mechcanico lee

Hello , could the power steering pump be the fault and if the heavy 12 volts power supply to the power steering and suspension pump be a shared supply ,and when the ps pump goes faulty it is dragging the supply down on the suspension pump down so much the suspension goes into a limp mode and this is why the suspension goes hard / harsh . It could also be that the ps pump fault drags the can network down for suspension and power steering together, I would of thought that either of the suspension or power steering ecms would be able to flag codes for these issues but you never know how the design engineers write the software . Could do with looking at a wiring diagram to see what's shared and on the same network.

Just confirming what you are saying ...... When the engine is at idle the swirl is over one way , when you Rev car over 2000 rpm the swirl moves the other way ?

Un plugging the air mass plug isnt definative in knowing if its duff ......it just puts a default value in the ecm allowing the car to be driven in a limp value , if the new air mass didnt improve your fault you can presume it wasnt that what was your fault . If you say there is always vac on the pipe it could be a duff solenoid or the solenoid is constantly switched or the vac pipes are mixed up somehow . If the egr has been held constantly open for a long time it could be coked up with the black death , take it off and throughly clean it and make sure the valve is seating properly. When you said it goes better since removing the vac pipe did you plug the end of the pipe also , if the solenoid is duff you will lose vaccum in the other circuits e.g manifold butterfly and turbo wastegate control .

Bad diagnosis there from the garage just because theres a fault code for the air mass doesnt mean its at fault . Egr fault codes on non potentiometer type egr valves use the difference in the mass air flow when the egr is open or closed to work out if the egr is working for instance .......... engine at idle mass air flow reading egr closed could be 100 kg/h open egr valve it can roughly half reading to bout 50 kg/h . The diagnosic process of the ecm knows that there should be a change in air mass reading when egr is open or closed in your case if the egr valve is permanently open it could see this as an air mass fault and flag a fault code for air mass. There should be vaccum there at the pipe at idle but normally after a few mins the vac goes off , try holding the revs up quite high see if the vavc is there then (egr tends to work at light throttle loads and goes off at bigger throttle openings ) If the vac is always there you could have a solenoid fault (trace the vac tube back it will go to the solenoid ) its worth trying leaving the pipe plugged and see if you get the man. light coming up ,engines better without it anyhow

Has the auxillary belt been set up properly with the eccentric idler ? if the belt is still flapping somewhat it will wear out your new crank pulley faster , no one way clutch type pulleys wont fit in normal alternator shafts . I found that if the aternator is the fixed type pulley the engine normally has the dual mass type crank pulley (to absorb the vibrations that the alt. pulley would deal with ) .

Not really sure with the citroens but on peugeots 407,607 and others tyre preesure monitoring has to be disabled in 3 parameters to stop all messages flagging on dash 1 tyre pressure monitoring itself 2 bsi configuration 3 dash panel configuration Hope this helps someone....i would be pretty sure the citroens will be similar as they share systems as we all know

Better without it,mixing hot gases into a cooled inlet manifold makes "the black death " if its doesnt flag the man light leave it blanked,engine oil will say cleaner and not deteriorate as soon .

Leave it blanked , depends what software level or injection system is fitted that denotes if it will flag man. light on or just be logged in ecm as a stored code . How have you blanked it ?? with a plate or ball bearing in vac pipe ?

The turbo pipe will expand when it goes under boost conditions i dont think this is your issue , i would say if the cam timing is out you would get cam/crank synchronisation codes .....have you got any fault codes ?? You need to maake sure your egr valve is operating properly and it is seating this can affect fuel mpg quite alot, also sometimes the vaccum solenoid can pull the egr open when it shouldnt, on the 2.2 hdi they have swirl flaps , make sure the actuator rod hasent broke off where it fastens to the butterflys on the manifold . I have a peugeot 607 2.2 hdi 2003 ,i have just got a software package to do dpf deletion and power up grades , i have removed dpf , carried out egr deletion (ball bearing in vac pipe ) and power up grade to 165 bhp ....the car has never been so good my average mpg as gone up to 36mpg from 29 mpg and on the motorway it is doing 47 mpg at steady 75mph up from 41mpg and it pulls like a good un . You say you have had it de fapped ....so you had the software file re written aswell ?? does your car black smoke alot ? does it pull well or is it under powered ? both can be signs of egr leak .

Front crankshaft pulley (one with the belt on ) sometimes can chatter ,they are in 2 parts with vulcanised rubber , or alternator one way clutch seized .....they can make the belt flap about alot which makes a chatter sort of noise if you bring revs up a touch it stops , not saying this your fault just thoughts on the symptoms .

What Coastline said , the 1.6 are just bad no matter whats done to them they just keep going wrong , one of the issues it the turbo has a very small housing and it spins to fast a just has to work to hard , also they have 60 percent EGR control .....the exhaust gases kill the oil but even with regular changes with good quality oil it will still fail .

What woody says and ....... big lag before picking up could be stuck open egr valve , can you hear any hissing ? intercoolers prone for leaking at the bottom of the core , does it black smoke alot when you put your foot down ?

"Dave, when people ask me why I drive a crap french car" I have been a car mech for 22 years now , i work on every model in all areas servicing , clutches ,engine work , diagnosis the french stuff have there faults like every other but recently some of the "top marques" stuff have gone down hill big time...... Mercs and Audi, VWs the build quality has gone down hill badly , i work on Range Rovers and Bentleys ...continentals and Spurs and the like , they go wrong all the time and its not £100 or £200 fixes...... its more like £1500 or £2000 repairs !!! and these are cars that costs £60grand and upwards . The french stuff are not so bad for the money you pay , and its like what was already said loads of the other manufactures are using the psa diesel motor ............ just keep away from that 1.6 hdi oooooooo its a bad un , black death engine EGR control to the hilt !!

Hello is it in these pockets next to where the injectors sit in http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt266/mechcanicolee/KGrHqRHJBE8e4F0YS4BPLFEEKy60_12.jpg If yes....... it can be from the rocker box but more likely from the inlet manifold butterfly housing ,common on lots of the peugeot /citroen range . The butterfly housing sits over the top of them pockets were the oil has gathered , it has a spindle through it and oil residue that comes through the intercooler system weeps out and fills them pockets with oil . The intercooler system does have oil residue in there even on a fresh engine with low miles, the oil mist that is drawn out of the engine via the breather system and is drawn back into the engine into the turbo inlet so there is always oil residue in there .Breather systems used to breathe straight out to atmosphere years ago but emmission laws stopped all that If it get excessive that can be signs of a worn engine or turbo shaft play or oil seeping past the turbo shaft seals. Have seen oil leaks from the breather pipe that fits onto the rocker cover also ,but that normally leaks down the back of the engine block . I had this on my girlfreinds car, i replaced the housing ,its a dealer part bout £40 from memory and easy to replace

Bit of a guess this...... but could it have lost its permanent 12v supply ? i you preset some stations are they being lost when you switch the car off .

Trailing arm bearings possibly.....have you got any wear on inside edge of tyres ?

You can diagnose it if its hydraulic buckets ................ you need a engine vaccum guage , find a take off point on the inlet manifold (theres normally somewhere u Tpeice into) When you start up good vaccum on a good engine will be bout 20/21 inches of mercury ,if you let it run keep watching the guage when it starts to run rough the vaccum will drop and you get a pulsing effect on the guage, the pulsing is the compression being let into the inlet manifold because the valves are being held open by the buckets jacking out .

Get out of that car as soon as you can ,the faults will go on and on .

Sorry Mikey Looks like you have been down that way then with flushes and oil grades and so on , it a bit of a pisser though that you have to take it all apart to fit the modified buckets coz its still a low mileage car as mileage goes nowadays , if you think about it worked ok when it was new , so its just as the mileage gets higher that this fault occurs. We have another additive at work for hydraulic followers , its for when they get noisy like the clack, clack sound you get from them , this gets rid of laquer build up also , this is more a treatment which goes in the oil ....it can take up to 300 miles to work fully ,its made by Wynns . Just trying to try all other methods before you have to open it up and spend the dosh on the buckets and other related parts to see the job out.

Good advise there from Mr. Coastline , we have bought some of these cars with the 1.6hdi engine..... focus, pug 407s , citroen c5s from auctions , even ones with full history are knacked ....turbos failed ,dpfs full of oil and clogged, sumps with the " black death " oil sludge and all the rest . There not very good and you will have trouble, 2.0L alot better :)

Hello Mikey i have seen this fault a few times on peugeots 206cc and 307s with the 2.0l 16 valve engine (think the eng code nfx but not sure )is this the same engine as the c5 petrols ?? Like the other post says they have modified hydraulic buckets , basically as the mileage of the engine gets higher laquer builds up in the hydraulics and they carnt releive the oil fast enough from cold when the oil is thick and less viscous , this results in the valves being jacked open and it makes the car run really rough and sometimes stall (the fault may not be there through summer months ) You can go down the route of changing the hydraulics for the modified ones , quite expensive and fair strip down or ......... use a flush in the oil first , take for a run to get it flushed around properly, drain oil ,change filter and use a 0w 30 grade oil , in the ones i have done this as worked quite well with only reports of slight roughness on the coldest days ....like under -3 degrees and the likes, the 0w grade just helps with the cold start period . Not saying this is your fault but your symptoms sound familiar to this , you say it was serviced recently ...do you know what grade of oil was used? It could be what Paul says throttle body clean and re learn new adaptations ,either way all these things want cost much money to have a go at . Lee

I carnt picture it in my head but where ever is easiest to get at it ,aslong as the gases carnt get into the manifold it doesnt matter if its blanked on the exhaust manifold side or inlet . What i did with my womans c5 2.0 L hdi was make sure the egr valve had a good clunk sound first, then i put a 3mm ball bearing in the vac pipe ,really easy .........and if you get any managment issues ,man light flagging for egr fault codes you can just take it back out real easy. What this is about is step by step diagnosis....rule out egr and if its still flat move to other areas e.g air flow meter, turbo wastegate, fuel rail pressure generation and so on , some of it though you can only dignose with scan tools or substituation from a known good vehicle . The amount of times we get cars in at work where the owners have just wasted money on this that and the other trying to fix a running fault that in most cases was an easy fix,and made 1000 times worse by owners messing about with things that wasnt at fault in the first place, knowledge is power......talkin bout knowledge a dont suppose you know about laptops coz mines going real slow????? wish i had the knowledge to sort it ?? note to self stay off porn sites that feck my computer up :blink:

Stu Are you saying if you put a peice of vac pipe on the egr you carnt pull a vaccum ? if so this means the egr diaphram is punctured , if so, yes maybe best to blank off with some metal plate , i have seen them blanked off with shaped plates made out of biscuit tins but proper 1.5 /2.0mm guage plate better. If the egr diaphram is punctured the vac pipe that goes to the egr needs to be blanked off because this will allow vaccum to be lost in the whole of the vaccum circuit , which can effect turbo wastegate control as this relys on vaccum to pull the wastegate into position . Bobtuck If you carnt hear the thunk as you realease the vaccum it normally means either the egr valve is sticking or there is alot of carbon and cack stuck on the seat , remove and clean out or blank off with metal plate , my 2003 2.2 hdi 607 is blanked and my bitches 2001 c5 is blanked off with no issues , there is fault codes stored in the managment but it doesnt flag the dash managment light on so no worries ,which is good because egr is the black death for engines . I have took inlet manifold off some of the vauxhalls and a 2 inch diameter port is gunked up to the thickness of a pencil, extended oil change intervals and folk not using correct grade oils with no additive packs are another for black death but thats another story . If you drop the top engine mount off on drivers side with a stand under the sump you can pull engine forward so it gives you more working room at the back .

Hello Stu just dissconnecting the plug isnt conclusive , if the solenoid is leaking vac through it ,it will still leak vaccum through to the egr , try what i said about sucking on the pipe thats on the egr and listen for clunk. Theres other solenoids up there did you dissconnect the correct one ?all the other solenoids have 2 pipes also, whats important here is that we need to know when you test drive it is that the egr is shut otherwise boost will be lost through the egr valve . If you follow the instructions i gave you in the other post we can get to the bottom of it .

Was the egr the only code stored ? if it saying blocked it could be that the vaccum supply to it isnt there. You can test it ......find a piece of vac pipe and put it on the egrs little spout and suck on it and realease , you should hear it clunk down on the seat. If you can hear a positive clunk the egr is working . Next ..start the engine up egr will operate at this point to reduce emmissions , the vac pipe that goes to the egr should have vaccum on it ,you should be able to feel it with your finger or put your tongue on it..... ( CAUTION !!dont fall in the engine bay and get your knob caught in the drive belt this will hurt severely) , if not you need to trace back to the solenoid that controls it , the egr control solenoid is on the passenger side bulkhead behind a plastic cover if my memory is correct , it will have a vaccum feed to it and the other pipe is the one that goes to the egr valve. There is a few other solenoids there aswell , turbo wastegate, throttle inlet butterfly dont think the 2.0L has swirl flap ??these have a common vac supply which comes from the brakes vac pump, check all these vac pipes as they split and you will lose vaccum in all associated vac controlled items . A loss of vaccum could be your original fault with you saying its flat on the road , if the turbo wastegate doesnt get proper vac it wont reach desired boost levels ,if you can do some of these tasks we can move on to other areas . Trying to chip a car that isnt running correct in the first place just wont work , when it is running as it should be you probably wont need for it to be chipped. If all this is a bit to much take it to good tech who knows what hes on about and not the "stick a k+n init, chip it up t max , stick some sunbeds under it, giz it another 500 bhp at rear wheels" squad .......like to see them get any power at the back wheels on a c5 !! Stu hope you appreciate this as i type with one finger.......feckin blister now arrrggg feck