10 T2) 400mm lead to an M6 ring terminal. Cheers Alan

I've had problems with the blower stopping eratically. That was just the connector in the underside of the fan moror. after pushing it back on properly many times, I tightened the terminals a bit with pliers and it has been a lot better since then. There is also a problem with heater motor power from it's fuse. This also makes the rear window heater intermittent on my 1997 1.9TD SX Estate. I think it's fuse 30. According to the Haynes electrical diagram it should be just feeding a relay which operates the rear window de-mister (it is) and also powering a relay for the heater fan (aircon with auto fan control). Unfortunately it isn't like the diagram and it takes its full fan power (just over 16 amps at max speed) through the 16 Amp fuse! This doesn't actually blow the fuse, but the 12V feed to the fuse dies down to about 8V sometimes then sometimes down to nothing :huh: I usually have to turn the engine off/on to get the fan or rear heater working again after they die and be careful about using the high fan speed. I don't have a fix for this :P Although I have released the fuse tray from the underside of the dash, I can't get at the wiring on the back as I can only move the fuse tray about 20mm which isn't enough to see any of the feed wires. I might be able to get somewhere from the front side if I took all of the fuses out but I don't want to do this as I don't know the radio code :D Good luck!

I would like too but I haven't managed to complete the registration to join :P They havent sent me an activation email and my username etc isn't working. :huh:

I had the rapid indicator light and ticking on the dashboard but no lights flashing outside. This only happened when indicating right (on a right hand drive car). If the indicator stalk was just pulled down a bit from its maximum up (right) position then it worked correctly, flashing the outside and dashboard lights at the normal rate. I now have a carefully chosen elastic band around the indicator stalk pulling down to some point on the underside of the steering column :huh: Don't over do it or it will start to indicate left when it canceld from right :P The elastic band can be compleetly hiden behind the stalk's rubber dust flap and under the steering column covers. that should also keep sunlight off the elastic band which will make it last a lot longer :D

Has anyone seen something like this before? My Xantia 1.9TD SX will start (rather reluctantly) and idle (750rpm - it was normally 1000rpm) but the revs hardly change at all when the throttle arm moves on the injector pump, remaining at a slow idle even at full throttle. (No unusual noise, quite smooth running). If the injector pump detects turbo boost then it will pick up and rev fairly normally, responding to the throttle arm on the pump. Obviously there is no boost at idle, but it can be initiated in several ways: 1) Using ether (Easy-Start aerosol) to get the revs up over 2000 rpm. 2) Rolling the car down a hill and releasing the clutch in gear to get the revs up over 2000 rpm. 3) Connect a tube to the atmospheric pressure vent on the underside of the injector pump boost sensing diaphragm. Suck very hard on the tube with the engine running. After about 30 seconds the revs will build to over 2000 rpm and there is then no need to suck the tube. So long as the revs are kept up then it will run indefinately and will respond to the throttle. I have driven the car over 10 miles like this. I don't think it has as much max power as it should. If climbing a hill the revs can be held as low as 1700rpm without dying back to idle but if there is no load on the engine then it will die back to idle if the revs are ever allowed to fall below 2000rpm. It doesn't actually require turbo boost to run, it just needs the injector pump to think there is boost! I've run it with the inlet manifold disconnected from the intercooler ducting and squirted Easy Start into the manifold to get the revs up. Once over 2000rpm it can be reved on the throttle and no more Easy Start spray is needed. When this fault developed I had run very low on diesel and it felt as though it was loosing power for the last half mile before filling up with diesel. It was still low on power after filling up. The idle was slower than normal and the throttle response was not normal. (Needed to press pedal further before it would rev). I kept the revs fairly high for the next mile before parking at the shop we were going to. When I came out of the shop and started the engine it would only idle and did not rev in response to the throttle... On getting the car towed home I changed the fuel filter. It didn't appear to be particularly blocked and there wasn't much residue in the filter container. There was no water in the filter container. I could easily pump fuel into the filter chamber with the primer bulb before I put the lid on it with the new filter. I slackened the union at the injector pump inlet and could pump fuel free of air from it with the primer bulb. With the engine running I cracked the pipe connections at 2 of the injectors (1 at a time - couldn't get to the other 2). The revs dropped and the idle slightly rough and fuel leaked out for each one. With the engine stopped but the ignition on and the keypad code entered I slackened the injector diesel return union and could pump air free fuel from there with the primer bulb. After looking at diagrams and descriptions of how the boost sensing works, I removed the dust cap from the top of the boost sensor diaphragm and adjusted the screw down by 3 turns. This made no difference. I then removed the 4 torx screws and removed the top of the boost sensor and its diaphragm along with the shaft with the offset cone on the end. The pin that rides on the cone was not visible, but it did pop into the central hole when the throttle was opened. I put a pen down the hole as a stop to prevent the pin from being pushed through too far and falling into the central hole where the cone should be. With this mod the revs now pick up from idle without any further trickery! Even with this temporary modification I can't continously HOLD the revs anywhere between 800 and 1600rpm although it idles ok at about 800 and I can rev it anywhere up to about 4800 and hold at any constant revs I want at 1600rpm or greater! Is it definately the injector pump? Is there anything else I can dismantle/check with the pump on the engine? Could it be the cam belt slipped? (This has happened before on this car and it ran ok then but it had more "diesel" noise than usual and the engine warning light was on. After running for some days it probably slipped another tooth and it would not start). I guess there could be different simptoms depending on which pulley slips on the cambelt. (Crankshaft/Injector/Camshaft). I've never managed to find the timing hole in the bell housing/flywheel on this engine. Is it just above the starter motor? Could it be something electrical? This injector pump has a throttle pot on the top of the throttle shaft. There is a sense wire on one of the 4 injectors. There are 4 wires going into the end of the pump. (I think this is to do with the keypad imobiliser). I've had this car from 65,000 miles and it now has 160,000 miles. The cam belt has about 40,000 on it. The injector pump is Bosch 0 460 494 427 / R 601-2 / XUD BP 02 I had no replies on the GSF forum. I hope you guys can help me. Thanks for any ideas!

I don't know if this car is "drive by wire" i.e. no mechanical throttle cable connection to the throttle pedal. If it is then I would think it wants a new sender unit or throttle pot or whatever it may be called for the throttle pedal. If you remember when the volume control on a radio was a rotary knob (not +/- buttons), often on an old well used radio the sound would crackle and even go off at some volume settings but if you moved the knob to a slightly different volume all would be well. The part of the throttle senders travel near idle which gets used all the time is well worn but at higher throttle levels it isn't worn so much and works fine...