Shemer

Check here: http://motorica.net/files/screenhunter_002.jpg Should fit.

Couldn't write it better. It's possible, but will cost you 2 times more than the car worth.

A cheap solution would be just rotating the strings around themselves several times. This will make the string to twist when the parcel comes into its place, not hang out of the trunk.

Depends on the quality of the local tap water. If water are "hard" (high PH) - it's better to used a ready mix. I use the PUG/CITROEN original coolant, which is called "TECHNIC".

How do you know that motor is OK? I would first check the connector below the motor, which supplies voltage to it. It tends to melt, then you get no operation of the motor.

It's strange that they told you it's only the shock absorbers. Are you sure that your torsion bars are OK? they're ususaly the first point of failure. The shock absorbers are supposed to stop the car from wobbling, but the torsion bars are actualy the spring in the rear suspension. Check before you spend money for nothing.

The problem can occur in either one of the following: 1. You have handle (below the middle part of the seat) which, while turning it counter clockwise) should enable you to move the seat. If it broken or not functioning - you will not be able to move the seat. 2. Some garbage, or little stone/object/what so ever is stuck in one of the rails (there are 3). you have to crawl there and see what is the cause for the seat to get stuck.

No point in putting new brake pads, since you'll probably need, as written, to change the whole rear beam (as your current one is bad, as written above)

Mostly it's the indicator handle (switch), which needs to be replaced (or cleaned, if you have enough paitence to disassemble it into tighny bits and bytes). Replacement is quite easy, take out the plastics around the steering wheel, disconnect two wiring looms, open 2 screws, and vois-la !). Another option is the hazard switch, but it's rare in the ZX (more common on PUG 205/106/306).

Check (on the connection to glass leads) with an inspection lamp, if you're getting 12V voltage. if you do, problem is the window leads. else, check fuses, relays etc. - do you have Haynes manual?

**********edit******** Just noticed the thread is over a year old, so probably the guy alrady replaced the car :blink: but anyways... **************** Hi, Here is a link with a very detailed explanation of the cooloing system in peugeot 306, which is identical to the ZX. As a first step, I would try to disconnect the Brown connector located on the thermostat flunge, which causes the system to function in "limp home" mode (i.e. both fans work in high spped mode, with no relation to the temp. of the coolant). If they work, I would first check the coolant level (do it when engine is cold, unless you would like to visit the burns department of the closest hospital :o ). also, make sure that the system is bleeded from air. If air is locked in the system, it will badly effect the functionality of the cooling system). If you have sufficient coolant etc. - next step is to check the relays located between the fans (care not to get your fingers caught, else you'll have to visit the hospital again :lol: ), ususaly the relay seats tend to melt or just loose contact. check the exact location in the attached link, where you got a drawing. If all is well, next step is connecting the fan motor directly to battery, and see if they work.

Assuming you're talking about the long drive shaft (passenger's side), you need to uinscrew the secure bolt located in the lower engine mount (As far as I recall, it's 11mm spanner to be used). push it a little in order to release the security lock, then you can pull out the drive shaft. Don't forget to put a pot or something below the gearbox, in order to catch the leaking oil when pulling the drive shaft, then pour it back to G/box when finish.

Hi, Just saw the mail, and was about to suggest same direction as you did, but I see you already solved it. :) Anyways, a small suggestion regarding the new rear beam: Since PSA/Citroen workers tend not to use an adequate amount of grease in the tube (for lubrication), it's a good idea to put some grease in for saving the "new" beam. If you don't want to disassemble the beam, you may buy yourself 2 greasing nipples (like they used to install in old cars) drill a small hole(s) in the tube at the right size, create a screw thread and screw the nipples in. Now you can lubricate the tube freely and make beam's life much longer.

Connecting directly to the switch will do you no good, since you only have a positive (+) voltage in there, where the switch is just a breaker on the way. You should connect one wire from the 3rd braking light to the car's chasis (-) somewhere (not the rear door, as it made of Fiberglass which is no good for that purpose. find a metal to connect to. The other wire should go to the center part of the bulb socket, where the (+) is connected and this will feed (voltage) the spolier braking light.

Forget it. you'll need to replace the whole harness, or dig very deep into the wiring. too much work. Better buy after market immobilizer (or give up on the whole idea. who the hell would like to steal a ZX ? :P ).

Is there a chance you can use the arm from the "new" (the one you bought from breaker) subframe with the old subframe (where the arm is bent)? BTW, replace your mechanic - it's 5 hours work at most with a lift and tools.

I'm not sure about it. is squeaking involved as well? Jack the car, and check if the subframe is a little loose. If so, then rowls is right, and it's the blocks (it's rubber, so it will not last for ever). Otherwise, problem is in the rear axle (the bearings and the arms) - usualy they don't put enough grease in the factory, so eventualy the bearings break and start "eating" the rear arms. Check this thread as well.

Everything is possible, if you're willing to spend time and money. You'll have to put a lot of money and work for such project. best way is to buy a wrecked car and transfer all parts (actually better option is to sell the car and buy an original TD). If you insist,however, engine blocks are basicaly the same, but head is different (compression ratio lower), exhaust system, of course - different, you have intercooler added, and lots more.

Hi, Try to get the VALEO headlights. they're the OEM for the ZX, and I assume you'll find them cheaper then buying parts with CIT stamp on them. As far as I know - both seats and electric wiring are identical. As for the aftermarket - well, it depends. It's more of personal taste issue - think you can even find "angel eyes" type, or rounded lights. only a matter of money.

Hi, This light is actualy not a "K" , but the known electric symbol for NPN type transistor : http://www.eng.cam.ac.uk/DesignOffice/mdp/electric_web/Semi/03072.png If you want to learn about it - you can read here: Transistors. It represents (in cars) the ECU (Engine Control Unit) which consists of electronic components. As explained to you before, when you turn the switch - light will come up for testing, and it should be switched off upon engine running. No light when engine running is very good, means you you no faults in the engine management system (i.e. fuel & electrical systems). BTW, every fault (light is on) is recorded in ECU's memory - so even if it's temporary, a technician can still read the problem code from memory and tell you what it was.

Hi, Congratulations (both for driving permit and car) :lol: . Radio connections : If you have the original manual, have a look there. You'll find the description for every wire in the loom. If you're not familiar with vehicle electric system, let someone who knows fix it, otherwise you're gonna make some shorts in the systam, which may cause problems, and a risk of fire ! If you don't have the manual, I have it in French, don't know how much help it is for you... try e-mule. As for the brake lights - most probably the switch located above the brake pedal. It's black square plastic stuck there. CHeck if it's not loose or broken, which will make the circuit be closed all the time, and the lights be on. Just lay on your back behind the pedals, and look for it above .

Did you check the colour of the spark plugs? If they're white (not light tan, white, check in the following link):Spark plugs guide , then it means you have lean mixture. Assuming no compression problems (as you wrote), and parts you stated already replaced, I would go for checking the fuel pressurein the system. If it's a single point injection, then pressure is ~ 1.5 bar. for multipoint - ~3 Bars. If it fails (make sure the engine is warm, where the problem appears), then main suspect should be fuel pump (especially for multipoint). Next one is the fuel pressure regulator.

Hi, Make sure that the cylinder head was renovated (polished/filled wherever needed), and that the garage use the exact torque settings (as in haynes, or manufacturer spec.). Head blots are TTY type, and if not properly tightened ( I think it's 120NM, slacken, then 60NM and 300 degrees, but please verify) - the head gasket is not squeezed as needed, and you'll have the described above leaks in no time, even if everything is renewed. Make sure the TTY bolts are still OK (google it, lot of descriptions), or replace them with new ones if needed.

Cehck the connecting rods between antiroll bar and front shock absorbers (can be seen in the attached photo) - the ball joints tend to get loose, which in turn causes unpleasent noise. http://grm.m.walla.co.il/briefcase/00f3/r/a/d/a/r/j/e/d/i/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/@/r/200503311606502326/200503311631025291/398_9881.JPG

Morning, The squeeky rear suspension is well know problem in PSA old cars, such as PUG 106,309,205, and CIT saxo,ZX, Xsara etc. The suspension configuration is trailing arms, where instead of springs you have torsion bars instead of springs. They are put in a tube and use the flexibility of the still rod to act as spring by twisting it. those rods are attached to the arms who, in turn, carry the wheel. Between the rod and the tube there are bearings (two per rod, total of 4), which are sppoused to be protected by large amount of grease. Point is, that usually Mr. Jean-Pier arrived to the factory at monday morning, after drinking few bottles of Merlot, or pinot noir, or whatever was under his hand - so, if you're lucky, he put a small smear of grease there (else he did not put anything at all :blink: ). Put any bearing without lubrication for a while, and it will die, sooner or later. Problem is that usualy this bearing starts ""eating" the arms, then you're fucked. replacement of the arms and bearings costs usualy more than replace the whole axle. Anyway, if you fill like messing around with it, see the following links explain how to dismantle the axle (it also refers to "how to play with the height of your rear part of the car", but it's the very same job, just take care of measuring the distance between center of the wheel and rear wing, as decribed. This is very important, else you'll end with very unstable, even dangerous for driving car. Check this: Lowering rear axle And here you have excellent guide, with photos (It's PUG 306, very same): 306 GTI-6 guide. IMHO, it would be much cheaper if you can find a complete axle from a wrecked car, and take it to the garage in order to replace it completly (don't forget to ask them to renew bearings and seals, and put LOT of grease in). Make sure you buy same configuration of the axle (I think your AURA has drum brakes. other models (such as CIT ZX VOLCANE, PUG306 XSI/S16/GTI6 and XSARA VTS) have rear disk brakes (and also thicker torsion bars, which will make the car rear suspension become stiffer and change the height of the car !) , so If you intend to change brakes, you'll have to replace the master brake pump, and hand brake cables (which, in turn, requires taking out the rear spare wheel cradle, exhaust and heat sheild - means big headacke) - not worth it for your car. If you have more questions, raise them, I'll try to answer. expect no cheap solution, unless you're lucky (probably not :( ), and you'll only need to change bearings and put some greasr in. A temporary solution (won't last for long, but will make the squeeking dissapear (not solve the problem, just delay the solution) is to install greasing nipples in the "tube" that holds the torsion bars, and fill it with grease. This will make the noise dissapear.