UVG

No Paul it sailed through its last test everything looked fine i had just run out of ideas so i thought just renew everything. cars done nearly 170K mls so figured it wouldn't hurt and it seems to have solved that problem just as a side note it also appears to have solved the Yo-Yoing front suspension the front end started hunting up and down when i was stopped last year i assumed height sensor so replaced it but it made no difference as it only did it when i was stationary i just lived with it but since i changed all the bushes its never done it again...i suppose its all connected :)

all good advice but for what they cost if i can confirm their size i would rather have some ends in the tool box to be honest i dont have a brake spanner i have always managed with the little mole grips mainly because once they are out i replace them :D and then cover them in copper slip but i suspect these ones have been in since it was built so would rather renew if i can

nice idea...but i'm expecting to have get them out with a pair of mole grips after i have rounded them off :wacko: also when my car is off the road i'm stranded so i would rather have all the bits on site so i can make new ones but thanks for the thought :D

Hi Guys just a quick question... i'm running a C5 Estate ('05) i'm trying to confirm the Brake pipe diameter, ends and flare for the pipes that run from front to back i got an advisory on them at the last MOT and i would like to get them sorted before the next one the Citroen parts directory on line give most of the pipe diameters and lengths but not theses two i have had to replace the suspension pipe from front to back it was an absolute pig of a job...but most of it was ok it was only rusted in a couple of placed near the rear subframe i'm hoping the brake pipes will be the same. i'm planning to cut them under the cabin put a new flare on them and then splice in a new length back to the back i think the pipe diameter is 3/16" (or 4.7mm) i'm pretty sure the flare is the bubble type but i dont know what the threat type is on the ends can anyone confirm the details? i dont want to spend money on the wrong size flare tool or the wrong size pipe thanks for any info Cheers UVG

So Update at last... the third tyre centre that i took it to was Kwik Fit but they only had a "normal" tracking rig after the suggestions to get the full geometry checked i called a different Kwik Fit who had one of these machines they advised that the check was free. costs were only incurred if changes had to be made...seemed reasonable when they checked the tracking was quite literally off the scale they corrected the tracking and replaced two back tyres (which definitely needed doing) and revealed me of £150 (which i thought was reasonable for the work done and tyres) and now it steers like it should do. the only thing i can think off is that the bushes were so worn that standing still everything checked out fine but under load everything was out of line. once i replaced the bushes everything was held out of line even standing still and once this was corrected it all lines up and works as it should the thrust line check also shows my OSR wheel was running just a little bit out of alignment Kwik Fits Technician said it was too small to worry about and there was no way to adjust it anyway guess what... four month later and i have just replaced the swinging arm bearings after i started getting that clacking sound that signals they are on the way out so its taken a while (nearly 2yrs) to get everything right and i will never use the original tyre centre again thanks guys for your suggestions i hope my final results helps someone in the future UVG

no it handled fine it was even handled ok after i had replaced the track rod ends this only started once i had the tracking done and new tyres fitted ... now the idea that its actually the tyres has occurred but doesnt really seem likely

Hi guys thanks for the info... Paul all that measuring will take a bit of time (and weather) but i'll have a look coastline i thought that too but i disconnected one of the track ends and there was no play of any kind...i'm hoping that its not the rack i have wondered if its the rear wheel steering that is out of position and throwing off the geometry cheers UVG

Can anyone offer any suggestions on what is happening with my car. It seems to want to drive in circles and is wearing the shoulders of my tyres at a frightening rate So quick history... I changed both the track rod ends and did the usual and went to get the tracking checked at a local tyre centre They drove it down the road and said “its fine mate doesn’t need doing†3mths later both of my new front tyres are showing wires on the inside edges :( Took it to a different tyre centre got it tracked and two new tyres Ever since it wants to drive in circles... once the steering wheel has passed about halfway to full lock it stops trying to straighten out and tries to tighten up to full lock If I let go of the wheel it will drive round in circles going all the way to full lock as quick as possible and you can hear the tyres scrubbing I took it back and they checked the tracking saying it was fine. Some months later and the outside edges of my tyres are really starting to wear. I’ve taken it to a third tyre centre who have confirmed that the tracking is correct (about -1mm toe out which from what i can find on the forum appears to be correct) I have now replaced the wish bone bushes and the ball joints and if anything its worse!! I’m stuck I don’t know what causing this so I’m open to suggestions Anyone had something similar? In short HELP! Thanks for any suggestions UVG

hi Mickrochip sorry I cannot offer any advice but I am in the market for one as well. if we could get a good recommendation I'd be interested too maybe we could get a few of us together and get a discount for quantity just an idea but we need someone who can recommend a good supplier Cheers UVG

Hi All I’m running a 2005 1.6hd1 VTR C5 with the particle filter in the exhaust system can anyone tell me when it does its regeneration will I know? does anything come up on the screen on the dash I have had the car two years and I’m not aware of it ever happening I’m having trouble intermittently when the car is cold of it coughing and spluttering to a halt. it feels like there isn’t enough fuel getting through but having changed EGR and MAF and checked other bits and pieces I’m wondering if it’s more a case of exhaust gases not getting out fast enough but once it’s warm any sludge in the filter softens up and let the "air" flow then stiffens up as it cools it’s just a thought but it has left me wondering if the car will tell me when it’s regenerating Cheers for any help UVG

hi guys thanks for the suggestions I posted the same problem on the French car forum and got some interesting suggestions I have gone off the idea of using the PTFE I have ordered the Loctite 510 I think I'll just do as Citroen suggest the cars 10yrs old and its lasted till now if I do it again and it lasts another 10 I cannot really complain well I could but no one would listen :D

Hi Guys I’m looking for a second opinion...or a third or fourth opinion I am replacing the rear calliper on my C5 (as I have nice wedge shaped brake pads) I’ve read the different views on a couple of forums about the corrosion created by the different metals and the instructions in the Haynes Manual to use a Loctite sealant between the calliper and the swinging arm I read that some people have used a thick plastic to keep the two metals apart and I thought that sounded like a good idea but the Haynes Manual says the sealant has to be able to cope with 2000C that’s a bit toastie for a bit of polythene So I bought a sheet of 0.8mm PTFE because I know its tough stuff its hard wearing and has a melting point in excess of 2000C So that’s the background here’s my problem and the bit I need some opinions on: The calliper stops the car because it cannot move and it grabs hold of the disc which is going round at an alarming rate. The shear forces must be quite large so the calliper needs to be securely fastened to the swinging arm So what does the holding? Is it just the shear strength of the bolts or does the friction (that is created by the tension in the bolts) between the calliper and the swinging arm play a major role because I’m about to put one of the slipperiest substance known to man in between them So I still think the layer of PTFE will do a good job of reducing the corrosion but that’s not a lot of use if I rip the callipers off the swinging arms So your opinions please.... Cheers UVG

finally solved the radio issue :) the volume button was sticking down the plastic button has like a tube inside that fits on the switch spindle this was split so when you press the button it got stuck on the shoulders of the switch and kept the button permanently pressed in I cut 2mm off the bottom of the button used a Dremel to shorten the tube inside and then glued it back on the switch. works fine no more radio blasting at 6 in the morning when I unlock the car UVG

I did promise to come back with feed back and I have just never got round to it. (hangs his head in shame) The ends are something unusual and the pipes supplied were actually genuine citroen parts I found changing them to be very easy compared to the hydraulic pipe I have changed on previous Citroëns. The spanner size on this style of pipe is bigger than the usual citroen joint so less chance of rounding of the flats. the brake pipes were just "ordinary" ends that you might find on any car and were nothing special. the whole job two brake pipes and two hydraulic pipes (I know they are all hydraulic pipes but you know what I mean) changed and system bled took less than 2 hours I didn't change the LDS I just didn't really have the time its something I must get round to.... UVG

Mine is the one without the sphere I got this website from the French Car Forum http://www.eurocarcare.net they sell the pipes the one I need is around £11. unfortunately they don't make them but they can supply them. I've ordered both sides and the brake pipes I need Mick the guy I spoke to was very helpful I'll let you know the results once I get them

Hi Paul its the one that comes out of the rear suspension just below the sphere (drivers side rear) and goes to a junction on the real axel its not very long about 12" to 18" ish I hope you're right about coastline cos he's just up the road from me :) I couldn't believe it when Pleiades said they were different Citroen have been using the same fittings since Adam was a lad

Hi all C5s just failed its MOT :( one hydraulic pipe and both rear brake pipes too rusty for their own good So I call Pleiades (as you do!) but they say the hydraulic pipes use a different end to the ones I'm used to (CX, BX, XM etc) and...they don't do them....oh! Bugga! so does anyone know where I can get these "new" type of pipes made up because I certainly don't want to pay Citroen prices and will I be able to get the brake pipes made up as the C5 has a "normal" brake system wish I'd kept the XM! at least I knew where to get pipes for that (because I'd replaced most of them :D) any one got any experience cheers UVG

it looks like an original do you mean its a replacement from another c5? I do leave a CD in it its not stuck I just leave it in for when theres nowt good on the radio ... or to annoy the kids :D

Hi Guys some off you may remember I ordered a hand book from my dealer back in July still waiting!! had hoped it would give me the answer to a little niggle. the radio turns on as soon as I unlock the car which is a pain if I just want to get something out of the boot! the other day I was sitting in the car waiting for my daughter, ignition off I pressed the horn and the radio came on! can anybody please tell me how to arrange for the radio to only work when the ignition is on cheers UVG

OK People I bottled it I didn't do the timing belt this weekend decided to leave it till after my hols I'll come back with anything interesting once I get round to it on a different note anyone recommend best cost for a MAF sensor I think mines U.S. as the hesitation appears to have gone away since I unplugged it UVG

Thanks for the heads up Paul I'll make sure I tighten it up before I rotate the engine. I'll come back and leave a review of how good bad the job is but might have to leave it until after hols UVG

quick update I've taken the plunge and ordered a timing belt kit weather permitting and if it arrives on time I'm going to have a go at the weekend. I'll come back with feed back after the job is done but if anyone wants to give me any advise before I start it will be greatly received car has been running nice since I had the injector done but I do still get this hesitation at around 2000 rpm I have read that this was an issue and that Citroën did release a remap for the ECU does anyone have any more info on this or how I can find out if mine has been done. I've got myself a Galletto 1260 lead off eBay and I've managed to find some lexia 3 software does anyone know if the lexia software will work with the lead or do I need a special lexia lead still trying to find a copy of ECUsafe considering how many websites mention this software it appears to be awfully difficult to find UVG

I'm still playing with the idea of doing it my self. I've done them before on BXs but had a bad experience with a bad head recon and a timing belt which wrote the top of the engine off! it would be cheaper to do it myself I just cannot be bothered. I need to speak to the specialist and see what they would include for that price. if it includes the pulleys and the tensioners then it might be worth it. not sure what you mean by OAT based additives? the depollution fault has cleared again my neighbours code reader gives me the codes and I can check them against the code list on here and else where but having read them I still don't know how to relate that to the car and where to look for the issue. UVG

been to the dealer again to day they aren't the best and there parts guy come across as "cannot be bothered" any way when I told him he could do them separately he got of his arse and looked on his computer low and behold they are available almost £80 each. just what plant do the dealers live on?

I'm not even sure that what I need is ECUsafe because everything I can find on the net suggests that ECUsafe is protection software to protect your own ECU programs at least that's the way I read it but I'm new to these computer controlled cars :rolleyes: car is running well after yesterdays surgery but on my way to work this morning ..Beep... De Pollution fault... but the car still drives ok so to hell with it for now! once I find some software that will read faults and give me live data etc i'll look a bit deeper into the problem. the next important job at the mo is getting the timing belt replaced. cannot decide weather to do it myself or let the guys who did the injector do it. they are quoting about £200 including new water pump. so is it worth getting dirty but if I do it myself I start to learn the new car. :huh: decisions, decisions..... I feel the toss of a coin coming on :D