DaveWalling

Hi Dave, I am presuming that you have sorted out your problem, however if you are still trying to change the lock, then it is a simple operation. First open the door and locate a small rubber bung on the door edge, with this removed insert a thin bladed screwdriver, you also need the key in the lock at this point. Now gently push with the screwdriver, then turn the key a few degrees and gently pull. The lock barrel should now pull out with the key. Replacement is even easier it is just a case of pushing the barrel back in. Hope this has been of some use, if not to you then others who may be viewing this thread. Dave.

Hi Derek, welcome to the forum. The hose disappears down into the wheel arch where the washer pump is located. http://pdftown.com/Citroen-Xantia-Service-Manual.html This is a link to a pdf verion of the Haynes manual. Download Part 1, then wait 15 mins before downloading Part 2.. Once this is done use an unzippping program (ie Winzip). This will then create one pdf file which you can look at with acrobat. I am not sure, but I belive that the inner wheel arch liner needs to be removed to gain access. It does sound like your hose is perished and needs to be replaced. New hose can be obtained from Halfords for about £4. Hope this is of use to you. Dave

Hi Stefan, I think you may have sorted your problem out yourself! It certainly sounds like you have air in the system, you are correct in that when you raise and lower the suspension, or as Colin calls it "Citrobics", you are bleeding the system of air. As for the tank, I will let Colin explain that! Its not hard, just awkward getting the hoses at the top out. Cheers for now Dave.

Hi Stefan, Welcome to the forum, The guru known as "Colin Hunter" is your best bet on how to remove the LHM tank. No doubt Colin will reply when he gets the chance. As for the moaning sound that seems to be a foible of the suspension! My old Xantia used to do the same, with no adverse affects. As far as I am aware there is no need to lower the suspension when turning the engine off, just leave it at "Normal" I would check the level of the LHM fluid, the brass disc in the sight glass on top of the tank should be midway between the two lines. If it is above then invest in a turkey baster and use it to remove the excess fluid. Oh don`t forget to check the level with the suspension set to high and have the engine running! I know on mine when there was excessive fluid, the suspension felt stiff. Right thats enough from me, I just hope it is of some use to you. Somebody will probably come and post a different solution, but thats what we are here for is to help each other. Cheers Dave.

Hi, welcome to the forum. Is the keyfob is the 2 button sort? If it is, it is possible to remove the PCB from the fob and replace it with a working one.The PCB simply pulls out, and the new one pushes in. Once this is done ll that is left to be done is to reprogram it. Hope this is of some help to you.

Hi Willie, I don`t know about Colin, but as to a new alarm clock a resounding YES!! :D Oh, and a Talex speed camera detector! :blink:

Hi, The ticking you describe is quite normal, it is just the acummaltor sphere charging up. The only time to be concerned is if the ticking is rapid, if it is then the aforementioned sphere is cream crackred and needs replacing. Hope this helps. Dave

Hi Dave, Welcome to the forum, I am not sure but I would hazard a guess that your suspension ride height is down to the height ride adjuster. I would say that it could be seized. The best course of action is to get it over pit or on a lift if possible. Failing this jack it up and put it on axle stands. Then check out the aduster gear spraying it with WD40, then leave it for a while, ow do the "Citroenarobics" a few times and see if that makes any difference, of course the other thing is it could be broken. I belive that some of the parts are made of nylon, so it could be that one of these has broken. Hope this is of some help, Oh before I forget if you search back through some of the older posts you can find a link to download the Haynes manual.

Hi Flunkstar, Before you change the LHM fluid it could be worth spraying the UV joints on the steering column. I had problems with heavy steering and the problem turned out to be the joints on the steering column. That was after I had the hydraulic pump changed! Dave

Hi John, I would like to say that I know it shouldn`t make any difference whether the expansion tank is overfull, but from experience it does. Mine was overfilled after having some work done and the suspension was hard until I removed almost 2.5 litres of excess fluid. After that it is absolutely fine, it just doesn`t make sense.

In short yes! I removed almost 2.5 Litres of excess fluid!! You feel like you are getting nowhere, then all of a sudden the float will start to drop. When it does, you don`t have to remove much more. Once you have reached the correct level it is a good idea to perform the "Citrobics" ie lower and raise the suspension a few times, then check the level again. If all is OK then replace the cap and enjoy the proper suspension!! If not adust the level accordingly, I would also check it again after a couple of weeks of normal use. Dave

Hi David, According to Mr Haynes the idle speed (at least for older models is 850rpm =/- 50, however it is controlled by the ECU. I am sure there is a thread somewhere though on the forum about setting the rpm. I will have a search through and report back if I find anything.

Regarding the hard ride/overfull expansion tank scenario, I don`t know myself why! I found it on the forum, and as the ride was hard on my Xantia, even after I had the sphere changed,I decided to give it a go. Hey presto, soft ride again after I had removed the excess fluid. :(

When starting don`t be tempted to try and start it once the glow plug light has gone off, leave it for another 10 seconds! This is because the plugs have not switched off, they stay on for 10 secs after the light has gone off. If it is still difficult to start then I would suspect the glow plugs need changing.

Hi David, Welcome to the forum, yes your assumption is correct. It does sound like your LHM tank is overfull!! Best way to get it down is to buy one of those Turkey basters and use that to drain the fluid a bit at a time. It is a bit messy, but it gets the job done. I had to to do mine about a month ago and ended up taking nearly 2.5 litres out!! You may find that once the fluid is at the correct level that the suspension could become softer. Get the fluid to the correct level before changing the spheres as you may get a few more miles out of them.

Evening all, There is one other option for the alarm and that is to silence it, by turning the siren off under the bonnet. Lift the bonnet, look at the nearside back of the engine bay and you will find a small flap. Lift this and you will see a switch. Insert your key and turn, thiswill only silence the alarm, it will not stop the lights from flashing. Hope this helps.

Hi Stuart, If you go to the following website you can enter your VIN number and it will tell you exactly which clutch you need. http://service.citroen.com Once registered click on Xantia, then "Replacement parts documentation" under the free services banner, then click on the engine icon then enter your VIN number, this is located in the engine bay, drivers side adjacent to the washer fill point. Hope this helps. Dave

Sorry for the delay in replying, On mine the LED flashes until the ignition is turned on and then it goes out. The alarm should be being activated even if you lock the door with the key! Oh, and you are not a pest! The reason we are here is to help one another, so don`t feel bad about asking for help. I am wondering if when you pulled the fuse that you may have damaged something? Might be worth disconnecting the battery, leave it for 5 mins then reconnect it and try again, obviously you will need to reset the alarm as described before, and re-enter the radio code if you have managed to get it. Apart from that I am stumped I am afraid. :rolleyes:

You got it one! :angry: Thats it, as I said before just press it before ten seconds after turning the ignition on, however as you seem to have sorted it I would leave it alone!!

Hi Hibobs, Welcome to the forum, the problem you describe is the alarm going off. The alarm itself has been silenced, there is a switch in the engine bay. To stop this from occurring when you turn on the ignition, look for a button on the dash on the right hand side of the steering wheel. It should be the left most button of the three, turn on the ignition, then within ten seconds press and hold this button until the lights flash, you should now find that they no longer flash when you open the doors etc. What has happened is that when you have checked the fuses, you have cut the power to the alarm, in doing so you have reset it, the same thing happens if you disconnect the battery, so be warned. If you have the owners manual (located same side as the button, under the dash) full details are in that. As for the radio code, I think that requires a trip to your local Citroen dealer, although I will look through some of the earlier posts. Oh by the way thank your lucky stars that the alarm is silenced, if you do want to turn it back on as I previously mentioned the switch is in the engine bay, nearside of the bay you will find a small flap at the rear, underneath there is a lock. Simply insert your ignition key and turn!! Hope this helps. :P Have had a look and found the following reply to a previous post, regards to Colin Hunter. "If you know the dealer that originally supplied the car, they may still have the details on record. Any dealer shuold be able to find out the code from Citroen UK AT A PRICE. However all is not lost. Have a look at this ebay page and you'll find a decoding service for £15. Cheers and happy festives http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...le=Xantia+radio " If you do need to remove the radio, I have included a link to download the Haynes manual, download part 1, wait 10-15 mis then download part 2, unzip both parts and you have the full Haynes manual. http://pdftown.com/Citroen-Xantia-Service-Manual.html

Hi Shaun, Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but it sounds like the pressure regulator is shot. There are only 3 bolts holding it on, 1 on the gearbox, and 2 on the front. However it is the lower one on the front that is the problem as it doubles as a stud for the pipework brackets! As I said previously th bracketsare the worst part of the job. Full details are in the Haynes manual

Hi Shaun, The accumulator sphere is relativly easy to change, and the Haynes manual gives you a step by step guide. It`s purpose is to act as a backup for the hydraulic system in case something ie, the hydraulic pump, fails. The probs could all be related as they are all run off the one hydraulic system. Hope this sorts you out. If it is any use, my wife is exactly the same!!! Phantom noises, etc!! :huh: Oh, where is it actually leaking from? Is it the joint between the sphere and pressure regulator (the bit the sphere screws onto). If so it looks like the seal has gone, if it appears to be behind the regulator then that is the part you should change, I have just had the same problem. Thought it was the sphere, turned out to be the regulator. Good news is they are cheap from a scrapper, reasonably easy to fit. Hardest part is disconnecting all the brackets for the pipework!!!

If the accumulator sphere is designed to tick, approx every 15secs. If it is ticking any faster, then it is cream crackered and needs replacing.

Hi Tony, Found the following in an old post, looks like it may be of some help. Dave First off: - make sure the battery is fully charged - note the state of the led illumination on the keypad...........ignition off and locked - red - ignition on LED red. If red and green and bleeping at you the code you have entered is incorrect - remove keys and lock car , leave for over half hour befor reattempting starting. Dependent on the age of the vehicle the 'factory' code would have been 0001 or more likely 1111. if the codes you have been given and are using are different it is unlikely that the fctory codes are going to be of any assistance to you. With regard to what happens if you dont have a code.......unfortunately it may mean the purchase of computers as there is little can be done to overide them (they wouldnt be imobilzers otherwise). You dont mention if its a petrol or a diesel.......if its a diesel and you know a 'charitable' mechanic he may be able to remove the imobilizer on the rear of the pump and rig it up with a standard cut off valve....an alternative might be to find an 'old citroen dealer' that still has an 'ELIT' diagnostic machine. The ELIT machine plugs into the diesel pump module and allows the code you have to be entered bypassing the rest of the vehicle electrics......assuming you have the right code it willallow them to start the car.....it may even allow them to make a diagnosis. If its petrol its a new ecu, although you could try the connector behind the o/s headlamp that passes throught the inner wing.....they dont like water in them.

Hi Tony, I have just been looking in the Haynes manual, and I am afraid it does not look like good news. There seems to be no mention of both lights being lit, just one or the other. If the wrong code has been entered then the ECU must be replaced. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I would say that is the possible remedy, if you know a Citroen specialist I would have a chat with them as they may have a workaround. I wonder if you have the owners handbook that came with the car when new? There may be a possible solution in that. I will have a look in mine later and report back if I find anything. Dave.