Malcolm

Hi. The tyre was a new one bought by me about 20,000 miles ago and has only been fitted to that hub. The wheel bearing seems fine ie: no noise or lateral movement if I spin it by hand.Interestingly if I stand back and look at the wheel from behind it appears if anything to have negative camber, the opposite of what one would expect. The tyre on the opposite side shows only normal even wear. Malcolm

Hi guys. C5 2.2 2002 Hatch Back. I've just noticed my N/S rear tyre is very badly worn on the outside edge. I assumed that this was trailing arm bearing wear but I have also read quite a few times on this site that when trailing arm bearings are gone that you get wear on the INSIDE edge of the tyre. Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Regards Malcolm

Hi Afy. I've just come across your post and there is quite a lot of it. I haven't read it all but if I summarise it, it appears that the car doesn't want to run for any length of time. You then go on to say that if you open the fuel filter and or the fuel filler it will run ok for 2-3 days. This is a classic sign of the fuel tank breather blocked. Take the fuel cap off and try running the car without it Regards Malcolm

Hi Early 2002 2.2HDI 59000 miles. Well thanks to all the advice from everyone I've topped up the eolys fluid [it took 4 litres so I guess it was getting quite low] and cleaned out the DPF. I took the DPF and the CAT off as one as the upper bolts on the DPF are very difficult to get to in situ. The bolts on the DPF were very tight and I was concerned they might break,however I had some new stainless 8mm nuts and bolts handy in case so naturally they didn't. Cleaned out the DPF with a jet wash for about 35-45 minutes until the water ran clean and also jet washed the CAT as well. Wasn't sure if a CAT should be washed but I felt it could do little harm so I did anyway. Reassembled the DPF and CAT using copper grease on the bolts and refitted everything. Oh, and by the way before starting the job I made sure I disconnected the battery first as it seems to me if the the car's awake and knows what you're doing it usually makes a fuss and throws up a fault code just to spoil all your efforts. Anyway the end result is the car's running perfectly, no fault codes and at a total cost of about £130 for the eolys fluid. If anyone else is thinking taking on this job go ahead and do it. It really isn't that difficult and the potential savings make it very worth while. Regards Malcolm

Hi. You say that having an early model 2.2 HDI you can just top up the fluid and not have to reset the computer. I have an 02 reg. Is that an early model? How can I find out? Regards Malcolm

I'm a boat owner so I'm very familiar with this problem. It's galvanic reaction caused by two different metals in contact with each other.The steel swinging arm and the aluminium alloy caliper. The reaction is so strong that the corrosion where the two metals touch forces them apart and pushes the caliper so far sideways that it touches the disc causing the squeal. It actually stretches the very high tensile steel bolts by about 3mm. If anyone had told me this before I saw it with my own eyes I would not have believed it. However I had a Xantia before my current C5 that has exactly the same design of brakes and hence the same problem. The difficulty of dismantling is the locking fluid used by Citroen on assembly down the entire length of the caliper bolts. Once dismantled you can clean off the old locking fluid and on reassembly just apply a little to the "end" of the threads. To prevent the problem recurring you need to isolate the 2 metals where they touch. I used a piece of cling film and I've heard of people painting one or both of the surfaces. Both work perfectly well but with paint you have to let it dry before reassembly. Regards Malcolm

Thanks Allan and Random Bloke. Job done. I even managed to get to the adjuster without removing any of the electrics. A tad tight mind you but worth it as the entire job only took 15 minutes. Thanks also to the brick that held down the throttle pedal so I could see how much adjustment was required. Malcolm

Hi. Does anyone know how to adjust or replace the throttle cable on a 2.2HDI 2002 C5. This looks like a short cable that because it's a drive by wire system goes between the pedal and a potentiometer. I have a Haynes manual for the C5 but it doesn't cover the 2.2. Malcolm

Hi everyone. I have a 2.2HDI 2002 C5 hatchback. It has 54000 miles on the clock and I have wheel wobble It occurs worse at 70-75mph. The front tyres are fairly new Michelins [which I have always run] and they have been balanced twice by the tyre dealer that I've been using for many years and have had no problems with.I've checked the front suspension as thoroughly as I can and can find no appreciable wear in any of the components. It has recently passed it's MOT and the only remarks made by the tester was there was slight dampness around the top of the front struts. I've also had the tracking checked and no adjustment was required. Malcolm

Hi Bodger. I think you are experiencing a fairly common problem that's been covered in this forum before. I believe it's the plastic gears on the flaps that control the flow of air that have failed and therefore they don't move as directed by the controls. Unfortunately I can't remember the fix for it but if you look back it's certainly been covered in the past year. Sorry it's not much but hope it helps a bit. Regards Malcolm

Hi Johntom. I've just answered your other enquiry and then found this one. The problem is the fan speed control resistor. It's quite a common problem on the C5 and fairly easily and cheaply fixed. Depending on whether you have air con or climate control it will either cost you about £18 or £50. The actual resistor is mounted in the drivers footwell on the left hand side in the heater trunking and is a little fiddly to remove and refit but not too bad. I hope this helps. Regards Malcolm

Hi Johntom. I'm curious to know why you are looking for the heater blower. Has it stopped working? Does the display show the little fan signs but the blower doesn't work?. If so get back to me. Regards Malcolm

Hi all. I'm not 100% certain of this but I was led to believe the 2.2HDI has a drive by wire accelerator which uses a potentiometer and not a conventional throttle cable. Secondly I run a 2002 2.2HDI and I am fairly sure I have never revved it beyond 4500 rpm and would be disinclined to do so. This would be a pointless exercise anyway as this engine has most of it's torque between 1500 and 3500 and you will actually accelerate quicker by changing up a gear and therefore staying in in the middle of this band. Needless to say the saving on wear ,fuel and noise are yet more good reasons to keep the revs down. Malcolm

Hi guys. The lights on the LCD display, stereo and heater remain on and the dimmer switch which is on the main dash still works on these areas. It is the main dash display i:e speedo rev counter etc which goes out and fiddling with the dimmer switch has no affect on these. I think someone may have suggested it might be an earthing problem but as I have absolutely no idea where the dash is earthed I'm still lost. Taking the dash and checking and cleaning connections sounds good but how do you get it out?.Please keep coming up with suggestions. I'm grateful for anything. Regards Malcolm.

Hi again. When I said the lights go out I meant that if it's dark and the headlights are on I have the normal dash illumination. However, after a while and this can vary from 2 to 20 minutes ALL the dash lights extinguish. This includes things like the indicator warning lights. The instrumentation continues to work but at night time I can't see it. The dimmer switch is set on maximum and playing around with it does nothing once the lights have failed. It works normally otherwise. The number 24 fuse that apparently controls the dash illumination I've replaced to no avail. Digital dash?. No idea. It's a 2002 2.2 HDI SX. Malcolm

Hi anyone. I've still got this problem with my dash display. All starts up ok but after a short while all the dash illumination goes out including warning lights. It looks as if everything else is working ok. Techbod suggested it was a special fuse that overheats and then resets itself but as I have no idea where this fuse is so I can't do much about it. Anyone got any ideas. Malcolm

That was quick Techbod. Can you tell me where that fuse is please. Regards Malcolm

The dash display on my 2002 2.2HDI has just gone out. No illumination or warning lights at all. I have checked fuses f11 and f24 to no avail. The instruments work but that is all.

Hi. Yes you do have to remove the front bumper to get to the washer bottle. I had to do this recently to fix the washer pump. It really isn't as difficult as it seems although another pair of hands to actually lift it off and on is not a bad idea so you don't scratch the paint. If I remember correctly there are either 8 or 10 bolts and then it just slides forwrd and lifts off. The washer pump is then clearly visible on the offside front corner. I didn't remove the bottle itself as I didn't need but with the bumper off it has fairly good access to it. The pump and the water level sensor are only pushed into the plastic bottle with a rubber grommet to seal it and if either of those come loose or fall out you would loose the water so perhaps check that first before trying to remove the actual bottle. Regards Malcolm

HI Myglaren. It's a while since I replaced the resistor on my car but I don'tremember it being very difficult. As I recollect there were 2 screws holding the unit on to the trunking and I do remember someone else saying they could only get 1 screw back in at that the 2nd srew was almost impossible to replace but I certaintly got both of mine back ok. If you don't have any success get back to me and I'll go and stick my head under the dash and remind myself how I did it. Regards Malcolm

Hi every one. This might help. I recently had to take off and replace the washer pump and to do this I had to remove the front bumper. The thought was quite daunting. It took 10 minutes and about the same time to replace it and with the bumper out of the way I noticed you have excellent access to the headlamp securing screws. When the time comes for me to replace the headlamp bulbs that is definately the route I shall take. The bumper is quite large of course and an extra pair of hands lifting it off and on would not go amiss to prevent scratching the paintwork although I did manage it on my own. As I said the thought of removing the bumper is a bit daunting but in fact it was very easy. The car looks very strange with out it though. Regards Malcolm

Hi all. I had the very common problem of rear brake squeal on my 02 2.2 C5. When I removed the rear wheel to investigate I noticed that the pads appeared to be to large for the discs and as they had worn a lip of friction material was hanging over the edge of the disc. I took the pads of and removed this lip with some abrasive paper, reassembled every thing and the squeal had gone. Several thousand miles later the problem returned so this time I removed the pads and with an angle grinder sliced of the 4 or 5 millimeters of friction material that was'nt being used and apparently causing the squeal and the problem has not returned. I bought the car with 20,000 miles on the clock so I assume the pads were the originals. I hope the helps someone. Malcolm

Hi Taxibill. This sounds like it might be a variation on the very common fan resistor failure. Normally if the fan speed resistor fails you get no fan at all but yours may have decided to be extra difficult and only partly fail. As I say it's a common problem on the C5 and if you have a car with air conditioning a new resistor is about £20 but if you have climate control it's about £50. I have only replaced it on a C5 with climate control and it's situated in the heater trunking it self just to the left of the clutch pedal. I hope this helps. Regards Malcolm